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Official Panasonic VT50 owners thread - Page 354

post #10591 of 12498
Quote:
Originally Posted by nabsltd View Post

You should see the "no signal" message.

Have an SD card or USB drive with slides (or just general pictures) and slap that in and run a slideshow. That will at least let you know that the panel can display pictures. Pretty much everything but the panel itself can be swapped out on a service call, so if (for example) the tuner didn't work but everything else did, you don't need to know that right away, and it's easy to replace under warranty.

Good Tip. I'll be ready next time... Anything special to do so it kicks off the slide show or does it automatically do it when a card is inserted?
post #10592 of 12498
Quote:
Originally Posted by bstudey01 View Post

Thank you sir, I tried to quote my original post but must have messed it up. I ordered my TV online. The vendor will only accept a return if the TV is inspected at shipment and has an issue. Otherwise they want me to deal with Panasonic. Just want to make sure it's all good before I sign for it.

I got mine from Amazon and the delivery guys wouldn't turn it on if it was below 50 and it was. I just had to sign that it couldn't be turned on and let it warm for a few hours before I turned it on and it was fine.
post #10593 of 12498
Quote:
Originally Posted by dogbertok View Post

Good Tip. I'll be ready next time... Anything special to do so it kicks off the slide show or does it automatically do it when a card is inserted?

Near the bottom right on the remote there is a USB/SD button. Press that and then follow the screen prompts. Pretty intuitive.
post #10594 of 12498
Quote:
Originally Posted by maygit View Post

I have the exact same thing going on with my set and i've just kind of taken it as a normal part of the filter. I can usually only see it on a white background. I've had my set since October and it's been on for 300 hours or so (I don't use it heavily). If you follow up through panasonic or if it goes away, let me know.

Sure, will keep you posted. I agree it only shows up on a white background but I will chase this up with panasonic eek.gif
post #10595 of 12498
Well tomorrow should be my last day of running d-nice slides. For those who use his settings, just how much better does it look over the thx modes and even the game mode? Also, let's say I don't like his settings, would I be able to just plug in someone else's settings or would I have to do slides again?
post #10596 of 12498
Quote:
Originally Posted by ggface014 View Post

For those who use his settings, just how much better does it look over the thx modes and even the game mode?
Game mode makes no attempt to be "accurate", so if you like how it looks, you will hate the DNice settings (and probably won't like the THX modes, either)

Otherwise, on my 55VT50, the DNice settings are much better than any built in setting, and noticably better than anything else that has been posted here. Compared to the built-in modes, contrast is vastly better with blacks black, and almost-black is correctly not black, while whites are bright but not blown out. Other settings posted here improved the contrast, but not as much as DNice.

Colors seem very accurate compared to real-world items (like sports jerseys) held next to the TV.
post #10597 of 12498
Quote:
Originally Posted by ggface014 View Post

Also, let's say I don't like his settings, would I be able to just plug in someone else's settings or would I have to do slides again?
The only use the slides have after you have followed D-Nice's instructions is if you like watching them. eek.gif
post #10598 of 12498
I do not see any option for IFSccc in the Panasonic TC-P55VT50 Setup menu, how do I enable it ??
post #10599 of 12498
Buy controlCal from TURBE
post #10600 of 12498
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mactavish View Post

CANNOT RUN JPEG SLIDESHOW!



I'm having a rough time with JPEG photo viewing on a two different "standard" USB sticks. Details below.

I found and downloaded D-Nice's JPEG photos. I'm on an Apple Mac computer, which may or may not be the issue.

D-Nice's JPEG photos are 13 all together, but when I plug in the stick, I get a total of 21, 8 of them are NOT viewable, and therefore I cannot "run" a slideshow.

I've kept this as simple as I could to trouble shoot. Two different memory sticks, formatted "FAT32", one I even formatted in "Parallels Desktop", on Windows XP, using an HP USB format utility, as yet another test. Made NO difference.

On the Mac, I am able to temporarily view "invisible" files, and there are NO invisible JPEGS, but I've even tried deleting two of the three invisible MAC files (all Macs have these in every folder) from the same and only folder with the photos on the USB stick, (you can not delete the invisible trash file). This did NOT work.

After mounting the USB stick on the 55" VT50, and using the "INFO" button on the files that won't play (8 of 21 total, there is really only supposed to be 13), they show the name as example:

"._Pattern_01" and the proper file name should be: "Pattern_01.jpg".

The difference of course being the addition of "._" in front of the file name. Don't see any of these (8) when looking at the same folder on the Mac, just the 13 properly named files.

The info button on the Display, also shows the "working" files NOT showing the date, neither do the ones that don't work/play, but the files that DO work/play show "SIZE=1920x1080", the ones that DON'T work/play do NOT show any files size.

The other oddity is I'm not getting 2x as many files, seeing 21, not 26. So there is not a "even" duplication of the original 13 either.

This is making me crazy. These invisible, mystery "bad" photo files keep showing up, and I've tried two different brand USB sticks, one is a 1 GB, the other a 16 GB, so I don't believe it's the sticks, and of course FAT32 is supposedly the proper format for them. I believe most are using Windows to begin with, and can only assume so far it's because I'm on a Mac, but cannot find any logic as to why something as simple as copying 13 photos to the USB stick is failing this way. Since no one has mentioned this as far as I can find, I know the original files must be fine, so I'm sure it's a computer issue or a formatting issue. Writing in case anyone else has seen this behavior before? If there is a better thread to post this, let me know. Thanks!

I had the same problem. Using my moms PC worked. I think it's a Mac thing. Good luck.
post #10601 of 12498
where does the controlcal plugin? its says serial port...but i did not remember 1....


post #10602 of 12498
Quote:
Originally Posted by irisservice View Post

where does the controlcal plugin? its says serial port...but i did not remember 1....



Most (I believe) use the local wireless network to connect ControlCal. That's what I do and it works perfectly.
post #10603 of 12498
Quote:
Originally Posted by irisservice View Post

where does the controlcal plugin? its says serial port...but i did not remember 1....

ControlCAL v2 supports both the Serial and Network Interfaces.. however, the VT50 has no Serial Port.

You can use either the VT50's Ethernet Port (LAN) or the VT50's WiFi (which is built-in unlike the VT30's which had an external dongle).....

Do you have your VT50 on your home network (connected to a router / access point)?
post #10604 of 12498
Quote:
Originally Posted by dogbertok View Post

Just got my new 65"VT50 delivered. Had the white glove inside delivery. They opened the box, plugged it in and bzzzzzzzz, bzzzzzzzzz, no picture did this for 5 - 10 seconds everytime. I of course did not accept it and have to wait for a replacement. I guess maybe 2 weeks frown.gif. My questions are this... 1) has anyone ever had something like this happen? 2) when the plug it in (no cable) what is going to show up. 3) any suggestions of what to look for once they bring new the next one. I'm a bit gun shy now, but know these things happen. The place I bought it from promptly sent me an order confirmation for the replacement after I called them so that was encouraging. Thank You!!
The screen was cracked, you probably did not notice. Inspect the new one as you did the cracked one.
Reply
Reply
post #10605 of 12498
Would someone please cut and paste d-nice's setting for the 55vt50, I just can't seem to find them, yes I did a search. Sorry for being a gump about this matter.
post #10606 of 12498
you will most likely need to join the Hi-Def Junkies forum for the settings....
post #10607 of 12498
Quote:
Originally Posted by tmp0404 View Post

Would someone please cut and paste d-nice's setting for the 55vt50, I just can't seem to find them, yes I did a search. Sorry for being a gump about this matter.

They are not on this site; he posts them on another web site. To assist in the setup of my 55VT50, I created this document from the post on the site:

Panasonic VT50 Series Picture Settings - HighDefJunkies.com (D-Nice) - 2012-03-11.docx 23k .docx file
Edited by giomania - 3/4/13 at 5:39am
post #10608 of 12498
Thank you so much giomania, dowloaded and saved the word document you provided. I'll also join hidefjunkies as mentioned. I'm really enjoying the set, don't want do jinx myself but I've had no ir, but I'm still cautious about what I watch and no fan buzz. I have the set about a month now, and just ordered the low end panny 3d blu-ray player, some samsung glasses and top gun and avatar 3d movies. This will keep me busy during the weekend. Again, appreciate all of your help.
post #10609 of 12498
hey guys... i just unpacked my 65vt50 last night and it is running break in slides as we speak. I feel like all i've done is sift through these threads trying to learn as much as I could about the specs and how to make the most of it. I have a couple quick (i hope) questions I haven't been able to find so far, which mainly have to do with streaming wirelessly from my PC with an Apple Airport Extreme (not dual band). I know a 13GB 1080p 3d mkv is a lot to ask of a wifi network

1. Ethernet vs Wifi - The PC will have to remain wifi, but the TV is right next to my router. I figured it would be best to go hardwired when I can, but not sure if the VT50 is gigabit ethernet or if I'm better off with n wifi?
2. Would it be better just to use a portable hard drive connected to the TV via USB? (I have a USB 3.0 drive, but i don't think the VT50 is USB 3.0)
3. The other option is to upgrade the router to the new dual band and may as well include a hard drive to network the content... thoughts?

Regarding the content itself... I'm assuming .mkv files are ideal, but there are so many different audio versions out there and I don't know which the VT50 will be able to handle. I will not be using a receiver/sound system for now (relax, it's on my list... i just shelled out some serious coin for a top notch TV)

Thanks for your help, people! (not to mention all the other info i've found in here before, too!!!)
post #10610 of 12498
Hoping someone can do a simple confirmation for me. My first new Plasma as well as "real" HDTV, the 2012 - 55" VT50.

QUESTION/ISSUE:

I SEE, about a 1/4" difference between the viewable pixel area and the very edge of the TV's black bezel, on all four sides. Like a non-viewable "area border", between the two. Wondering if this is NORMAL?

You of course have to be up close, and in my case I'm using a flashlight to see where the image ends, offset to the bezel/hard plastic TV frame itself, as from any distance it's hard to see this "border" with NO active pixels. I've read the manual, and experimented.

On ALL inputs, HDMI, as well as running slide show. I'm setup with with 1080P, on "FULL", and in the appropriate preset I have the "pixel orbiter" = "OFF", as well as "HD SIZE" = 2 (100% Scan).

Even when I play with the "HD SIZE" setting, no matter the choice I always get this four side border. At first I just assumed this was they way these were manufactured, but now I figured I'd ask that own this unit, in case I'm missing some setting?

Thanks!
post #10611 of 12498
I am new to the plasma tv world. I bought the 55vt50 and started watching out of the box for around 30hrs since I have never heard of panel prep. I noticed that when I was watching soccer I still got a lot of motion blur when the ball was kicked and sometimes with the players running. I had motion smoother off. I am using the break in slides now from DNice for the rest of the 100 prep and then using the DNice settings after that. Will this help with the motion also? I bought the plasma mainly to watch sports and movies. I do realize that getting rid of all motion blur may be unrealistic and probably due to the feed from some tv stations. Thanks in advance.
post #10612 of 12498
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mactavish View Post

Hoping someone can do a simple confirmation for me. My first new Plasma as well as "real" HDTV, the 2012 - 55" VT50.

QUESTION/ISSUE:

I SEE, about a 1/4" difference between the viewable pixel area and the very edge of the TV's black bezel, on all four sides. Like a non-viewable "area border", between the two. Wondering if this is NORMAL?

You of course have to be up close, and in my case I'm using a flashlight to see where the image ends, offset to the bezel/hard plastic TV frame itself, as from any distance it's hard to see this "border" with NO active pixels. I've read the manual, and experimented.

On ALL inputs, HDMI, as well as running slide show. I'm setup with with 1080P, on "FULL", and in the appropriate preset I have the "pixel orbiter" = "OFF", as well as "HD SIZE" = 2 (100% Scan).

Even when I play with the "HD SIZE" setting, no matter the choice I always get this four side border. At first I just assumed this was they way these were manufactured, but now I figured I'd ask that own this unit, in case I'm missing some setting?

Thanks!

This is the way the panel is manufactured. Regardless of Screen Format or HD Size, there will always be a slim section between the frame and the active pixels all the way around.

You are going through the normal first look analysis that most of us have gone through. I know I asked the same way back when smile.gif
post #10613 of 12498
Quote:
Originally Posted by gamecockmed View Post

I am new to the plasma tv world. I bought the 55vt50 and started watching out of the box for around 30hrs since I have never heard of panel prep. I noticed that when I was watching soccer I still got a lot of motion blur when the ball was kicked and sometimes with the players running. I had motion smoother off. I am using the break in slides now from DNice for the rest of the 100 prep and then using the DNice settings after that. Will this help with the motion also? I bought the plasma mainly to watch sports and movies. I do realize that getting rid of all motion blur may be unrealistic and probably due to the feed from some tv stations. Thanks in advance.

Just a quick question to clear one potential issue. Are you watching an international broadast of a soccer match? I notice when I'm watching EPL or European leagues from here in the states the picture suffers. A U.S. broadcast (MLS) looks great and doesn't show this sub-par picture.
post #10614 of 12498
Quote:
Originally Posted by scirica View Post

This is the way the panel is manufactured. Regardless of Screen Format or HD Size, there will always be a slim section between the frame and the active pixels all the way around.

You are going through the normal first look analysis that most of us have gone through. I know I asked the same way back when smile.gif

THANKS! Just wanted everyone to know I was "PAYING" attention! smile.gif Now I can finally take a nap..........
post #10615 of 12498
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jive_Turkey View Post

hey guys... i just unpacked my 65vt50 last night and it is running break in slides as we speak. I feel like all i've done is sift through these threads trying to learn as much as I could about the specs and how to make the most of it. I have a couple quick (i hope) questions I haven't been able to find so far, which mainly have to do with streaming wirelessly from my PC with an Apple Airport Extreme (not dual band). I know a 13GB 1080p 3d mkv is a lot to ask of a wifi network

1. Ethernet vs Wifi - The PC will have to remain wifi, but the TV is right next to my router. I figured it would be best to go hardwired when I can, but not sure if the VT50 is gigabit ethernet or if I'm better off with n wifi?
2. Would it be better just to use a portable hard drive connected to the TV via USB? (I have a USB 3.0 drive, but i don't think the VT50 is USB 3.0)
3. The other option is to upgrade the router to the new dual band and may as well include a hard drive to network the content... thoughts?

Regarding the content itself... I'm assuming .mkv files are ideal, but there are so many different audio versions out there and I don't know which the VT50 will be able to handle. I will not be using a receiver/sound system for now (relax, it's on my list... i just shelled out some serious coin for a top notch TV)

Thanks for your help, people! (not to mention all the other info i've found in here before, too!!!)
I couldn't get streaming to work with 50mb over wifi. Don't think the TV can power a portable HD so you need a powered one. Pretty sure. I just converted to mp4 which preserved the video and audio codecs and plugged the HD into my ps3.
post #10616 of 12498
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mactavish View Post

CANNOT RUN JPEG SLIDESHOW!


On the Mac, I am able to temporarily view "invisible" files, and there are NO invisible JPEGS, but I've even tried deleting two of the three invisible MAC files (all Macs have these in every folder) from the same and only folder with the photos on the USB stick, (you can not delete the invisible trash file). This did NOT work.

It is a Mac thang. The Mac creates metadata files separate from the images. You need a PC. Delete the extra files and you'll be fine.
post #10617 of 12498
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jive_Turkey View Post

hey guys... i just unpacked my 65vt50 last night and it is running break in slides as we speak. I feel like all i've done is sift through these threads trying to learn as much as I could about the specs and how to make the most of it. I have a couple quick (i hope) questions I haven't been able to find so far, which mainly have to do with streaming wirelessly from my PC with an Apple Airport Extreme (not dual band). I know a 13GB 1080p 3d mkv is a lot to ask of a wifi network

1. Ethernet vs Wifi - The PC will have to remain wifi, but the TV is right next to my router. I figured it would be best to go hardwired when I can, but not sure if the VT50 is gigabit ethernet or if I'm better off with n wifi?
2. Would it be better just to use a portable hard drive connected to the TV via USB? (I have a USB 3.0 drive, but i don't think the VT50 is USB 3.0)
3. The other option is to upgrade the router to the new dual band and may as well include a hard drive to network the content... thoughts?

Regarding the content itself... I'm assuming .mkv files are ideal, but there are so many different audio versions out there and I don't know which the VT50 will be able to handle. I will not be using a receiver/sound system for now (relax, it's on my list... i just shelled out some serious coin for a top notch TV)

Thanks for your help, people! (not to mention all the other info i've found in here before, too!!!)

1. I would hardwire if possible. I think it is gigabit, but you'll know for sure when you plug it in.
2. a portable drive would need its own power supply.
3. though not familiar myself, there are other devices out there that can serve as dedicated source servers. You might want to go that route since the Pannys don't decode all the known universe of formats.
Edited by weedeater - 2/28/13 at 4:39pm
post #10618 of 12498
Quote:
Originally Posted by tmp0404 View Post

Would someone please cut and paste d-nice's setting for the 55vt50, I just can't seem to find them, yes I did a search. Sorry for being a gump about this matter.

you can just google following:

D-Nice Reference Settings
post #10619 of 12498
Quote:
Originally Posted by gamecockmed View Post

I do realize that getting rid of all motion blur may be unrealistic and probably due to the feed from some tv stations.
All cable and satellite boxes compress their signal, some, more than others. Generally, the more compression, the more chance of motion blur. If you watch a good Blue Ray soccer movie, you shouldn't see any.
post #10620 of 12498
Quote:
Originally Posted by weedeater View Post

It is a Mac thang. The Mac creates metadata files separate from the images. You need a PC. Delete the extra files and you'll be fine.

Thanks, but I don't need a PC, after much research, these are "invisible" files, not "hidden" files and can only be deleted via Unix commands, "Terminal" on the Mac. If anyone runs across this, and you will if you use a Mac, then you can spend lots of time learning Unix commands for terminal on OSX, but be careful, or you could try an inexpensive app called "BlueHarvest", that is designed to remove these kind of files and more. After my homework, I was then able to play photo files, with no "ghost" files showing in the USB folders.
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