Official Panasonic VT50 owners thread - Page 343

Couple questions:

1) Has anyone noticed that the buzziness of their VT50 has gotten worse over time?

2) Has anyone has any success getting their buzzy VT50 serviced in the field and had it improved by this at all?

1) No
2) N/A

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Yamaha RX-V673

Denon 1613 and 1913. Also the Denon 1912 if the 2013 models don't have something that you really need. The two model years are almost identical. All three are available at Amazon.

Here is a link to the 2012 model year owner's thread.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1334369/the-official-denon-avr-xx12-model-owners-thread/0_50

There is an owner's thread for the 2013 model year too.

Thanks for the info. Time for a new AVR! I appreciate it. Thanks again.

Can anyone reccomend a good receiver for 250 or less? The one I have is rather old. Pretty sure I only need 5.1 as I only have 5 speakers. I know nothing of receivers. I just want one with HDMI so I can run my wires a little better

You looking for 5.1 or 7.1? If only 5.1, the Denon 1713 is hard to beat and can be had for $400 - $450.

Well, I swapped my Sharp Elite for the VT50 last week (thanks Magnolia). Now that I have blacked out the cheesy chrome border and dimmed the red power led, input some settings, I'm left with one new problem.......it is injecting 60 hz hum into the power in my theater room. My sub now hums with no input connected. Wasn't there with my Runco or Elite. I'm troubleshooting it now.

Just noticed some buzzing noise from the upper left side of the panel.

Do you have any sort of power center outside of a standard surge suppressor? I recently got a Monster Power Center on clearance from BB and it has filtering between analog, digital and high current devices. This would "in theory" eliminate that problem. The warranty provided for electrical damage is a nice addition as well. I got the 1650, which is equivalent to the 1600 going for about $100-130 at the usual locations.

This is an excellent basic receiver and will bring you in under budget. It does everything practical that the Denon 1713 does except it is not a network receiver and it will save you $200.

Unless you are already familiar with ground loops, now is the time to learn. Ground loops can be very tricky.

You might consider this "ground lifter", which is a sure-fire way to eliminate ground loop hum.

Of course it also has the effect of eliminating ground for the device you plug into it, but it works great. Also called a "cheater plug". It's not normally recommended (and there are other much more expensive capacitative solutions, i.e. isolation transformers):


I still use it for a headphone amp in my sound system, which for some reason produced the ground loop hum being discussed when sharing the power strip other devices were also plugged into. Inserting this "lifter" solved the problem painlessly and inexpensively.

I think I picked up a few at a local hardware store for about $.25/each, so this one online is "expensive". But it was the solution for my ground loop hum.
Edited by DSperber - 2/14/13 at 11:49am

In general, it's far better to find the source of a ground loop and fix it. Removing "ground" from the triggering device can cause unintended consequences.

I agree, I have the 1913 for my 7.1 and grabbed it when on sale for around 450. Been really pleased with it . If you don't have or not planning for 7.1 in the future then I'd consider the 1713 as an option.

I have asked a few people and no one knows the answer

my xbox 360 restarts every time I switch the input

if I am playing and I switch to a different input its fine, but when I switch back to the xbox 360 it restarts the console

I dont have this problem with my Pioneer Elite PRO-111FD or a Sony LED LCD from a few years ago, also my samsung LED LCD - its only the 65VT50 that does this

I have checked the power settings on the TV as well as the xbox 360 and nothing seems to stop this

I will be getting a receiver soon and I assume that will solve this problem since I am not switching the TV input but the receiver input but for now its a problem for me and has caused me to burn in some stuff because I didnt want to have the game restart without saving and I had to do something for a few

is this a HDCP handshake error causing the console to restart?

Is this at all related to what you're experiencing?

http://www.avforums.com/forums/xbox-360/633656-xbox-360-reboots-when-switching-hdmi-input.html

Mine is causing my amp to buzz. I had everything plugged into a monster power conditioner that did not prevent the buzz. Actually, I now have my amp plugged into another outlet, on the same circuit, and there is less buzz. I am thinking about running a separate outlet just for my plasma.

Thanks for the recommendations. I have a 5.1 system. The 1613 was $50 less than the 1713 and looked very similar, so I ordered the 1613.

I made a similar choice a year ago. However if i had to do it over and I'd have probably paid the extra 50 just to have the audyssey multieq xt based on how happy I've been with just the non xt version.

Hmm that's odd, likewise I have everything running into a monster power conditioner and get no buzz or any noise. Noise filter has been working really well for me.

Hmm....I never encountered any problems like that. But if you can afford it, I would recommend having two or more seperate electrical outlets that's at least 20amp each. If your like me who has a seperate amp and sub, I have three dedicated 20amp outlets. Two of my outlets are dedicated to my amp and sub and the other outlet is dedicated to my surge protector for my Plasma, pre-amp and other low wattage components. And also make sure that if your using two or more seperate outlets, make sure in your fuse box that there in the same main line and also make sure your fuse box is grounded properly. That should help out with any hum issues. Also, if you can use XLR's instead of RCA, the third pin in the XLR; which is a grounding pin, will help with any groud loop issues and should also help with hum issues. Though I'm not saying that XLR is better than RCA interconnects, but that extra pin on the XLR may make a difference to you. If your fuse box and electrical outlets are grounded properly, it also doesn't hurt to do some extra grounding on your own for your receiver and surge protector if they offer a grounding screw in the rear as my surge has an additional grounding screw on the back. I hope you can resolve your issues quickly. I wish you the best and have a great new year.

P.S. On another note; as I've talked to my electric company and many different surge protection companies, they told me that when you connect a surge protector to any of your homes outlets, you will not get the true amps that outlets is setup for. For instance, a 20 amp outlet with a connected surge protector will be reduced to 16amps and a 15 amp outlet will be reduced to 11 total amps. So be careful not to overload your outlets and play it safe by installing 20amp our more amp outlets so overloading doesn't occurr. At 20 amps; technically it should provide up to 2400 watts of power. But realistically, if a surge is connected to a 20 amp outlet, you will be getting a maximum of 1920 watts. Anyway, good luck once again with everything.

Update:

Rewired my theater room and the Panny is now plugged into a different circuit. No more hum, life is good.

Do these tvs have seperate isf day and night modes? Can the color points be adjusted?

Yes and yes, but to unlock them you either need to get ControlCal or get a professional calibration.

Any isf calibrator should be able to do this?

Any reputable one should have the capability.

Does anyone know if you can send and play audio on the VT50 by Bluetooth pairing media devices with it? I see you can pair headphones to receive audio from the VT50best tablet pc review
I tried to pair my Galaxy Nexus with my VT50 but the VT50 did not recognize it. The GN did recognize the VT50 however.
Edited by ackergwj - 3/18/13 at 7:38pm

I don't know if this is a DirecTV or a 65VT50 problem, but here's the issue...

I have a DirecTV HR24 connected to this TV. Whenever I watch one of the 3D channels (101-107), I can do so without any problems. However, when I pull up the channel guide, all the 3D channels are grayed (faded) out. Consequently, when I try to record a 3D program live, I get the message that says, "This receiver is not authorized to record this program." When I try to record a future showing of something on one of the 3D channels (101-107), I get a similar message telling me that because the "...receiver is not authorized to record that program...program may not record; choose cancel or record anyway."

It used to be that for some odd reason, I'd have to have my HR24 tuned onto one of those 3D channels for 10 to 20 minutes or so before the channels "lit up" in the guide and became recordable. However, they've remained grayed out for the last several hours. Resetting the receiver didn't help this time, either.

I've checked the Panny's settings, even changing 3D detect from "Auto 1" to "Auto 2" (whatever the difference is), but that didn't help. FWIW, I did notice that this problem seems to have become really prevalent after I changed my A/V to 65VT50 HDMI connection from HDMI-1 on the Panny to HDMI-2 (ARC).

DirecTV doesn't really know why this is happening, so I figured I'd check and see if anyone else has experienced this and if someone might think it's a DirecTV problem or a TV problem.

i dont see how yout tv could impact your dvr that way all the tv does is display the input its given