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Official Panasonic VT50 owners thread - Page 227

post #6781 of 13463
Today I had a chance to further experiment with 3D. Looks like changing the TV's 24p setting (under the Advanced Picture submenu) from the THX 3D Cinema default of 60Hz to 48Hz applies to all my Bluray movies eliminating all 3D ghosting that I can see--however, I couldn't seem to gain access to these settings ( grayed-out) while viewing Directv 3D channels. Unfortunately this resulted in significant 3D ghosting while viewing Directv 3D sporting events on my VT 50. Anybody figure out how to adjust 24p settings to 48Hz while watching Directv 3D channels?
post #6782 of 13463
Anyone have a pioneer 500m as well as the 65vt? I'm getting sick of the red tint blacks on the Pioneer. And was curious how close the PQ of the VT is to the 500? Will I miss the 500ms black level? I don't want to make a purchase I will regret. Thanks in advance.
post #6783 of 13463
What I do when watching 3D from cable is to set my receiver to 24P and then I can set the Vt50 to 48hz
post #6784 of 13463
Quote:
Originally Posted by 440forpower View Post

Anyone have a pioneer 500m as well as the 65vt? I'm getting sick of the red tint blacks on the Pioneer. And was curious how close the PQ of the VT is to the 500? Will I miss the 500ms black level? I don't want to make a purchase I will regret. Thanks in advance.

I can't comment on the pioneer...

"Black level: Blacks on the VT50 had an inky quality visibly superior to what I saw on any other TV in the lineup aside from the two Elites. The letterbox bars and numerous black and shadowy areas from "Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows: Part 2" looked and measured a notch lighter on the Panasonic ST50 and GT50, the Samsung, and the Sony in most scenes, and the darker the scene, the more superior the VT50 looked than those four. Its true 0 percent measurement of 0.0024 is the lowest we've ever recorded for a non-Kuro plasma."
http://reviews.cnet.com/flat-panel-tvs/panasonic-tc-p55vt50/4505-6482_7-35118304-2.html
post #6785 of 13463
Quote:
Originally Posted by dvdmd1 View Post

What I do when watching 3D from cable is to set my receiver to 24P and then I can set the Vt50 to 48hz

Thank you for the tip. I have an old Sony HT-CT100 sound bar currently in use with my Vt50 and I don't think I can make that adjustment with the HT-CT100 receiver settings. May be time to start looking for another Receiver for my new VT50 cool.gif
post #6786 of 13463
Quote:
Originally Posted by solat152 View Post

So I have been running color slides for about 12 hours now. I have noticed that there is a slightly darker vertical band on the right side of the screen. It's about half an inch away from the right side and is about 3/4 of an inch thick. Anyone else have this. I am kind of OCD about things like that. Have to wait and see if it bothers me when watching tv or playing games. I got 60 days to return or exchange if I want to.

Don't worry about it. It's on all the models and it's impossible to spot when viewing regular content. I first started out with an ST50 and I noticed it when running the slides. When I upgraded to a VT50 it was still there so that's that.

As for the IR everyone is worried about. It's not really that big of a deal but I will say that aging your panel 100 hrs is not nearly enough. I have probably 1000 hrs on my panel and the IR seems no better than it was at 100hrs.That said, all of it has been easy to clear so it hasn't ruined any experiences for me.

I still enjoy the CNET settings the best so far but I have found that increasing the gamma to 2.2 and reducing the brightness to around 50 has really brought out the details in dark scenes. Contrast still seems best at 84.
Edited by Ice That Jaw - 9/16/12 at 4:55pm
post #6787 of 13463
Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Dogg View Post

OK I have officially joined the VT50 owner's club. I ordered my set (the 55" model) a week ago and it arrived at the store yesterday so I went there this morning and got it. Just got it hooked up about half hour ago and now running D-Nice's break-in slides for the next about 100 hrs to get it "aged". I really like the look of the set. I plan on mounting it to the wall on Wednesday when I have the day off and more time to do such a task.

Congratulations! From a long time LCD/LED TV owner ( myself), I can tell you that you will not be disappointed. This TV is amazing ( and relatively affordable) . Also don't be afraid to view normal content on this this TV while you are breaking in with those slides. As others have said on this forum...Enjoy! wink.gif
post #6788 of 13463
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ice That Jaw View Post

Don't worry about it. It's on all the models and it's impossible to spot when viewing regular content. I first started out with an ST50 and I noticed it when running the slides. When I upgraded to a VT50 it was still there so that's that.
As for the IR everyone is worried about. It's not really that big of a deal but I will say that aging your panel 100 hrs is not nearly enough. I have probably 1000 hrs on my panel and the IR seems no better than it was at 100hrs.That said, all of it has been easy to clear so it hasn't ruined any experiences for me.
I still enjoy the CNET settings the best so far but I have found that increasing the gamma to 2.2 and reducing the brightness to around 50 has really brought out the details in dark scenes. Contrast still seems best at 84.

Ice, solat152: FYI the right side vertical band I observed on my Vt50 55" when I first viewed it seems to have disappeared after the 100 hour break in period ( using varied content). Like you said, I could only see this right band issue when viewing the break-in slides--never when viewing normal content.
I am also using CNET settings and have noticed a significant PQ improvement over the other TV settings to include the supplied THX settings. Today I watched Mel Gibson's "Apocalypto" Blu-ray with CNET settings. WOW ! I'll try your gamma and brightness recommendations as well.
post #6789 of 13463
So, does the VT50 vary much from panel to panel? The reason I ask is that last year I bought a VT30 which had very loud buzzing (noticeable at 8' away) which I exchanged for another one (via Amazon), then the 2nd one had no buzzing but instead had bad blobbing. So I returned the 2nd and gave up on the VT30.

If I were to purchase a VT50 will I run into this problem again? I know people have complained about vertical bands, very minor buzzing, DSE, but are these more noticeable on certain panels? I'm contemplating buying the VT50 from a place with a high restocking fee and I'd have to pay shipping back, so I'd rather not have to return the TV.
post #6790 of 13463
Quote:
Originally Posted by beezar View Post

So, does the VT50 vary much from panel to panel?

It certainly varies from user to user. I'm less certain about panel to panel variation. Others will disagree.
Quote:
If I were to purchase a VT50 will I run into this problem again? I know people have complained about vertical bands, very minor buzzing, DSE, but are these more noticeable on certain panels? I'm contemplating buying the VT50 from a place with a high restocking fee and I'd have to pay shipping back, so I'd rather not have to return the TV.

Your mileage may vary. I'd seek a price match and buy from a better class of retailer, but that's just me.
post #6791 of 13463
I have 55vt50 newly purchased and want to enable the wifi, but it tells me to plug a wifi into a USB port. What doeS this mean? I saw no USB dongle or anything in the packing. I also thought wifi was built into the vt50's.

Please advise.
post #6792 of 13463
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdfein View Post

I have 55vt50 newly purchased and want to enable the wifi, but it tells me to plug a wifi into a USB port. What doeS this mean? I saw no USB dongle or anything in the packing. I also thought wifi was built into the vt50's.
Please advise.

Just hit the Menu button on the remote and scroll down to Network. The second item in the list is network connection. Make sure this is set to wireless. The next item down is wireless network settings. Select this and choose your wifi.
post #6793 of 13463
Thanks for replying...when I do just this (toggle from Ethernet to WiFi under Network)....I get an error that says.

"Connect a compatible WiFi adapter to the USB port".

And then it fails as there is nothing connected to the USB port and prompts me to "Retry or Cancel"....it then immediately flips back to Ethernet setting.

Has anyone else seen this? What am I doing incorrectly?
post #6794 of 13463
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdfein View Post

Thanks for replying...when I do just this (toggle from Ethernet to WiFi under Network)....I get an error that says.
"Connect a compatible WiFi adapter to the USB port".
And then it fails as there is nothing connected to the USB port and prompts me to "Retry or Cancel"....it then immediately flips back to Ethernet setting.
Has anyone else seen this? What am I doing incorrectly?
VT is supposed to have a wifi built in.
I don't have a VT50 so all I can say is look for an option to turn it on.
post #6795 of 13463
Quote:
Originally Posted by MUPPPP View Post

LOL I was thinking of doing this as well. Does it look ghetto? Can you even tell that you did it? I have a hard time doing this to a $3k TV, but that silver edge really reflects some daylight!

There is no way I can tell in my darken room. Wish I could post the photo to show you.

Use a brand new Sharpie Magnum and:

1. Hold it as you would normally do with any other pen. With the middle finger on the edge of the panel (for guiding) slowly and smoothly move the pen over the shiny trim. Try to do the whole side with one uninterupted line.

2. Let it dry for a few minutes then put on a second coat.

D.
post #6796 of 13463
Quote:
Originally Posted by fookoo_2010 View Post

I have the next generation 50" from your industrial plasma. There is no comparison between the two. The VT50 is in a totally different class. The fan doesn't bother me at all. As to your settings via THX Cinema mode resetting, you might try running all of your inputs prior to the VT50 into an AVR, then run that input into the VT50. Doing that, I have no such problem. As to your observation about the silver border, I am always in a darkened room so that it is not an issue. The one problem that I do have with the VT50 is occasional ghosting in 3D mode which Panasonic will have to resolve under warranty because my VT50 is less than 3 weeks old.

Thanks for the advise but my receiver has no hdmi connections.
D.
post #6797 of 13463
Um . Errr..
Dare I ask.
I know it's hard to take a pic when its glossy.

Does it come out looking black or chrome shadow ....with the sharpie method...
post #6798 of 13463
Okay, Iposted this on th Darblet thread, but thought it might collect comments here b/c many that post here have the Darblet and have reported specific issues.

I got the Darblet hooked up and, let me say, even on my lowly AT&T U-verse HD signal there is a noticeable improvement. That’s the good news.

Prior to Darbee-ization, I had the U-verse STB, Panasonic BMP BDT 210 blu-ray, and Sony 480p DVD/CD Megachanger feeding video/audio to my Pioneer Elite VSX-32 (AVR), which then delivered processed (Marvell Qdeo/1080p) or unprocessed (AVR on standby: video/audio pass-through) signals to my Panasonic TC-P55VT50 plasma display. All was right with the world, and every component played well with each other through HDMI cables (except component from the Sony). Once the Darblet was place between the VSX-32 and the VT50, I had to bid a sad farewell to the pass-through option and the audio return channel (ARC) for pass audio from the VT50 tuner or apps to the VSX-32 via HDMI. The latter was no surprise, but the former was a solid blow to the gut. I like the option of not having to turn on my surround system to watch the news or a sit-com. NO signal would be passed to the display without the AVR being powered up. It made no difference if the Darblet was "on" or “off.”

That brings up another issue of the Darblet appearing be always on; that is, the red LED is on regardless of whether you are processing (whatever%) the signal or not (0%). Another annoying problem is that the remote is terribly weak, buttons often have to be mashed multiple times, and I have not been able to activate the “menu” or “demo” using the remote even once. But after shutting of the ARC, unplugging and plugging components, a brief HDCP error message, a couple of magenta screens, spontaneous shut downs by the AVR and Darblet, I was able to watch some HD movies and football on Saturday and Sunday with reasonably satisfying results. Then, Sunday evening, after going out for dinner, we fired up the system to watch “Boardwalk Empire,” when suddenly, the lower half the screen started intermittently flashing white for a split second each time. Some times it would be multiple white bands, sometimes the entire lower half or third of the screen. This continue regardless of whether the Darblet was on (some%) or off (0%). Only shutting down the VSX-32 video processing made it go away. This is strange because everything worked fine for many hours before with the Marvell chip handling the scaling from 1080i to 1080p.

So let’s recap:
No video/audio pass-through
No ARC
Always "on" to some degree
Weak malfunctioning remote
Intermittent onscreen flashes

Is this thing a beta test unit? Isn't it suppose to be 1.4 compliant?
When it works, it does a nice job, but how many glitches it too many? Has anyone had similar issues with this processor?
post #6799 of 13463
Quote:
Originally Posted by dervish View Post

Thanks for the advise but my receiver has no hdmi connections.
D.
May be time to update the receiver then..........
post #6800 of 13463
Quote:
Originally Posted by garyxrreedy View Post

Anyone know how to disable the sound on the VT50. I have a Harmon Kardon sound bar speaker connected to the VT50 and is synched to the tv remote as it does not come with its own remote. TV sound needs to be off so that the Sound Bar works independently.link

Menu>Audio>Advanced Audio>TV Speakers
post #6801 of 13463
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxme View Post

Okay, Iposted this on th Darblet thread, but thought it might collect comments here b/c many that post here have the Darblet and have reported specific issues.
I got the Darblet hooked up and, let me say, even on my lowly AT&T U-verse HD signal there is a noticeable improvement. That’s the good news.
Prior to Darbee-ization, I had the U-verse STB, Panasonic BMP BDT 210 blu-ray, and Sony 480p DVD/CD Megachanger feeding video/audio to my Pioneer Elite VSX-32 (AVR), which then delivered processed (Marvell Qdeo/1080p) or unprocessed (AVR on standby: video/audio pass-through) signals to my Panasonic TC-P55VT50 plasma display. All was right with the world, and every component played well with each other through HDMI cables (except component from the Sony). Once the Darblet was place between the VSX-32 and the VT50, I had to bid a sad farewell to the pass-through option and the audio return channel (ARC) for pass audio from the VT50 tuner or apps to the VSX-32 via HDMI. The latter was no surprise, but the former was a solid blow to the gut. I like the option of not having to turn on my surround system to watch the news or a sit-com. NO signal would be passed to the display without the AVR being powered up. It made no difference if the Darblet was "on" or “off.”
That brings up another issue of the Darblet appearing be always on; that is, the red LED is on regardless of whether you are processing (whatever%) the signal or not (0%). Another annoying problem is that the remote is terribly weak, buttons often have to be mashed multiple times, and I have not been able to activate the “menu” or “demo” using the remote even once. But after shutting of the ARC, unplugging and plugging components, a brief HDCP error message, a couple of magenta screens, spontaneous shut downs by the AVR and Darblet, I was able to watch some HD movies and football on Saturday and Sunday with reasonably satisfying results. Then, Sunday evening, after going out for dinner, we fired up the system to watch “Boardwalk Empire,” when suddenly, the lower half the screen started intermittently flashing white for a split second each time. Some times it would be multiple white bands, sometimes the entire lower half or third of the screen. This continue regardless of whether the Darblet was on (some%) or off (0%). Only shutting down the VSX-32 video processing made it go away. This is strange because everything worked fine for many hours before with the Marvell chip handling the scaling from 1080i to 1080p.
So let’s recap:
No video/audio pass-through
No ARC
Always "on" to some degree
Weak malfunctioning remote
Intermittent onscreen flashes
Is this thing a beta test unit? Isn't it suppose to be 1.4 compliant?
When it works, it does a nice job, but how many glitches it too many? Has anyone had similar issues with this processor?



I have the darbee hooked up to my GT50 and haven't experienced anything you have mentioned. I have an Onkyo 360 and I get audio/video pass through, and ARC no problem.
It is perfect with my setup. Must be something or your end.
post #6802 of 13463
Still unable to get the WiFi on my 55vt50 to detect my router.

Has anyone documented any issue with a wifi connection to a uverse 2Wire 3801hgv??

My vt50 keeps saying to connect a compatible wireless adapter to a USB port, but wifi is built in?? Very frustrating.

Feel like I must be missing something silly.
post #6803 of 13463
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdfein View Post

Still unable to get the WiFi on my 55vt50 to detect my router.
Has anyone documented any issue with a wifi connection to a uverse 2Wire 3801hgv??
My vt50 keeps saying to connect a compatible wireless adapter to a USB port, but wifi is built in?? Very frustrating.
Feel like I must be missing something silly.

You most certainly do not need an adapter. Mine works just fine over WiFi (although I use wired ethernet, I have tested WiFi). There is no trick to it that I'm aware of, either -- but I have a Netgear router, not a 2wire, so I can't really help you much.
post #6804 of 13463
Quote:
Originally Posted by Latinoheat View Post

I have the darbee hooked up to my GT50 and haven't experienced anything you have mentioned. I have an Onkyo 360 and I get audio/video pass through, and ARC no problem.
It is perfect with my setup. Must be something or your end.

You have ARC running through the Darbee? It killed my ARC connection as well as Toppers.
post #6805 of 13463
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdfein View Post

Still unable to get the WiFi on my 55vt50 to detect my router.
Has anyone documented any issue with a wifi connection to a uverse 2Wire 3801hgv??
My vt50 keeps saying to connect a compatible wireless adapter to a USB port, but wifi is built in?? Very frustrating.
Feel like I must be missing something silly.

If your router's password or access code case sensitive? If so, you need to use the same upper/lower case characters in the TV's menu. This is a common oversight when connecting a new TV to the network (whether it's wired or wireless).
post #6806 of 13463
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdfein View Post

I have 55vt50 newly purchased and want to enable the wifi, but it tells me to plug a wifi into a USB port. What doeS this mean? I saw no USB dongle or anything in the packing. I also thought wifi was built into the vt50's.
Please advise.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gdfein View Post

Still unable to get the WiFi on my 55vt50 to detect my router.
Has anyone documented any issue with a wifi connection to a uverse 2Wire 3801hgv??
My vt50 keeps saying to connect a compatible wireless adapter to a USB port, but wifi is built in?? Very frustrating.
Feel like I must be missing something silly.

If it's asking for an adapter, then it sounds like something is wrong with the internal adapter- dead, loose/not connected. You might want to exchange that set or call Panasonic to get a tech to take a look.
post #6807 of 13463
New firmware is out today. States improvements to browser:
http://panasonic.jp/support/global/cs/tv/download/fw/america/down_na5.html
post #6808 of 13463
I agree with sheshe. My ST30 easily recognized my 2wire3801 with the tv's usb adapter, Just had to punch in the 10 digit number on the side of the router and it worked fine.

Either there's a setting to turn it on in the tv or it may be defective. You may want to try a full reset on the tv.
post #6809 of 13463
Quote:
Originally Posted by whipit View Post

I agree with sheshe. My ST30 easily recognized my 2wire3801 with the tv's usb adapter, Just had to punch in the 10 digit number on the side of the router and it worked fine.
Either there's a setting to turn it on in the tv or it may be defective. You may want to try a full reset on the tv.
Ditto ,except I didn't have to use a "USB adapter." The VT50 search found my Uverse wireless network and I punched in the 10 digit code.
Edited by Roxme - 9/18/12 at 8:56am
post #6810 of 13463
Quote:
Originally Posted by Latinoheat View Post

I have the darbee hooked up to my GT50 and haven't experienced anything you have mentioned. I have an Onkyo 360 and I get audio/video pass through, and ARC no problem.
It is perfect with my setup. Must be something or your end.
WOW! That would be great if I could get those issues resolved. What's your secret? I have read several post of no ARC support, but the pass/through issue is much more important to me. My HDMI cables are new and 1.4 compliant or they wouldn't have worked so well without the Darblet. I thought it might be a "handshake" issue, so I tryed power down (unplugging) the individual devices briefly. I don't know the proper sequence, so maybe I didn't do it correctly. Another thing I tried is unplugging and replugging the HDMI connections. Is there a guide for this procedure? Lastly, do you use the Onkyo for upscaling (1080p)? That seems to be causing my screen to blink intermittently with the Darblet in line.
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