AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Receivers, Amps, and Processors › The "official" Yamaha RX-V673 thread. 7.2-Channel Network AVR
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The "official" Yamaha RX-V673 thread. 7.2-Channel Network AVR - Page 44

post #1291 of 2020
Another thing, try disconnecting both ends of the speaker wire (make sure the ends are not touching), and use an ohm meter on one end, each lead from the meter to each wire. This would tell you if you have a short in the wire somewhere if you read anything other than an open.

Thanks. I will give this a shot.
post #1292 of 2020
I returned my V673 and bought the RX-A820. All of my sound delay issues are gone. Not sure if it was a bad V673 or if that V673 didn't play well with my Sony Blu Ray players and my Samsung TV.....
post #1293 of 2020
Quote:
Originally Posted by timmay77 View Post

I returned my V673 and bought the RX-A820. All of my sound delay issues are gone. Not sure if it was a bad V673 or if that V673 didn't play well with my Sony Blu Ray players and my Samsung TV.....
Thats great! smile.gif
post #1294 of 2020
I have the rx-v773 and i need some help. I have it connected to my ps3(fat)and when watching blu ray, there is no dialogue coming from my center channel. I have tried setting to the ps3 settings to lpcm & hdmi, but still no luck. Only time i get dialogue is whem i switch to bitstream, but then i lose sound quality big time. Does the 773 support multi linear pcm? I do get 2channel pcm and dialogue, but i dont think its processing DD-HD or DTS-HD. Please help me before i shoot myself.
post #1295 of 2020
Quote:
Originally Posted by timmay77 View Post

I returned my V673 and bought the RX-A820. All of my sound delay issues are gone. Not sure if it was a bad V673 or if that V673 didn't play well with my Sony Blu Ray players and my Samsung TV.....


I have to retract this statement, I am still having sound delay issues. frown.gif I do however really like the A820. I just wish I could figure this out!! It's driving me crazy.
post #1296 of 2020
Quote:
Originally Posted by timmay77 View Post

I have to retract this statement, I am still having sound delay issues. frown.gif I do however really like the A820. I just wish I could figure this out!! It's driving me crazy.

I know the 673 has it, so I would assume the 820 has it as well. There is a lip sync delay and adjustment. Have you tried these adjustments?
post #1297 of 2020
Quote:
Originally Posted by highdefav1 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by timmay77 View Post

I have to retract this statement, I am still having sound delay issues. frown.gif I do however really like the A820. I just wish I could figure this out!! It's driving me crazy.

I know the 673 has it, so I would assume the 820 has it as well. There is a lip sync delay and adjustment. Have you tried these adjustments?

My problem is audio delay. The audio delay feature would just make my problem worse. I need audio advance, which non of my equipment has.
post #1298 of 2020
Quote:
Originally Posted by timmay77 View Post

My problem is audio delay. The audio delay feature would just make my problem worse. I need audio advance, which non of my equipment has.
Maybe it is time to get a Denon.
post #1299 of 2020
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by timmay77 View Post

My problem is audio delay. The audio delay feature would just make my problem worse. I need audio advance, which non of my equipment has.
Maybe it is time to get a Denon.

LOL.

I had considered it, but the Denon does not have the necessary inputs I need along with the button configuration to work with my Harmony One remote.
post #1300 of 2020
Quote:
Originally Posted by timmay77 View Post

My problem is audio delay. The audio delay feature would just make my problem worse. I need audio advance, which non of my equipment has.

I don't think it's a Yamaha problem (nobody else ever has this issue). Did you ever describe exactly how everything is wired up (the exact list of cable connections between Blu-ray player, receiver and TV)? That might help.

And for sure you should do all your troubleshooting with lipsync set to manual mode (which I think you tried, but I would leave it in manual mode).
post #1301 of 2020
Quote:
Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by timmay77 View Post

My problem is audio delay. The audio delay feature would just make my problem worse. I need audio advance, which non of my equipment has.

I don't think it's a Yamaha problem (nobody else ever has this issue). Did you ever describe exactly how everything is wired up (the exact list of cable connections between Blu-ray player, receiver and TV)? That might help.

And for sure you should do all your troubleshooting with lipsync set to manual mode (which I think you tried, but I would leave it in manual mode).

Several people have reported this issue across several threads.

I picked up a Sony BDP-S790 so I can use the dual HDMI outputs to try and split the audio and video sending the audio to the to the AVR and the video directly to the TV. Hopefully this will fix it!

My cable set up is pretty streamlined.

Sony BR player - AVR (Blu Ray input 1) - TV . All with brand new HDMI cables. My HD cable box is the same except I use input 3. It has delay as well, though not as bad as the BR player.

I do have the lip sync set to manual.

Thank you for the advice btw, I really appreciate people taking the time to offer suggestions. I'm still in the learning phase......
post #1302 of 2020
Airplay AND DLNA issues

I previously wrote about issues with Airplay, but reported that DLNA was working fine. The same problem appears to plague both Airplay and DLNA. The AVR simply doesn't show up as a device in Airplay or for DLNA (when the Server input is used). The AVR is reporting as connected to the network. I seem to have to freshly register the AVR on the network by making sure that network standby is off and power cycling it. When I do this, I can usually (eventually) get it working. It's just a pain. It also seems like I might have to just leave network standby off, but this means remote functions from other parts of the house are limited.

Am I the only one experiencing a similar problem? Since it is possible to get it to work, I think there's a good chance it has more to do with my network, likely the router, than it does with the AVR. My TV has always showed up fine--until recently. Last night, the TV did not initially show up as a device either. Although this is the only time this has happened with the TV, it does lend some credence to it being a network/router issue. Last night, I unplugged and replugged my router, and that worked. I'd hate to have to do that every time, though.

I'm getting close to the end of my return period, though, so if this is an AVR problem it would be nice to know. Everything else seems to work fine, so I'm reluctant to exchange it and take my chances. There aren't many of these left in stock.
post #1303 of 2020
FWIW, I use Airplay and it has been working fine with Network Standby on. I have not had to fiddle with it so far.
post #1304 of 2020
Can't get On Screen Display on my V673. My TV is old and has no HDMI inputs so I tried to connect via composite MON output on the reciever to Video input on my TV and just get a black screen. Any suggestions?
post #1305 of 2020
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThinkRationally View Post

Airplay AND DLNA issues

I previously wrote about issues with Airplay, but reported that DLNA was working fine. The same problem appears to plague both Airplay and DLNA. The AVR simply doesn't show up as a device in Airplay or for DLNA (when the Server input is used). The AVR is reporting as connected to the network. I seem to have to freshly register the AVR on the network by making sure that network standby is off and power cycling it. When I do this, I can usually (eventually) get it working. It's just a pain. It also seems like I might have to just leave network standby off, but this means remote functions from other parts of the house are limited.

Am I the only one experiencing a similar problem? Since it is possible to get it to work, I think there's a good chance it has more to do with my network, likely the router, than it does with the AVR. My TV has always showed up fine--until recently. Last night, the TV did not initially show up as a device either. Although this is the only time this has happened with the TV, it does lend some credence to it being a network/router issue. Last night, I unplugged and replugged my router, and that worked. I'd hate to have to do that every time, though.

I'm getting close to the end of my return period, though, so if this is an AVR problem it would be nice to know. Everything else seems to work fine, so I'm reluctant to exchange it and take my chances. There aren't many of these left in stock.

Why not just buy a new router and see if that is the issue? If it fixes the problem, great you needed it anyway. If not, take back the new router and AVR.
post #1306 of 2020
Quote:
Originally Posted by Purplemon View Post

Can't get On Screen Display on my V673. My TV is old and has no HDMI inputs so I tried to connect via composite MON output on the reciever to Video input on my TV and just get a black screen. Any suggestions?

Yes, get a different receiver, or use the iPad or iPhone app if you have one. Without HDMI you will not get on-screen display.
post #1307 of 2020
Quote:
Originally Posted by Purplemon View Post

Can't get On Screen Display on my V673. My TV is old and has no HDMI inputs so I tried to connect via composite MON output on the reciever to Video input on my TV and just get a black screen. Any suggestions?

Not sure I would get a different receiver. I would lean more towards getting a new display. Displays (LED/Plasmas) have come way down in price, maybe it's time for an update.
post #1308 of 2020
Sorry if these have been covered. I'll confess I haven't read the entire forum but I can't get search to work in any browser tonight. Not sure if it's me or AVS.

Anyway, my Denon is being sent out for warranty repair and I'm not sure I'm keeping it once fixed, so I picked up a 673 today (this is my first Yamaha) and I have a couple questions. I have downloaded the manual and read/scanned/searched most of it.

Is it normal for the on-screen volume, etc to not work when video scaling is on? That and lack of 480p conversion from component are the puzzling things about this receiver. I can work around them, it's just weird to me.

Also, is there any sort of screen saver when in USB/Pandora/Airplay, etc? I have a plasma and I get concerned about image retention. I know you can manually turn the display off to just background (or turn the TV off), but I'm curious if it can be automated.

I'm looking forward to running YPAO tomorrow, but I like what I'm hearing so far. My Denon needed Audyssey badly. I don't feel that way about the Yamaha. I also like how cool it runs.

Thanks for any input or pointers.
post #1309 of 2020
Quote:
Originally Posted by highdefav1 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Purplemon View Post

Can't get On Screen Display on my V673. My TV is old and has no HDMI inputs so I tried to connect via composite MON output on the reciever to Video input on my TV and just get a black screen. Any suggestions?

Not sure I would get a different receiver. I would lean more towards getting a new display. Displays (LED/Plasmas) have come way down in price, maybe it's time for an update.

Yes, this is actually MUCH better advice than mine! Definitely get a new monitor and then you can use all the very cool features of this AVR.
post #1310 of 2020
Having problems with connecting iPod touch and iPhone5 via usb. Yes its better to use airplay, but my customers also asked for a hard-wired connection. So for now I'm providing them with headphone out analog connection. The USB problem is that simple remote mode where you navigate via iDevice (instead of on-screen mode) doesn't work. The mode button releases the "accessory connected" screen, but no navigation on the iDevice is possible. In this mode you can only start playback using the yamaha remote's play button and use skip buttons. On-screen mode seems to work fine but can be tedious. I don't recall this problem with other 673/773 installs. Could somebody check for the same problem?

Also the onscreen GUI of Network sources is sometimes squished off to the left. I currently have background video behind for these network sources set to HDMI2 (satellite)

Thanks
post #1311 of 2020
Quote:
Originally Posted by josh22 View Post

Why not just buy a new router and see if that is the issue? If it fixes the problem, great you needed it anyway. If not, take back the new router and AVR.

My router/modem was installed as part of a fiber optic service (land line phone, internet, and TV). I think I've found instructions online for configuring other routers to do the job, but I'm not eager to mess with it. Another option might be to install a second router and connect my home network through that to see if things work better.
post #1312 of 2020
Quote:
Originally Posted by larkowski1 View Post

Is it normal for the on-screen volume, etc to not work when video scaling is on? That and lack of 480p conversion from component are the puzzling things about this receiver. I can work around them, it's just weird to me.

Also, is there any sort of screen saver when in USB/Pandora/Airplay, etc? I have a plasma and I get concerned about image retention. I know you can manually turn the display off to just background (or turn the TV off), but I'm curious if it can be automated.

I'm looking forward to running YPAO tomorrow, but I like what I'm hearing so far. My Denon needed Audyssey badly. I don't feel that way about the Yamaha. I also like how cool it runs.

Thanks for any input or pointers.

I have found that when the AVR is doing upconversion there is a delay and blackout of a second or two whenever you open the on-screen menu. This could be the reason the volume is not displayed. I don't use upconversion, as my TV seems to be slightly better at it.

For Airplay, internet radio, and DLNA (Server input), I switched the video to output the TV signal from my STB. So I can listen to those sources and watch the TV picture. I shut off the screen so I don't see the play info from the AVR. This does not seem to be an option for USB, though. At least with internet radio, there is a very annoying "feature"--every time a new song starts the AVR screen pops back up and you have to turn it off again. If anyone knows a setting to stop this from happening, it would be greatly appreciated.

If you really need 480p transcoding to HDMI with upconversion, I picked up a component-to-HDMI converter from monoprice for $40 (audio and video). Now my DVD player is just another HDMI input--upconversion works (if I wanted to use it), and no transcoding required.
post #1313 of 2020
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThinkRationally View Post

My router/modem was installed as part of a fiber optic service (land line phone, internet, and TV). I think I've found instructions online for configuring other routers to do the job, but I'm not eager to mess with it. Another option might be to install a second router and connect my home network through that to see if things work better.

Have you set specific IP addresses for any of your devices, or are you allowing the DHCP server in the router to automatically assign them? It sounds to me as though there is either something a little odd going on with the router's DHCP server in terms of maintenance of IP address leases when devices go to sleep, or else there may be two devices on your network with the same address and they are conflicting.

Technical details and instructions follow, which I hope I have made as clear as possible!

If you can check your router's configuration settings, you want to look at the IP address, subnet mask, and DHCP server settings. Most home routers by default use IP addresses either 192.168.0.(0-255) or else 192.168.1.(0-255) for the home network. The DHCP server settings should tell you what the first address is that the DHCP server will use, and also how many DHCP clients are allowed to attach to your router. For instance, if the first DHCP address is 192.168.0.100, and 10 clients are allowed, then your router will assign addresses 192.168.0.100, 192.168.0.101, 192.168.0.102, etc., sequentially as more devices connect, up to 192.168.0.109.

You can try "hard-coding" a static IP address on your AVR to get around potential problems with the DHCP server in the router. Once you've figured out what addresses are "blocked out" for use by the DHCP server, simply assign an address that is not one of those numbers, but is between 1 and 254. It just can't be the same address that is assigned to the router itself, which is why you also need to check that number. Then get into your AVR setup, network settings, and manually assign it an IP address - the first three numbers should be the same as your router (usually 192.168.0 or 192.168.1) and the last number is the one that has to be different from the router AND not in the range assigned to the DHCP server. You probably will also have to enter a "subnet mask" which you should make the same as the subnet mask in the router settings (usually it's either 255.255.255.0 or 255.255.0.0), and possibly a "gateway" address which should be the IP address of your router. Sorry I'm not home right now to look in my own settings to see exactly what is required.

I would set a static IP on the AVR (and maybe also your TV, if you're having a problem there too) and see if it takes care of the problem - then you avoid needing to buy a new router... unless that doesn't work, of course.
post #1314 of 2020
Quote:
Originally Posted by mknecht01 View Post


If you can check your router's configuration settings, you want to look at the IP address, subnet mask, and DHCP server settings. Most home routers by default use IP addresses either 192.168.0.(0-255) or else 192.168.1.(0-255) for the home network. The DHCP server settings should tell you what the first address is that the DHCP server will use, and also how many DHCP clients are allowed to attach to your router. For instance, if the first DHCP address is 192.168.0.100, and 10 clients are allowed, then your router will assign addresses 192.168.0.100, 192.168.0.101, 192.168.0.102, etc., sequentially as more devices connect, up to 192.168.0.109.

Clarification: your router will have two IP addresses - you want to be looking at the LAN IP address, not the WAN IP address.
post #1315 of 2020
Quote:
Originally Posted by mknecht01 View Post

Have you set specific IP addresses for any of your devices, or are you allowing the DHCP server in the router to automatically assign them? It sounds to me as though there is either something a little odd going on with the router's DHCP server in terms of maintenance of IP address leases when devices go to sleep, or else there may be two devices on your network with the same address and they are conflicting.

Technical details and instructions follow, which I hope I have made as clear as possible!

If you can check your router's configuration settings, you want to look at the IP address, subnet mask, and DHCP server settings. Most home routers by default use IP addresses either 192.168.0.(0-255) or else 192.168.1.(0-255) for the home network. The DHCP server settings should tell you what the first address is that the DHCP server will use, and also how many DHCP clients are allowed to attach to your router. For instance, if the first DHCP address is 192.168.0.100, and 10 clients are allowed, then your router will assign addresses 192.168.0.100, 192.168.0.101, 192.168.0.102, etc., sequentially as more devices connect, up to 192.168.0.109.

You can try "hard-coding" a static IP address on your AVR to get around potential problems with the DHCP server in the router. Once you've figured out what addresses are "blocked out" for use by the DHCP server, simply assign an address that is not one of those numbers, but is between 1 and 254. It just can't be the same address that is assigned to the router itself, which is why you also need to check that number. Then get into your AVR setup, network settings, and manually assign it an IP address - the first three numbers should be the same as your router (usually 192.168.0 or 192.168.1) and the last number is the one that has to be different from the router AND not in the range assigned to the DHCP server. You probably will also have to enter a "subnet mask" which you should make the same as the subnet mask in the router settings (usually it's either 255.255.255.0 or 255.255.0.0), and possibly a "gateway" address which should be the IP address of your router. Sorry I'm not home right now to look in my own settings to see exactly what is required.

I would set a static IP on the AVR (and maybe also your TV, if you're having a problem there too) and see if it takes care of the problem - then you avoid needing to buy a new router... unless that doesn't work, of course.

Thanks. I should say that I'm not a non-technical person (work in software development). Networking is not my thing, although I dabble around in it and can generally get thing working.

The router is set for DHCP, and apparently is has to stay that way. There are 2 STB's running off of it to provide me with TV signals, and I guess that has something to do with it.

I cannot set a static IP while the router is set for DHCP. I spent a couple of hours trying to figure out how to do this, because I think it's possible (at least with some routers). I play poker with an installer for the company that put in the router, and I later confirmed with him that you cannot set static IPs. The router model, I believe supports it, but the option isn't there in the software.

On a related note, I have the Android remote app. It also had trouble finding the receiver. The app has an option to look for the AVR by the IP address, so I entered the currently assigned IP. It works every time using the IP address. On the plus side, I have turned off network standby and powered down the AVR, and even powered off the router, and the AVR always gets the same IP, so I don't have to keep changing it in my phone (at least not so far).

It just seems like things are having trouble finding the AVR based on a network name. I have confirmed that it is connected. It feels more like a network issue than an AVR issue, but I'd like to know for certain before my return period is up (in a week).
post #1316 of 2020
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThinkRationally View Post

Thanks. I should say that I'm not a non-technical person (work in software development). Networking is not my thing, although I dabble around in it and can generally get thing working.

The router is set for DHCP, and apparently is has to stay that way. There are 2 STB's running off of it to provide me with TV signals, and I guess that has something to do with it.

I cannot set a static IP while the router is set for DHCP. I spent a couple of hours trying to figure out how to do this, because I think it's possible (at least with some routers). I play poker with an installer for the company that put in the router, and I later confirmed with him that you cannot set static IPs. The router model, I believe supports it, but the option isn't there in the software.

On a related note, I have the Android remote app. It also had trouble finding the receiver. The app has an option to look for the AVR by the IP address, so I entered the currently assigned IP. It works every time using the IP address. On the plus side, I have turned off network standby and powered down the AVR, and even powered off the router, and the AVR always gets the same IP, so I don't have to keep changing it in my phone (at least not so far).

It just seems like things are having trouble finding the AVR based on a network name. I have confirmed that it is connected. It feels more like a network issue than an AVR issue, but I'd like to know for certain before my return period is up (in a week).

Haha, you certainly can set the AVR to a static IP address, they just don't want you to, because if you don't know what you're doing and you wind up with two devices with the same address, you create all kinds of weird problems that way. You leave the router settings as they are, and just set the AVR to a static IP that is not in the range of IP addresses that the DHCP server in the router is set to give out. It's not a router setting, it's an AVR setting. May, or may not, solve your problem. But the additional info you give in this post makes it seem more likely that it's not an IP problem at all, but some sort of name translation problem, if you can always locate by IP but not always by an assigned network name. Sounds very likely to be a router/network issue rather than an AVR issue, but I haven't done this stuff for a long time and I can't say for sure without actually being there to put my hands and eyes on your device.
post #1317 of 2020
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThinkRationally View Post

Thanks. I should say that I'm not a non-technical person (work in software development). Networking is not my thing, although I dabble around in it and can generally get thing working.

The router is set for DHCP, and apparently is has to stay that way. There are 2 STB's running off of it to provide me with TV signals, and I guess that has something to do with it.

I cannot set a static IP while the router is set for DHCP. I spent a couple of hours trying to figure out how to do this, because I think it's possible (at least with some routers). I play poker with an installer for the company that put in the router, and I later confirmed with him that you cannot set static IPs. The router model, I believe supports it, but the option isn't there in the software.

On a related note, I have the Android remote app. It also had trouble finding the receiver. The app has an option to look for the AVR by the IP address, so I entered the currently assigned IP. It works every time using the IP address. On the plus side, I have turned off network standby and powered down the AVR, and even powered off the router, and the AVR always gets the same IP, so I don't have to keep changing it in my phone (at least not so far).

It just seems like things are having trouble finding the AVR based on a network name. I have confirmed that it is connected. It feels more like a network issue than an AVR issue, but I'd like to know for certain before my return period is up (in a week).

The installer probably means that you can't get a static IP that is addressable from outside your network - which you would need if you were going to, for instance, run a web server from your home that anyone on the internet could see. I'm talking about setting internal static IPs solely for purposes of devices inside your home talking to each other. Different situation entirely.
post #1318 of 2020
Quote:
Originally Posted by mknecht01 View Post

The installer probably means that you can't get a static IP that is addressable from outside your network - which you would need if you were going to, for instance, run a web server from your home that anyone on the internet could see. I'm talking about setting internal static IPs solely for purposes of devices inside your home talking to each other. Different situation entirely.

Yes, I understand, and that's what I was trying to accomplish. I told him specifically that I wanted to give my AVR a static IP within my home DHCP network, and he claimed you couldn't do it. I did some searching for the model of router they installed. What I found were ways to do it, but the options they referred to are not present in my router menu. Further research often comes around to port forwarding or DMZs to get better performance for things like X-Box live.

I did try setting the AVR to have a static IP. It didn't completely work (I don't remember exactly what wasn't right), but I may have set it within the range of assignable IPs on the router (and I should know better). I will try again, making sure it's outside the range, and see what happens.

However, the AVR IP is effectively static now, in that it has remained the same through power downs with network standby off, and even through a power down of the router. Maybe there's some sort of network name-IP resolution issue going on, as I think you suggested. Along these lines, I did change the network name of the AVR in the AVR setup (since the default is just the model number). When I first connected it to the router, it had the default name. I will try resetting the name to the default. Or perhaps I can purge any persisted data concerning the AVR from the router and start fresh with the new name (but I'll try reverting to the default first).

If none of that works reliably, perhaps I'll pick up a router, hardwire it to the existing router, and set up a new network (different SSID) and see if another router deals with it better.

I should reiterate that, with some tinkering and powering down and toggling network standby, that I can get Airplay and DLNA to work. Once the receiver is recognized by iTunes or DLNA sharing on my phone, it works great.

Thanks for all the feedback mknecht01.
post #1319 of 2020
Just to add, whenever I research using static IP's with DHCP, what I find generally refers both to setting the IP on the device and also reserving a static IP through a setting in the router (based on MAC address). I don't think I have such a setting in my router. If I just set an IP on the AVR and do nothing to the router, will the router be able to deal with this?
post #1320 of 2020
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThinkRationally View Post

I told him specifically that I wanted to give my AVR a static IP within my home DHCP network, and he claimed you couldn't do it.

Sounds like you need a new installer...

Most routers have a DHCP range of something like 192.168.1.100-192.168.1.200
You can statically set the IP on any device on your network to something in the range of 192.168.1.2-99 or 192.168.1.201-254 and you'd be fine. This is assuming your router is setup to use a network of 192.168.1.0/24 (which it seems most are).
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Receivers, Amps, and Processors
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Receivers, Amps, and Processors › The "official" Yamaha RX-V673 thread. 7.2-Channel Network AVR