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Official Panasonic VT50 owners thread - Page 371

post #11101 of 13486
My setup is STB>AVR>TV. HDMI from STB to AVR and hdmi from AVR to TV. Quite frankly when I first started reading about ARC I thought when would you use that and kind of just ignored what I read about it. Then when I watched the movie yesterday it dawned on me what it was all about.
post #11102 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickster View Post

My setup is STB>AVR>TV. HDMI from STB to AVR and hdmi from AVR to TV. Quite frankly when I first started reading about ARC I thought when would you use that and kind of just ignored what I read about it. Then when I watched the movie yesterday it dawned on me what it was all about.
You can struggle with ARC or run a digital optical cable from tv to avr and be done with it.
post #11103 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickster View Post

My setup is STB>AVR>TV. HDMI from STB to AVR and hdmi from AVR to TV. Quite frankly when I first started reading about ARC I thought when would you use that and kind of just ignored what I read about it. Then when I watched the movie yesterday it dawned on me what it was all about.
I've done neither, but I agree with James. :wink.gif
post #11104 of 13486
Got my set Calibrated the other day by Jeff at Accucal. He did a great job, it looks awesome now!!! Also found out that my Harmen Kardon AVR 2650 was not doing a good job passing the signal through and had to use my Oppo to bypass the video signal right to the TV. Here's a PDF of the calibration. Let me know what you guys think AccuCal Video Report.pdf 464k .pdf file
post #11105 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

You can struggle with ARC or run a digital optical cable from tv to avr and be done with it.
First of all. Make sure your hdmi is arc capable. All are not. You may have to turn the function on in your receiver. I have to go into my onkyo and turn arc on. Once it's on, audio comes out the receiver once I switch it to my tv/cd mode on the receiver. Take a look at the receiver manual. Not all receivers are arc capable.ay have to run a separate digital line to the receiver if that is the case.
post #11106 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by pwrjnky View Post

First of all. Make sure your hdmi is arc capable. All are not. You may have to turn the function on in your receiver. I have to go into my onkyo and turn arc on. Once it's on, audio comes out the receiver once I switch it to my tv/cd mode on the receiver. Take a look at the receiver manual. Not all receivers are arc capable.ay have to run a separate digital line to the receiver if that is the case.
I have ARC capable everything and when I hooked it up it worked when it wanted to. May be handshake issues but it isnt worth my time to diagnose it when I can run an optical cable and accomplish the same thing. I already had the cable in the closet. 5 minutes later the issue was resolved.
post #11107 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by bstudey01 View Post

Got my set Calibrated the other day by Jeff (Jeff Meier is UMR at AVS) at Accucal. He did a great job, it looks awesome now!!! Also found out that my Harmen Kardon AVR 2650 was not doing a good job passing the signal through and had to use my Oppo to bypass the video signal right to the TV. Here's a PDF of the calibration. Let me know what you guys think AccuCal Video Report.pdf 464k .pdf file
Thanks for your calibration report. I've added it to the flat panel (post # 2) lists in the thread that's linked in the signature area at the bottom of my post.
post #11108 of 13486
post #11109 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by bstudey01 View Post

Got my set Calibrated the other day by Jeff at Accucal. He did a great job, it looks awesome now!!! Also found out that my Harmen Kardon AVR 2650 was not doing a good job passing the signal through and had to use my Oppo to bypass the video signal right to the TV. Here's a PDF of the calibration. Let me know what you guys think AccuCal Video Report.pdf 464k .pdf file

I like what he did with the grayscale by having it 1-2% on the blue side. For whatever reason, when it'd dead on, people look a little too yellow red.

Looks like you also picked up some brightness.

You wouldn't happen to know what size patterns he was using?
post #11110 of 13486
I have a question about the isf day/night modes. Does your tv change modes automatically at a certain time or do have to change it manually from day to night?
post #11111 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by pwrjnky View Post

I have a question about the isf day/night modes. Does your tv change modes automatically at a certain time or do have to change it manually from day to night?

Manually.

In case you don't know, the ISF memories have to be activated by someone with the correct software. It doesn't come from the factory with them active.
post #11112 of 13486
Ahhhh. That's what I wanted to know. Thanks.
post #11113 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Thanks for your calibration report. I've added it to the flat panel (post # 2) lists in the thread that's linked in the signature area at the bottom of my post.

I don't believe I ever shared my Jeff Meier calibration report. Here it is... AccuCal Calibration Report scirica.pdf 464k .pdf file
post #11114 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by bstudey01 View Post

Original remote got it working, thanks!! Used the wipe for the first time. Only IR I see is the "Menu" logo from the TV. Have about 200hrs on it Wipe removed most of it within the fist 5 minutes so I'm please with it.
Thanks
Brian

Great - figured you might have the same glitch I was having. For some reason that one and only menu is twitchy and one button press on the 650 translates as 2 presses to the tv. Kind of funny actually biggrin.gif
post #11115 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimP View Post

I like what he did with the grayscale by having it 1-2% on the blue side. For whatever reason, when it'd dead on, people look a little too yellow red.

Looks like you also picked up some brightness.

You wouldn't happen to know what size patterns he was using?

Are you suggesting he intentionally calibrated it off 'true'?
post #11116 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by mo949 View Post

Are you suggesting he intentionally calibrated it off 'true'?

I believe there are calibrators that are "mechanical" in nature and can bring your set close to perfect 6500k and get the CMS graphs to also hit their marks. But then there are those calibrators that bring some "art" to the science based on years of experience and bring that to their process. I know Jeff (UMR) is one such individual. It is up to you to decide which direction to go. Personally, I'd like to have a "perfect" technical calibration to have as a reference against my current calibration. I may have that some time this summer.
post #11117 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by scirica View Post

I don't believe I ever shared my Jeff Meier calibration report. Here it is... AccuCal Calibration Report scirica.pdf 464k .pdf file

My post-calibration report from Jeff looks pretty close to yours, if I remember it correctly. I'll post the file tonight when I get home.
post #11118 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by scirica View Post

I believe there are calibrators that are "mechanical" in nature and can bring your set close to perfect 6500k and get the CMS graphs to also hit their marks. But then there are those calibrators that bring some "art" to the science based on years of experience and bring that to their process. I know Jeff (UMR) is one such individual. It is up to you to decide which direction to go. Personally, I'd like to have a "perfect" technical calibration to have as a reference against my current calibration. I may have that some time this summer.

I find that interesting. The statement about a 'dead on' calibration appearing too yellow and red was one I had heard in a similar context before. (excepting panel variation - which I know is assuming away a lot) The Dnice reference settings that I like so much many found to be too yellow or too red. Maybe no correlation, but interesting. I tried MNC's specific Dnice settings and my wife and I could barely barely discern the difference between them and the 'reference' settings. But we ended up sticking with the 'reference' since the other ones appeared a bit too blue and we thought the sunsets should appear a bit more yellow (on the screen we paused on) which the 'reference' settings provided. Of course, panel variation can explain everything, but it does seem like something more is going on when a couple of different people mention the same observation.

I think I'd prefer 'dead on' as well, but not enough info.
post #11119 of 13486
Hello everyone,

I about to buy the VT55. I was going to purchase my mount from Parts Express. I've bought several in the past and they're a great value.

My question is, can I buy a mount that brings the TV close to the wall? Or will that not work because of the power cord?

Anyone with experience on this? What mounts do you recommend? I don't need a tilt, fixed is fine.

Thanks
Dan
post #11120 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by dftkell View Post

Hello everyone,

I about to buy the VT55. I was going to purchase my mount from Parts Express. I've bought several in the past and they're a great value.

My question is, can I buy a mount that brings the TV close to the wall? Or will that not work because of the power cord?

Anyone with experience on this? What mounts do you recommend? I don't need a tilt, fixed is fine.

Thanks
Dan
The power cord is flush with the back.
post #11121 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

The power cord is flush with the back.

I disagree - the power cord plug on my 55" VT50 stands proud of the back panel about 3/8" when clipped in place. For that reason, the installer had to space my Salamander Synergy flat panel mount off the back panel with spacers, because the cross bracket wouldn't clear the power cord.

There is one other stupid design feature I found - why the heck did they recess the mounting threads below the surface of the back panel? I had washers all ready to fill the cup to make it flush with the back panel, but the installers didn't use them. After tightening the bracket bolts, we had to remove them to adjust the brackets. I saw what I was trying to avoid with the washers, the cups were deformed as the bolts pulled the mount as they were torqued in place. BTW, I used a 1/4" deci-newton meter torque wrench with a standard torque value for an M8 X 1.25 bolt, and it still deformed the cups! No damage to the set, but irritating nonetheless.

Cheers,
Paul
post #11122 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

The power cord is flush with the back.

I disagree - the power cord plug on my 55" VT50 stands proud of the back panel about 3/8" when clipped in place. For that reason, the installer had to space my Salamander Synergy flat panel mount off the back panel with spacers, because the cross bracket wouldn't clear the power cord.

There is one other stupid design feature I found - why the heck did they recess the mounting threads below the surface of the back panel? I had washers all ready to fill the cup to make it flush with the back panel, but the installers didn't use them. After tightening the bracket bolts, we had to remove them to adjust the brackets. I saw what I was trying to avoid with the washers, the cups were deformed as the bolts pulled the mount as they were torqued in place. BTW, I used a 1/4" deci-newton meter torque wrench with a standard torque value for an M8 X 1.25 bolt, and it still deformed the cups! No damage to the set, but irritating nonetheless.

Cheers,
Paul
post #11123 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

The power cord is flush with the back.

I disagree - the power cord plug on my 55" VT50 stands proud of the back panel about 3/8" when clipped in place. For that reason, the installer had to space my Salamander Synergy flat panel mount off the back panel with spacers, because the cross bracket wouldn't clear the power cord.

There is one other stupid design feature I found - why the heck did they recess the mounting threads below the surface of the back panel? I had washers all ready to fill the cup to make it flush with the back panel, but the installers didn't use them. After tightening the bracket bolts, we had to remove them to adjust the brackets. I saw what I was trying to avoid with the washers, the cups were deformed as the bolts pulled the mount as they were torqued in place. BTW, I used a 1/4" deci-newton meter torque wrench with a standard torque value for an M8 X 1.25 bolt, and it still deformed the cups! No damage to the set, but irritating nonetheless.

Cheers,
Paul
post #11124 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickster View Post

I have 65VT50 and a denon 3313. I watched a movie on Netflix yesterday and I had to use the TV speakers. Is there some setting in the tv or receiver that I need to set.

I had this problem with my 4311 and I just had to set HDMI control to on in my receiver, You also have to make sure you are using the ARC capable HDMI input. It's HDMI 2 on my 65vt50. Hope that helps!
post #11125 of 13486
I stand corrected. The power cord is not perfectly flush. But it should not interfere with 99% of wall mounts.
post #11126 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by scirica View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Thanks for your calibration report. I've added it to the flat panel (post # 2) lists in the thread that's linked in the signature area at the bottom of my post.

I don't believe I ever shared my Jeff Meier calibration report. Here it is... AccuCal Calibration Report scirica.pdf 464k .pdf file
The lists I've collected are about owner responses to their professional calibrations. I haven't made it a point to collect the charts and tables that are produced by the calibrator. redface.gif
post #11127 of 13486
I ordered from Abes of Maine, and it is being shipped to me. If I find that Best Buy will somehow let me grab one for around $1800, is it easy to cancel with Abes of Maine? I went with the PayPal's Bill Me Later service.
post #11128 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by AVSNoobie View Post

Quick request. Many of you have suggested SpectraCal's Calman software for calibrating the VT50. What Meters do you use when you are doing your own calibrations? Are they expensive? I noticed that Spectracal has a sale going on with both the meter and software for $150.

Those of you in the know, is this worth it? Also can an inexperienced Noob set this up through the ethernet and get it right with the Autocal feature?

http://store.spectracal.com/consumer/c3.html


I looked at this video for the 4.2 version controlling the VT30 series. Is it really as easy as this?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-mwphqjqcsg

Thanks.

Calman 5 is the current version and if you look at their website while a bit confusing it seems for that price you don't get "automation", but a tutorial instead. Seems you have to spend twice as much to get those features.
post #11129 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

I stand corrected. The power cord is not perfectly flush. But it should not interfere with 99% of wall mounts.

Good to know I'n not one of the 99 Percenters!!biggrin.gif!
post #11130 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

The lists I've collected are about owner responses to their professional calibrations. I haven't made it a point to collect the charts and tables that are produced by the calibrator. redface.gif

My mistake! I know that I posted about Jeff's calibration of my set a long time ago but never saw you mention you had included it. It may be there.
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