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Official Panasonic VT50 owners thread - Page 121

post #3601 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by NateDoggg View Post

What are the best 3D glasses for this? I believe the TY-ER3D4MU are the ones we are SUPPOSED to use; but, I know someone posted on here a while back that the cheaper Samsung glasses work just as well. Any thoughts as to the best 3D glasses for the 65VT50?

I bought both the Panasonic 3D glasses and one of the cheaper $20 Samsung glasses (at a local Best Buy).
They both work fine with the Panasonic 2012 plasma sets, the Panasonic model has a built-in USB rechargeable battery, and the Samsung uses a cheap replaceable lithium coin battery.
The Samsung is a bit more flimsier and lighter, so the Panasonic model feels and looks more like regular sunglasses and is a bit more comfortable.

Its been recommended that the more expensive Panasonic 3D glasses is good for your own use, and get some of the cheaper Samsung glasses for guests/kids. smile.gif
I found some really cheap compatible lithium coin batteries for the Samsung glasses on ebay, only $1.25 for a set of five that should last a year or two probably even with frequent 3D use of them.
post #3602 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrady3324 View Post

Any issues with leaving a plasma on for a few hours with a pure black screen? My PS3 auto-shut off (stupid ps3 update changed my settings!) over night and the TV was left on with a black screen for a few hours
I would think no issues, just normal wear

No problem at all. just a few pennies to the power co.
post #3603 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joxer View Post

Its just one aspect of the 2012 Panasonic plasmas, just like their dithering of pixels only noticeable very close up to the screen, compared to other manufacturers.

I think the dithering is very noticeable on this TV especially in 3D mode. mad.gif
post #3604 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

The VT50 is comparable when it comes to Mid and High APL scenes. Watered down, that means for content like CSI Miami, The Big Bang Theory, X-Men First Class, Star Trek, MI4 Ghost Protocol, John Carter, The Avengers and Transformers movies would look very similar if not identical. One would/should see differences with content like Game of Thrones, Fringe, Sherlock Holmes A Game of Shadows, The Matrix movies, Tron Legacy, The Dark Knight, Harry Potter movies and Prometheus as they are darker movies.
APL standa for Average Picture Luminance
I agree. Coming from a local dimming LCD (LH90) low APL/MLL is better on my LH90 (well, with exception of the blooming) but mid-high APL has excellent pop on these 2012 Pannys.
post #3605 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ephman2002 View Post

Hey all -
Just received my 55" VT50 this morning and decided to re-read some of the comments on this thread for ideas/suggestions.
I purchased from Best Buy and asked about "calibration" beforehand and the rep told me this model was already calibrated. If that's the case - can someone please explain the slides/hours many of you are putting in to make your VT50 "ready"?
I am not a tech junky, but if there's a way to increase overall viewing experience I would appreciate anyone's thoughts.
I set it up quickly this morning and placed on THX Mode and it looks great.
Thanks!

The VT50 is NOT 'pre-calibrated'.
post #3606 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by rahzel View Post

I agree. Coming from a local dimming LCD (LH90) low APL/MLL is better on my LH90 (well, with exception of the blooming) but mid-high APL has excellent pop on these 2012 Pannys.

Watching one in the store, the blooming drove me nuts.
post #3607 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joxer View Post

I bought both the Panasonic 3D glasses and one of the cheaper $20 Samsung glasses (at a local Best Buy).
They both work fine with the Panasonic 2012 plasma sets, the Panasonic model has a built-in USB rechargeable battery, and the Samsung uses a cheap replaceable lithium coin battery.
The Samsung is a bit more flimsier and lighter, so the Panasonic model feels and looks more like regular sunglasses and is a bit more comfortable.
Its been recommended that the more expensive Panasonic 3D glasses is good for your own use, and get some of the cheaper Samsung glasses for guests/kids. smile.gif
I found some really cheap compatible lithium coin batteries for the Samsung glasses on ebay, only $1.25 for a set of five that should last a year or two probably even with frequent 3D use of them.

Was their any difference in 3D quality between the 2 glasses?

And, what is the model of the Samsung glasses? Think I'll buy a pair of each tomorrow and test - but don't want to get the wrong ones. Thanks.
Edited by NateDoggg - 6/28/12 at 4:38pm
post #3608 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by NateDoggg View Post

Was their any difference in 3D quality between the 2 glasses?
And, what is the model of the Samsung glasses? Think I'll buy a pair of each tomorrow and test - but don't want to get the wrong ones. Thanks.

Not that I could see. But the Panasonic is more expensive with better build quality, a more substantial frame.
But functionally they were similar or the same to me.

You can get the Samsung model at Best Buy stores for about $20, thats what I did.

400
Samsung model SSG-4100GB

Here is a good recent review of several compatible 3D glasses models including these:
http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-33199_7-57441520-221/sorta-universal-active-3d-tv-glasses-compared/?part=rss&subj=news&tag=titl
post #3609 of 13486
I wear glasses and from what I have read, it would be more comfortable to get the Panasonic 3D glasses, so I suppose I will get those then. But I just don't like the price of them compared to the Samsung ones.mad.gif
post #3610 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Famouss View Post

I wear glasses and from what I have read, it would be more comfortable to get the Panasonic 3D glasses, so I suppose I will get those then. But I just don't like the price of them compared to the Samsung ones.mad.gif

You could buy both pair from BestBuy or Amazon and return the ones you don't like?
post #3611 of 13486
Hi D-Nice,

I sent you a PM to see if you could do a calibration in the bay area while you are out here..if you still are. I also have the panning issue just watching wimbledon broadcasts this week. Please let me know if you are still in town.

Thanks
post #3612 of 13486
So, played a bunch of Halo: Reach tonight...would have played more, but still nervous about burn in, so I'm taking a lot of breaks. Anyway, the colors are so rich I find myself sometimes just looking around at the scenery and getting popped. Even riding a Ghost - the purple color is ridiculously deep. Watching regular cable right now and, again, the PQ on this thing is nuts.

Topper - I have no issues with your settings on Custom...they look great to me. I'm sure at some point I'll plug in D-Nice's when he posts them to compare.

Not hearing any buzzing or fan noise since I'm actually watching content with sound now. Again, I know there is some buzz from running the slides, and I can hear some fan noise when sound is on mute - but I don't watch **** on mute, so as long as I don't hear it while watching the TV it's a non-issue.
post #3613 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by NateDoggg View Post

So, played a bunch of Halo: Reach tonight...would have played more, but still nervous about burn in, so I'm taking a lot of breaks. Anyway, the colors are so rich I find myself sometimes just looking around at the s.
Oh you play, nice.smile.gif I was actually a competitive player in H3 and Reach for a short while and placed decently well at MLG tournaments, but its popularity has died off as of late. Nice to see some people are still playing it though. However, I could never ever play it on anything that wasn't a 22 inch monitor since they had low input lag, which was optimal in order to play at the high level. But I am sure the vt50 is perfectly fine for casual play, and I bet it looks 100x more appealing than it does compared to a crappy small monitor. Those are my .02.
post #3614 of 13486
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NateDoggg View Post

Hey - what MODE do you play in? Do you play in GAME mode? Or do you play in whatever mode you also watch TV/movies? Thanks.

I labeled the input as game but have been playing in custom mode with regular settings and orbiter on.
post #3615 of 13486
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Famouss View Post

Oh you play, nice.smile.gif I was actually a competitive player in H3 and Reach for a short while and placed decently well at MLG tournaments, but its popularity has died off as of late. Nice to see some people are still playing it though. However, I could never ever play it on anything that wasn't a 22 inch monitor since they had low input lag, which was optimal in order to play at the high level. But I am sure the vt50 is perfectly fine for casual play, and I bet it looks 100x more appealing than it does compared to a crappy small monitor. Those are my .02.

I used to win tournaments and my team was the number one team on gb back on cod4 ah the days of having no job lol... I'm just a casual gamer now been playing grfs for while now cod has bored me all relatively the same for the past 4 or 5 years.
post #3616 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaTaSTrOphiK View Post

I used to win tournaments and my team was the number one team on gb back on cod4 ah the days of having no job lol... I'm just a casual gamer now been playing grfs for while now cod has bored me all relatively the same for the past 4 or 5 years.
Ya I feel you, the only game I play quite often now is starcraft 2.
post #3617 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by azurisk View Post

I was just about to calibrate my VT50 and i discovered there are vertical bands/smudges visible on IRE 10-50 fields. From what I gathered this is DSE. It is however not visible during normal content viewing. Is this something to worry about? Do all plasma's have this to some degree or is this a fault which could get worse over time? I am not sure on whether I should try and get it fixed/swapped, as the chances of getting another with similar or worse problems is a concern. As I said I haven't noticed DSE while watching normal content.
*Edit
I posted a few pictures. These are taken at daytime. But i think it will show what i see. Will take some pictures at night, will be alot more visible.
Pictures -> http://imgur.com/a/UanNg#0

Don't think so, the banding or DSE is being caused by poor calibration.

I would start with your 100% light out put and go from there. Jeff (UMR) with his very expensive light meter ($10,000) showed me how important that setting is.

ss
Edited by sillysally - 6/28/12 at 11:35pm
post #3618 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyguyjake View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joxer View Post

Its just one aspect of the 2012 Panasonic plasmas, just like their dithering of pixels only noticeable very close up to the screen, compared to other manufacturers.

I think the dithering is very noticeable on this TV especially in 3D mode. mad.gif

All plasmas have dithering, this is just how Pulse Width Modulated display technologies work. DLP works the same way.
post #3619 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by WiFi-Spy View Post

All plasmas have dithering, this is just how Pulse Width Modulated display technologies work. DLP works the same way.

I've owned a 65" Samsung LED DLP for a few years and have never seen any dithering. Also my Aunt owns the new 92" Mit dlp and it's crystal clear, no dithering. I totally disagree. The VT50 is terribly distracting.
post #3620 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyguyjake View Post

I've owned a 65" Samsung LED DLP for a few years and have never seen any dithering. Also my Aunt owns the new 92" Mit dlp and it's crystal clear, no dithering. I totally disagree. The VT50 is terribly distracting.
I personally never notice it unless I get within a foot in all honesty. Then again all I have ever owned for the past 7 years has been plasma, so it totally looks normal to me.
post #3621 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by sillysally View Post

Don't think so, the banding or DSE is being caused by poor calibration.
I would start with your 100% light out put and go from there. Jeff (UMR) with his very expensive light meter ($10,000) showed me how important that setting is.
ss

I did set correct B/W levels. No greyscale or cms calibration done so far. If it is done by bad calibration then why do some parts of the screen do have the bands and some parts do not? Worst of it is on right side, less on left side and nothing in the middle. The smudges are visible in each of the factory screen modes. I visited 4 other shops to check my slides on them, none of them had the smudges i notice on mine. Panasonic also stated screen uniformity should be perfect no matter the content being displayed (i.e. real life content or calibration patterns). So I will try to return it for one which does not have the smudges. I think the tv is expensive enough to justify a critical view.
post #3622 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Famouss View Post

Oh you play, nice.smile.gif I was actually a competitive player in H3 and Reach for a short while and placed decently well at MLG tournaments, but its popularity has died off as of late. Nice to see some people are still playing it though. However, I could never ever play it on anything that wasn't a 22 inch monitor since they had low input lag, which was optimal in order to play at the high level. But I am sure the vt50 is perfectly fine for casual play, and I bet it looks 100x more appealing than it does compared to a crappy small monitor. Those are my .02.
I loved Reach, was never very good but Headhunter in multi-team was a blast as was the co-op campaign. I'm much more of a movie junkie but if you want to play some time my GT is ZombieWanKenobi smile.gif
post #3623 of 13486
Is there anyway to only have the orbiter enabled for certain input signals? For example, I do not want it enabled when for 1080p24 input signal (blu-ray). I am using an AVR so I only have 1 HDMI input in use on the back of the VT50
post #3624 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrady3324 View Post

Is there anyway to only have the orbiter enabled for certain input signals? For example, I do not want it enabled when for 1080p24 input signal (blu-ray). I am using an AVR so I only have 1 HDMI input in use on the back of the VT50
Set size to HD2
post #3625 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fanaticalism View Post

Set size to HD2

I know that.. but if you set to Size 2, then the oribiter is disabled when viewing regular TV..
post #3626 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrady3324 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fanaticalism View Post

Set size to HD2

I know that.. but if you set to Size 2, then the oribiter is disabled when viewing regular TV..
It's a setting that seems to apply to all inputs.
post #3627 of 13486
That is a bit annoying. Oh well
post #3628 of 13486
Do any of you guys use vivid mode? If so, what are the settings? I like my TVs to be bright and to give that pop factor. I also bought the VT50 mainly to watch sports and movies. After looking at all the preset settings I feel like the THX cinema and bright room are just too dark. Vivid seems to give me the best picture. Am I crazy?
post #3629 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by jarias2311 View Post

Do any of you guys use vivid mode? If so, what are the settings? I like my TVs to be bright and to give that pop factor. I also bought the VT50 mainly to watch sports and movies. After looking at all the preset settings I feel like the THX cinema and bright room are just too dark. Vivid seems to give me the best picture. Am I crazy?
You would be much better of using custom settings, both wmkiller and Topper have posted settings that should give your set a reasonable picture for being uncalibrated.
post #3630 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by jarias2311 View Post

Am I crazy?
Yes, but what difference does it make? wink.gif
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