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Official Panasonic VT50 owners thread - Page 250

post #7471 of 12304
11/7/12 at 1:29am
Quote:
Originally Posted by nabsltd View Post

I wouldn't make IR on the VT50 a consideration, based on my experience..

Nor would I. I've yet to detect a hint of it despite trying hard to find evidence.
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post #7472 of 12304
11/7/12 at 5:02am
Quote:
Originally Posted by fookoo_2010 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Summit 1 View Post

Newbie here.........65VT50.....What can I expect from ISF modes or ISF calibration as far as brightness is concerned? I would like to get the panel to be allot brighter. Would this bypass the THX bright room and other settings to achieve even higher brightness levels? Just wondering if it’s worth the time and money? Thanks.

Your expectations may be too high from what you would expect from a professional ISF mode calibration. It won't come close to matching THX bright mode. The most "accurate" mode is ISF night and that does not seem to be your criteria for buying a 65VT50. So save your money and get what you want, after all, that is all that matters.

 

Where did you come up with this theory?

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post #7473 of 12304
11/7/12 at 6:55am
I've seen IR on mine but it goes away quickly. However, I've been testing mine for the last few months. Ever since Panasonic has issued a replacement for a fault in my VT50 (back in August, to receive the new one next week), I've been gaming more frequently and for longer hours on my VT50 then I would if this was the one I would keep. Not one sign of IR from gaming at all. Of course my contrast and brightness settings are quite low for gaming, but that's what I've grown used to over the years. Better safe then sorry. But glad I can report that I have no stubborn IR on my VT50 and probably won't on the new one.

Worst IR I saw was with a VT30 I owned and the end credits of Hugo, with the white square outline around the credits. That caused some IR on that set, but it cleared in 5 min.
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post #7474 of 12304
11/7/12 at 7:05am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark_b View Post

I've seen IR on mine but it goes away quickly. However, I've been testing mine for the last few months. Ever since Panasonic has issued a replacement for a fault in my VT50 (back in August, to receive the new one next week), I've been gaming more frequently and for longer hours on my VT50 then I would if this was the one I would keep. Not one sign of IR from gaming at all. Of course my contrast and brightness settings are quite low for gaming, but that's what I've grown used to over the years. Better safe then sorry. But glad I can report that I have no stubborn IR on my VT50 and probably won't on the new one.
Worst IR I saw was with a VT30 I owned and the end credits of Hugo, with the white square outline around the credits. That caused some IR on that set, but it cleared in 5 min.

Why is it that during credits we see faint, white boxing around each line of the credits? It doesnt happen with all credits, but when I pop in a DVD there are times were I see this around certain text (FBI warning in the beginning and end credits).
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post #7475 of 12304
11/7/12 at 10:07am
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoelxD View Post

Is anyone else having a problem with customizing the label names for the individual inputs ? I named mine, and they worked (stayed up as the names I made) for a couple weeks. Just tonight though, I noticed they all defaulted to CABLE in all caps. I was like, ok, weird. I went into "edit names" or whatever and seen my custom names in the choices to label. So I chose them. ONCE I went back to input choices, they were all defaulted back to CABLE again !!!!

SO then I renamed them all again, same thing happens. But the new names I make don't stay as choices like my old ones did. EITHER way no matter what I chose, it went back to CABLE instantly once I went to pick a input to source from again.

Ok, so then as a test I just stuck to choosing their premade labels (CABLE, DVD, Etc...) and those stay fine. So WTF is going on ?

Anyone ? Please help, as this is beginning to worry me -
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post #7476 of 12304
11/7/12 at 11:22am
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoelxD View Post

Anyone ? Please help, as this is beginning to worry me -

I don't know, but sounds like the flash that would store the values isn't doing it.

Call Viera Support, I think.

It seems like a really small glitch and nothing to really worry about.
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post #7477 of 12304
11/7/12 at 1:11pm
If you had a choice between the 55inch VT and the 60 inch GT at the same price approximately which would you choose. Thanks Don
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post #7478 of 12304
11/7/12 at 1:13pm
55VT. Don't sacrifice quality for size
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post #7479 of 12304
11/7/12 at 1:31pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmay91472 View Post

What are the basic settings for thx cinema 3d? Such as contrast, brightness, color, tint, sharpness? Just needed to confirm something. Thx.
Anyone able to check for these values real fast on their set up? Just trying to figure out the main differences between thx cinema 3d and the custom mode when they are both set to default.
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post #7480 of 12304
11/7/12 at 1:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by nabsltd View Post

I wouldn't make IR on the VT50 a consideration, based on my experience.
I had left my VT50 showing my HTPC because I knew the screensaver would kick in after 3 minutes. The PC locked up hard and when I came back several hours later, the Windows desktop was being displayed with an explorer window in the center. After a hard reset, I logged in and could still see the explorer window displayed on the solid desktop background. Not just "sort of see it", but I could still read the file names. The set had less than 200 hours on it, and I was scared that I had ruined my almost new TV.
So, I fired up the break-in slides, and could see the desktop pretty well in most of them (but couldn't read everything like I could with the "matching" background), and a single pass (about 20 minutes) had the IR reduced a lot, so I ran the moving bar one cycle (15 minutes). After that, I fired up the slides again and couldn't see anything left over. I switched over to the HTPC desktop and still couldn't see anything, even though that was where it had showed the most.
When less than an hour of other content removed what looked like IR from the days of dedicated apps running on monochrome monitors where you could always read the main screen even when the power was off, I stopped being worried about IR on the VT50.

Thanks Nabsltd and Rogo. Frankly, I'm fine with the IR issue for the Panny's and the buzzing for the Samsung's. Those issues aren't going to sway me either way. What does worry me is what the picture is going to look like from Comcast. I have read that the Samsung handles crappy input better than the Panasonic. This worries me since the majority of my viewing would be cable. But I do have the Denon 4311CI which I have read has a great video processor. Would that help with the picture from my cable source? Thanks.
Edited by hogues - 11/7/12 at 5:10pm
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post #7481 of 12304
11/7/12 at 6:36pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by hogues View Post

What does worry me is what the picture is going to look like from Comcast.
Unless I get within a couple feet of the 55" VT50, the SD channels from DirecTV look fine. Yes, they are obviously SD, but I don't think the VT50 makes them worse than any other display...they just look SD.

Any display that processes a picture enough to make it hard to tell SD from HD (or low bitrate HD from Blu-Ray) is going to make high quality sources look worse, unless you tell your cable box to output the source resolution (which should allow at least some more intelligent processing decisions to be made).
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post #7482 of 12304
11/7/12 at 7:05pm
I would appreciate the forum's help on this..

I have a VT50 and Marantz SR7005 with Direct TV, with all HDMI connected through the Marantz. (Marantz HDMI output connected to HDMI2 on TV)

I am trying to get the HDMI video and sound to pass through, so I can watch TV with Directv without having the sound through the speakers connected to the Marantz. (TV speakers only)

I have tried various settings between the TV and Marantz without success. Any help would be extremely appreciated...

Thanks
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post #7483 of 12304
11/7/12 at 7:41pm
What does contour emphasis do?
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post #7484 of 12304
11/7/12 at 9:01pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by hogues View Post

Hey, everybody. It's time for me to make my decision and I've narrowed it down to the e8000 and the VT50. I know about the possible ir for the VT50 and the possible buzzing and the black levels for the Sammy. What concerns me about the VT 50 is how it handles cable signals. From what I've read, it seems that the Sammy handles poor quality signals better and I watch a lot of sports. But if I have a Denon 4311, would that matter? I'm a little lost when it comes to this so any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
VT50 is the better set for sure and about the same cost. All plasma's have IR to some degree. IR goes away so in the end who cares ? I am not so sure if the Samsung does a better job with poor feeds, put in poor quality and that is what you will get out too. Buy the VT50 wink.gif
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post #7485 of 12304
11/7/12 at 9:32pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by hogues View Post

Thanks Nabsltd and Rogo. Frankly, I'm fine with the IR issue for the Panny's and the buzzing for the Samsung's. Those issues aren't going to sway me either way. What does worry me is what the picture is going to look like from Comcast. I have read that the Samsung handles crappy input better than the Panasonic. This worries me since the majority of my viewing would be cable. But I do have the Denon 4311CI which I have read has a great video processor. Would that help with the picture from my cable source? Thanks.

I have fios, which is supposed to have pretty good PQ, and a lot of it does not look very good. I'm particularly bothered by motion blur, but it seems like I'm alone. People here will tell you the Panny is very accurate, which is a nice way of saying it will show subpar content as is, warts and all.

I've only seen the samsung in store and it looks better side by side with the Panny (with cable channels)..

I don't want to discourage you by any means, because the Panny beats the Samsung easily with bluray. And your denon may eliminate the one weakness altogether.

My 2c: buy the Panny from a local store with good return policy and try it out. If Comcast looks acceptable, then you're all set.

Finally, realize Samsung price is fixed. The dealer cannot discount it. With Panny, you have room for price matching.
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post #7486 of 12304
11/7/12 at 10:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rogo View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoelxD View Post

Anyone ? Please help, as this is beginning to worry me -

I don't know, but sounds like the flash that would store the values isn't doing it.

Call Viera Support, I think.

It seems like a really small glitch and nothing to really worry about.

Thanks Rogo, guess thats what I'll have to do. After buying the TV, did you (or anyone reading this) ever connect it to the internet ? Then get offered the "Firmware Upgrade" ? Then do it ? Cause I did that, and it seems to be acting this way since I did that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by donaudio View Post

If you had a choice between the 55inch VT and the 60 inch GT at the same price approximately which would you choose. Thanks Don
VT Series all the way. Not only PQ (which I admit is possibly splitting hairs), but for me, the ISFccc calibration ability is the main reason.
Quote:
Originally Posted by adupree View Post

Don't sacrifice quality for size
Try to tell women that !!! eek.gifbiggrin.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by hogues View Post

What does worry me is what the picture is going to look like from Comcast.
To be honest, I don't think this is a Panasonic thing, but I have Comcast, and just upgraded my box and signal(s) to HD, made sure they gave me the HDMI box, etc.. and I am totally let down by "Cable HD". I think it is a pseudo version of HD IMO. But again, I think we have little control over that or making it any better. I notice some channels look better than others. Then it hit me, you can't make HD outta thin air from something that wasn't HD before. I think Comcast (and all cable companies) does this to have more "HD channels"... so unless the source was really shot in HD, and then is really being broadcasted from the CHANNEL (not Comcast/DirectTV, Dish, etc.., but channel) then it comes across as a pseudo HD to me. Some channels though really shine !
Quote:
Originally Posted by hogues View Post

But I do have the Denon 4311CI which I have read has a great video processor. Would that help with the picture from my cable source? Thanks.
No. Not IMO. Again, you can't make crap look like better crap. It can only look as good as it original was (at best). So this will depend on each and every channel's source material AND what level of "HD" they chose to broadcast at.
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post #7487 of 12304
11/7/12 at 11:56pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoelxD View Post

Thanks Rogo, guess thats what I'll have to do. After buying the TV, did you (or anyone reading this) ever connect it to the internet ? Then get offered the "Firmware Upgrade" ?

Yes, I have upgraded the firmware since getting the TV. That said, I've never tried to name the inputs. I only really use HDMI 1 (occasionally HDMI 2) and the default names are fine for me.
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post #7488 of 12304
11/8/12 at 12:36am
Quote:
Originally Posted by TWD View Post

What does contour emphasis do?
that appears to be an edge enhancement, similar to sharpening.
i notice it adds artifacts to a resolution test pattern just like turning up the sharpness setting - so best to turn that off and use sharpness at zero for no such artifacts.
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post #7489 of 12304
11/8/12 at 4:53am
Thanks for the input everybody, it's really helped.
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post #7490 of 12304
11/8/12 at 5:29am
Quote:
Originally Posted by BriscoCountyJr View Post

that appears to be an edge enhancement, similar to sharpening.
i notice it adds artifacts to a resolution test pattern just like turning up the sharpness setting - so best to turn that off and use sharpness at zero for no such artifacts.

On a multiburst pattern, it's surprising how colors shift when sharpness gets above 12.

I'd recommend not going over 12.
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post #7491 of 12304
11/8/12 at 11:45am
Can anyone tell me how much line bleed is normal? Is there a test maybe to verify if it is too much? I can see it in quite some content. Becoming a bit ocd with the tv but I just want to make sure I got a good panel.
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post #7492 of 12304
11/9/12 at 5:53am
Could one of you please direct me to the thread(s) discussing 3D glasses compatible with the VT50?
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post #7493 of 12304
11/9/12 at 9:14am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jh901 View Post

Could one of you please direct me to the thread(s) discussing 3D glasses compatible with the VT50?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007EHI1DK/ref=wms_ohs_product

Should you buy some other brand, it may not be compatible with the 2012 VT50. Given the cost of the VT50, it seems to be penny-wise and pound foolish to buy some other brand. Read the comments.

However, if you insist:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10909&cs_id=1090901&p_id=9461&seq=1&format=2

Returning something to Monoprice is a bit of a hassle because it will cost you postage and having to go down to the post office. There would seem to be no one pair of 3D glasses that will work across all Panasonic 3D TVs. The 2011 Panasonic active shutter glasses do not work with the 2012 3D Panasonic TVs.
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post #7494 of 12304
11/9/12 at 10:26am
Quote:
Originally Posted by fookoo_2010 View Post

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007EHI1DK/ref=wms_ohs_product
Should you buy some other brand, it may not be compatible with the 2012 VT50. Given the cost of the VT50, it seems to be penny-wise and pound foolish to buy some other brand. Read the comments.
However, if you insist:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10909&cs_id=1090901&p_id=9461&seq=1&format=2
Returning something to Monoprice is a bit of a hassle because it will cost you postage and having to go down to the post office. There would seem to be no one pair of 3D glasses that will work across all Panasonic 3D TVs. The 2011 Panasonic active shutter glasses do not work with the 2012 3D Panasonic TVs.

We have these along with the Panny glasses.

http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SSG-4100GB-Active-Glasses-Models/dp/B007K9P7H0/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1352485550&sr=1-1&keywords=samsung+3d+glasses+2012

Much cheaper and work just as well.
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post #7495 of 12304
11/9/12 at 11:41am
Well, amazing news guys. Remember that trail of pixels I was worried about on the scrolling bar as it moved ? Well its completely gone now !! Razor sharp line moving across the screen ! Wondering why or how that happened, but we're pretty happy about that. And either way, we didn't see it in normal content. Just reporting it.

So that is good news - Bad news coming below - (which is why I even ran the scroller in the first place to accidently find this good news out)
Quote:
Originally Posted by nabsltd View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by hogues View Post

I know about the possible ir for the VT50
I wouldn't make IR on the VT50 a consideration, based on my experience.

I had left my VT50 showing my HTPC because I knew the screensaver would kick in after 3 minutes. The PC locked up hard and when I came back several hours later, the Windows desktop was being displayed with an explorer window in the center. After a hard reset, I logged in and could still see the explorer window displayed on the solid desktop background. Not just "sort of see it", but I could still read the file names. The set had less than 200 hours on it, and I was scared that I had ruined my almost new TV.

So, I fired up the break-in slides, and could see the desktop pretty well in most of them (but couldn't read everything like I could with the "matching" background), and a single pass (about 20 minutes) had the IR reduced a lot, so I ran the moving bar one cycle (15 minutes). After that, I fired up the slides again and couldn't see anything left over. I switched over to the HTPC desktop and still couldn't see anything, even though that was where it had showed the most.

When less than an hour of other content removed what looked like IR from the days of dedicated apps running on monochrome monitors where you could always read the main screen even when the power was off, I stopped being worried about IR on the VT50.

So your saying running the slides will help IR ? Cause despite some peoples non-belief about IR or BI, I am appalled , and sad to report that after literally 1 hour (ONE HOUR) of watching The History Channel, we had the H and History IR'ed into the screen pretty bad. Could see it on other content, so this was my first experience with this like this so bad. I was amazed. We tried watching other content for a few hours (THREE HOURS), still could see it ! I ran the scroll bar (which is when I discover the good news about the pixel trails being gone) about 4 times in a row (ONE HOUR) - its still there. We eventually had to go to bed. Its still there today, and now I wish the scroller bar could be set to "infinity" cause I'd like something I could set it on and walk away for the day with it one constantly. Guess I gotta bring back over my pixel flipper. But this is also why I ask if you feel the slide will do it any good.

I just find it absolutely ridiculous that IN ONE HOUR, IR can set in that takes DAYS TO REPAIR. I also find it ridiculous that The History Channels logo, unlike every other channel's is so bright and full color. It absurd. I really wish we all could team up and write these channels and explain IR and BI to them, and say, a logo is cool, but grey it out a lot and make it about 50% translucent. A lot of channels do have it like that, and kudos to them. But the History channel and CNN need to understand.... OR be sued for people's new TV's !

We are writing out letter/email today - how about any of you ? Please. I figure a Plasma TV thread is the perfect place to start this campaign. So far I got The History Channel, and CNN as the most obtrusive IR/BI Logos. Remember, we are not asking them to totally remove these logo screen stamps (cause they never will do that), BUT all we are asking is they become grayed out (no color) and also be 50% translucent. Channels G4 and AMC are perfect examples of channels doing a correct IR/BI safe logo screen stamp.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rogo View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoelxD View Post

Thanks Rogo, guess thats what I'll have to do. After buying the TV, did you (or anyone reading this) ever connect it to the internet ? Then get offered the "Firmware Upgrade" ?

Yes, I have upgraded the firmware since getting the TV. That said, I've never tried to name the inputs. I only really use HDMI 1 (occasionally HDMI 2) and the default names are fine for me.
K, thanks for this confirmation. I still haven't called Panasonic. Gonna try that today. Just trippin on our IR (hopefully only IR) we got yesterday. Been trying to erase it ever since, no luck. All in 1 hour of a show ! (read above post if you care to).

Bad thing about this guys is, The History Channel is my moms favorite channel. She would like to watch it for hours everyday. Now, even if we do get rid of this IR, she obviously wont be able to. Lets think about this properly here, If 1 hour of viewing The History Channel IR'ed the tv so bad that it is taking days of constant medicine to repair it... Then how would she watch a couple hours one day, and then want to watch it AGAIN the next day BEFORE the time it took to completely rid the IR ? This would compound into BI for sure.

mad.gif She's already talking about trading it in and getting the TV I got. At this point, IDK what to say to her.
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post #7496 of 12304
11/9/12 at 12:03pm
I have read that others use the 3d adjustment and set it to +1 to get a little extra pop out. I don't mind the extra pop out that setting gives, but my question is how do you get the tv to keep that setting? Everytime I set it there, it goes back to the default settings once the tv gets turned off. Have others got the adjustment to stay or do you have to set it everytime?
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post #7497 of 12304
11/9/12 at 12:52pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoelxD View Post

Well, amazing news guys. Remember that trail of pixels I was worried about on the scrolling bar as it moved ? Well its completely gone now !! Razor sharp line moving across the screen ! Wondering why or how that happened, but we're pretty happy about that. And either way, we didn't see it in normal content. Just reporting it.
So that is good news - Bad news coming below - (which is why I even ran the scroller in the first place to accidently find this good news out)
So your saying running the slides will help IR ? Cause despite some peoples non-belief about IR or BI, I am appalled , and sad to report that after literally 1 hour (ONE HOUR) of watching The History Channel, we had the H and History IR'ed into the screen pretty bad. Could see it on other content, so this was my first experience with this like this so bad. I was amazed. We tried watching other content for a few hours (THREE HOURS), still could see it ! I ran the scroll bar (which is when I discover the good news about the pixel trails being gone) about 4 times in a row (ONE HOUR) - its still there. We eventually had to go to bed. Its still there today, and now I wish the scroller bar could be set to "infinity" cause I'd like something I could set it on and walk away for the day with it one constantly. Guess I gotta bring back over my pixel flipper. But this is also why I ask if you feel the slide will do it any good.
I just find it absolutely ridiculous that IN ONE HOUR, IR can set in that takes DAYS TO REPAIR. I also find it ridiculous that The History Channels logo, unlike every other channel's is so bright and full color. It absurd. I really wish we all could team up and write these channels and explain IR and BI to them, and say, a logo is cool, but grey it out a lot and make it about 50% translucent. A lot of channels do have it like that, and kudos to them. But the History channel and CNN need to understand.... OR be sued for people's new TV's !
We are writing out letter/email today - how about any of you ? Please. I figure a Plasma TV thread is the perfect place to start this campaign. So far I got The History Channel, and CNN as the most obtrusive IR/BI Logos. Remember, we are not asking them to totally remove these logo screen stamps (cause they never will do that), BUT all we are asking is they become grayed out (no color) and also be 50% translucent. Channels G4 and AMC are perfect examples of channels doing a correct IR/BI safe logo screen stamp.
K, thanks for this confirmation. I still haven't called Panasonic. Gonna try that today. Just trippin on our IR (hopefully only IR) we got yesterday. Been trying to erase it ever since, no luck. All in 1 hour of a show ! (read above post if you care to).
Bad thing about this guys is, The History Channel is my moms favorite channel. She would like to watch it for hours everyday. Now, even if we do get rid of this IR, she obviously wont be able to. Lets think about this properly here, If 1 hour of viewing The History Channel IR'ed the tv so bad that it is taking days of constant medicine to repair it... Then how would she watch a couple hours one day, and then want to watch it AGAIN the next day BEFORE the time it took to completely rid the IR ? This would compound into BI for sure.
mad.gif She's already talking about trading it in and getting the TV I got. At this point, IDK what to say to her.

I use the zoom feature a lot and find that you can crop out logos on most channels by doing so. Of course, a lot of other stuff gets cropped out too but this is just broadcast TV we're talking about so it doesn't bother me.
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post #7498 of 12304
11/9/12 at 12:59pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoelxD View Post

So your saying running the slides will help IR ?
With some types of IR, slides will help.

Like the moving bar, the slides will exercise every pixel evenly, and because the slides are varied in color, it will help get pixels back to their normal state. The moving bar has the advantage of quickly going from full on to full off, which should do the job more quickly, but slides have the advantage of being able to run forever. If you set the "display interval" to one of the faster settings, it should be more effective.
Quote:
Cause despite some peoples non-belief about IR or BI, I am appalled , and sad to report that after literally 1 hour (ONE HOUR) of watching The History Channel, we had the H and History IR'ed into the screen pretty bad.
What settings were you using? The most important are contrast and brightness, but panel brightness, CATS, contour emphasis, and sharpness can all have an effect. For example, in a bright room, CATS will up the overall brightness of the panel, and a logo can get more defined if sharpness or contour emphasis are high.

If you are using one of the posted calibrations (or have had your display calibrated), the settings shouldn't be the reason for the IR you are seeing. Otherwise, I'd suspect that settings led to the quick, persistent IR.
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post #7499 of 12304
11/9/12 at 3:59pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by erick.s View Post

I use the zoom feature a lot and find that you can crop out logos on most channels by doing so. Of course, a lot of other stuff gets cropped out too but this is just broadcast TV we're talking about so it doesn't bother me.

Hey, this is a great idea. I'll try it to see if it crops out the history channels one in particular. She watches a lot of channels with logos. No problems on any of them cause of there grayed out translucent'ness. But History Channels is full color, no transparency and bright as all hell.

Thanks for the advice, I'll try it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nabsltd View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoelxD View Post

So your saying running the slides will help IR ?
With some types of IR, slides will help.

Like the moving bar, the slides will exercise every pixel evenly, and because the slides are varied in color, it will help get pixels back to their normal state. The moving bar has the advantage of quickly going from full on to full off, which should do the job more quickly, but slides have the advantage of being able to run forever. If you set the "display interval" to one of the faster settings, it should be more effective.
Quote:
Cause despite some peoples non-belief about IR or BI, I am appalled , and sad to report that after literally 1 hour (ONE HOUR) of watching The History Channel, we had the H and History IR'ed into the screen pretty bad.
What settings were you using? The most important are contrast and brightness, but panel brightness, CATS, contour emphasis, and sharpness can all have an effect. For example, in a bright room, CATS will up the overall brightness of the panel, and a logo can get more defined if sharpness or contour emphasis are high.

If you are using one of the posted calibrations (or have had your display calibrated), the settings shouldn't be the reason for the IR you are seeing. Otherwise, I'd suspect that settings led to the quick, persistent IR.

The settings we have finally got to use (currently) are Topper's Dark Room settings. For 200hrs we left it on the default darkest setting out the box (Standard ? Or Cinema ? I forget). So it got the first 200hrs solid of its life on a super dark setting. Plus during that time it was over 50% slide time. I'd say it was broken in text book style to a tee.

Once past the 200hrs, I moved it to its next less darkest default setting (forget which one exactly) and we watched it like that for about 50hrs like that. And very little slides at this point. Just a few days ago I finally changed the settings to Topper's Dark Room settings. I actually like them best. Even for a bright room. So we are leaving it there as we finally can appreciate the picture. And then this happened.. LOL.

Thanks for the answer on the slides. Gonna run them ALL the time while we are not watching TV to see if it rids it. Yea, the problem with the scrolling bar is no option to set it to stay on forever until you manually turn it off. This should be a feature update in the next firmware update.
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post #7500 of 12304
11/10/12 at 12:01am
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoelxD View Post

Just a few days ago I finally changed the settings to Topper's Dark Room settings. I actually like them best.
That's what I'm basically using, so I wouldn't think settings would be the cause.

The only real difference I had from you is that I ran the slides for 100 straight hours after I took the TV out of the box. I was able to do this because I couldn't put it in place until I got rid of the old TV, so I had no inputs connected. This shouldn't make any difference, since your phosphors should now have finished the initial "quick" aging because of the varied usage.

I don't watch much History channel, but I do watch ESPN and MLB network a lot, and they have a lot of fixed graphics that only go away during commercials. Other than my issue with leaving the Windows desktop for hours, I've never been able to see IR when viewing normal content...only slides show the IR. So, I don't think I have any other ideas about your situation.
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