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Official Panasonic VT50 owners thread - Page 131

post #3901 of 12285
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hurin View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by TopperMcFly View Post

Is it possible that it is introducing unwanted artifacts? I guess it could be. But that would seem counter intuitive.
Artifacts at 24fps and 96Hz was a well documented phenomenon with both the VT30 and VT25. My concern is that the VT50 was (until now) judged to be clear of them. I guess I'm the guy saying (sadly). . . it's not.

The Katzmaier (Cnet) review of the VT25:

we did experience some artifacts in the 1080p/24-friendly 96Hz mod

. . .

On the other hand, we were surprised to find that the VT20/25 evinced false contouring artifacts in 96Hz mode. They were relatively rare, but certainly obvious when we saw them, which was only in transitions between bright and dark areas that moved across the screen. We first noticed it in Chapter 12 (47:25), where the glow of the pods illuminating the Omaticaya council showed banding contours as opposed to the smooth gradation from light to dark seen on the other displays. Similar bands were visible in the torch Neytiri extinguishes in Chapter 11 (36:30). No adjustment we tried seemed to affect the issue, aside from switching back to 60Hz, which made the contouring much less noticeable (and no worse than on the other sets). In our view the correct cadence is worth the tradeoff for occasional contouring artifacts, so we kept the set at 96Hz for movies, but we wish we didn't have to make that decision. We also looked at the V10 from last year and saw similar contouring in 96Hz, which we missed in our initial review.

The Katzmaier (Cnet) review of the VT30:

Like the ST30 and GT30 series, the VT30 correctly handled 1080p/24 cadence in its 60Hz mode. Furthermore, we noticed the same kinds of false contouring artifacts in 96Hz mode on the VT30 that we've seen on earlier so-equipped Panasonic plasmas, like the VT25 (see that review for more details). For these reasons we decided to use 60Hz mode for our evaluations and calibration.

Finally, the VT50 review. . .

Both the 60Hz and the 96Hz mode handled 1080p/24 sources properly in my test, and this year I didn't notice any extra false-contouring artifacts when setting the TV in 96Hz mode. I did detect slight flicker in 96Hz in bright areas, for example the clouds over Brooklyn in "I Am Legend" (24:49).

In the case of the VT50 Cnet review, I assume Mr. Katzmaier may have found the subtle flickering in 96Hz distasteful enough that he didn't spend nearly as much time in it as he did with the VT30 or VT25, and thus did not have ample opportunity to notice the issue as he did in those prior two reviews.

Finally, here is an AVS thread that discusses the artifacts on the VT25 and VT30 in detail. Towards the end, there is some discussion of how/why some people may be more sensitive to this issue than others (thus accounting for why it is often not noted despite it being so starkly visible to some). In the words of one poster, the artifact is being generated by the brain, and is not physically present on the screen of the TV. Heh, lucky me. biggrin.gif

I do concur with you, as do the CNet reviews, that through some magic 60Hz is somehow panning just as smoothly (cadence-wise) as the 96Hz mode. And this has been the case since the VT30. And, that is the reason why this is not likely a deal-breaker for me. I wonder if it's actually running internally at 72Hz or otherwise performing some shenanigans to get rid of pulldown jerkiness. But hey, whatever it's doing, it's working. . . and working better than the 96Hz mode that should be superior.

In the end, I'd still love to hear some direct feedback from VT50 owners (please see my prior post about a scene in Gladiator where, if you're going to see it, it can't be missed) who are also seeing this issue. If only for peace of mind and/or confirmation that my TV isn't uniquely (or nearly so) flawed. Though I too doubt that my unit is defective due to this issue, if the 96Hz "issue" continues with this series, it's something worth documenting for its own sake (IMHO). Especially considering that the 96Hz mode is marketed as a major differential between the VT and lesser series.

Best Regards,

H

There is not much more to say here but thanks for putting the effort in to dig all that up. I agree that with 96hz being a big selling point over the lesser models, it feels like a punch in the gut. I suppose for me that the slightly better blacks and one sheet designed make it a bit more palatable. I have not had an issue as you have with 96hz mode. But if 60hz works essentially exactly the same, then what difference does it make?

Being a guy, I probably would have went with the VT anyway but shame on Panny none the less.

Thanks man

With all that said, it is reasonable to say that leaving your set in 60hz mode should be a default. Taking that out of the equation only leaves us with motion smoother when trying to clean pans up in terms of sharpness. And we all know now that leaves you with a trade off. Which is no SOE at Weak or Off but with expected judder or with SOE at Medium or High with far sharper imagery in pans.

This is a trade off with any set out there at the moment. I only question why Panny removed the 120hz high and low setting from last year as it seemed to help a bit without introducing SOE. My guess would be that they just hard coded it this year. Who knows?
post #3902 of 12285
Quote:
Originally Posted by TopperMcFly View Post

But if 60hz works essentially exactly the same, then what difference does it make?
Though it's likely imperceptible to the naked eye, 96Hz has better blacks.
Quote:
With all that said, it is reasonable to say that leaving your set in 60hz mode should be a default. Taking that out of the equation only leaves us with motion smoother when trying to clean pans up in terms of sharpness. And we all know now that leaves you with a trade off. Which is no SOE at Weak or Off but with expected judder or with SOE at Medium or High with far sharper imagery in pans.
This is a trade off with any set out there at the moment. I only question why Panny removed the 120hz high and low setting from last year as it seemed to help a bit without introducing SOE. My guess would be that they just hard coded it this year. Who knows?
Just to be clear, motion smoother has no effect on the 96Hz artifacts. Or, to be more precise, they exist whether motion smoother is enabled or disabled. . . though they look slightly different.
post #3903 of 12285
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hurin View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by TopperMcFly View Post

But if 60hz works essentially exactly the same, then what difference does it make?
Though it's likely imperceptible to the naked eye, 96Hz has better blacks.
Quote:
With all that said, it is reasonable to say that leaving your set in 60hz mode should be a default. Taking that out of the equation only leaves us with motion smoother when trying to clean pans up in terms of sharpness. And we all know now that leaves you with a trade off. Which is no SOE at Weak or Off but with expected judder or with SOE at Medium or High with far sharper imagery in pans.
This is a trade off with any set out there at the moment. I only question why Panny removed the 120hz high and low setting from last year as it seemed to help a bit without introducing SOE. My guess would be that they just hard coded it this year. Who knows?
Just to be clear, motion smoother has no effect on the 96Hz artifacts. Or, to be more precise, they exist whether motion smoother is enabled or disabled. . . though they look slightly different.

Agreed. I would not expect Motion Smoother to help with 96hz artifacts but great point about the better blacks. I forgot about that.
post #3904 of 12285
After several PM requests, here are mine again.
I have also posted these in the Settings thread.

*These are not intended as professional calibrated settings.

Picture mode Custom
Contrast 82
Brightness 54
Color 50
Tint 0
Sharpness 14
Color Temp Warm 1 (or Normal) * This is a deviation from the norm. A true calibration will be Warm 2. I can't tolerate Warm 2 due to the hit to whites.
Cats Off
Video NR Off

Aspect adjustments submenu
Screen format: Full
HD size: Size 2 (Size 1 will perform a 95% overscan. Can be good to get rid of scan lines at top of screen for sat/cable content)
H size: [grayed out]
Zoom adjustments: [grayed out]
Advanced Picture:
3D Y/C filter: Off [grayed out]
Color matrix: HD [grayed out]
These next two settings may or may not help poor content and should have little to no effect on quality content.
Block NR: Off
Mosquito NR: Off
Motion smoother:
Weak or Off: For most content. Pans will still be messy but no SOE
Medium or High: Clean Pans but with SOE. Great for animated content

1080p pure direct: On
Black level: Light
3:2 pulldown: On
24p Direct in: 60Hz * 60Hz seems to function as 96Hz does without introducing artifacts that may or may not be detected. But 96hz mode does provide slightly better blacks. So use 96hz if you do not perceive artifacts.

Pro Settings:
Color space: Normal
W/B high R: -1
W/B high G: 0
W/B high B: 0
W/B low R: 0
W/B low G: -4
W/B low B: -1

W/B detail adjustment menu: (listed as Red, Green and Blue gain, respectively)
100 IRE: -1, 0, -1
90 IRE: -2, 0, +1
80 IRE: 0, +1, -1
70 IRE: 0, 0, 0
60 IRE: 0, 0, +1
50 IRE: +1, +2, +1
40 IRE: 0, 0, -1
30 IRE: +1, -1, 0
20 IRE: +2, -0, +1
10 IRE: -1, -0, +1

Red hue: 0
Green hue: +4
Blue hue: 0
Red Saturation: -5
Green Saturation: -4
Blue Saturation: 0

Color detail adjustment menu:
Yellow hue: 0
Cyan hue: 0
Magenta hue: 0
Yellow saturation: -2
Cyan saturation: 0
Magenta saturation: 0
Red luminance: 0
Green luminance: 0
Blue luminance: 0
Yellow luminance: 0
Cyan luminance: 0
Magenta luminance: 0

Black Extension 0
Gamma adjustment 2.4
Panel Brightness Mid
Contour Emphasis Off
AGC Off

Gamma Detail Adjustment Menu
100 IRE Gain: 0
90 IRE Gain: 0
80 IRE Gain: 0
70 IRE Gain: 0
60 IRE Gain: 0
50 IRE Gain: +3
40 IRE Gain: 0
30 IRE Gain: 0
20 IRE Gain: -1
10 IRE Gain: 0
Edited by TopperMcFly - 7/8/12 at 1:39pm
post #3905 of 12285
Of the STOCK settings, anyone else find VIVID mode the best for 3D movies? I would never use VIVID for any normal viewing content; but, it seems that 3D movies are inherently darker than 2D movies, so the Custom settings (thanks to Topper) that I use are a little too dark. Watched Green Lantern 3D the other night and while it was nice in Custom mode, it looked REALLY good when I switched to VIVID. Just wonder if anyone else has experienced this.

EDIT: Oh, and Topper - just saw your re-posting of your settings. I swear you had 3:2 pulldown on AUTO originally and now you have it listed as ON. Have you changed your mind? Or is my memory faulty?
post #3906 of 12285
Another egregious example of the 96Hz artifacting. . .

96Hz, 24fps from Blu-Ray. Rome (the HBO series), episode 1 @ 47:27. . .

If you don't see 96Hz "false contouring/ghosting" in yellow and magenta, then your unit is either unaffected or your brain isn't wired to be sensitive to the phenomenon. I'm still interested in determining which.

(incidentally, even my wife sees it here, on the edge of Pompeus's face as the camera pans from his clay model to his real face)

Best,

H

P.S. I won't clog up the forums with every egregious example I find. But a few might help some others verify.
post #3907 of 12285
Quote:
Originally Posted by NateDoggg View Post

Of the STOCK settings, anyone else find VIVID mode the best for 3D movies? I would never use VIVID for any normal viewing content; but, it seems that 3D movies are inherently darker than 2D movies, so the Custom settings (thanks to Topper) that I use are a little too dark. Watched Green Lantern 3D the other night and while it was nice in Custom mode, it looked REALLY good when I switched to VIVID. Just wonder if anyone else has experienced this.

EDIT: Oh, and Topper - just saw your re-posting of your settings. I swear you had 3:2 pulldown on AUTO originally and now you have it listed as ON. Have you changed your mind? Or is my memory faulty?

I changed to On as Auto is reported as unreliable
post #3908 of 12285
Quote:
Originally Posted by TopperMcFly View Post

1080p pure direct: Off

Just out of curiosity and ignorance, why "off"?

Also, were your settings done with calibration equipment or eye-balling?

Again, no judgement, just wanna know...

Thanks for re-posting.
post #3909 of 12285
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hurin View Post

Another egregious example of the 96Hz artifacting. . .

I'm in the process of obtaining a copy of Gladiator. I should have it later tonight. And to anybody else about my possible bad HDMI 1 port. I am using an HDMI Female to HDMI Female Adapter Coupler since I don't have a long enough cable. Could this be causing the loss of the video signal? I doubt it is since it starts working as soon as I plug it into the HDMI 2 port. I'll be receiving a new 10 ft. HDMI 1.4 cable this week so I'll be able to try that out and see if the problem persists. It says on amazon "Return window will close on July 21, 2012" so I guess I have until the 21st to figure this out.

Edit: I removed my question about where in Gladiator was the problem you were talking about. I see you mention the spot in this post: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1408338/official-panasonic-vt50-owners-thread/3870#post_22197616 Now I'm wondering how to enable the 24fps/96Hz setting? It's greyed out for me.
Edited by alex179 - 7/8/12 at 11:45am
post #3910 of 12285
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hurin View Post

Hi All,
I posted a week or so ago and had all my concerns addressed save one. I'm now satisfied that my panel is not defective where black levels, buzzing, or line bleed are concerned. But I still wonder at one last thing that I asked about. A strange effect while in 24fps 96Hz mode (2D). . .
Since I made that original post, I've read this entire thread (over several evenings of bleary eyes and lots of coffee). Though there have been mentions of "judder" issues, I was only able to isolate two other posts that I'm confident are describing what I'm seeing. Here they are. . .
Here's my original description. . .
I am not in a position to try to replicate this on another TV since my old TV is a CRT-based RPTV which can't do 96Hz. So, can some folks with the Gladiator Blu-Ray (either revision will work, I own and have tried both) please try to replicate the behavior described above? The best example I have isolated is at 23 minutes, 15 seconds into the film. Watch as Marcus Aurelius stands and he moves screen right. As he does so, his face becomes a mangled mess of purple and yellow contour artifacts. You should see it before he says: "I brought the sword, nothing more." Once you hear that line, you've gone too far. smile.gif
I'm not looking to prove there is a flaw in the VT50 series. Though I'm disappointed that this behavior may keep me away from the 96Hz mode that I was coveting, it's not a deal-breaker. But with my 30-day return policy expiring soon, I would very much like to have this final concern put to rest so that I can relax and fully begin enjoying my TV without any worry (I'm nearly there!).
Incidentally, I've found that other horizontal pans look quite good. So I don't think I have an overall "judder" problem. Rather I seem to be noticing a 96Hz 24fps "false contouring" issue that I had read was unlikely to still be an issue on the VT50 (the CNet review stats that prior models' 96Hz-related artifacts were no longer evident in the VT50).
If someone (or possibly a few someones!) could please check out that Gladiator scene and report back their 96Hz/24fps findings (no motion smoothing -- wouldn't want it for blu-rays!), I'd be very grateful!
Thanks!
--H
(I was able to reproduce the behavior with both a Sony S350 and a Panasonic BDT-220 blu-ray player)

Just wanted to let everyone know that I picked up a copy of Gladiator on blu-ray yesterday to test the scene mentioned above. Myself, wife and brother didn't see the problem. We watched the scene a good ten times and no one noticed any issues.
post #3911 of 12285
When I switch aspect ratio from size 1 to size 2 I get thin black bar on the top of the screen. Is that going to hurt anything? iR?
post #3912 of 12285
Quote:
Originally Posted by TWD View Post

When I switch aspect ratio from size 1 to size 2 I get thin black bar on the top of the screen. Is that going to hurt anything? iR?

No worries at all. That is because size 2 is true size with no over scan (1:1 pixel mapping). What you are seeing is part of the broadcast. I honestly use Size 1 with a 95% over scan when I watch Satellite content. It is basically a minor zoom that eliminates the extraneous stuff on the edges. A purist will balk at a 95% over scan but I almost never see a difference. I use Size 2 for all quality content and BR movies.
Edited by TopperMcFly - 7/8/12 at 1:52pm
post #3913 of 12285
Quote:
Originally Posted by alex179 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hurin View Post

Another egregious example of the 96Hz artifacting. . .

I'm in the process of obtaining a copy of Gladiator. I should have it later tonight. And to anybody else about my possible bad HDMI 1 port. I am using an HDMI Female to HDMI Female Adapter Coupler since I don't have a long enough cable. Could this be causing the loss of the video signal? I doubt it is since it starts working as soon as I plug it into the HDMI 2 port. I'll be receiving a new 10 ft. HDMI 1.4 cable this week so I'll be able to try that out and see if the problem persists. It says on amazon "Return window will close on July 21, 2012" so I guess I have until the 21st to figure this out.

Edit: I removed my question about where in Gladiator was the problem you were talking about. I see you mention the spot in this post: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1408338/official-panasonic-vt50-owners-thread/3870#post_22197616 Now I'm wondering how to enable the 24fps/96Hz setting? It's greyed out for me.

It will be greyed out unless you are feeding the set 24p content wink.gif
post #3914 of 12285
So does anyone know how to get into the factory menu on the VT50? I'm trying to disable the Eco Sensor and get a little more brightness out of the picture without having to turn the panel brightness on high. When you switch it to high, it completely over saturates the colors. When you go to Eco Sensor in the regular menu, it only let's you choose standard or saving. Standard does not mean off, it just means the lowest of the Eco Sesnor. Im trying to disable it all together if possible.
post #3915 of 12285
Quote:
Originally Posted by TopperMcFly View Post

It will be greyed out unless you are feeding the set 24p content wink.gif

I thought so. Well hopefully the copy of Gladiator I'm "obtaining" is 24p. wink.gif
post #3916 of 12285
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpiffX View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by TopperMcFly View Post

1080p pure direct: Off

Just out of curiosity and ignorance, why "off"?

Also, were your settings done with calibration equipment or eye-balling?

Again, no judgement, just wanna know...

Thanks for re-posting.


These settings are a combination of calibrated settings that I have tried combined with my need for a bit more pop that were derived by eye. So these settings would most likely not have a glowing calibration report.

I am fully open to suggestions if anyone finds that a particular setting is throwing things out of whack.

1080p Pure Direct
The 1,080p Pure Direct function transmits and outputs high-quality YUV 4:4:4 30-bit video signals directly to the TV. This reproduces colors that are highly faithful to the original.



I do not know that it hurts to have this on. But I also do not know that there is much for source content out there that will utilize it or players with that function. With that said, I am changing this to On for the time being. I would love for a guru to drop in on this topic.


Here is some info from the setting thread:

Originally Posted by rmongiovi

What do you mean by "RGB 4:4:4"? RGB has the chroma built in, so it really isn't 4:4:4 or 4:2:2. You can only do that in YCbCr.
However, I am seeing huge differences in the color luminance, hue, and saturation depending on whether I send the TV RGB or YCbCR (either 4:2:2 or 4:4:4).
With YCbCr you can cope with the non-functional luminance controls because all the colors are either too bright or too dim so the global color control can be used to get close to the correct luminance.
With RGB, however, red and blue are too bright and green is much too dim. So a single global control can't be used to fix the color.
Since there are big differences between RGB and YCbCr, a calibration for one kind of input would not be applicable to the other.
Roy


This is what I was afraid of, and making it impossible to really calibrate the TV to reference. Without the working luminance controls the CMS is busted.


RGB 4:4:4 just means full color (no subsampling) with separated RGB channels. Granted there is two different luminance ranges for RGB. I didn't make up the definition I'm just using what was already defined. Don't kill the messenger

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chroma_subsampling#4:4:4_R.27G.27B.27_.28no_subsampling.29

I too am seeing blue having way too much luminance with my RGB feed (almost +30%). There is no way to compensate for it. My green error isn't as bad as you describe, but it's there.



Anyway, to answer your question I'm using the 10% size and 100% luminance/100% saturation windows from the new gamut calibration disk. I can switch my blu-ray player from YCbCr 4:2:2 to YCbCr 4:4:4 and my results stay the same: where all the color luminances are on the same side (high/low) of the desired value and the color control can be used to minimize the error. But if I leave everything else the same and just switch the blu-ray player to RGB and remeasure, red and blue are suddenly about 12-15% too bright and green is about 30% too dim. And that can't be fixed with the color control.
Edited by TopperMcFly - 7/8/12 at 2:12pm
post #3917 of 12285
Quote:
Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

So does anyone know how to get into the factory menu on the VT50? I'm trying to disable the Eco Sensor and get a little more brightness out of the picture without having to turn the panel brightness on high. When you switch it to high, it completely over saturates the colors. When you go to Eco Sensor in the regular menu, it only let's you choose standard or saving. Standard does not mean off, it just means the lowest of the Eco Sesnor. Im trying to disable it all together if possible.

I am not sure that there you can turn it off in the service menu. I will have to take a look. You need to press and hold down the Volume - button on the set itself and then press Info 3 times on the remote. And be careful wink.gif

And yes, panel brightness on high does blow things out of the water.
post #3918 of 12285
Has anyone else noticed that the movie "The Fall" seems to have very muted colors at times like the sky for instance? Most of the time, things look amazing. Other times I am thinking "what the..?". I know it is not the set but I am curious. It is kind of like the built in grain of 300 but not all the time.
post #3919 of 12285
Quote:
Originally Posted by TopperMcFly View Post

No worries at all. That is because size 2 is true size with no over scan. What you are seeing is part of the broadcast. I honestly use Size 1 with a 95% over scan when I watch Satellite content. It is basically a minor zoom that eliminates the extraneous stuff on the edges. A purist will balk at a 95% over scan but I almost never see a difference.

I actually like Size 2 because you get more picture on the edges. Kind of like Widescreen vs Fullscreen - except certainly not as massive of a difference, but a difference nonetheless.
post #3920 of 12285
Quote:
Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

Just wanted to let everyone know that I picked up a copy of Gladiator on blu-ray yesterday to test the scene mentioned above. Myself, wife and brother didn't see the problem. We watched the scene a good ten times and no one noticed any issues.
Thanks for checking. I really appreciate it. Though your findings cause more worry for me. wink.gif

If you don't see the artifacts at 96Hz, we're left with two possibilities:

Not every VT50 does it.

or

Not everyone's eyes pick it up when it happens.

I've already tried two different blu-ray players and two different masterings of the movie. And I clearly see it in other content as well @ 96Hz (saw it all over the place in Rome). Yet it's fine at 60Hz.

Even my wife who can't see it in Gladiator sees it in Rome.

I wonder, I have a 55" model. Is yours 65"? Most people here seem to have 65". . . which is also the case for Mr. Katzmaier at CNet. I realize that performance is supposedly similar. But pixel density and such can matter for things like this. 55" vs 65" might be a differentiating factor.

My Amazon 30-day policy expires today. I really doubt I'm going to use it over this. But that ticking clock makes this a bit more. . . anxious. smile.gif

--H
post #3921 of 12285
I prefer 1:1 pixel mapping.
post #3922 of 12285
Quote:
Originally Posted by NateDoggg View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by TopperMcFly View Post

No worries at all. That is because size 2 is true size with no over scan. What you are seeing is part of the broadcast. I honestly use Size 1 with a 95% over scan when I watch Satellite content. It is basically a minor zoom that eliminates the extraneous stuff on the edges. A purist will balk at a 95% over scan but I almost never see a difference.

I actually like Size 2 because you get more picture on the edges. Kind of like Widescreen vs Fullscreen - except certainly not as massive of a difference, but a difference nonetheless.

I would love for there to be a button on the remote to toggle back and forth between Size 1 and 2. I hate the lines on the edge when they appear.

I also have been lobbying for a Motion Smoother button on the remote for years. It is rediculous to have to go deep into the menu to change something like this. It is an on the fly setting IMO and should be on the remote.
post #3923 of 12285
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hurin View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post

Just wanted to let everyone know that I picked up a copy of Gladiator on blu-ray yesterday to test the scene mentioned above. Myself, wife and brother didn't see the problem. We watched the scene a good ten times and no one noticed any issues.
Thanks for checking. I really appreciate it. Though your findings cause more worry for me. wink.gif

If you don't see the artifacts at 96Hz, we're left with two possibilities:

Not every VT50 does it.

or

Not everyone's eyes pick it up when it happens.

I've already tried two different blu-ray players and two different masterings of the movie. And I clearly see it in other content as well @ 96Hz (saw it all over the place in Rome). Yet it's fine at 60Hz.

Even my wife who can't see it in Gladiator sees it in Rome.

I wonder, I have a 55" model. Is yours 65"? Most people here seem to have 65". . . which is also the case for Mr. Katzmaier at CNet. I realize that performance is supposedly similar. But pixel density and such can matter for things like this. 55" vs 65" might be a differentiating factor.

My Amazon 30-day policy expires today. I really doubt I'm going to use it over this. But that ticking clock makes this a bit more. . . anxious. smile.gif

--H

I think this issue is a cry for help from your television. It feels inadequate and wants you to get the 65". wink.gif

Seriously though, you never know. Maybe it is something to do with the size of the set. Unlikely but plausible.
post #3924 of 12285
Quote:
Originally Posted by TopperMcFly View Post

I would love for there to be a button on the remote to toggle back and forth between Size 1 and 2. I hate the lines on the edge when they appear.
I also have been lobbying for a Motion Smoother button on the remote for years. It is rediculous to have to go deep into the menu to change something like this. It is an on the fly setting IMO and should be on the remote.

Agreed. Once you click on the Size, you can go back and forth on the bottom of the TV and really see the difference. When I made the choice, I would pause a scene with a lot of stuff (trees and stuff) on the edges, and then shifted between size 1 and 2 with the left/right buttons - I saw a big enough difference to offset the thin line at the top or side of the screen.
post #3925 of 12285
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hurin View Post

Thanks for checking. I really appreciate it. Though your findings cause more worry for me. wink.gif
If you don't see the artifacts at 96Hz, we're left with two possibilities:
Not every VT50 does it.
or
Not everyone's eyes pick it up when it happens.
I've already tried two different blu-ray players and two different masterings of the movie. And I clearly see it in other content as well @ 96Hz (saw it all over the place in Rome). Yet it's fine at 60Hz.
Even my wife who can't see it in Gladiator sees it in Rome.
I wonder, I have a 55" model. Is yours 65"? Most people here seem to have 65". . . which is also the case for Mr. Katzmaier at CNet. I realize that performance is supposedly similar. But pixel density and such can matter for things like this. 55" vs 65" might be a differentiating factor.
My Amazon 30-day policy expires today. I really doubt I'm going to use it over this. But that ticking clock makes this a bit more. . . anxious. smile.gif
--H

I have the 65" Maybe you should see if Amazon will exchange it for another 55" and if your replacement does the same thing, maybe a 65" isn't such a bad idea smile.gif
post #3926 of 12285
Quote:
Originally Posted by TopperMcFly View Post

I am not sure that there you can turn it off in the service menu. I will have to take a look. You need to press and hold down the Volume - button on the set itself and then press Info 3 times on the remote. And be careful wink.gif
And yes, panel brightness on high does blow things out of the water.

Thanks for the tip. I tried to navigate through the service menu and have no idea what the hell I'm doin. Lol. If you have more experience with it, would you mind checking if there's a way to disable the Eco sensor and maybe make the picture a little bit sharper?

Also, thanks for posting your settings. Giving them a try right now
post #3927 of 12285
Quote:
Originally Posted by NateDoggg View Post

Of the STOCK settings, anyone else find VIVID mode the best for 3D movies? I would never use VIVID for any normal viewing content; but, it seems that 3D movies are inherently darker than 2D movies, so the Custom settings (thanks to Topper) that I use are a little too dark. Watched Green Lantern 3D the other night and while it was nice in Custom mode, it looked REALLY good when I switched to VIVID. Just wonder if anyone else has experienced this.
EDIT: Oh, and Topper - just saw your re-posting of your settings. I swear you had 3:2 pulldown on AUTO originally and now you have it listed as ON. Have you changed your mind? Or is my memory faulty?

I also used to use Vivid mode for 3D and liked it better, but it is overly blue. Since then, I've had the 3 THX modes professionally calibrated and I use the THX3D Cinema. Post calibrated, it's twice the luminance as before.
post #3928 of 12285
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hurin View Post

Thanks for checking. I really appreciate it. Though your findings cause more worry for me. wink.gif
If you don't see the artifacts at 96Hz, we're left with two possibilities:
Not every VT50 does it.
or
Not everyone's eyes pick it up when it happens.
I've already tried two different blu-ray players and two different masterings of the movie. And I clearly see it in other content as well @ 96Hz (saw it all over the place in Rome). Yet it's fine at 60Hz.
Even my wife who can't see it in Gladiator sees it in Rome.
I wonder, I have a 55" model. Is yours 65"? Most people here seem to have 65". . . which is also the case for Mr. Katzmaier at CNet. I realize that performance is supposedly similar. But pixel density and such can matter for things like this. 55" vs 65" might be a differentiating factor.
My Amazon 30-day policy expires today. I really doubt I'm going to use it over this. But that ticking clock makes this a bit more. . . anxious. smile.gif
--H

Suggest taking your Gladiator BD to Best Buy to check if you can reproduce and "see" theroblem on another VT50. Try other plasmas and LCD/LED also. Please let us know the results if you decide to take this route.
post #3929 of 12285
I am retiring a Kuro 5010 to the bedroom and want to get a larger plasma for my apartment living room. The VT50 seems to be a very good option. Before I get the VT50, and after reading many posts here I was hoping for some help. From what I see there is moderate to little discussion on setting ideal input to the VT50. As some have pointed out the source often is the problem that the VT50 may exhibit rather than the plasma TV itself Given that you folks have the TV already I thought perhaps you could lend me a hand. (I will be watching only 2D stuff - HD TV, DVD, Blu Ray as well as my archived movies in single m2ts/vob/mkv files.

Below is what I have to work with. The only item I am somewhat married to is the receiver.
System

Marantz NR1602 (recent purchase)
PS3 for Disc use only (blu ray and DVD)
Dune Base 3 media player (I usually archive my movies into single M2TS and VOB files respectively and for some movies with messy forced subs - MKV) cabled to a NAS.
TIVO 3


Previous to the Marantz addition - I set all of the above to output 1080p so that the Kuro 5010 only dealt with 1080p input.

Given some challenges that the VT50 may have would it be better to let the Marantz upscale, the VT50 or continue the way I have been doing by letting each device upscale?

I am not married to any of the devices above other than the Marantz and would replace as needed to get reasonably good quality (example - Oppo 93 for disc and possibly media files from NAS).

Seems so many devices have redundant features and yet there is no where to really check which device should be handling what. (Netflix streaming, up scaling or conversion etc.)

Thanks to any and all who can provide some input here. It seems that often the problems with a TV are not the TV but what is going into the TV and I just want to do my best to get to the VT50 the best quality input.

Cheers to all

Phrehdd
Edited by Phrehdd - 7/8/12 at 3:21pm
post #3930 of 12285
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phrehdd View Post

I am retiring a Kuro 5010 to the bedroom and want to get a larger plasma for my apartment living room. The VT50 seems to be a very good option. Before I get the VT50, and after reading many posts here I was hoping for some help. From what I see there is moderate to little discussion on setting ideal input to the VT50. As some have pointed out the source often is the problem that the VT50 may exhibit rather than the plasma TV itself Given that you folks have the TV already I thought perhaps you could lend me a hand. (I will be watching only 2D stuff - HD TV, DVD, Blu Ray as well as my archived movies in single m2ts/vob/mkv files.

Below is what I have to work with. The only item I am somewhat married to is the receiver.
System

Marantz NR1602 (recent purchase)
PS3 for Disc use only (blu ray and DVD)
Dune Base 3 media player (I usually archive my movies into single M2TS and VOB files respectively and for some movies with messy forced subs - MKV) cabled to a NAS.
TIVO 3


Previous to the Marantz addition - I set all of the above to output 1080p so that the Kuro 5010 only dealt with 1080p input.

Given some challenges that the VT50 may have would it be better to let the Marantz upscale, the VT50 or continue the way I have been doing by letting each device upscale?

I am not married to any of the devices above other than the Marantz and would replace as needed to get reasonably good quality (example - Oppo 93 for disc and possibly media files from NAS).

Seems so many devices have redundant features and yet there is no where to really check which device should be handling what. (Netflix streaming, up scaling or conversion etc.)

Thanks to any and all who can provide some input here. It seems that often the problems with a TV are not the TV but what is going into the TV and I just want to do my best to get to the VT50 the best quality input.

Cheers to all

Phrehdd

Without being familiar with the Marantz, I would suggest trying it both ways. My guess is that the VT is the way to go. I also have the ps3 and am fully satisfied with it as well. GL
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