Delighted to say that the wife and I purchased a 55" VT50 today. We were debating between the 60" GT50, and the 55 VT50. While our viewing distance of 9-12" lent itself to the 60", the wall would location would probably not accommodate a TV of that size. Also, something about that single pane of glass grabs me - I could the TV is so stunning I could watch it when its turned off!
This will be our main TV in the living room, replacing a 5+ year old 42" Samsung plasma. The Samsung still works great; I just felt this a was a good time for an upgrade. The increase in screen size will be great, but hoping that a full 1080p TV vs. the Samsung at 1080i will be nice too (not sure we'll see the difference from our viewing distance). Hopefully all the other features make this a worthwhile upgrade and the Samsung can now retire to another room!
We're yet to turn the TV on, but have it unboxed and on the stand. Inspected closely and the build looks good. Now just running through a checklist of what to do first with this TV. Do I simply enjoy it, or run break in slides for 100hrs. I'm a little nervous of burn in, and understand the break in slides don't prevent this, but still prefer the first 100 hrs to be something other than regular TV with logos etc. Plans are to use the TV in one of the THX modes and explore a calibration in the future (hoping to find someone highly recommended in Atlanta).
Also, off to monoprice now to order a v1.4 HDMI cable (still running V1.3a on Sammy), a couple of those 90 degree converters, and a new slim mount.
Any thoughts on the following would be very helpful:
1) Can anyone post or PM me the link to the break in slides?
2) Can anyone recommend a good slim mount from monoprice?
Nice. I originally bought the 55ST50 and had it for 2 weeks. I returned it for the 55VT50 but I have yet to pick it up.
I also upgraded from a 5 year old Samsung but it was an LCD. To be honest though, it's blacks almost compare to these Panasonics. It also is much clearer close up. When it comes to shadow detail, it fails miserably and that is why I am glad I finally switched to plasma. The uniformity in blacks is also a huge advantage. The disadavantages I noticed with my ST50 was the uniformity in whites which was not great. Even after 2 weeks of break-in I never saw uniform whites and the heat was ridiculous.
That said, I hope my new VT50 will show even better shadow details. I don't expect the dithering, white uniformity, or heat to be any better but that alright with me.
As far as the break in slides go:
I watched nothing but blu-ray movies with black bars for the first few days of viewing. After that I viewed mostly Netlifx streaming shows in full 16:9 so I never worried about image retention. When I did play some games I never noticed any of it. I did not have any static images displaying for more than 2 hours so I can't vouch for that.
Here is a link to some slides.These aren't D-Nice's slide though. I just googled them. I think I might use them on my new VT50 though because they seem more in depth as far as colors go.
I tried plugging in my ntfs formatted hard drive today and basically the tv would turn off then turn back on when I choose the video section in viera tools. Should this drive be formatted ntfs or fat32 ? It is a big drive (2tb) so it may have been still trying to read everything. Anyone else have this problem ?
Yes I know the Amazon.com price for the 65GT50 ( there is where I got my set a couple weeks ago when it was just under $2500 ). The 65VT50 was selling for almost $1K more at that time so it was a no brainer ( for my purposes, i.e. was not going to seek some else to professional calibrate my set, etc. ) to go with the 65GT50. It is now selling for $3370 on amazon.com which is still over $850 difference.
For whatever reason you seem to be evading my question which is where can I find the 65VT50 for the difference of less than $450 ( you must have had a typo regarding the ST50 but regardless still interested in knowing this info ) from the 65GT50. I am still in the 30 day window at Amazon.com and $450 is a very small price differential to get the all glass design, better ( potentially anyway ) calibration controls, and slightly better black levels, with less reflections during the day...
FIrst off, if you are going to correct me or call out a mistake, make sure I actually made the mistake. I checked my original post and NEVER even mentioned the ST, so I don't know where you got that from.
Second, I don't know why you're giving me attitude. My post was in relation to other posts re: price of VT vs GT that had been posted earlier in the day. I'm not "evading your question". I posted what I paid for the VT and what the price of the GT is. The difference is $450. I haven't kept up on the price of the VT because I already bought it. Whatever the price is now, if you show a little patience I can guarantee that it will fall back in the $3k range. It already has multiple times in the past 2 months. If you can't wait for the price to come back down, then I guess you should just stick with the GT. My point was, for the price difference FOR ME which is $450, there is a significantly better picture on the VT compared to the GT from what I saw. That is all.
FIrst off, if you are going to correct me or call out a mistake, make sure I actually made the mistake. I checked my original post and NEVER even mentioned the ST, so I don't know where you got that from.
Second, I don't know why you're giving me attitude. My post was in relation to other posts re: price of VT vs GT that had been posted earlier in the day. I'm not "evading your question". I posted what I paid for the VT and what the price of the GT is. The difference is $450. I haven't kept up on the price of the VT because I already bought it. Whatever the price is now, if you show a little patience I can guarantee that it will fall back in the $3k range. It already has multiple times in the past 2 months. If you can't wait for the price to come back down, then I guess you should just stick with the GT. My point was, for the price difference FOR ME which is $450, there is a significantly better picture on the VT compared to the GT from what I saw. That is all.
My god I answered the question. I paid $3k for my TV. GT selling for $2550. Difference is $450. I don't know how I can be more clear - so if you can't understand that math then it's probably best I don't respond to this topic anymore.
I'm going to be buying a new TV in the not-so-distant future, and up until recently, I had been sold on an LED. After a lot of research, I began to seriously consider the VT50, but my one concern is IR / burn in. The last time I went TV shopping was 2005 and from what I've read IR / burn in were much bigger problems then than they are today, and it occurs to me that my concerns may be a result of an old prejudice that I'm hanging on to from the last time I shopped for a new TV.
This seems to be the right place to get feedback from VT50 owners, so I'd like to know - are any of you experiencing any IR or burn in? Or is it safe to assume that if I handle the break in period correctly I should be safe to use the TV without any fear of IR or burn in?
Personally, I spend about five hours a day with the TV usually spent with a mix of video games and streaming TV or movies. I don't watch anything with persistent logos, but gaming HUD's and the occasional black bars from 4:3 content are both concerns.
I'm going to be buying a new TV in the not-so-distant future, and up until recently, I had been sold on an LED. After a lot of research, I began to seriously consider the VT50, but my one concern is IR / burn in. The last time I went TV shopping was 2005 and from what I've read IR / burn in were much bigger problems then than they are today, and it occurs to me that my concerns may be a result of an old prejudice that I'm hanging on to from the last time I shopped for a new TV.
This seems to be the right place to get feedback from VT50 owners, so I'd like to know - are any of you experiencing any IR or burn in? Or is it safe to assume that if I handle the break in period correctly I should be safe to use the TV without any fear of IR or burn in?
Personally, I spend about five hours a day with the TV usually spent with a mix of video games and streaming TV or movies. I don't watch anything with persistent logos, but gaming HUD's and the occasional black bars from 4:3 content are both concerns.
About 2000 of the 4000+ posts in this thread relate the same concerns. All plasmas exhibit image retention. It is seldom noticeable while viewing moving content. The VT50 is the best consumer display available today and fear is unwarranted.
BTW, if you're going to get it calibrated, Panasonic recommends 250 hours play time prior to calibration of its studio monitors.
I'm going to be buying a new TV in the not-so-distant future, and up until recently, I had been sold on an LED. After a lot of research, I began to seriously consider the VT50, but my one concern is IR / burn in. The last time I went TV shopping was 2005 and from what I've read IR / burn in were much bigger problems then than they are today, and it occurs to me that my concerns may be a result of an old prejudice that I'm hanging on to from the last time I shopped for a new TV.
This seems to be the right place to get feedback from VT50 owners, so I'd like to know - are any of you experiencing any IR or burn in? Or is it safe to assume that if I handle the break in period correctly I should be safe to use the TV without any fear of IR or burn in?
Personally, I spend about five hours a day with the TV usually spent with a mix of video games and streaming TV or movies. I don't watch anything with persistent logos, but gaming HUD's and the occasional black bars from 4:3 content are both concerns.
Actually if you mix up your viewing content one will never have an issue with IR or Burn In. Keep in mind IR goes away and rarely can be seen in normal viewing content.
An LED can not have burn in, but it can have images not go away on the screen, so it is just like burn in. Most do not know this as it is rare, as is, burn in on a plasma. In fact, I have been on this forum for a very long time and have yet to see images of burn in from a normal user. I have seen plasma's that where used in business that are ruined due to burn in as they have no issue leaving still images on there screen for months on end.
My god I answered the question. I paid $3k for my TV. GT selling for $2550. Difference is $450. I don't know how I can be more clear - so if you can't understand that math then it's probably best I don't respond to this topic anymore.
I believe it is English and not Math we are having the problem with. The question is *where*...
Also "paid" is past tense; *is* is present tense. Therefore it matters what both sets are selling for during the same "return window" and not at two convenient points in time selected to support the construction of your hypothetical argument. Edited by tonydeluce - 7/15/12 at 8:50am
I love it,the picture is awsome now even on my Fios HD channels.if you can get it calibrated by a pro it's worth it.
To me, the biggest drawback of the VT50 is the soft picture. If I were to have it professionally calibrated, is it possible to get a sharper looking image quality, or is the calibration mainly for accurate colors and more shadow detail?
[quote/] For those who are using a stb/avr to deinterlace.. are you going with 1080p or 720p? [/quote]
The question gets a bit more complicated as there are various ways to ge to 1080p from 1080i... One could do motion adaptive de-interlacing on the 1080i which requires significantly more processing than dropping one of the 540 frames and consequently creating a 540p signal and then scaling this to 1080p. 720p to 1080p can be simply scaled to 1080p. In the case of 540p -> 1080p, the 720p -> 1080p will look better; in the case of using motion adaptive de-interlacing the 1080i signal, the 1080i will look much better if done properly. Edited by tonydeluce - 7/15/12 at 8:52am
Thanks for the feedback Ice That Jaw. I found the D-Nice screens on HDJ and am running those now. My only concern was the recommendation to use custom settings at default, which has contrast at 100. A lot of the information I have read recommends lower contrast settings during the initial use period; however I believe this might apply to regular viewing content as opposed to solid color screens. The TV appears to be working very well. There is a slight buzz during lighter screens, but it seems reasonable and no more than my current Samsung. While it can be heard 10 inches from the TV, I can't see this being an issue from 9' with our surround sound firing too.
Struggling to find a good mount on Monoprice that is slim, but gives enough space for the power cable and HDMI cable behind the screen. Any thoughts?
Also ordered the Disney WOW blu ray - interested to see the Pixel firing tool on the disc.
To me, the biggest drawback of the VT50 is the soft picture. If I were to have it professionally calibrated, is it possible to get a sharper looking image quality, or is the calibration mainly for accurate colors and more shadow detail?
If you are watching a 1080p source with the display set to 1:1 pixel mapping the only thing not sharp about the VT50 is the small amount of non defeatable edge enhancement which is not visible viewing normal content. Calibration of sharpness will result in a setting of zero and that is all that can be done.
Thanks for the feedback Ice That Jaw. I found the D-Nice screens on HDJ and am running those now. My only concern was the recommendation to use custom settings at default, which has contrast at 100. A lot of the information I have read recommends lower contrast settings during the initial use period; .
Panasonic has no such break in contrast requirement that I have seen. They do ask for a 30 minute warmup with a full screen 50% gray pattern prior to calibration though.
Yes I know the Amazon.com price for the 65GT50 ( there is where I got my set a couple weeks ago when it was just under $2500 ). The 65VT50 was selling for almost $1K more at that time so it was a no brainer ( for my purposes, i.e. was not going to seek some else to professional calibrate my set, etc. ) to go with the 65GT50. It is now selling for $3370 on amazon.com which is still over $850 difference.
For whatever reason you seem to be evading my question which is where can I find the 65VT50 for the difference of less than $450 ( you must have had a typo regarding the ST50 but regardless still interested in knowing this info ) from the 65GT50. I am still in the 30 day window at Amazon.com and $450 is a very small price differential to get the all glass design, better ( potentially anyway ) calibration controls, and slightly better black levels, with less reflections during the day...
Quote:
Originally Posted by NateDoggg
FIrst off, if you are going to correct me or call out a mistake, make sure I actually made the mistake. I checked my original post and NEVER even mentioned the ST, so I don't know where you got that from.
Second, I don't know why you're giving me attitude. My post was in relation to other posts re: price of VT vs GT that had been posted earlier in the day. I'm not "evading your question". I posted what I paid for the VT and what the price of the GT is. The difference is $450. I haven't kept up on the price of the VT because I already bought it. Whatever the price is now, if you show a little patience I can guarantee that it will fall back in the $3k range. It already has multiple times in the past 2 months. If you can't wait for the price to come back down, then I guess you should just stick with the GT. My point was, for the price difference FOR ME which is $450, there is a significantly better picture on the VT compared to the GT from what I saw. That is all.
Calm down guys... What a mess. I was the one who started this debate (2 pages back) and it wasn't even the the point... The point was that the increment in features probably isn't enough to justify the delta price (and the post was about ST50 vs. VT50). After that even "Cleveland Plasma" replied saying that no one can judge someone else's bank account... Which is also besides the point. My point was that given delta features vs. delta dollars, the ST50 is probably the optimum bang for the buck (how much one is willing to pay or not is irrelevant in this analysis),
In any case,"Ice That Jaw" was the one who said that the delta price between VT50 and ST50 was only $450 (see below). He got it at Best Buy. I got my VT50 at Best Buy also for $3k (with a Sears price match - full story on this thread also), but that deal is not "currently" available.
Let the waters calm down...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ice That Jaw
$1000 more?
I originally bought the ST50 from Best Buy then after 2 weeks I returned and ordered the VT50. Even with an increased warranty the difference was only $450. I should be able to pick the VT50 on Tues.
If you are watching a 1080p source with the display set to 1:1 pixel mapping the only thing not sharp about the VT50 is the small amount of non defeatable edge enhancement which is not visible viewing normal content. Calibration of sharpness will result in a setting of zero and that is all that can be done.
When you say 1:1 pixel mapping, are you talking about in the screen adjustment menu, to set the picture to "full" and "size 2"?
I think for a lot of people the comparison is at a certain price point, do you go with the higher end model or larger screen size. At least, that is where I am right now. If cost were not a factor I would get Both the biggest And best.
Also, when it comes to professional calibration, does that pretty much take the "pop" out of the picture? I've already debated taking the VT50 back because of this reason and I'm afraid getting a professional calibration will be a waste of money for someone like me. I found this picture on HDTV Test showing the pre and post calibration pictures on a tv and to me personally, the post calibration looks worse. Thoughts? BTW, I'm not trying to start a debate or arguement. I'm just concerned that this TV, especially getting a professional calibration, may not be for me.
Also, when it comes to professional calibration, does that pretty much take the "pop" out of the picture? I've already debated taking the VT50 back because of this reason and I'm afraid getting a professional calibration will be a waste of money for someone like me. I found this picture on HDTV Test showing the pre and post calibration pictures on a tv and to me personally, the post calibration looks worse. Thoughts? BTW, I'm not trying to start a debate or arguement. I'm just concerned that this TV, especially getting a professional calibration, may not be for me.
What you call "pop" is the blue tint on the left picture.
What you call "pop" is the blue tint on the left picture.
Hmmmmm. I guess I don't see it. Maybe my eyes have been trained a certain way all my life watching tv's, because the pre calibration looks more white to me. I may need to try a calibration and try to let my eyes adjust to it. I'm the guy who's pretty much been watching all of his TV's in "torch" mode his whole life. This is the first plasma I've ever owned and at times, it looks amazing!!!! Other times, my six year old Samsung LCD looks better. Still debating if I want to keep it or not. Here's just a few of the TV's I've gone through in the last 5 years.
Sony KDS-60A3000
Mitsubishi WD-65738
LG 55LX9500
Sony 46XBR8
Sony 55HX820
Samsung UN65D8000
Samsung UN60ES8000
AND NOW I'M AT THE Panasonic 65VT50
Also, when it comes to professional calibration, does that pretty much take the "pop" out of the picture? I've already debated taking the VT50 back because of this reason and I'm afraid getting a professional calibration will be a waste of money for someone like me. I found this picture on HDTV Test showing the pre and post calibration pictures on a tv and to me personally, the post calibration looks worse. Thoughts? BTW, I'm not trying to start a debate or arguement. I'm just concerned that this TV, especially getting a professional calibration, may not be for me.
Calibration isn't for everyone. Some like a "cooler" more vivid picture. If that is your preference, I suggest calibrating contrast, brightness, and color saturation yourself (using a calibration dvd). With that being said, I still think getting a calibration and being open with your calibrator will give you great, if not better results than what I suggested above. You can have them adjust to a slightly cooler/vivid and brighter picture while still staying close to reference color.
A calibration might not give you more "pop", but I do think it gives the picture mode depth, which comes readily apparent when the lights are off