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Official Panasonic VT50 owners thread - Page 246

post #7351 of 13477
I'm watching world series game 3 on fios fox HD in l.a. On some slo mo replay I see some bad flickering to the point where the screen is almost blinking rapidly. I know some flickering is normal on super slo mo but this is like a strobing light. I rewind the same shot using all the motion smoother settings from off to strong and see no difference.

Anyone else sees this?

This is my biggest problem with this set. It doesnt handles motion well at all. Unfortunately, I'm just really sensitive to this.
post #7352 of 13477
Quote:
Originally Posted by barth2k View Post

I'm watching world series game 3 on fios fox HD in l.a. On some slo mo replay I see some bad flickering to the point where the screen is almost blinking rapidly. I know some flickering is normal on super slo mo but this is like a strobing light. I rewind the same shot using all the motion smoother settings from off to strong and see no difference. Anyone else sees this?

Yes. I'm recording the game OTA on my Tivo and also on my 8300HD TWC DVR. I just rewound to where they played slow motion replays of Sandovol's hit and i'm seeing the rapid flickering strobing on my GT50. I replayed the same replays on my other TVs and the strobing is also present on my 7-year-old PX50U Plasma, my 26" HP/Sharp LCD TV, and on my little 13.3" LED TV on my desk, all exactly like it looks on my GT50. I ended up checking some other slo-mo replays and some of them strobe/pulse slowly while others strobe rapidly like flickering. It's obnoxious. But since i'm seeing it exactly the same on 4 very different TVs both and over antenna and cable, it's obviously coming from the broadcaster and not a problem with my TVs. I'm certain that your TV is just accurately displaying the content that you're feeding it.
post #7353 of 13477
I'm seeing it too, with a different Panny plasma. Who is your provider? I'm on Dish.

Thanks,
Duncan
post #7354 of 13477
Quote:
Originally Posted by barth2k View Post

This is my biggest problem with this set. It doesnt handles motion well at all. Unfortunately, I'm just really sensitive to this.

I think this is the first time I have ever heard anyone say a plasma didn't handle motion well. Now LCD, that's a different story.

I really have to believe the problem is with the source material, not the TV.

Michael
post #7355 of 13477
Quote:
Originally Posted by TopperMcFly View Post

Due to the overwhelming requests, here are my settings. These are the originals for my display and seem to perform far better than the corroborative Flavor 2 settings that I had previously posted. These will get your color extremely close. As far as everything else, your results will vary. These are being posted for those that asked for them. I am not interested in anything but fulfilling those requests.
As per usual, I have included both a Word doc as well as an XML version if you wish to upload via ControlCal
Topper out wink.gif
TopperRevE-Flavor1.xml 3k .xml file
Topper Day Night Rev E Flavor 1.doc 21k .doc file

In your attachment, I tried to adjust these 2 settings I've excerpted here:
Quote:
3:2 pulldown: On
24p Direct in: 60Hz * 60Hz seems to function as 96Hz does without introducing artifacts that may or may not be detected. But 96hz mode does provide slightly better blacks. So use 96hz if you do not perceive artifacts.

However, these 2 (3:2 pulldown & 24p) are grayed out. I've tried everything I can think of to make them adjustable, but no go. How does one adjust these two?
post #7356 of 13477
They are only available from a Blu-ray source, not from cable/sat.
post #7357 of 13477
Newbie here... Bought the 55 VT50. Just found out that my cable box only transmits in 1080i. I bought an HDMI cable that said 1080p on the box, not knowing the difference. Should I be using an 1080i HDMI cable and set my TV to 1080i to get the best possible picture? Will it really make a difference? Thanks.
post #7358 of 13477
Searched this thread for "IP control" and "RS-232" and came up with nothing. This years model dropped the RS-232 port, and yet apparently they are not allowing external systems to control it via IP (according to Savant). Only their own proprietary apps can control via IP.. That's hugely disappointing for any custom install. How are people getting around this? We are using IR emitters, but it's not attractive. Makes the VX300 more appealing.
post #7359 of 13477
Hi there!
any issues with this excellent tv and Med 1000x3D media player?
and frame skipping?

cheers
post #7360 of 13477
Quote:
Originally Posted by Summit 1 View Post

Newbie here... Bought the 55 VT50. Just found out that my cable box only transmits in 1080i. I bought an HDMI cable that said 1080p on the box, not knowing the difference. Should I be using an 1080i HDMI cable and set my TV to 1080i to get the best possible picture? Will it really make a difference? Thanks.

I'm sure the cable is probably fine.

Most HD cable stations broadcast in 720p or 1080i. Having the cable box output 1080p would only mean the cable box is doing the upscaling, and generally they are not as good at doing so as a display, video processor, or modern receiver. If you don't mind the slight delay from the TV converting each source signal, I would set the cable box to output native resolution for each channel, and allow the TV to convert it. You don't typically set a resolution on the TV itself, rather the TV will handle the source signal as it should.

You can modify the aspect format for each signal resolution, however. You should channel cycle through signals of each resolution and adjust the aspect format to give you the most picture area while retaining natural proportion. (Typically Just, you'll need to experiment on that with varying signal resolutions).
post #7361 of 13477
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3D Monkey View Post

I'm seeing it too, with a different Panny plasma. Who is your provider? I'm on Dish. Thanks, Duncan
He has Verizon FIOS. It's kinda funny how people see such things on one or two scenes and immediately assume that it may be a problem with the TV.
post #7362 of 13477
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord Vader View Post

I guess I should have asked if it would be possible to open a browser like IE, Firefox, or something similar on this TV. Doesn't sound like that's possible. If it was, I'd be able to watch my Slingbox through the browser, which is what I do when I'm watching it via a PC.
Laptops are pretty darn cheap now, buy one with an HDMI connection wink.gif Then use any browser you like.
post #7363 of 13477
Quote:
Originally Posted by facesnorth View Post

I'm sure the cable is probably fine.
Most HD cable stations broadcast in 720p or 1080i. Having the cable box output 1080p would only mean the cable box is doing the upscaling, and generally they are not as good at doing so as a display, video processor, or modern receiver. If you don't mind the slight delay from the TV converting each source signal, I would set the cable box to output native resolution for each channel, and allow the TV to convert it. You don't typically set a resolution on the TV itself, rather the TV will handle the source signal as it should.
You can modify the aspect format for each signal resolution, however. You should channel cycle through signals of each resolution and adjust the aspect format to give you the most picture area while retaining natural proportion. (Typically Just, you'll need to experiment on that with varying signal resolutions).
Thanks facesnorth. I was just concerened because I watch mostly SD and HD about 50/50. I watch the occasional Blue ray. I watch no 3D at all. I mostly watch sports programing and I dont want any motion blur. Thats one of the reasons that I bought the Plasma instead of the LED. Sorry about all the basic questions but Im totally new to all this HDTV stuff. This is my first one (long story). So basically keep the 1080p HMII cable or should I exchange it for 1080i cable?
post #7364 of 13477
Quote:
Originally Posted by Summit 1 View Post

Thanks facesnorth. I was just concerened because I watch mostly SD and HD about 50/50. I watch the occasional Blue ray. I watch no 3D at all. I mostly watch sports programing and I dont want any motion blur. Thats one of the reasons that I bought the Plasma instead of the LED. Sorry about all the basic questions but Im totally new to all this HDTV stuff. This is my first one (long story). So basically keep the 1080p HMII cable or should I exchange it for 1080i cable?

I find HDMI cables to be mostly the same. You'll find many big box stores will overcharge for HDMI cables. Buy one from bluejeanscable, or even monoprice and save a bundle. They all do 1080p.
post #7365 of 13477
HDMI cables are the same. No, really, they are the same.

Read the above again.

They are not mostly the same.

They are the same.

Unless you HDMI cable is giving you visible or audible flaws, like sound dropouts or "sparklies", the cable is fine. No other cable will improve "resolution", "color", "contrast" or anything.

I promise you this is true.

Buy the cheapest decent cable that you can find. (Often Monoprice, although other suppliers are well liked and make decent cables too.)
post #7366 of 13477
Quote:
Originally Posted by rogo View Post

HDMI cables are the same. No, really, they are the same.
Read the above again.
They are not mostly the same.
They are the same.
Unless you HDMI cable is giving you visible or audible flaws, like sound dropouts or "sparklies", the cable is fine. No other cable will improve "resolution", "color", "contrast" or anything.
I promise you this is true.
Buy the cheapest decent cable that you can find. (Often Monoprice, although other suppliers are well liked and make decent cables too.)
Rogo.. Thanks for helping me out. So should I just return the 1080p cable and swap it out for a 1080i cable? Will I see any picture quality diffrence watching SD/HD sports programing? Thanks.
post #7367 of 13477
Quote:
Originally Posted by rogo View Post

HDMI cables are the same. No, really, they are the same.
Read the above again.
They are not mostly the same.
They are the same.
Unless you HDMI cable is giving you visible or audible flaws, like sound dropouts or "sparklies", the cable is fine. No other cable will improve "resolution", "color", "contrast" or anything.
I promise you this is true.
Buy the cheapest decent cable that you can find. (Often Monoprice, although other suppliers are well liked and make decent cables too.)

I am, however, a great fan of Monoprice Redmere cables - and I am only using 6 ft lengths where Redmere will not be of value. What I like about them is their thinness and, what with the Panasonics having their HDMI ports close to the edge of the TV, the thin cables look far better aesthetically as they do not jut out from the edge (I really don't want to put stress on the HDMI ports) and drape down nicely as opposed to the chunkiness of standard HDMI cables. For $15 a pop, I think the aesthetic value is money well spent.
post #7368 of 13477
Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post

I ended up checking some other slo-mo replays and some of them strobe/pulse slowly while others strobe rapidly like flickering. It's obnoxious.
This is a side effect of the ultra-high frame rate camera. My local RSN has used this camera for home games for nearly 2 years, and I've seen it quite a bit.

Basically, what you are seeing is the refresh rate of scoreboards and other devices, which look steady to eyes and regular cameras, but in reality turn off and on very quickly (likely 60Hz).

It is definitely not an issue with any display, although the accuracy of the VT50 can exaggerate the effect.
post #7369 of 13477
Quote:
Originally Posted by rogo View Post

HDMI cables are the same. No, really, they are the same.
Read the above again.
They are not mostly the same.
They are the same.
Unless you HDMI cable is giving you visible or audible flaws, like sound dropouts or "sparklies", the cable is fine. No other cable will improve "resolution", "color", "contrast" or anything.
I promise you this is true.
Buy the cheapest decent cable that you can find. (Often Monoprice, although other suppliers are well liked and make decent cables too.)

That is a very broad and general statement... The quality and gauge of wire can affect your end signal as well as the RF rejection built into the cables. Jus my opinion. You can find affordable HDMI cables that perform in every category, but you can also find cables that fail but are advertised as 1.4a/b compliant.
post #7370 of 13477
Quote:
Originally Posted by Summit 1 View Post

Rogo.. Thanks for helping me out. So should I just return the 1080p cable and swap it out for a 1080i cable? Will I see any picture quality diffrence watching SD/HD sports programing? Thanks.

There's no such thing as a p or i cable. They are HDMI cables and you want them to say "high speed". An 8' cable costs around 4 bucks at MonoPrice dot com

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024008&p_id=4958&seq=1&format=2
post #7371 of 13477
Quote:
Originally Posted by nabsltd View Post

This is a side effect of the ultra-high frame rate camera. My local RSN has used this camera for home games for nearly 2 years, and I've seen it quite a bit.
Basically, what you are seeing is the refresh rate of scoreboards and other devices, which look steady to eyes and regular cameras, but in reality turn off and on very quickly (likely 60Hz).
It is definitely not an issue with any display, although the accuracy of the VT50 can exaggerate the effect.

If the strobe effect is consistent then perhaps you are correct. If erratic, the strobes are probably in fact strobes, arena strobes to be exact, the bane of TV hockey fans, overhead lights electronically connected to cameras. The cameramen pay to play.
post #7372 of 13477
Quote:
Originally Posted by nabsltd View Post

This is a side effect of the ultra-high frame rate camera. My local RSN has used this camera for home games for nearly 2 years, and I've seen it quite a bit.
Basically, what you are seeing is the refresh rate of scoreboards and other devices, which look steady to eyes and regular cameras, but in reality turn off and on very quickly (likely 60Hz).
It is definitely not an issue with any display, although the accuracy of the VT50 can exaggerate the effect.

Good point. I saw strobing during the Olympics, and never thought for a moment it was my TV. It was obvious that it was the arc lamps used to light the arena. I guess they are still using magnetic ballasts, and the lights themselves will strobe at 120 Hz. Film that with a high speed camera, and you will see it.

Michael
post #7373 of 13477
Quote:
Originally Posted by mnc View Post

They are only available from a Blu-ray source, not from cable/sat.

Well, when my BD player is the source, these settings are still showing grayed out. frown.gif
post #7374 of 13477
Quote:
Originally Posted by rogo View Post

HDMI cables are the same. No, really, they are the same.
Read the above again.
They are not mostly the same.
They are the same.
Unless you HDMI cable is giving you visible or audible flaws, like sound dropouts or "sparklies", the cable is fine. No other cable will improve "resolution", "color", "contrast" or anything.
I promise you this is true.
Buy the cheapest decent cable that you can find. (Often Monoprice, although other suppliers are well liked and make decent cables too.)

I think this is a bit over-zealous. Yes, digital is digital. But there are certainly differences in build quality. As well as different applications with regards to signal amplification. I'm going to stick to my original statement here that they are mostly the same. I'm in the business, and have used many cables. Monoprice cables are great for the money, but I have had several fail on me, and the failure rate for me has been higher than when using other cables. I would never again run a long monoprice cable through a wall. But for 3-12' cables, or anything easily changeable such as the setup that Summit 1 likely has, certainly I would suggest starting with one.
post #7375 of 13477
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord Vader View Post

Well, when my BD player is the source, these settings are still showing grayed out. frown.gif

Make sure the BD player is set to output 24p, as that is the only way you can access the 96hz option. To access the 3:2 pulldown option, you have to feed the TV an interlaced signal, so either set the BD player to output 1080i, or use a set-top box. Also, make sure there isn't something else in the chain (AVR, etc.) that is scaling and deinterlacing the signal, or the options will be greyed out as well.
post #7376 of 13477
Well, I got the 24p option to show, but the only choices to which to adjust it are 48 and 60Hz. There is no 96Hz option.

BTW, what does 3:2 pulldown do
post #7377 of 13477
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

If the strobe effect is consistent then perhaps you are correct.
It is consistent, but very strange.

I frame-stepped through it, and it has a 2:3 cadence. This is bizzare, in that no matter what the original rate of the high-speed camera, it should capture progressively and in digital, which could then just be shown at 60fps, giving the ultra-slow motion effect. A 2:3 cadence only exists because of having to fit 24fps into a 30fps medium while maintaining audio sync. Even an interlaced high-speed camera could just be de-interlaced with no frame duplication, as there is no need to maintain any "reference" rate.

Regardless, the brightness "strobing" that we are seeing happens in a 36 frame cycle from dark to dark.
post #7378 of 13477
Is this normal, or does anyone else see this effect ? :

When running the "Scrolling Bar", do you see black pixel trails to the right side of the WHITE area as the black rolls by ? I think technically they are black pixels that are not turning white fast enough as the are turns from black to white 1 step as it moves. They are black and they LOOK like trials of the black area.

Is this normal ? Or only this TV ? I'm getting a little nervous here, as that doesn't seem like something that should be normal, also I don't see how that would not effect picture quality in a movie if lets say per chance the movie was doing a similar thing for some reason.

Any help is appreciated -
post #7379 of 13477
My recommendation: Never run the scrolling bar. It serves no real purpose.
post #7380 of 13477
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bamadawg_63 View Post

That is a very broad and general statement... The quality and gauge of wire can affect your end signal as well as the RF rejection built into the cables. Jus my opinion. You can find affordable HDMI cables that perform in every category, but you can also find cables that fail but are advertised as 1.4a/b compliant.

No, it's a very accurate statement.

HDMI is a digital signal. If you are not seeing any artifacts, you have all the RF rejection you need. This is not an analog signal. Every bit of marketing speak you have been duped by to believe you need some "higher grade" of cable is crap. As one of the lower posts below describes, any HDMI cable rated for "high speed" is sufficient to carry all HDMI signals.

http://www.bluejeanscable.com/articles/hdmi-1-4-cable.htm
Quote:
So, when you're looking at a cable, the version number is irrelevant, but if you're planning to use the cable in a "high-speed" application, the distinction between standard and high-speed HDMI cable is potentially relevant. It should be added, though, that there is typically a good deal of performance headroom available, and a cable which is certified only for standard speed may work at high speed applications as well; there's no harm in trying, and failure generally is obvious: the screen will be peppered with bit-error dropouts if the cable isn't handling the bitrate well.

Those are the facts. From a company that actually sells somewhat pricey cables.

Learn them.
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