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Official Panasonic VT50 owners thread - Page 410

post #12271 of 13474
thanks chunon. I am I am. Last night was the second time I got to enjoy them and they are just spectactular! Now I wish I didn't have to be in dayton/cincinnati next week lol
post #12272 of 13474
Quote:
Originally Posted by Omni009 View Post

So how much difference do you feel there was between a D-Nice calibrated set and just using his settings? Does it look Blacker? More shadow detail? Is color noticeably better? I'm pretty pleased with just his settings so far.

Hi Omni. So the biggest difference is in color details. Not just vivid colors, but things like window panes, flesh tones, water - all the complex objects that take color precision to reproduce faithfully. Primary colors are of course gorgeous!

It is not blacker as you can see from the luminance values on the calibration charts - the same. Shadow detail I haven't been able to really say I can see things I couldn't see before. However, there's a consistency now with how black transitions to gray so it adds more 'credibility' to the shadows.

I'm very happy with my results. I recommend the experience onwards if you have money to spare on these types of things. The tv performs very well even with just online settings. I'd say the improvement was somewhere around 15% if I had to quantify it - to me that adds value. If your strapped, or have other plans for your $, then it may not make sense to.......different folks different strokes.
post #12273 of 13474
Quote:
Originally Posted by mo949 View Post

gadgtfreek and SillySally.

Since you guys know this stuff. Are the problems with 'panel brightness high' ones that could be overcome from an external 3D LUT processor? Or are they different than that?

No a 3D LUT or any processor that I know of can not over come the sweet spot light output peak. This is caused by how the display is designed and what its limitations are.

There is noting wrong with somewhat going outside of the box to meat your needs its all a mater of give and take, that is where a very good pro earns his/her money. smile.gif

ss

Added.
Look at your Y values from before and after on the charts from your night D-Nice calibration, that tells you what I am talking about sweet spot's. And that night ISF calibration is as close to perfect as you will ever see. cool.gif
Edited by sillysally - 5/21/13 at 12:14pm
post #12274 of 13474
Quote:
Originally Posted by mo949 View Post

thanks chunon. I am I am. Last night was the second time I got to enjoy them and they are just spectactular! Now I wish I didn't have to be in dayton/cincinnati next week lol

Oh come on dude, Dayton/Cincinnati rocks my friend smile.gif We have very cold beer !
post #12275 of 13474
Quote:
Originally Posted by mo949 View Post

Hi Omni. So the biggest difference is in color details. Not just vivid colors, but things like window panes, flesh tones, water - all the complex objects that take color precision to reproduce faithfully. Primary colors are of course gorgeous!

It is not blacker as you can see from the luminance values on the calibration charts - the same. Shadow detail I haven't been able to really say I can see things I couldn't see before. However, there's a consistency now with how black transitions to gray so it adds more 'credibility' to the shadows.

I'm very happy with my results. I recommend the experience onwards if you have money to spare on these types of things. The tv performs very well even with just online settings. I'd say the improvement was somewhere around 15% if I had to quantify it - to me that adds value. If your strapped, or have other plans for your $, then it may not make sense to.......different folks different strokes.

You realize there is no turning back now right ? You've taken the plunge nothing less than calibration perfection will do smile.gif
post #12276 of 13474
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by mo949 View Post

thanks chunon. I am I am. Last night was the second time I got to enjoy them and they are just spectactular! Now I wish I didn't have to be in dayton/cincinnati next week lol

Oh come on dude, Dayton/Cincinnati rocks my friend smile.gif We have very cold beer !

Lol. I'll make sure to warm it backup in the mini fridge biggrin.gif

And yes I've crossed over.... Watching tv anywhere else is going to be challenging.
post #12277 of 13474
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

You realize there is no turning back now right ? You've taken the plunge nothing less than calibration perfection will do smile.gif

Yep, not to mention that will get my wife to stop yelling "Stop messing with the TV! It looks fine!" tongue.gif

So overall I'd say this is my official review of the 65VT50 with proper settings..."No - no words. No words to describe it. Poetry...They should've sent a poet. So beautiful. So beautiful... I had no idea!"
post #12278 of 13474
very familiar....contact?
post #12279 of 13474
Quote:
Originally Posted by mo949 View Post

gadgtfreek and SillySally.

Since you guys know this stuff. Are the problems with 'panel brightness high' ones that could be overcome from an external 3D LUT processor? Or are they different than that?

Not sure on that one. I have not even messed with high on the VT50 nor have I experimented with any 3D lut equipment, but on the GT30 high made color decoding/tracking a mess. I'd assume smile.gif a lut box would correct the issues out, but there certain things it can't fix if you over drive then panel.
post #12280 of 13474
Quote:
Originally Posted by mo949 View Post

Lol. I'll make sure to warm it backup in the mini fridge biggrin.gif

And yes I've crossed over.... Watching tv anywhere else is going to be challenging.

Welcome to the dark side smile.gif
post #12281 of 13474
Got to throw on Lawrence of Arabia (restored blu ray) last night. Is it just me, or is this a very "noisy" movie at times visually? Some scenes had lots of what looked like excessive grain or something in some of the desert scenes early in the movie. Also the shot of the slow sunrise looked a bit disappointing with lots of noise & such. But other shots looked absolutely pristine so maybe it's just the film. First time I watched it with my new ausio as well, and I'm guessing it's normal that almost all of it except the music parts seems to be coming from the center channel. Had to do a bit of turn up, turn down...seems like I'm constantly tweeking the volume on my center in any case.

Still in love with this set though! I know Lawrence of Arabia is a 4K transfer, so I can't wait to see what Alien will look like too.
post #12282 of 13474
Quote:
Originally Posted by Omni009 View Post

Got to throw on Lawrence of Arabia (restored blu ray) last night. Is it just me, or is this a very "noisy" movie at times visually?
There was a major restoration done on Lawrence a few years ago. I don't follow that kind of thing, but as I recall the film stock had been allowed to deteriorate badly. It may be a miracle that it looks as good as it does.

The studios may be hell on copy protection, but in the past they were slobs taking care of their product once the main theater run was completed.
post #12283 of 13474
Wow. This dnice cal is amazing. The night mode ~25ftl is my favorite. I've never truly enjoyed having every light off before now. Having zero eye strain and seeing everything is awesome. I use the day mode as my lights on mode. Very happy he just figured me out for me.
post #12284 of 13474
Quote:
Originally Posted by mo949 View Post

Wow. This dnice cal is amazing. The night mode ~25ftl is my favorite. I've never truly enjoyed having every light off before now. Having zero eye strain and seeing everything is awesome. I use the day mode as my lights on mode. Very happy he just figured me out for me.

Any idea what size windows he uses ? Just wanted to compare apples to apples smile.gif
post #12285 of 13474
so no I didn't ask, but I did see the window and it appeared to be about 12-14 inches diagonal and I'm guessing the percentage relates to the area of the screen. Using 14 inches and figuring out the area based on a 16:9 ratio results in area of 83.7 square inches. 65 inches @ 16:9 is 1804.3 square inches. 83.7 / 1804.3 is about 5%.

Does 5% sound reasonable? sorry I don't have any other answer and I know my guesstimate is really rough.

just so i understand better, for such a low ftl where presumably ABL isn't around for much, what would the difference be if the window were say 10% vis a vis 5%?
post #12286 of 13474
Quote:
Originally Posted by mo949 View Post

so no I didn't ask, but I did see the window and it appeared to be about 12-14 inches diagonal and I'm guessing the percentage relates to the area of the screen. Using 14 inches and figuring out the area based on a 16:9 ratio results in area of 83.7 square inches. 65 inches @ 16:9 is 1804.3 square inches. 83.7 / 1804.3 is about 5%.

Does 5% sound reasonable? sorry I don't have any other answer and I know my guesstimate is really rough.

just so i understand better, for such a low ftl where presumably ABL isn't around for much, what would the difference be if the window were say 10% vis a vis 5%?

Wow that's some calculation smile.gif I was just curious to see if your 25ftl was in comparison to my 41ftl for night mode, can ia ask the what vicinity your contrast is set at 60 to 70 ?
post #12287 of 13474
now that one I do know off the top of my head biggrin.gif

my contrast is 78 in night and 96 in day. Also, my panel is the 65 which I believe puts out less light than the smaller panels when set at similar values.
post #12288 of 13474
Quote:
Originally Posted by mo949 View Post

now that one I do know off the top of my head biggrin.gif

my contrast is 78 in night and 96 in day. Also, my panel is the 65 which I believe puts out less light than the smaller panels when set at similar values.

Okay that helps my night mode is probably a tad brighter but really the diff between night and day the 10ftl is not readily apparent to me. I have really started to just watch and enjoy my set still amazed on a pretty regular basis, definitely a keeper for years to come smile.gif
post #12289 of 13474
Yes, amazing tv and very customizable to what we want. tbh when I switch modes - the instant I do is not really that different looking between 25 - 35ftl. If I turn off all the lights though and watch at 35ftl for a few moments and then switch over to 25, I can feel my eyes relax significantly though, like this tension just melts away - my wife is ultra sensitive which is why I've never really gotten to turn off the bias lighting while watching except on 3d flicks, but this last week I have been and she isn't complaining. Come to think of it, my ideal tv might have 3 modes now - lights on, lights off, and day/sun through the windows mode smile.gif
post #12290 of 13474
Quote:
Originally Posted by mo949 View Post

Yes, amazing tv and very customizable to what we want. tbh when I switch modes - the instant I do is not really that different looking between 25 - 35ftl. If I turn off all the lights though and watch at 35ftl for a few moments and then switch over to 25, I can feel my eyes relax significantly though, like this tension just melts away - my wife is ultra sensitive which is why I've never really gotten to turn off the bias lighting while watching except on 3d flicks, but this last week I have been and she isn't complaining. Come to think of it, my ideal tv might have 3 modes now - lights on, lights off, and day/sun through the windows mode smile.gif

Mo: What are you using for bias lighting? I found some "warm" white LED strips and set that up a while ago, but I find my eyes are just sensitive to the slight flicker of LED. Like you, I feel no need for the bias lighting after my last calibration. Wonderful panel!
post #12291 of 13474
Hey their Scirica, long time no see buddy - must mean you are enjoying some good tv wink.gif

So I'm using these http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/20119418/ and have it hooked up to my smarthup so its on remote control like the rest of my room lights. The reason we chose those is because we could put one vertically on either side and then 2 horizontally towards the middle to make a halo effect. the reason we put the two horizontal ones towards the middle was so we could also see light spill out below the tv, when we put it on top it kind of looked wrong not having any light spilling out betwen the stand and the tv. I've heard ppl mention the flicker but i've not seen it - i only see the normal plasma flicker, which I largely ignore. I do have my tv on a BDI 8929 stand so it sits a foot away from the wall, which does make the lighting diffuse and give it a larger halo than if I had it wall mounted....maybe that's why I don't see the flicker. We really love the warm 2700k light.

totally off topic, but if you had to buy a receiver today and money wasn't much of an issue, would you still choose the Anthem?
post #12292 of 13474
Quote:
Originally Posted by mo949 View Post

Hey their Scirica, long time no see buddy - must mean you are enjoying some good tv wink.gif


totally off topic, but if you had to buy a receiver today and money wasn't much of an issue, would you still choose the Anthem?

That's a tricky question, because if money wasn't an object I would be using extremely high-end equipment. Having said that, I could see myself sticking with Anthem but buying the Statement as my preprocessor and still running my Proceed AMP 5 for power. I am impressed with Anthem, but my purchase of the MRX 500 was because I couldn't afford the Statement D2v. Some day...
post #12293 of 13474
Good feedback, thanks! I've been wondering if I'm going to upgrade receivers this year and I really like Audyssey, but I've been hearing that the MRX probably does a better job for more typical home environments.
post #12294 of 13474
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

Any idea what size windows he uses ? Just wanted to compare apples to apples smile.gif

He won't say generally. Buzzard767 noted at the shootout they recommended 10% windows on the Panasonics and APL patterns on the Samsung. Tom Huffman also used 10% windows on his ST50, so thats what Ive been sticking with and have gotten great results.

To be honest, the readings are very small grayscale wise 10% vs 5%. I guess the only real difference is the gamma adjustments.
post #12295 of 13474
Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgtfreek View Post

He won't say generally. Buzzard767 noted at the shootout they recommended 10% windows on the Panasonics and APL patterns on the Samsung. Tom Huffman also used 10% windows on his ST50, so thats what Ive been sticking with and have gotten great results.

To be honest, the readings are very small grayscale wise 10% vs 5%. I guess the only real difference is the gamma adjustments.

I think it is more of a factor when quoting light output figures but yeah Chad uses 5% windows I am happy with the results. And contrary to what some people say here you can get an accurate cal with higher light output imo
post #12296 of 13474
I agree. Mines 36fl with 10%, so I'm sure 5 would report a little higher, and it looks great.

I've even quite using a back light and just watching movies in the dark.
post #12297 of 13474
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

Any idea what size windows he uses ? Just wanted to compare apples to apples smile.gif
I think you (or someone) had asked me the same question back in mid-April when he was at my house doing my 65VT50 and produced 40ft/L from my "day" calibration (which is all I ever use because I like it bright, so I specifically didn't even ask him to do a "night").

I didn't know what the question meant, so I couldn't provide an answer back then.

But he was out again just this weekend (during the same trip to LA as mo949 had his done) and was over to finish up with a calibration on my Sony 34XBR960 that I'd also wanted but that he didn't get to last month. So I made it my business while he was here again to now ask him "what size windows" he'd used for my VT50 calibration yielding 40ft/L (and "by the way, what does that actually mean?").

He said it was about 11.5% approximately. He has his own personally configured profile in his laptop to control his signal generator, and that's the size window he uses. He has a rubber "shade ring" that he screws on to the front of the lens of the light meter/colorimeter he uses (sorry, don't know the brand/model) and leans it right up against the glass of the TV screen so that zero light from the room or anywhere else can get into the lens for measurement, other than what comes from the TV screen itself.

He used the identical software, window size, and approach on both my 65VT50 and also on my 34XBR960, so I assume he used the same configuration for mo949 as well.

And he does FANTASTIC work! I mean, it's like "reality" on the 65VT50. You don't have the feeling you're watching TV... it's like you're looking through a window onto the scene or into the live studio where real humans are sitting, everything is so clear and perfect and naturally colored.

Personally I love 40ft/L and its look on my VT50.
post #12298 of 13474
Quote:
Originally Posted by DSperber View Post

I think you (or someone) had asked me the same question back in mid-April when he was at my house doing my 65VT50 and produced 40ft/L from my "day" calibration (which is all I ever use because I like it bright, so I specifically didn't even ask him to do a "night").

I didn't know what the question meant, so I couldn't provide an answer back then.

But he was out again just this weekend (during the same trip to LA as mo949 had his done) and was over to finish up with a calibration on my Sony 34XBR960 that I'd also wanted but that he didn't get to last month. So I made it my business while he was here again to now ask him "what size windows" he'd used for my VT50 calibration yielding 40ft/L (and "by the way, what does that actually mean?").

He said it was about 11.5% approximately. He has his own personally configured profile in his laptop to control his signal generator, and that's the size window he uses. He has a rubber "shade ring" that he screws on to the front of the lens of the light meter/colorimeter he uses (sorry, don't know the brand/model) and leans it right up against the glass of the TV screen so that zero light from the room or anywhere else can get into the lens for measurement, other than what comes from the TV screen itself.

He used the identical software, window size, and approach on both my 65VT50 and also on my 34XBR960, so I assume he used the same configuration for mo949 as well.

And he does FANTASTIC work! I mean, it's like "reality" on the 65VT50. You don't have the feeling you're watching TV... it's like you're looking through a window onto the scene or into the live studio where real humans are sitting, everything is so clear and perfect and naturally colored.

Personally I love 40ft/L and its look on my VT50.

It wasn't me but I appreciate the info and I agree an expertly calibarted VT50 is a thing of beauty smile.gif
post #12299 of 13474
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

It wasn't me but I appreciate the info and I agree an expertly calibarted VT50 is a thing of beauty smile.gif

Yeah, my VT50 was quite good in THX modes. Then I had Kevin Miller calibrate it and it stopped being quite good.

It became pretty great.
post #12300 of 13474
Quote:
Originally Posted by rogo View Post

Yeah, my VT50 was quite good in THX modes. Then I had Kevin Miller calibrate it and it stopped being quite good.

It became pretty great.

Yes I saw a couple of Kevin's cals very imprressive used one set of his settings for a while until I had my set pro calibrated, this set is truly worthy of a great cal whether it be diy or professional a lof of hidden potential imo
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