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Official Panasonic VT50 owners thread - Page 196

post #5851 of 12304
8/17/12 at 11:27am
Quote:
Originally Posted by adeelz View Post

So I got the 55" VT50 from Amazon a couple of weeks ago and so far I love it except for one problem. I get some grayish horizontal lines that scroll vertically from bottom to top. One line is more noticeable than the rest especially in dark scenes. At first I thought it was my cable connection because I'm connected through component because my cable box doesn't have an HDMI connection (I have Cox cable in Phoenix, AZ). If I turn off my cable box and have a blank black screen the moving lines are still there. I don't have this problem at all with DVD, Blu Ray or video games. I'm running some break-in slides now and the lines aren't there. Does anyone have any idea how to fix this or what the problem is?

This sounds like an analog ground loop. Does your cable box have a ground prong? I would also check your wall power outlet, too, to be sure the polarity and gounding are correct. You can get an inexpensive tester at most electronics and hardware stores. They have three test lights. Two will light when everything is good.

Michael
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post #5852 of 12304
8/17/12 at 11:59am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tempest261 View Post

I hear you loud and clear and I agree 100%. As I stated, Rogo is more than welcome to PM me if he has any questions.

I really appreciate this forum. I have been doing a lot of research before I pulled the trigger on a VT50. I should have it some time next week. I can't wait.

I just want to thank everyone. I did go through all of the trouble to create an account just so I could say thanks and less importantly to ask Tempest to please STFU. You and a few others have made navigating through this thread much more difficult than it needs to be. If you were an adult, you would have initiated the first PM rather than satisfy your your huge ego and need to get the last word in.

Anyway, I will post my impressions once I get everything set up or maybe I won't. This thread kind of scares me to be honest. This will be my first plasma, so I am a little nervous.
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post #5853 of 12304
8/17/12 at 12:13pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChickenFried View Post

I really appreciate this forum. I have been doing a lot of research before I pulled the trigger on a VT50. I should have it some time next week. I can't wait.
I just want to thank everyone. I did go through all of the trouble to create an account just so I could say thanks and less importantly to ask Tempest to please STFU. You and a few others have made navigating through this thread much more difficult than it needs to be. If you were an adult, you would have initiated the first PM rather than satisfy your your huge ego and need to get the last word in.
Anyway, I will post my impressions once I get everything set up or maybe I won't. This thread kind of scares me to be honest. This will be my first plasma, so I am a little nervous.

I've said it before and I'll say it again: it you don't want to see my posts, please, I encourage you: use the wonderful AVS forum blocking ability. I try to post as useful information as I can, but I will also call out nonsense when I see it. There's nothing that I hate more than misinformation, and this thread has been full of it. Short of my attempts to take off-topic conversations into other threads or PMs, that's never going to change. So please go ahead and block me- I promise that there are no hard feelings, and I understand.
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post #5854 of 12304
8/17/12 at 12:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterG View Post

I think you really should do a bit more digging to think that panel inspections are necessarily very, very cursory.
http://www.radiantzemax.com/en/automated-optical-inspection/home.aspx

Radiant's system, and those like it, are largely designed to catch defective displays as work in progress -- before a human (or machines) can look at finished goods. I'm generally familiar with that kind of testing and if you read the pages you linked, you'll see that True Test is actually designed to find faulty WIP pieces and take them out of the system. It is not designed for "binning" of parts. True Test is a "go / no go" solution. True Test Mura could theoretically be used for "binning", although it actually seems merely to apply go / no go to WIP. (That could still theoretically allow binning if, for example, the lowest mura displays were tagged for high-performance apps.)

The problem is even if my parenthetical comment applied, it's not relevant to how Elites are made. They have to be assembled with BEFs and BLUs before they could even be properly judged and then they'd still be the only panels with full-array BLUs and Elite BEFs, so there is still no cherry-picking. Also, the assumption here is that the mura testing is somehow sufficient / relevant for binning, which is actually not clear at all.

What is clear is that to even achieve that level of cherry picking, you'd need to test 100% of the panels to find the gems in the ore so to speak. Why are you doing this? You're basically adding cost to more than 1 million Sharp TVs so you can very marginally improve the quality of 10,000 Sharp Elites? Occam's Razor again says this is not happening.
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post #5855 of 12304
8/17/12 at 12:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tempest261 View Post

Rogo,
No. Again, I have a degree in this (from one of the world's top engineering schools). You're (continually) making a gross misunderstanding. I actually design microprocessors, which are ASICs, every day.
The Wikipedia article is correct, but you're grossly misunderstanding it. "ASIC" is a category which a "microprocessor" *can* fall under. You can't reconfigure the architecture of a microprocessor that is an ASIC. That's what makes it an ASIC. Conversely, you can have something called a FPGA or CPLD (I'll let you wiki those). These are configurable ICs. They CAN also be microprocessors. They can be anything (digitally, and SOMETIMES in analog) you want them to be, given area and resource constraints. To put it in simpler terms, the distinction between something like an ASIC and the FPGA is how they're architecturally configured, either before or after fabrication. An ASIC is a one-time thing- you fabricate it, and if there is a design or architectural issue, you have to work around it in software, or redesign and re-fabricate (which is ungodly expensive). An FPGA is fabricated, but then later configured, at the cost of power, area, and frequency. NASA likes to use FPGAs and CPLDs because they can fix hardware issues (sometimes caused by foreign particles) in their design without having to access the chip. Intel/AMD/NVIDIA use ASICs in their processors due to lower cost, higher density, lower power, and higher frequencies. You CAN have a "CPU" or "GPU" in an FPGA, but that's usually just for prototyping, and given today's CPU and GPU gate densities, it usually takes a giant FPGA or a network of them to handle that job. They can be used for a variety of other tasks, but I could talk about FPGAs for hours.
I sincerely hope that clears this up. This isn't even a debate of semantics. If you want to believe the sky is polka-dotted purple, go ahead, but for the sake of everyone else in this thread, I'm dropping this extremely silly debate (you learn this distinction clearly in the first week of a semiconductor physics class). PM me if you want to me to explain it further or if you have any questions on this topic.

No one in the semiconductor industry refers to microprocessors as ASICs, even if 100% of what you say is technically correct.

I'll just cite one of thousands of Google documents that backs this assertion:

http://www.interfacebus.com/ASIC_IC_Manufacturers.html

The lack of Intel and AMD on the list is what you're looking for.
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post #5856 of 12304
8/17/12 at 1:25pm
Hey guys, Just wanted to let you know I just purchased the 65 inch VT50 from Paul's TV! I am excited. My friend also has this set as well as the Pioneer Kuro. Just thought I'd drop in and say hello to everyone! I'm going to have it ISF calibrated by a local guy we know that does it around state.
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post #5857 of 12304
8/17/12 at 1:47pm
Topper, how about posting your settings preceded by something along the lines of the following:

The following settings have been derived from multiple sources and techniques, which may be both technical and non-technical in nature, the result of which are not intended in any way to represent that which can be accomplished by a professionally performed calibration. The combination of sources and techniques have created a visual picture that should not be used as a standard or objective reference point to or for any other settings; the result was generated from adjustments to satisfy my own personal, subjective preferences, taking into account my specific TV and the conditions in which it operates. As all TVs and operating conditions are different, the results of these particular settings will differ, perhaps quite significantly. In short, the following settings should not be viewed as, or compared to, calibrated settings. They simply create a result that looks appropriate to me in my sole, subjective opinion.

Topper, if you still choose to not re-post your latest settings, I would appreciate it if you PM'd them to me. Thanks.
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post #5858 of 12304
8/17/12 at 2:18pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChickenFried View Post

I really appreciate this forum. I have been doing a lot of research before I pulled the trigger on a VT50. I should have it some time next week. I can't wait.
I just want to thank everyone. I did go through all of the trouble to create an account just so I could say thanks and less importantly to ask Tempest to please STFU. You and a few others have made navigating through this thread much more difficult than it needs to be. If you were an adult, you would have initiated the first PM rather than satisfy your your huge ego and need to get the last word in.
Anyway, I will post my impressions once I get everything set up or maybe I won't. This thread kind of scares me to be honest. This will be my first plasma, so I am a little nervous.

Please don't let anyone here scare you, there's really no reason to be afraid. Also, your little message to Tempest seems to indicate that you'll have no problem blending right in. wink.gif
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post #5859 of 12304
8/17/12 at 2:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dukecat View Post

Topper, how about posting your settings preceded by something along the lines of the following:
The following settings have been derived from multiple sources and techniques, which may be both technical and non-technical in nature, the result of which are not intended in any way to represent that which can be accomplished by a professionally performed calibration. The combination of sources and techniques have created a visual picture that should not be used as a standard or objective reference point to or for any other settings; the result was generated from adjustments to satisfy my own personal, subjective preferences, taking into account my specific TV and the conditions in which it operates. As all TVs and operating conditions are different, the results of these particular settings will differ, perhaps quite significantly. In short, the following settings should not be viewed as, or compared to, calibrated settings. They simply create a result that looks appropriate to me in my sole, subjective opinion.

Excellent suggestion.
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post #5860 of 12304
8/17/12 at 2:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by sheshechic View Post

Please don't let anyone here scare you, there's really no reason to be afraid. Also, your little message to Tempest seems to indicate that you'll have no problem blending right in. wink.gif

LoL, thanks buddy smile.gif
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post #5861 of 12304
8/17/12 at 2:48pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael2000 View Post

This sounds like an analog ground loop. Does your cable box have a ground prong? I would also check your wall power outlet, too, to be sure the polarity and gounding are correct. You can get an inexpensive tester at most electronics and hardware stores. They have three test lights. Two will light when everything is good.
Michael

Thanks a lot! I don't know much about electronics but I googled ground loop and this seems to be my problem. I have everything plugged into one powerstrip. Could this be causing the probem?
I also found this on Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/VSIS-EU-Cable-Ground-Loop-Isolator/dp/B0017I3K9M/ref=lh_ni_t

Is this what I need to solve this problem?
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post #5862 of 12304
8/17/12 at 3:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by adeelz View Post

Thanks a lot! I don't know much about electronics but I googled ground loop and this seems to be my problem. I have everything plugged into one powerstrip. Could this be causing the probem?
I also found this on Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/VSIS-EU-Cable-Ground-Loop-Isolator/dp/B0017I3K9M/ref=lh_ni_t
Is this what I need to solve this problem?

It does sound like a ground loop. It may be caused by poor or no ground on your cable connection. To test it out, physically unplug the coax from your cable box inside your house or better yet, unplug the coax from the main lead into the house and see if the gray lines go away. If they do, then you have a bad cable ground. To fix it, call your cable provider and have them come out and fix the coax ground.
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post #5863 of 12304
8/17/12 at 4:10pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by wmwilker View Post

I don't know because I only use the ISF Day & Night and sometimes Custom. My set was calibrated before the firmware update and when I did the update I could see a change in the picture. It really wasn't worse but it was different.
When I re-calibrated I did a full reset of the TV so I don't know what the difference was after the firmware update.
I would imagine that the THX presets would not get messed up but I don't know that for sure.

I dont see ISF day/night as options in my menu

where do I find it?
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post #5864 of 12304
8/17/12 at 4:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by billmich View Post

I dont see ISF day/night as options in my menu
where do I find it?

These can be unlocked with Turbe's ControlCal software, and/or with calibration software. If you don't intend on buying a meter, then ControlCal is the cheapest, most effective option to go with. It lets you interface with all of the controls via a laptop. If you do plan on buying a meter to calibrate, I'd recommend both ControlCal and CalMan DIY.

http://www.controlcal.com/
http://store.spectracal.com/
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post #5865 of 12304
8/17/12 at 4:19pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tempest261 View Post

These can be unlocked with Turbe's ControlCal software, and/or with calibration software. If you don't intend on buying a meter, then ControlCal is the cheapest, most effective option to go with. It lets you interface with all of the controls via a laptop. If you do plan on buying a meter to calibrate, I'd recommend both ControlCal and CalMan DIY.
http://www.controlcal.com/
http://store.spectracal.com/

thank you tempest, what about if I plan on having some one come out and professionally calibrate it, will i want to make sure they have certain equipment to unlock these features?
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post #5866 of 12304
8/17/12 at 5:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by LILBZ3 View Post

I need your guys' help!!!
I know it's a GT50 but these series have the same features maybe you would know what the problem is or can give me a link to where I can spread this around? I want answers sooon. Thanks guys. Watch the video!!!
TC-P55GT50
I just got this Plasma, and I'm worried about this problem I'm having. Perhaps its just the display settings on my PS3? Im at a loss. Its ONLY when I pop in a movie, SOMETIMES the blacks have flickering pixels all throughout the panel in most parts of the movies, like the letterbox bars. Like I show, the problem doesn't exist in the PS3 menu. Do you think it has something to do with the features of the GT50? Perhaps its only happening when a dvd/bluray is playing? Netflix looks great, better blacks than a bluray because of this problem causing the blurays blacks to lack clarity and depth. Please help!!!
Watch it in HD, you'll see what my problem is.
http://youtu.be/xI-rWEibRpE?hd=1

Hi,

What you're seeing is temporal dithering. It's an inherent part of plasma technology; the display is unable to natively produce all the possible color gradients, so dithering is used to trick the eyes into seeing more colors. You shouldn't be able to see it from a normal viewing distance.

That being said, if dithering occurs, it means it's not actually displaying black. And letterbox bars are supposed to be black. As others have suggested, you need to get your black levels calibrated so dithering does not occur in those bars. Based on the video you linked, reducing the brightness by 1 or 2 should completely eliminate the dithering.
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post #5867 of 12304
8/17/12 at 6:04pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by billmich View Post

thank you tempest, what about if I plan on having some one come out and professionally calibrate it, will i want to make sure they have certain equipment to unlock these features?
I know Chad B has everything you need and he services your area.....
Cleveland Plasma Insider
» Get the latest news and updates at the Cleveland Plasma sponsor page.
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Cleveland Plasma Insider
» Get the latest news and updates at the Cleveland Plasma sponsor page.
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post #5868 of 12304
8/17/12 at 8:31pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by billmich View Post

thank you tempest, what about if I plan on having some one come out and professionally calibrate it, will i want to make sure they have certain equipment to unlock these features?

Any reputable calibrator should have what you need. As Cleveland Plasma stated, ChadB would be an excellent choice, if he's able to come out to where you are.

Also, the calibrator would probably check for this, but make sure to have the TV's firmware updated BEFORE the calibration. The most recent firmware update affected the picture, albeit slightly. Also, I would recommend to have the calibration done after you've used the TV for ~100-200 hours.
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post #5869 of 12304
8/17/12 at 9:42pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by SiGGy View Post

This years TVs do have a slow refresh drive system to achieve the darker blacks. What you can see is a scan line scrolling on any area that is black. However I doubt this is what you're noticing.
Looks like normal PWM noise to me.
The brightness control (black level) generally needs to be calibrated per device! What happens when you turn down the brightness control a few clicks while looking at the black bars in the movie? Do the speckles go away?
Before you even continue posting on here about this. Go calibrate your black levels using the PS3's BR player.
Download this and burn it to DVD put it in your PS3.
http://content.wuala.com/contents/alluringreality/Public/AVCHD-2d.exe/?dl=1
Go into the basic patterns and do the black clipping adjustment. I highly recommend you watch the tutorial on the disc before you adjust it, it will explain how to adjust it correctly.
Is the disc that you are showing in the example movie you made an original disc? If it's copied/re-encoded all bets are off. Try a normal store bought BR disc if this is the case.
You might want to ask this question on the PS3 forum, to see if there are any BR playback settings that need to be adjusted. It's possible BR playback is using a different video mode... I'm not fam. with the PS3. Hopefully someone who is chimes in smile.gif

You're a genius. Although I have noticed the scrolling bars (not a big deal) I did find out it was the brightness. I will take your advise and calibrate the blacks, I just thought I was supposed to wait 100 hours. Also, it was a store bought BR, I no longer have this problem, I'm stoked. It looks a lot better. Cant wait to calibrate. Thanks!
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post #5870 of 12304
8/17/12 at 10:10pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tempest261 View Post

LoL, thanks buddy smile.gif

Hey, it wasn't meant as a dig at you. redface.gif

And I'm betting that ChickenFried isn't too fond of me either. wink.gif
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post #5871 of 12304
8/18/12 at 7:22am
Quote:
Originally Posted by LILBZ3 View Post

You're a genius. Although I have noticed the scrolling bars (not a big deal) I did find out it was the brightness. I will take your advise and calibrate the blacks, I just thought I was supposed to wait 100 hours. Also, it was a store bought BR, I no longer have this problem, I'm stoked. It looks a lot better. Cant wait to calibrate. Thanks!

You don't need to wait to calibrate something simple like brightness and contrast... people just recommend to wait 100+ hours (some 200+ hours) before you pay for a professional to come and calibrate your set (for white balance, CMS, etc.) for $$$, because the rate of drift is supposedly higher during this "break-in period".
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post #5872 of 12304
8/18/12 at 7:31am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dukecat View Post

Topper, how about posting your settings preceded by something along the lines of the following:
The following settings have been derived from multiple sources and techniques, which may be both technical and non-technical in nature, the result of which are not intended in any way to represent that which can be accomplished by a professionally performed calibration. The combination of sources and techniques have created a visual picture that should not be used as a standard or objective reference point to or for any other settings; the result was generated from adjustments to satisfy my own personal, subjective preferences, taking into account my specific TV and the conditions in which it operates. As all TVs and operating conditions are different, the results of these particular settings will differ, perhaps quite significantly. In short, the following settings should not be viewed as, or compared to, calibrated settings. They simply create a result that looks appropriate to me in my sole, subjective opinion.
Topper, if you still choose to not re-post your latest settings, I would appreciate it if you PM'd them to me. Thanks.

Topper has gone the way of D-Nice...don't expect to see him on here anymore.
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post #5873 of 12304
8/18/12 at 7:45am
Quote:
Originally Posted by I WANT MORE View Post

I am watching CIN vs ATL on FOX and it is spectacular. Nothing blurry about it.

Was it a bit blurry when the camera had to move very quickly. Im not saying that it is blurry all the time. But I guess I am noticing motion blur. But I should assume that that kind of thing is normal?

Also, does it matter what setting I currently have on when it comes to motion blur? I have Vivid (i know I know) could this be the problem?
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post #5874 of 12304
8/18/12 at 8:00am
Quote:
Originally Posted by NateDoggg View Post

Topper has gone the way of D-Nice...don't expect to see him on here anymore.

What happened with D-Nice?
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post #5875 of 12304
8/18/12 at 8:01am
i think we should sticky
day/night settings can be unlocked with Turbe's ControlCal software, and/or with calibration software.
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post #5876 of 12304
8/18/12 at 8:02am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jarias2311 View Post

Was it a bit blurry when the camera had to move very quickly. Im not saying that it is blurry all the time. But I guess I am noticing motion blur. But I should assume that that kind of thing is normal?
Also, does it matter what setting I currently have on when it comes to motion blur? I have Vivid (i know I know) could this be the problem?

try Motion Smoother on Weak - it's not a BIG difference, but it helps a little without introducing too much artifacts. I use Motion Smooth on Weak when viewing normal content, OFF when watching Blu Ray movies. I will sometimes click it up to Medium when watching sporting events - so for baseball maybe give that a try...just make sure you drop it down to Weak or Off when going back to normal content.
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post #5877 of 12304
8/18/12 at 10:51am
Are our VT50s RVU compatible?
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post #5878 of 12304
8/18/12 at 11:08am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mnc View Post

What happened with D-Nice?
[/quote]y



He was supposed to do my VT50 today until I found bad IR
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post #5879 of 12304
8/18/12 at 12:59pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mnc View Post

What happened with D-Nice?

It seems as though he's done with it all since he hasn't posted anywhere including not updating the settings thread with the GT50 & VT50 settings.

The ironic thing about Topper using D-Nice is that Topper probably contributed much to D-Nice's "irritation & insult pot." rolleyes.gif
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post #5880 of 12304
8/18/12 at 1:10pm
Quick question:

What do I need to do in order for the VT50 to recognize a usb connected external hard drive?

I have an apple time capsule and a 1TB Iomega external drive. Connecting either of them via USB and TV does not seem to recognize either drive. Could it be because they were formatted by a Mac? Might push me towards picking up a WD Live media hub instead since I know that will play all my movie files.

Thanks in advance.
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