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DIY Dayton 15" HF Sealed

post #1 of 82
Thread Starter 
Hello I have never built my own subwoofer before and was looking at building my own. After a little bit of research I have a couple ideas that I had in mind.

Since this would be my first build I was thinking of building a sealed sub because of its simplicity and I don't have a lot of woodworking experience. I saw a guide on how to build a sealed enclosure for a 15" driver from this website. It is approximately a 100L enclosure.
http://www.danmarx.org/audioinnovation/tc3000.html

I really can't go too much larger than this because of space requirements the only thing would be is that I could make it a little taller. I would also like to keep it at 1 sheet of MDF because I also don't want it to weigh a ton.

The driver I was considering buying was the Dayton Audio RSS390HF-4 15" Reference HF Subwoofer.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=295-468

And the amp I was considering was either the Bash 300W
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=300-750
or the Bash 500W.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=300-752

I would prefer to go with the 300W since it is cheaper but if I would need the 500W I could get it. Also if there are better options than the bash amp for around the same price I'm all for it.

I was wondering if these were good choices for a first build and if the enclosure was big enough and if the sealed enclosure is the best option for that driver.

The use would be 60/40 movies/music. I also was messing around with winISD to graph a model, but don't really know what I should be looking for.

Thanks for any input/help.
post #2 of 82
As long as your room isn't massive your plan should work well. The HF likes large sealed boxes, and has a naturally deep response. 100L gives Q .824, which is perfectly fine. The difference between 300W and 500W is about 2db, so it depends on how much you're going to push things.
post #3 of 82
like jay mentioned, the plan will create a good sub. i'm just wondering if it will be the right one for you.

how large is your room?
post #4 of 82
Thread Starter 
The room is just over 2000 cu ft. but has open doorways to the rest of the house.

I attached a quick drawing of the basic layout and where I plan to put the new sub as that is where I currently have one now.
LL
post #5 of 82
I am also considering a pair of Dayton 15" HF drivers for 2600cu ft dedicated theater room. Wondering what should be the cabinet volume for a sealed enclosure so that the subs have good extension & outout down to 20Hz. Planning to power them with CrownXLS1000 which can do 1100watts at 4ohms in bridged mode.
post #6 of 82
That build site you linked also has plans for a 5ft3 ported box, which would work with the 390HO. The difference would be an average of 6db more output below 30hz (equivalent of adding a second sealed sub). Just something to consider.

http://www.danmarx.org/audioinnovation/tcsounds.html
LL
post #7 of 82
Thread Starter 
Yeah I saw that design, but it is too long to fit into the corner. Also for my first build I just wanted to do a simple sealed sub.
post #8 of 82
Is 100l after bracing, driver, and amp?

Get the 300w, with 500w you'll pass xmax.
post #9 of 82
Thread Starter 
it should be about 100l after bracing, amp, and driver
post #10 of 82
"I am also considering a pair of Dayton 15" HF drivers for 2600cu ft dedicated theater room. Wondering what should be the cabinet volume for a sealed enclosure so that the subs have good extension & outout down to 20Hz."

that is a tough question to answer. if you go with a smaller cab, you will have less extension per watt, but much greater driver protection with a properly spec'd amp. if you go for a largish cab, you will get more extension with less power, but it will be easier to damage your drivers.

if you are not really sure of what you are doing, the smallish cabs are the way to go. for the hf, smallish is around 4 cubes per driver and about 300 watts per driver will push them a hair past xmax in the 20hz region.
post #11 of 82
I can accomodate the size upto 4.5cu ft internal volume per cabinet. Hopefully that will be enough.
post #12 of 82
Have you though about possible going with the MKIII titanic dayton driver?
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=295-420 They go on sale for around $200 now and then and are a much better driver than the HF.
You could keep the box to 3 cubic feet and under if you wanted also.

the reason I say all this is I literally just finished building a 3CF box with a RSS390HF and a bash 500. Even at 3CF you can still find the limits of the driver very easily. Since the drivers were only left overs and I have no money in them, I grabbed 2 titanics and they are a serious step up. Not that the rss390 is bad or anything, it's a great driver but I would have been disappointed if it was what I had to use for HT.
If you do go you first route, don't go with the the 500 watt amp, you'll only have it on half gain anyways, go with the 300 and save a bit of money.
post #13 of 82
Hello N8DOGG,

Suggesting 300W for a box around this size loaded with a TIT400 is setting someone up to have a lot of untapped Xmax on the table. The TIT400 hits Xmax at ~20hz at ~800W in 84 litres sealed. 300W is more or less out of reach of the drivers Xmax unless it is run in an IB.

Regards,
Eric
post #14 of 82
Thread Starter 
I thought about going with the titanic but then I would have to go with the bash 500W and that ends up being another $150
post #15 of 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdocod View Post

Hello N8DOGG,

Suggesting 300W for a box around this size loaded with a TIT400 is setting someone up to have a lot of untapped Xmax on the table. The TIT400 hits Xmax at ~20hz at ~800W in 84 litres sealed. 300W is more or less out of reach of the drivers Xmax unless it is run in an IB.

Regards,
Eric

No, I was suggesting if he kept his original plans, that he use the 300 watt amp and save hsi money as the 500 watt amp would not be used with the HF.

See what I said here "If you do go your first route, don't go with the the 500 watt amp, you'll only have it on half gain anyways, go with the 300 and save a bit of money"

And his first route would have been the HF and either the 300 or 500 watt plate amp.
post #16 of 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by tmn107 View Post

I thought about going with the titanic but then I would have to go with the bash 500W and that ends up being another $150

Roger that. I was just throwing out ideas since I had just built 2.
post #17 of 82
Thread Starter 
I just want an improvement from the onkyo HTIB subwoofer that I currently have.
post #18 of 82
Sorry N8DOGG,

I didn't interpret that post correctly the first time through, folks, please ignore my input on that, my bad

Regards,
Eric
post #19 of 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdocod View Post

Sorry N8DOGG,

I didn't interpret that post correctly the first time through, folks, please ignore my input on that, my bad

Regards,
Eric

Tis all good Though you were surely right. A 300 watt amp would be a waste on a titanic.
post #20 of 82
I am also interested in doing a similar project this summer. OP, you should post progress pics.I also haven't done much woodworking besides woodshop but i never did something of this scale. Just wondering, what kind of tools will i need for a diy sub?Also, building a cabinet seems daunting after i looked up what kind of tools i will need. Is there anyone in the SE wisconsin area that i can get to build a box for me? I simply lack the skill or the tools lol. not exactly swimming in the cash here.
post #21 of 82
Look on craigslist, there are always adds for woodworkers wanting work. When I'm feeling lazy, I get my boxes whipped up for $125 each for MDF and $160 for BB from a local cabinet maker.
post #22 of 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post

Look on craigslist, there are always adds for woodworkers wanting work. When I'm feeling lazy, I get my boxes whipped up for $125 each for MDF and $160 for BB from a local cabinet maker.

i see. ok. i might give that a shot. can i also make the box in the dan marx link the OP provided using a jigsaw? try and free-hand the hole for the driver? Do i need to make the bevel edges for the braces or can they be sharp corners?
post #23 of 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post

Have you though about possible going with the MKIII titanic dayton driver?
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=295-420

I literally just finished building a 3CF box with a RSS390HF and a bash 500. Even at 3CF you can still find the limits of the driver very easily.
I grabbed 2 titanics and they are a serious step up.

Just wondering why the Titanic's are a serious step up over the 390HF's.
Is it sound quality?
More output?
Deeper extension?
Was that 2 titanics vs 1 HF?
Same size box?

The reason I ask is I was going to do 4 x 390HF's in 4cf sealed boxes using the Oaudio 500w amps. (Already have the amps)
Now you got me second guessing.
post #24 of 82
Yes to all of your questions except it was 1 titanic to 1 HF. You will not find the limits of the Titanic with your 500 watt amp but you most certainly will with your 500 watt amps.
I swapped drivers in my 3CF boxes from the HF to the Titanic and there was most certainly a difference in SQ. If you had 300 watt amps the HF's would be perfect.
I built these subs to give to a friend who will be getting back from Afghanistan on Thursday night, 1 sub is already at his place with titanic installed and the other will be on it's way tomorrow. I spend almost 20 hours trying to make the boxes as perfect as possible. I'm an autobody painter and had some spare time at work. I spend 2 x 10 hour days blocking, priming painting, cut and polish etc getting my boxes 99.999% flawless and i know my buddy is gonna flip out! His wife doesn't even know because she's a freaking blabber mouth lol here is a quick pic, it's the only thing I got right now until I give them to him : Piano black with red zerillic fx pearl:



post #25 of 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post

Yes to all of your questions except it was 1 titanic to 1 HF. You will not find the limits of the Titanic with your 500 watt amp but you most certainly will with your 500 watt amps.
I swapped drivers in my 3CF boxes from the HF to the Titanic and there was most certainly a difference in SQ. If you had 300 watt amps the HF's would be perfect.
I built these subs to give to a friend who will be getting back from Afghanistan on Thursday night, 1 sub is already at his place with titanic installed and the other will be on it's way tomorrow. I spend almost 20 hours trying to make the boxes as perfect as possible. I'm an autobody painter and had some spare time at work. I spend 2 x 10 hour days blocking, priming painting, cut and polish etc getting my boxes 99.999% flawless and i know my buddy is gonna flip out! His wife doesn't even know because she's a freaking blabber mouth lol here is a quick pic, it's the only thing I got right now until I give them to him : Piano black with red zerillic fx pearl:



That my friend is incredible work and an even more incredible gesture. Well done. Thank your friend for his service for the rest of us. Without folks like him we dont have the opportunity to enjoy these hobbies.
post #26 of 82
Thread Starter 
Wow that sub looks awesome, how do you do that type of finish?
post #27 of 82
I have seen several posts stating the sound quality of the 390HF is better than the Titanic. I was going to go with a pair of the 390HF (5cf sealed) but am now wondering if the Titanic is the way to go now as well. I will be powering mine off of an Adcom GFA-555 so they will be getting about 400W each at 4 ohms. A bigger amp may be in the future if needed.
post #28 of 82
I am also thinking about going with 15" Titanic MK3 drivers in two 3cu ft sealed cabs for 2600cu ft room. I can always eq the sub for 20hz performance. Looks like Titanic can take 1100 watts at 4ohms from Crown XLS1000 better than HF or HO drivers.
post #29 of 82
wow... is the titanic series really that much better? hmm, how would the 12" titanic model in the above box?
post #30 of 82
Quote:
Originally Posted by tmn107 View Post

Wow that sub looks awesome, how do you do that type of finish?

It's auto paint and too many hours of blocking and priming, lots of clear then a complete block again, clear again, cut and polish. It's a ton of work but I know my buddy is gonna be blown away! I'm now in the process of making one for myself. I'm gonna be using a Mach 5 audio 15" IXL though. More throw and a 1000 watt plate amp. Same box, same color. I'll post pics when it's done with the sub installed.
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