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Official Panasonic VT50 owners thread - Page 434

post #12991 of 13474
Just a word of advice for those trying to calibrate their VT50's. I was continually getting a red bias in my blacks at levels below 10% stimulus (easily visible in any black level pattern) and finding that my black level would shift such that I had to increase the brightness by as much as 5 points after calibration. With help from Calman, I discovered the problem was coming in at the 2pt grayscale adjustment which I was performing at 30% and 100%. It seems the VT50 does not respond well to the 30% adjustment. Even though grayscale was very accurate between 30% and 100% after the 2pt adjustment, levels below 10% had the obvious red bias. You would think running the 10pt grayscale afterward would fix this problem and the black level shift, but it would not. I'm still not positive why this is the case, but the solution is to either skip the 2pt grayscale adjustment entirely or just adjust the gain at 100% and skip the cut adjustment at 30%. I also found that using 5% & 100% worked fairly well for the 2pt.

A Calman tech tipped me off to the 2pt adjustment as a possible cause of my calibration problems. I suspect they have seen this before with the VT50 and may know more as to the cause. I know it's not related to the light meter because I would get a similar result with an i1 Pro and a Display3 Pro. Anyway, just happy to finally be able to move past this problem.
post #12992 of 13474
Yepp, been there done that. It's a well known issue.
post #12993 of 13474
Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgtfreek View Post

Yepp, been there done that. It's a well known issue.

Not as well known as I would have wished.

What is your approach to work around this ?
post #12994 of 13474
Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgtfreek View Post

Yepp, been there done that. It's a well known issue.



Quote:
Originally Posted by stash64 View Post

Not as well known as I would have wished.

What is your approach to work around this ?

on that model, skip high/lows or highs only - jump to 10pt.. this was first discussed around the shootout by D-Nice and Kevin..I believe Chad and a couple others came to that conclusion around the same time.. most of this type of tips and info comes from the gurus, many of the others (except other gurus) just rebroadcast.

Edit: the the = around the
Edited by turbe - 10/20/13 at 8:17pm
post #12995 of 13474
Quote:
Originally Posted by stash64 View Post

Not as well known as I would have wished.

What is your approach to work around this ?

Yepp, I found the same after I bought it and started messing around. Once you start looking hard there are a lot of posts on it, I found out after wasting my time fighting it for awhile.

Quote:
Originally Posted by turbe View Post


on that model, skip high/lows or highs only - jump to 10pt.. this was first discussed around the shootout by D-Nice and Kevin..I believe Chad and a couple others came to that conclusion around the same time.. most of this type of tips and info comes from the gurus, many of the others (except other gurus) just rebroadcast.

Edit: the the = around the

Chad did low and high 2pt on mine, slight adjustments however. He did suggest starting at 10 or 20 for low in some posting here, and I tried that before he came to my home and it helped. Also color temp normal seemed to work better when making adjustments vs warm 2. In the end I was pretty happy but felt I had a green issue, which he confirmed. Vs. his jeti, my D3 Pro had about a 4-5 dE error with green, so that answered why I was seeing more green in what was supposed to be an accurate image (green is most offensive).

At the end of the day, Chad used Warm2 and it looks phenomenal. I'll be having him back for touchups, no doubt.
post #12996 of 13474
Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgtfreek View Post

In the end I was pretty happy but felt I had a green issue, which he confirmed. Vs. his jeti, my D3 Pro had about a 4-5 dE error with green, so that answered why I was seeing more green in what was supposed to be an accurate image (green is most offensive).

At the end of the day, Chad used Warm2 and it looks phenomenal. I'll be having him back for touchups, no doubt.

I too ended up switching from Normal to Warm2 color temp. I found it required less correction both at the top and bottom when experimenting with the 2pt grayscale.

Appreciate the insight on the D3 Pro. I was using my D3 Pro just for expediency, but I also have an i1 Pro. For future adjustments, I will take the extra time to profile the D3 Pro with the i1 Pro.

One last minor issue I discovered is max'ing out saturation for Blue. Have you been seeing something similar ? if so, have you found any way to create a little extra headroom ? I may experiment with the Color control to see if it has any significant impact on saturation.
post #12997 of 13474
Profiling would be a good idea. I have not had the blue issue.
post #12998 of 13474
Little more FYI on AV Sync:

Im running HDMI 1 out of my Oppo into the VT50 for video, and HDMI 2 out to the AVR for audio. AV Sync is OFF in the AVR.

What I find is Motion Smoother off seems to match up fine, as I go to Weak I need about a 20ms adjustment (video is behind audio of course) and for Medium it works out to around 60ms. This is just using the moving bar on Spears and Munsil 2 and trying to get the bar on zero. To be honest it was hard to even see a 20ms error on normal video, but it was easy with a pattern.
post #12999 of 13474
Everyone hug your display tonight. Panny is ending plasma production in Dec for good, and we got one of the best PDP's ever made.
post #13000 of 13474
Yeah I heard that awhile ago - looks like LED is taking over (probably a lot cheaper to make). It's too bad as Plasma is still king IMHO but yeah, we got the last of them. How does the new ZT60 stand up to the VT50?
post #13001 of 13474
Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgtfreek View Post

Everyone hug your display tonight. Panny is ending plasma production in Dec for good, and we got one of the best PDP's ever made.

It is a sad day indeed frown.gif
post #13002 of 13474
Less light, better blacks. the blacks were not as large of an improvement in 2013 vs 2012, but there wasnt far left to go. 2011 to 2012 was a pretty good jump. To be honest, if you have a 30, 50 or 60 series, you are sitting nice.

And yeah, what I see is 4K and LED LCD is going to be a big push, with OLED kinda niche. LED LCD has been out there awhile, and they continue to improve it, make money off it, and make the screens larger. I like to upgrade very 2 years, but this may get slowed unless someone can make an LED LCD I like in 65+" (Cmon Panasonic), or Samsung works out their floating blacks.

IMO, Ill be watching large screen Panny LCD's closely next year to see how their 2014 models perform. I think since a lot of their resources go there now, it could be good.
post #13003 of 13474
Sony was my favorite go to brand in the CRT era and wish they would of stayed in Plasma but I have grown to love Panasonic Plasma's.Sad to see them go.mad.gif

But now that they are leaving the plasma business I will have to give Samsung Plasma's a strong look or Sony LED LCD.

Sony has a big leg up on Panasonic in regards to LCD (oled) so it might be time to come back to my first love in the future...
post #13004 of 13474
My only issue with Sony gear, is its still over priced IMO. Panasonic LCD's last year were pretty nice and competitively priced. The comments made by a Panny employee was that the engineering focus for their upcoming LED LCD's contained a plasma target. We all know LCD will probably never be "there", but its good they are using their latest plasma's as a goal for the LED LCD performance.
post #13005 of 13474
The blacks were horrible on the Panasonic LEDs last year hopefully that will be improved. They have a long way to go and some inherent flaws to overcome to get close the Plasma in terms or picture quality imo
post #13006 of 13474
Yeah, I think the IPS panels they have are good with view angles, but bad with blacks.
post #13007 of 13474
That's one of the short comings with IPS, Panasonic is way behind in the LED race imo, hopefully they can catch up fast because I like the build quality
post #13008 of 13474
Nevertheless, Ill be watching Samsung PDP next year. Im not confident there is an LCD I would want since even the XBR is now side lit. Im also not confident OLED matches these plasmas in price, reliability and size any time soon. Since Samsung has been mute, Im guessing there is one year left in PDP at least. I mean they have tons of cash and there has not been one peep about them leaving PDP.
post #13009 of 13474
Agreed if I was shopping next year I would look at a Samsung PDP
post #13010 of 13474
I know the F8500 still has a slight floating black issue, and the mll can't match VT50/60, but I think its better than LCD for someone like me...

Its hard for me not to upgrade every 2 years so 2014 will be an adventure! I can say, unlike in the past, if I get something new the VT50 is NOT being sold wink.gif
post #13011 of 13474
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

Agreed if I was shopping next year I would look at a Samsung PDP

How does the 60 series compare to the 50?
post #13012 of 13474
The ST60 does most things equal and few slightly better than the VT50 imo, the color is just a hair more accurate readings wise on the Vt50 but I haven't seen a difference in real world material. Just to clarify I am no way saying anything negative about the VT50 it was a fantastic set.
post #13013 of 13474
Quote:
Originally Posted by robnix View Post

How does the 60 series compare to the 50?

Better. Period. the ST60 is on par, perhaps better in some/most respects than the VT50.
The VT60 and ZT60 are a step above the ST60/VT50. I have a VT50 and VT60. The 60 has better PQ
The nearly doubled on/off contrast ratio gives it a depth that the VT50 can't achieve. Stunning at times!
Hope this helps?
post #13014 of 13474
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5150zx View Post

Better. Period. the ST60 is on par, perhaps better in some/most respects than the VT50.
The VT60 and ZT60 are a step above the ST60/VT50. I have a VT50 and VT60. The 60 has better PQ
The nearly doubled on/off contrast ratio gives it a depth that the VT50 can't achieve. Stunning at times!
Hope this helps?

It does - I've been weighing whether or not to pick up a VT60 and replace the VT50 with it.
post #13015 of 13474
Be careful on upgrades if you really dont need them. I went from a GT30 to a VT50, and I still stand by the fact if I hadn't sold the GT for 1200 and gotten the VT for $2500, it would have been a waste of money.

I know people like to quote numbers, and I know them backwards and forwards GT30 vs VT50, the improvement was not worth that much.
post #13016 of 13474
Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgtfreek View Post

Be careful on upgrades if you really dont need them. I went from a GT30 to a VT50, and I still stand by the fact if I hadn't sold the GT for 1200 and gotten the VT for $2500, it would have been a waste of money.

I know people like to quote numbers, and I know them backwards and forwards GT30 vs VT50, the improvement was not worth that much.

Sure - I'm only thinking about it because I can still get a good price for a 65VT50.
post #13017 of 13474
Sucks for me, my plan was VT70 and then Im done. Oh well, LOL.
post #13018 of 13474
Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgtfreek View Post

Sucks for me, my plan was VT70 and then Im done. Oh well, LOL.

Same here. I"ll most likely wait until CES is done to make a decision.
post #13019 of 13474
Yeah.

Its gonna be hard to consider a LED LCD an upgrade from this VT50, so I gotta see what Samsung is doing in plasma. It might be I just do not upgrade next year and wait it out like an old grumpy Kuro owner a few years ago.
post #13020 of 13474
Ive never owned a pc of CE gear that wasnt made anymore. Wonder what they do if it fails after a year or two and you have a warranty? Say they cant fix it? My VT50 is warrantied until Mar 2016.
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