I have a Mitsubishi WD-73C11 which is the same as the WD-73640. It has full CMS system. I'm using and i1 (Eeyone LT / Eyeone Display 2 meter) and HCFR to do my calibraiton. My grey scale, color temperature and xy coordinates of primaries and secondaries are very accurate however my Y value and saturation can use some help.
I know the 100% white should have a Y of 100% but when I adjust the contrast to achieve this its too dim for my liking and the ftL is around 29. So I compromised by increasing the contrast to get a Y to 113 and the ftL to 33.
1. So my first question is: Is this a good Y / ftL compromise or is it more important to get my Y to 100 no matter what? I have a feeling my TV has some circuitry to limit above white output if that matters. When I look at blinking white clipping test patterns on AVS when I turn up the contrast to high I don't see above white, but the below white ones start getting a pinkish tint.
2. Or can I go for a 40 ftL, notate the 100% white Y value and then just adjust my primaries and secondaries based off rec 709 % of the white Y that they should be. I mean I'm basically just trying to get the following percentages for Y:R 21.26%, G 71.52% B 72.2%, Y 92.78%, C 78.74%, M 28.48%, right?
3. Also is, is the Y value the same as as as the ftL light output? Or are they just highly correlated? I ask this because I personally prefer a brighter / more saturated pictured so I'd prefer to have my ftL closer to 40 than 30. But despite what I do to the color control and the levels in the CMS if I push my contrast up to get closer to a 40 ftL my Y values always shoot up above the REC 709 spec. I can adjust down the intensity of color or the RGB's in the CMS down to get the Y lower but this also lowers the ftL independent of where I leave contrast.
I've attached my HCFR file as well as screen shots. I think with my controls I should be able to get my TV dead on the money across the board. If anyone can answer my questions and give me any pointers based on my calibration results I would be extremely grateful. If I'm missing something or not understanding things correctly please let me know. Thanks in advance.




I know the 100% white should have a Y of 100% but when I adjust the contrast to achieve this its too dim for my liking and the ftL is around 29. So I compromised by increasing the contrast to get a Y to 113 and the ftL to 33.
1. So my first question is: Is this a good Y / ftL compromise or is it more important to get my Y to 100 no matter what? I have a feeling my TV has some circuitry to limit above white output if that matters. When I look at blinking white clipping test patterns on AVS when I turn up the contrast to high I don't see above white, but the below white ones start getting a pinkish tint.
2. Or can I go for a 40 ftL, notate the 100% white Y value and then just adjust my primaries and secondaries based off rec 709 % of the white Y that they should be. I mean I'm basically just trying to get the following percentages for Y:R 21.26%, G 71.52% B 72.2%, Y 92.78%, C 78.74%, M 28.48%, right?
3. Also is, is the Y value the same as as as the ftL light output? Or are they just highly correlated? I ask this because I personally prefer a brighter / more saturated pictured so I'd prefer to have my ftL closer to 40 than 30. But despite what I do to the color control and the levels in the CMS if I push my contrast up to get closer to a 40 ftL my Y values always shoot up above the REC 709 spec. I can adjust down the intensity of color or the RGB's in the CMS down to get the Y lower but this also lowers the ftL independent of where I leave contrast.
I've attached my HCFR file as well as screen shots. I think with my controls I should be able to get my TV dead on the money across the board. If anyone can answer my questions and give me any pointers based on my calibration results I would be extremely grateful. If I'm missing something or not understanding things correctly please let me know. Thanks in advance.
AfterCalibration0429.zip 4.728515625k . file


















