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Official Panasonic VT50 owners thread - Page 257

post #7681 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by barth2k View Post

I can deal with GIGO, except I don't watch garbage. I think it's the VT that is adding noise to the picture. I watch the same programs on my 46" Sony LCD and it looks much cleaner there. And no, it's not the size because I can get right up to 2feet in front of the set and it looks clean. With the VT I need to get about 15 feet away, except I don't want to sit that far away. I don't think it's the video processing because I doubt the $700 set I got for the guest bedroom has a better video processor than the $3000 VT. Or maybe it does in which case it's a crying shame. (I've turned off all noise reduction settings on both sets, as they don't seem to do much of anything on either)
PS: is it normal to see a lot of pixel noise and slight but definite flicker with the VT when viewing a gray slide?

Reports like this do make me wary of the GT/VT50 and perhaps even plasma in general.

I wonder how that looks when you are showing slide shows? It sounds bad enough during video.

I need to go take a look at BB, although they settings and material they use make it hard to known what is really going on.
post #7682 of 13486
Hello all! Just got the 65" VT50 and I have a question. I previously had a sharp lcd and ran my pc to it from dvi to hdmi. Trying to do the same with the VT50 and the pc sees it, but the VT50 says no signal is being received. Any ideas? I really what this set up and this is a little frustrating.

Thanks!
post #7683 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by barth2k View Post

I can deal with GIGO, except I don't watch garbage. I think it's the VT that is adding noise to the picture. I watch the same programs on my 46" Sony LCD and it looks much cleaner there. And no, it's not the size because I can get right up to 2feet in front of the set and it looks clean. With the VT I need to get about 15 feet away, except I don't want to sit that far away. I don't think it's the video processing because I doubt the $700 set I got for the guest bedroom has a better video processor than the $3000 VT. Or maybe it does in which case it's a crying shame. (I've turned off all noise reduction settings on both sets, as they don't seem to do much of anything on either)
PS: is it normal to see a lot of pixel noise and slight but definite flicker with the VT when viewing a gray slide?

I purchased my VT50 yday at Best Buy (finally getting them to price match) and I as well saw noise on one of their displays, which showed a rock concert... It did not look good, I could see the noise from 12 feet away, now question is what the source was, and even with a HD source, that material was probably not mastered well... still I was kinda shocked to see that noise... So far I haven't read much about the TV introducing noise, until reading your post and seeing that made me wonder...

Quote:
Originally Posted by skibum5000 View Post

Reports like this do make me wary of the GT/VT50 and perhaps even plasma in general.
I wonder how that looks when you are showing slide shows? It sounds bad enough during video.
I need to go take a look at BB, although they settings and material they use make it hard to known what is really going on.

yeah, their sources suck... on another VT50 display at the Magnolia in BB, they had a Blu-ray of Avatar running (despite what you think about the movie is a well mastered source), but these fools split up the signal for 12 TV displays and it looked so pixely bad, that i though I was watching a 360p super low bitrate rip... it was impossible to determine which TV displayed that movie better...

Good thing with purchasing from BB, you can currently return / exchange the TV until 01/24, so plenty enough time for extensive testing and making up your opinion... ;-)
Edited by Iron Mike - 11/19/12 at 6:01pm
post #7684 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Summit 1 View Post

Hello everyone... Complete Newbie here on these forums and with purchasing my first Plasma TV. I apologize in advance if I upset anyone with my questions. Just bought the 55 inch VT50 after reading up on this thread. Thanks for all the great help and info. Was trying to decide between the Sony HX929 or the Panasonic VT50 and decided on the VT50. Received the VT50 4 days ago and Im very happy with my choice. I watch allot of sports and I have a couple of questions. Any detailed responses would be very helpful to me.
1: Do I really need to be concerned about burn in of any kind? I saw a few concerns from other members and wanted to be sure I didn’t do anything to cause burn in to my VT50. What steps should I be taking to prevent it? I have been watching allot of sports programming so far... such as ESPN and Monday night football etc., that have the dreaded bars on all the time. Don’t want to aggravate the situation. Also, I read somewhere about using slides for the first 200 hours or so but I don’t know anything about slides such as where to purchase them, cost, how to use them or if they work or are even necessary. I did notice that Pixel Orbiter is enabled in my TV settings to help with screen burn in. Not sure if this really helps out or not.
2: I would like to have my VT50 calibrated. How long should I wait before I have it done? Also, how do I find a top notch Independent calibrator in my area? I live in Connecticut. I have heard mixed reviews on using the Geek Squad and a few other big box retailers, saying they are rushed and just go through the motions etc., etc., etc. I would like to find someone who is top notch and Independent from the big box retailers. How would I find such a person?
Thanks in advance for all your help.

Todays new plasma t.v.'s will not have burn in problems compared to plasmas from 5 years ago or so. Check the forums on AVS, there are many great customers of the Panasonic Plasma VT50 that have done their own calibration and incredible results. I personally have the TC-P65VT50 and have used the calibration setups that many people on AVS have used for the same t.v. with excellent results. This is the place for truthful information.

I hope I've helpd you out here.

Have a great holiday. smile.gif
post #7685 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoelxD View Post

Agreed, cause your right, this natural flickering is in the theater that we are all so used to. But what I am talking about is definitely not natural, and does not look natural and is not natural steady "flicker". Cause that I could deal with. As you pointed out, the theater has that.
What I am talking about is completely herky jerky panned motion shots. Almost looks like when a movie is streaming, but hasn't the bandwidth to stay smooth... ALMOST. So no one attack me for that, its just my description for this issue that happens to ALL HDTV's if some sort of motion smoothening is not enabled. What you would really call it or describe it better, IDK ?
But believe me dude, its not natural or bearable to any person that likes things right. And especially embarrassing when trying to show off your TV to someone that still has SD and they need incentive to move to HD... they look at that and are like, WTF was that ? lol

If you pan too fast at 24fps it will do the herky jerky thing, home or movie theater though. 3:2 pulldown can add another tiny layer if you don't do 24 directly.

Sometimes blu-ray may get a bit herky-jerky if your graphics card doesn't have full h.264 decoding in HW or you use a CPU-only player or something but that is it's own matter.

Maybe I'm not sure what you are talking about.
post #7686 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iron Mike View Post

I purchased my VT50 yday at Best Buy (finally getting them to price match) and I as well saw noise on one of their displays, which showed a rock concert... It did not look good, I could see the noise from 12 feet away, now question is what the source was, and even with a HD source, that material was probably not mastered well... still I was kinda shocked to see that noise... So far I haven't read much about the TV introducing noise, until reading your post and seeing that made me wonder...
yeah, their sources suck... on another VT50 display at the Magnolia in BB, they had a Blu-ray of Avatar running (despite what you think about the movie is a well mastered source), but these fools split up the signal for 12 TV displays and it looked so pixely bad, that i though I was watching a 360p super low bitrate rip... it was impossible to determine which TV displayed that movie better...
Good thing with purchasing from BB, you can currently return / exchange the TV until 01/24, so plenty enough time for extensive testing and making up your opinion... ;-)

Tell me if you see the noise too once you get it going (TONIGHT biggrin.gif).
post #7687 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by skibum5000 View Post

Tell me if you see the noise too once you get it going (TONIGHT biggrin.gif).

mine will be delivered on Friday (11/23), but yeah, I'm excited to see what's going on... rolleyes.gif

will break in the initial 200h asap and then to do a first quick cal with Controlcal (I guess) and then do a full 125 point cal with the Mini 3D...
post #7688 of 13486
How long are people running the slides? I thought D-Nice had posted to do 100hrs.
post #7689 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by rogo View Post


^^^ This.
Trends say it all. Look at the Samsung E8000 owners' thread for example. Just look at the post numbers and views. This show a distinct trend compared to the VT50 thread that is rolling fast.

Maybe that trend is not for "you" though............ biggrin.gif
post #7690 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iron Mike View Post

mine will be delivered on Friday (11/23), but yeah, I'm excited to see what's going on... rolleyes.gif
will break in the initial 200h asap and then to do a first quick cal with Controlcal (I guess) and then do a full 125 point cal with the Mini 3D...

Congrats.

You don't need to use Controlcal for your VT50, all you need is Calman to assess and control your ISF modes via LAN (socket in calman, same as you would use to connect with controlcal)) using the DCC controls of Calman. Use the DCC controls to input brightness (55), contrast (81), sharpness (0), Color temp (Warm1), screen brightness (mid), gamma (2.2), turn off all enchantments for both night and day ISF modes. Then when you run the 3D LUT cube and your Mini 3D all you have to do is use your remote to set your VT50 to one of your ISF modes and then calibrate using the 3D LUT cube workflow.
These settings are a good starting point to use with the 3D LUT cube 125 point CMS and a 21 point gray scale calibration workflow, of-course using your Mini 3D.

Using your computer, I would minimize all running programs before starting the 3D LUT cube workflow.
Also if you are using Calman, do not use 504 RC1 (as of this post), use the posted CM5E 503.

Good luck,

ss
post #7691 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mac13 View Post

How long are people running the slides? I thought D-Nice had posted to do 100hrs.

What D-Nice said was if you are going to use his settings, but not to use if you are simply burning/breaking in to VT50.
Of-course there are no D-Nice settings for the VT50.

ss
post #7692 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by sillysally View Post

Congrats.
You don't need to use Controlcal for your VT50, all you need is Calman to assess and control your ISF modes via LAN (socket in calman, same as you would use to connect with controlcal)) using the DCC controls of Calman. Use the DCC controls to input brightness (55), contrast (81), sharpness (0), Color temp (Warm1), screen brightness (mid), gamma (2.2), turn off all enchantments for both night and day ISF modes. Then when you run the 3D LUT cube and your Mini 3D all you have to do is use your remote to set your VT50 to one of your ISF modes and then calibrate using the 3D LUT cube workflow.
These settings are a good starting point to use with the 3D LUT cube 125 point CMS and a 21 point gray scale calibration workflow, of-course using your Mini 3D.
Using your computer, I would minimize all running programs before starting the 3D LUT cube workflow.
Also if you are using Calman, do not use 504 RC1 (as of this post), use the posted CM5E 503.
Good luck,
ss

sillysally,

thanks as always for your detailed response ! smile.gif

So the direct control issues C5 had in the past with the VT50 are gone ? I remember (pre 125 color cube era) that people said C5 had issues and ControlCal was the way to go...

I also wonder if I should do a rudimentary calibration on the VT50 via Calman / ControlCal just to bring the VT50 closer to it's target and then do the 125 point Mini calibration afterwards... ? Some users have been saying that is the way to go (so that the Mini - at the end of the day - has less processing to do), others have stated to disregard that initial calibration and work straight with the Mini... what do you think regarding the VT50 ?

--- As a side note: I have calibrated my Sony KDS-R60 XBR1 RPTV using the Mini 3D and C5 and w/o a (very) good initial calibration the Mini with 125 point Autocal could have not done much... the colors of the TV were so far off out of the box, that the C5 Autocal did a HORRIBLE job... extremely disappointing... on top of that the values adjustable in the C5 Mini DDC interface are simply not enough to compensate the color offsets... I'm assuming that is much less of an issue with the VT50 out of the box ---

Also, how long did you break yours in before you did your first 125 point cal ?

Do you see noise in inferior sources as I mentioned in one of my above posts ? It really surprised me when looking at the screen in BB (with one particular source), but it's obviously impossible to tell whether that was the source or the display...

Also, I saw your post in the other thread regarding the MLL fix for 504 RC1, I guess I'll be using that since I'll be using a D3 (profiled to an i1Pro) and I hope the new sync mode improves performance... rolleyes.gif

Thanks !!!

- M
Edited by Iron Mike - 11/19/12 at 10:35pm
post #7693 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iron Mike View Post

sillysally,
thanks as always for your detailed response ! smile.gif
So the direct control issues C5 had in the past with the VT50 are gone ? I remember (pre 125 color cube era) that people said C5 had issues and ControlCal was the way to go...
Quote:
As far as I know there never was any problem with CM5 controlling the VT50.
I also wonder if I should do a rudimentary calibration on the VT50 via Calman / ControlCal just to bring the VT50 closer to it's target and then do the 125 point Mini calibration afterwards... ? Some users have been saying that is the way to go (so that the Mini - at the end of the day - has less processing to do), others have stated to disregard that initial calibration and work straight with the Mini... what do you think regarding the VT50 ?
Quote:
Don't worry about the Mini 3D it can handle any processing that is involved with the VT50 and the 3D LUT cube. Yes I do set my 30/100% IRE's in pre calibration mode when using the LUT cube workflow, but I use a second laptop to assess the DCC controls in calman. I don't know if you could do this with one computer running both calman in 3D LUT cibe mode and controlcal.
The direct calibration using just the controls in the VT50 (6 point CMS, 10 piont gray scale) will not help the 3D LUT cube calibration, and if you try to use a good "normal" calibration and then run the 3D LUT cube, it will mess up the cube calibration
--- As a side note: I have calibrated my Sony KDS-R60 XBR1 RPTV using the Mini 3D and C5 and w/o a (very) good initial calibration the Mini with 125 point Autocal could have not done much... the colors of the TV were so far off out of the box, that the C5 Autocal did a HORRIBLE job... extremely disappointing... on top of that the values adjustable in the C5 Mini DDC interface are simply not enough to compensate the color offsets... I'm assuming that is much less of an issue with the VT50 out of the box ---
Quote:
imo yes even if you don't set your RGB controls in your VT50 you should see some very good results after running the LUT cube,
Also, how long did you break yours in before you did your first 125 point cal ?
Quote:
I was one of the first to get the VT50 so I was using C5 in manual mode not auto, until they came out with the LUT cube (see my to link in sig, that is a manual calibration)
Do you see noise in inferior sources as I mentioned in one of my above posts ? It really surprised me when looking at the screen in BB (with one particular source), but it's obviously impossible to tell whether that was the source or the display.
Quote:
For the most part I use Blu Ray disc's so no I never see a problem. I may sometimes view HQ sport broadcast and for me it seems fine
..
Also, I saw your post in the other thread regarding the MLL fix for 504 RC1, I guess I'll be using that since I'll be using a D3 (profiled to an i1Pro) and I hope the new sync mode improves performance... rolleyes.gif
Thanks !!!
- M

ss
post #7694 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post

Trends say it all. Look at the Samsung E8000 owners' thread for example. Just look at the post numbers and views. This show a distinct trend compared to the VT50 thread that is rolling fast.
Maybe that trend is not for "you" though............ biggrin.gif

I was agreeing with you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SiGGy View Post

No, I judge things over-all. And what's most important is what one watches most of the time, certainly not what you watch 5% of the time. Honestly I bet most of the folks who buy VT50's do not sit around watching the same Bluray movies over and over in the dark (unless they are showing the TV off), that honeymoon wears off after a month or so. They sit with their families watching cable/satellite/IPTV with some lights on in the room. I'm sure there is some person who will probably post in this thread to contradict me (becasue they know this is true) who does only sit in the dark like a mushroom with his/her family watching TV. And I bet the family does this probably because of said postee. But it won't apply to the vast majority of TV purchasers.

I watch those things, satellite TV mostly, lights on mostly.
Quote:
IMO it's all of the purists still trying to hold on who really toss off the reality of 2012. They haven't quite swallowed the idea that it's almost over, streaming and on-demand have sadly won. We watch mostly over-compressed material, you really need the proper tools to help it out a bit. Those tools (noise reduction/sharpness) are NOT all created equal as you try and say. This seems to be the "go to" answer of all videophile/pursists that using any amount of these tools is bad. It's like the defacto answer that everyone repeats because someone said it and now everyone wants to sound smart (or pure) about it. When watching a Bluray I'd agree it's a clean source, but with DVD/cable/satellite it's just not the case.

When I stream movies from Vudu and iTunes, the quality is really, really good. I don't know what junk you are streaming, though.

My VT50 looks great with these sources.
post #7695 of 13486
thanks for the detailed explanation, follow up questions:
Quote:
Originally Posted by sillysally View Post

imo yes even if you don't set your RGB controls in your VT50 you should see some very good results after running the LUT cube

by "setting the RGB controls" - w/o a 6 point standard calibration - I assume you mean the 30 / 100% IRE adjustment in pre cal ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by sillysally View Post

Don't worry about the Mini 3D it can handle any processing that is involved with the VT50 and the 3D LUT cube. Yes I do set my 30/100% IRE's in pre calibration mode when using the LUT cube workflow, but I use a second laptop to assess the DCC controls in calman. I don't know if you could do this with one computer running both calman in 3D LUT cibe mode and controlcal.

so, what you're saying is that it might not be possible - being in the 3D LUT workflow - to access the Calman VT50 DDC controls in pre cal in the 3D LUT workflow, because the DDC is already connected to the Mini ? If that's not possible, I could still run a second Calman instance in a Virtual Machine and do that... or just set the 30 / 100% in another workflow (Quick Analysis) right before you enter the 3D LUT workflow... btw, why are you not using Controlcal anymore to access the VT50 directly, I remember you were a fan of it ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by sillysally View Post

The direct calibration using just the controls in the VT50 (6 point CMS, 10 piont gray scale) will not help the 3D LUT cube calibration, and if you try to use a good "normal" calibration and then run the 3D LUT cube, it will mess up the cube calibration

From my understanding (and I might be misunderstanding something here), it would be the opposite, as the 125 point cube cal has less to alter in the signal to get to the specified target... The only question is which video processor does a better job ? The Mini or your TV ? If your TV video processor does a horrible job, it's better to leave as is and let the Mini handle as much as it can (as I said with my Sony, I had to utilize both and now it's a very, very good picture)... at the end of the day the 125 point cube only alters what needs to be altered, reading with the meter what the TV currently outputs and then making decisions based on that, so if the TV is already decently calibrated, it has less adjustments to do in some of the areas... please correct me if I'm wrong here !!! smile.gifwink.gif

Thanks !!!

- M
post #7696 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iron Mike View Post

thanks for the detailed explanation, follow up questions:
by "setting the RGB controls" - w/o a 6 point standard calibration - I assume you mean the 30 / 100% IRE adjustment in pre cal ?
Quote:
YES
so, what you're saying is that it might not be possible - being in the 3D LUT workflow - to access the Calman VT50 DDC controls in pre cal in the 3D LUT workflow, because the DDC is already connected to the Mini ? If that's not possible, I could still run a second Calman instance in a Virtual Machine and do that... or just set the 30 / 100% in another workflow (Quick Analysis) right before you enter the 3D LUT workflow.\
Quote:
You can not set your RGB controls (30/100% IRE) when in ISF mode in your VT50 and 3D LUT mode for your Mini. However you can set any non ISF mode when using 3D LUT mode and your Mini by using your VT50 remote.
..
btw, why are you not using Controlcal anymore to access the VT50 directly, I remember you were a fan of it ?
Quote:
Yes I was when I had my Kuro 141, but now Calman can assess the ISF modes in the VT50 so I don't need it.
From my understanding (and I might be misunderstanding something here), it would be the opposite, as the 125 point cube cal has less to alter in the signal to get to the specified target..
Quote:
Don't know
.
The only question is which video processor does a better job ? The Mini or your TV ? If your TV video processor does a horrible job, it's better to leave as is and let the Mini handle as much as it can (as I said with my Sony, I had to utilize both and now it's a very, very good picture)... at the end of the day the 125 point cube only alters what needs to be altered, reading with the meter what the TV currently outputs and then making decisions based on that, so if the TV is already decently calibrated, it has less adjustments to do in some of the areas... please correct me if I'm wrong here !!! smile.gifwink.gif
Quote:
The VT50 does a nice job without any outside help, I really have the Mini3D to be able to do the 3D LUT cube and the 21 point gray scale. On a side note after doing a good 3d LUT cube and gray scale using the Mini not only are there more colors to see but imo it also gives better depth (more 3D like) and a little better clarity, because of the blending of the colors. With my Oppo 93 I set it to source direct. Of-course this is saying you get a really good calibration when using the LUT cube (125 point cms) and 21 point gray scale.
Thanks !!!
- M

btw, the new beta software (504) really is bad if you try to use it with meter sync mode turn on, so until Calman gets a grip on the 504 version I think it wise to use the 503 version.

I guess you already know how to tweak the 3D LUT cube with Calmans settings.

ss
post #7697 of 13486
Finally got my replacement set yesterday and I'm glad to report that there is once again no buzzing, no dead pixels, no issues at all, except one. When using the color slides, I can see very faint vertical lines running through the top middle of the screen about a quarter of the way down. These are very faint and I can only see them being right up to the screen. However, it doesn't matter what color is showing I see them. What can these be? They aren't noticeable from any normal viewing distance or a foot away. Could this affect picture quality? This VT50 also doesn't seem as sharp as my last one, at times, unless that has to do with the aging of the panel and the old one having more hours on it and the picture getting better with time.
post #7698 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by sillysally View Post

I guess you already know how to tweak the 3D LUT cube with Calmans settings.
ss

well, I know how to use the 3D LUT workflow, not sure if there are any "special tweaks" to it...

I did about ten 125 point Autocals on my Sony KDS-R60XBR1 RPTV, as I mentioned above this is whole different beast, as the technology is 7 years old, it's missing some crucial controls and out-of-the-box the TV is completely off...

Like I said, just using C5 and the Mini with a 125 point cal was a joke - absolutely unusable results... After doing a standard 6 point calibration - which took forever, due to limited service menu controls and all manual work with the remote - I got a decent cal in and then ran the 125 point cal with the Mini. This did it, the 125 point Autocal adjusted everything that I couldn't due to the missing controls and everything else it does... The results are very, very good (except one issue at 10%), picture is fantastic - very film like when watching Blu-Ray... Wanted to tweak more and try more approaches, but then the Mini stopped working and I had to replace the unit twice (Lumagen great customer service)...

I'm very excited to compare this picture to the new plasma technology in the VT50...

will keep you updated, my expectations are very high seeing your results wink.gif

- M
post #7699 of 13486
Hey guys I have a 55VT30 that I bought right when it came out. Sometimes I'm happy with it, sometimes I'm not, I think the PQ could be better...what really sucks is I have burn-in on the left upper corner where the DISH logo is. Why? I have no idea, I just do regular viewing. Will I notice an improvement going from VT30 to VT50 that significantly? I'm just not sure if plasma is my thing anymore because of this burnin issue, but I don't like lEDS/LCDS because off angle sucks
post #7700 of 13486
Folks, I apologize for posting this here since I already posted it on a separate thread, but I'll try to remove it from the separate thread as this might be the best place for it (lots of VT expertise here!):

======
A week ago I bought a 65" VT50 and really love it. I've been doing very careful break in (no letterbox, full screen, no logos, etc.) and am 50 or so hours into it but when watching a show recently, I noticed what I think on LCDs would be considered a small section of clouding in the upper right corner. It's not noticeable when the scene is dark but when it's lighter it is noticeable. It's also definitely noticeable when a gray screen appears briefly when I turn on cable.

There is nothing on the panel (no smudging or anything), I checked...it's definitely on the inside. The rest of the panel is beautiful, no apparent differences in brightness whatsoever. BTW, I am NOT referring to variations in brightness that one can see during the anti-IR "erasing" thing...those don't bother me and they're faint. But anything that's noticeable when watching is to me unacceptable.

I bought it from BB and they price matched the internet so I got a nice deal on it. It wasn't a return, it was a new unopened unit and they assured me of that. When I bought it they were also very reassuring that if I had any problems they'd make it right and exchange it, etc.

So, I'm definitely going to be taking it back but I was curious if anyone else had run into the same situation. Any ideas what this might be? Are there occasionally defects in VT panels? Any constructive responses are greatly appreciated.

Thanks, and take care!
post #7701 of 13486
I just received my second 65VT50 - the first was returned due to a dead green pixel. Really! The replacement looks good so far. Doing the slide burn-in thing (I have read all the comments on this and decided it couldn't hurt. The video I watched on the first one (delivered Sunday) looked pretty darned good. I will get it calibrated later.
post #7702 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevel View Post

I just received my second 65VT50 - the first was returned due to a dead green pixel. Really! The replacement looks good so far. Doing the slide burn-in thing (I have read all the comments on this and decided it couldn't hurt. The video I watched on the first one (delivered Sunday) looked pretty darned good. I will get it calibrated later.

What did you use to find the dead pixel? Some RGB slides on the set itself or something on a Blu-ray test/calibration disc?
post #7703 of 13486
The RGB slides. It was also visible, but less obvious, on the initial menu screens which are (mostly) blue, but it was blindingly obvious on the green slide. I bought from the local Paul's TV and they gave me no grief about it at all. I checked the replacement with all three colors before the delivery guys left.
post #7704 of 13486
I did the same with mine. Got mine replaced because of a flashing green pixel. Checked the new tv with the slides before the delivery guys left, no dead pixels. Two days later, there is one dead pixel, so they do develop with time, But one dead pixel that can't be seen from any normal viewing distance is better then a green flashing one that can be seen.

Can anyone comment about the faint vertical lines I can see on the slides from up close? From normal viewing distance, I have no chance of seeing these.
post #7705 of 13486
I don't see any faint (or otherwise) vertical lines on the slides on my set. I do note that the images are JPG and there is some "shimmer" to the image, so it could be one of the TV's NR circuits at work.
post #7706 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevel View Post

The RGB slides. It was also visible, but less obvious, on the initial menu screens which are (mostly) blue, but it was blindingly obvious on the green slide. I bought from the local Paul's TV and they gave me no grief about it at all. I checked the replacement with all three colors before the delivery guys left.

Thanks! I'm hoping if I buy from CP and have them break in and calibrate they won't send me a panel with bad pixels!
post #7707 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevel View Post

I don't see any faint (or otherwise) vertical lines on the slides on my set. I do note that the images are JPG and there is some "shimmer" to the image, so it could be one of the TV's NR circuits at work.

I noticed them on regular content with a white background last night too, but only if I look from up close and that's it. And they are just in the upper middle portion of the screen, no where else. They are so faint, that if anyone was trying to find them without knowing how to spot them, you wouldn't see them. Also, just looking at the screen I can't see them. I have to be very close to the screen and moving in order to see them, like moving my head back and forth and then they show up very faintly. Something that troublesome to see, I don't really care about. One dead pixel instead of two and a flashing green one is a keeper. Was hoping for no dead pixels, but as I mentioned, when I first turned the tv on, there were none. Two days later, there was one. So you may get a set with none, but they may die over time. Just remember, a dead pixel, just one, is very unnoticeable. Now that flashing green pixel was very noticeable from viewing distance. It was so bright that any dark scene it was easily noticeable.
post #7708 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by EinsteinCross View Post

Folks, I apologize for posting this here since I already posted it on a separate thread, but I'll try to remove it from the separate thread as this might be the best place for it (lots of VT expertise here!):
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A week ago I bought a 65" VT50 and really love it. I've been doing very careful break in (no letterbox, full screen, no logos, etc.) and am 50 or so hours into it but when watching a show recently, I noticed what I think on LCDs would be considered a small section of clouding in the upper right corner. It's not noticeable when the scene is dark but when it's lighter it is noticeable. It's also definitely noticeable when a gray screen appears briefly when I turn on cable.
There is nothing on the panel (no smudging or anything), I checked...it's definitely on the inside. The rest of the panel is beautiful, no apparent differences in brightness whatsoever. BTW, I am NOT referring to variations in brightness that one can see during the anti-IR "erasing" thing...those don't bother me and they're faint. But anything that's noticeable when watching is to me unacceptable.
I bought it from BB and they price matched the internet so I got a nice deal on it. It wasn't a return, it was a new unopened unit and they assured me of that. When I bought it they were also very reassuring that if I had any problems they'd make it right and exchange it, etc.
So, I'm definitely going to be taking it back but I was curious if anyone else had run into the same situation. Any ideas what this might be? Are there occasionally defects in VT panels? Any constructive responses are greatly appreciated.
Thanks, and take care!

I experienced the same during the few couple hundred hours.

It eventually went away.
post #7709 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by highdefav1 View Post

Even on Monoprice, all cable are not the same.
If you want to carry 3D bandwidth, be sure to get the high-speed cables and not the standard.
There are also ones with Redmere technology, which essentially had a chip in each connector that allows for longer runs with thinner cords, however, it is directional...meaning one end is meant for the source and one is for the destination.
Again, look for the high-speed ones. They also carry 1080p if you have BD media. The standard HDMI's will only carry 1080i.
I'll be hooking up OTA to the TV tuner and running a single HDMI to a Panasonic SC-HTB550 through HDMI audio return channel (ARC). The HTB550 will have a few devices hooked to its HDMI inputs. So I'll have audio from the TV and audio from other devices all going into the HTB550 and video going out to the TV over that single HDMI. The HTB550 will be controlled by the TV remote through Viera Link. Do you think a direction Redmere cable will support all of this or will it hinder it? They say Redmere supports ARC but I'm not certain about Viera Link. I have my doubts since it is directional.
post #7710 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by scirica View Post

Thanks! I'm hoping if I buy from CP and have them break in and calibrate they won't send me a panel with bad pixels!

I am sure you will be fine. I know that if I had purchased from Value Electronics, which I considered, they would have done the same if I had asked for calibration. But buying from a local dealer, rather than one hundreds of miles away, made up for the benefits of buying from a dedicated dealer such as CP or VE, and the price worked out to be about the same.
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