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Official Panasonic VT50 owners thread - Page 269

post #8041 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewXUK View Post

My options seem to be:

a small center speaker in the cabinet,
a low center speaker in front of the TV
a low sound bar also in front of the TV.
I use a pair of center channel speakers, which allows the IR sensor to be exposed.

I've always had a pair of bookshelf speakers as my center channel as historically I used separate amps to drive my speakers, the amps I used were stereo, and bookshelf speakers always seem to come in pairs. With smaller TVs, having a speaker on each side gave me a good soundstage. WIth the VT50, instead of having them standing up, they are laying down in front of the TV, which is actually better as they line up closer to the same height as the midrange and tweeters on the front speakers.

Even though they are only about 5" high, this would block some of the picture, so I have the stand raised up to allow clearance. I used the ghetto method of hockey pucks glued to the bottom of the stand (after routing out the top of the hockey pucks so that the feet of the stand would nestle inside and give me a larger contact surface). In a dark room, they pretty much disappear, but I could put some sort of trim in front if I really wanted to.
post #8042 of 13486
Just received my 55VT50. Straight out of the box in THX mode it is quite a bit better than my G20 that I spent quite a bit of time adjusting. I don't feel the need to adjust anything on the VT50, it looks that good! Using size 1 with pixel orbiter and no signs of IR Yet. Mostly watching Directv running through an Oppo 105 wich seems to improve picture quality too. Panasonic hit a home run with this model!
post #8043 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by robnix View Post

Head on over to the Calibration forums, all your answers are there.

I have looked around there and do not find anything telling me if I need to buy some special software/hardware to work with the panasonic vt50 for it's auto calibration ability. Can someone please tell me if an additional purchase is required?
post #8044 of 13486
myriadcorp,

You'll have to get a meter such as a i1display3 and Calman. Figure on $500- $600.

Plan B is to get a Lumagen radiance 3D, software from either Calman or Chromapure, and the meter. Now you're up to about $2,200 ish.

Plan C....screw it and find some of the published calibration settings and see if one of those works out well for you. Cost you nothing but the time to research for it.

By the way, there is a thread for VT50 settings somewhere around here. Don't remember if it's in the calibration section or in the plasma section.
post #8045 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by fookoo_2010 View Post

Given the price of that unit, it would have been less costly to buy a shelving system with three levels in which one can lower or raise the display and easily fit the center speaker below the display as well as storing most HT components such as AVR, cable box,and BR player.

+1 on that. I have a DefTech CS-8080 HD center channel which is powered, and has top-firing woofer and bass radiators. To get the most out of that speaker, you need to avoid having it in an enclosed cabinet. I had a Sanus 18" center channel stand, but with our new 55" VT50 coming next week, I picked up a stand with three shelves so I can minimize the overall footprint, leave the space above the center channel open by putting it on the top shelf, and mount the VT50 above the center.

There's many choices, but I picked this one:
http://www.abt.com/product/45625/Z-Line-ZL56855SU.html

@Jimp: the VT50 calibration/settings thread is in the Plasma sub-forum. I found it when researching this display.
post #8046 of 13486
I am getting my 65VT50 tomorrow and I am planing on running the color images for at least 100 hours before I start using it for normal viewing. My plan is to reduce brightness to about 30% and run the images for about 6 to 8 hours during the night and in the evening just playing a movie that fills the screen. I will leave it off during the day so that it rests and because I am afraid of overheating issues with the electronics (power supply, fans etc...). Any opinions on this approach would be appreciated
post #8047 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yamadr6 View Post

I am getting my 65VT50 tomorrow and I am planing on running the color images for at least 100 hours before I start using it for normal viewing. My plan is to reduce brightness to about 30% and run the images for about 6 to 8 hours during the night and in the evening just playing a movie that fills the screen. I will leave it off during the day so that it rests and because I am afraid of overheating issues with the electronics (power supply, fans etc...). Any opinions on this approach would be appreciated

My 2 cents is, I ran mine very nearly 24 hours a day for the first 6 days and had no overheating or even any real significant heat from the TV. I also didn't even know there were fans in the TV until I was told here. I still don't think I've heard them.
post #8048 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oh2Smooth View Post

My 2 cents is, I ran mine very nearly 24 hours a day for the first 6 days and had no overheating or even any real significant heat from the TV. I also didn't even know there were fans in the TV until I was told here. I still don't think I've heard them.

Thank you. I am starting to consider running it for that long . Did you reduce your brightness? What video mode did you have your on?
post #8049 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by TenthScale View Post

What's different about interacting and playing games vs just sitting there watching TV or sports etc? At least there is some interaction and thinking involved....
Not really a kid and absolutely did not grow up with money. I do pretty well financially now and I enjoy playing games when I can't be outside or just to unwind, same as someone sitting and watching TV. In-fact I have not even had cable in about 5 years, just internet.
I don't understand why there is such an animosity or disdain for playing video games from some people when watching movies or TV is perfectly acceptable??

I look at it like this: its like buying a Maserati to drive to the corner store for groceries.wink.gif

Heaven forbid that I would say that this set is not good for gaming. But if your primary reason to have a TV is games, you will not be happy with a plasma. Or you could save $$$$ and get the 65ST50 instead.

But its your money to spend, wisely or not.biggrin.gif
post #8050 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yamadr6 View Post

Thank you. I am starting to consider running it for that long . Did you reduce your brightness? What video mode did you have your on?

I actually made a mistake and didn't realize the custom adjustments were per input, so I had setup the HDMI input using CNETs settings but had left the media player (counts as an input as far as settings are concerned) settings to the standard which is quite a bit darker than the CNET settings (which aren't nearly as bright as THX Bright Room). I switched to the CNET settings part the way through figuring the increased but not rediculous brightness would help increase the burnin (not image burnin in but aging of the phosphors) rate and stabilize the panel faster.
post #8051 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by weedeater View Post

I look at it like this: its like buying a Maserati to drive to the corner store for groceries.wink.gif
Heaven forbid that I would say that this set is not good for gaming. But if your primary reason to have a TV is games, you will not be happy with a plasma. Or you could save $$$$ and get the 65ST50 instead.
But its your money to spend, wisely or not.biggrin.gif

I don't understand this comment. Other than potential IR/BI issues (which is mostly a non-issue), aren't plasmas better suited for gaming with their increased performance in fast motion?
Edited by Oh2Smooth - 12/7/12 at 3:09pm
post #8052 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oh2Smooth View Post

I actually made a mistake and didn't realize the custom adjustments were per input, so I had setup the HDMI input using CNETs settings but had left the media player (counts as an input as far as settings are concerned) settings to the standard which is quite a bit darker than the CNET settings (which aren't nearly as bright as THX Bright Room). I switched to the CNET settings part the way through figuring the increased but not rediculous brightness would help increase the burnin (not image burnin in but aging of the phosphors) rate and stabilize the panel faster.

I am sorry about all the questions but do you happen to have the link for the CNET settings?
post #8053 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yamadr6 View Post

I am sorry about all the questions but do you happen to have the link for the CNET settings?

http://forums.cnet.com/7723-19410_102-564711/panasonic-tc-p65vt50-picture-settings/?tag=StickyWin_1338818924521;createThreadPopup

Others on here have said there are much better ones, and I'm still toying around with over settings (also posted in the settings thread) but these are a good starting point IMHO.
post #8054 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oh2Smooth View Post

I don't understand this comment. Other than potential IR/BI issues, aren't plasmas better suited for gaming with their increased performance in fast motion?

My last set was a Samsung FPT6374 which is a 63" plasma. I gamed on it all the time w/o any problems.

I now have a 65" VT50 and though I have not had much time to game on it I have played some games and it has performed flawlessly. I have some free time tomorrow and plan to spend a good amount of the day gaming.

I did make sure to break-in both sets whether required or not.

Just be smart about what you play and how much you play early in the sets life. I know that after a year on the Sammy my concerns about IR and Burn in no longer existed. I am expecting the same on the Panny.

The VT50 is a great set but I also think the Maserati comparison may be a little extreme.

I can't emphasize enough that you just need to be smart with plasma early. Once the set has a bunch of hours on it you can relax a bit. After a year all your concerns will fade

I purchased my VT50 to replace a set that was used 6± hours everyday. Even more on the weekend.

I expect the VT50 to do an even better job.
post #8055 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimP View Post

myriadcorp,
You'll have to get a meter such as a i1display3 and Calman. Figure on $500- $600.
Plan B is to get a Lumagen radiance 3D, software from either Calman or Chromapure, and the meter. Now you're up to about $2,200 ish.
Plan C....screw it and find some of the published calibration settings and see if one of those works out well for you. Cost you nothing but the time to research for it.
By the way, there is a thread for VT50 settings somewhere around here. Don't remember if it's in the calibration section or in the plasma section.

Thank you for clearing up the confusion I had about the auto calibration on the VT50. I think plan C is the best option for me.
post #8056 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by weedeater View Post

I look at it like this: its like buying a Maserati to drive to the corner store for groceries.wink.gif
Heaven forbid that I would say that this set is not good for gaming. But if your primary reason to have a TV is games, you will not be happy with a plasma. Or you could save $$$$ and get the 65ST50 instead.
But its your money to spend, wisely or not.biggrin.gif

doesn't make any sense what you write here...

in general, you want the best TV for ANY given signal source... what you feed the TV is (obviously) personal preference, but you want the best possible picture, that hopefully - after calibration - is as close as possible as the source was mastered...

video games - for the last few years already - have way higher budgets than movies, they are a major part of the entertainment industry... and obviously you wanna enjoy ALL of your entertainment on the best possible screen...

all scenes in all video games are COLOR GRADED - ALL - which can't be said for some movies... the imagery you get in some video games nowadays on a calibrated screen is unreal...

lag on the VT50 is okay (for a non-pro approach), better than other screens - if you play competitively online, I would definitely go straight into the TV, avoid any other devices in your chain to minimize lag as much as possible...
Edited by Iron Mike - 12/7/12 at 7:02pm
post #8057 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iron Mike View Post

doesn't make any sense what you write here...
in general, you want the best TV for ANY given signal source... what you feed the TV is (obviously) personal preference, but you want the best possible picture, that hopefully - after calibration - is as close as possible as the source was mastered...
video games - for the last few years already - have way higher budgets than movies, they are a major part of the entertainment industry... and obviously you wanna enjoy ALL of your entertainment on the best possible screen...
all scenes in all video games are COLOR GRADED - ALL - which can't be said for some movies... the imagery you get in some video games nowadays on a calibrated screen in unreal...
lag on the VT50 is okay (for a non-pro approach), better than other screens - if you play competitively online, I would definitely go straight into the TV, avoid any other devices in your chain to minimize lag as much as possible...

+1.

Forza on my 65VT50. YUM.

I even get crazy sometimes and run HDMI from my PC to the TV so I can play some of my PC games on it.

If I had that Maserati - I'd drive it down the darn driveway just to get the mail. tongue.gif
post #8058 of 13486
Ok, so do I have another dud VT50? First one had two dead pixels and then devleoped a flashing green pixel. However, the overall picture quality on that set was way better then the one I have now. The one now, HD/BluRay the picture looks very soft. Now my issues, the first issue was with the banding or vertical lines. My screen is full of them. If I look at the tv up close, I can see these vertical lines, all across the screen, going all the way down the screen. Maybe about 8 to 10 of them in total. Then there is the right side faint banding. Neither of these issues were on the first VT50. Now I'm starting to notice the screen flickering when darker scenes of shows are on. This is happening on gaming, satellite, and Bluray, three different inputs. First I thought it was a source problem with the satelltie. However, the other night I watched the Dark Knight Rises on my other Panasonic plasma, then checked out a few scenes on the VT50 today and there was constant flickering/flashing in the picture. This was not observed on my other Panasonic plasma, or even on the other VT50. This is really starting to sound like another lemon. Panasonic has sent in order to replace the A board on the tv. I'm not sure that's going to do anything to help solve these issues. I'm hoping it does, but if not, I'm hoping they'll replace it again. Seriously, I would rather still have the flashing green pixel set then this one. If they don't do anything, I guess I keep it for a year or two, see what the next line of Panasonics are like, and use my dealers extended warranty where they will replace it with a new tv if there are issues, no questions asked, after the original warranty expires.
post #8059 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yamadr6 View Post

I am getting my 65VT50 tomorrow and I am planing on running the color images for at least 100 hours before I start using it for normal viewing. My plan is to reduce brightness to about 30% and run the images for about 6 to 8 hours during the night and in the evening just playing a movie that fills the screen. I will leave it off during the day so that it rests and because I am afraid of overheating issues with the electronics (power supply, fans etc...). Any opinions on this approach would be appreciated

Congrats.

What you are planning is fine, if you want you can view a letter box movie and then two full screen movies. You probably don't need to turn it off for anymore than two hours a day, if it is well vented and there is someone to peak in to make sure your images haven't locked up.

Also if you back light your display make sure you use a very dim 65K bulb and be vary careful on were you place the bulb behind your display. The reason is because the light from a bias bulb can be seen on your screen or cause the picture to look a little washed out.

ss
post #8060 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by robnix View Post

+1.
Forza on my 65VT50. YUM.
I even get crazy sometimes and run HDMI from my PC to the TV so I can play some of my PC games on it.
If I had that Maserati - I'd drive it down the darn driveway just to get the mail. tongue.gif

Man this is rich. If you ever get a Maserati can I ride shotgun to the mail box?
post #8061 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by weedeater View Post

I look at it like this: its like buying a Maserati to drive to the corner store for groceries.wink.gif
Heaven forbid that I would say that this set is not good for gaming. But if your primary reason to have a TV is games, you will not be happy with a plasma. Or you could save $$$$ and get the 65ST50 instead.
But its your money to spend, wisely or not.biggrin.gif

I own a Mastercraft X45 wakeboard boat so that shows how wisely I spend money LOL.. Anyone that owns a boat can't be right.. The 65ES8000 is the only other screen that seems to be worth spending money on. (excluding the sony just because of the cost). I am going to send some emails out tomorrow so if I can get it for the same price as the people in the deal thread I will pick up the VT50 and try it out.

As for the car.. agree if I had a ferrari or whatever I would drive it every chance I got.
post #8062 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oh2Smooth View Post

http://forums.cnet.com/7723-19410_102-564711/panasonic-tc-p65vt50-picture-settings/?tag=StickyWin_1338818924521;createThreadPopup
Others on here have said there are much better ones, and I'm still toying around with over settings (also posted in the settings thread) but these are a good starting point IMHO.

Which settings are better or what settings do you guys recommend?
post #8063 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbone61554 View Post

Man this is rich. If you ever get a Maserati can I ride shotgun to the mail box?

Only if you promise to pay any bills you find tongue.gif
post #8064 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oh2Smooth View Post

My 2 cents is, I ran mine very nearly 24 hours a day for the first 6 days and had no overheating or even any real significant heat from the TV. I also didn't even know there were fans in the TV until I was told here. I still don't think I've heard them.

That's what I did with my Pio Elite 151fd pro. Ran it straight through for 6 days with no problems. 3 years later my Elite has been top shape since then. Planning on doing the same thing with my 65VT50 when it arrives..
post #8065 of 13486
Hey guys, I am looking to buy the TC-P55VT50. Does anyone know where to find the best price? Is below 1800 possible?
post #8066 of 13486
If the VT50 uses similar tech to the Kuro. Will it develop the red blacks too? Or was this just a Kuro issue? Thanks
post #8067 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by 440forpower View Post

If the VT50 uses similar tech to the Kuro. Will it develop the red blacks too? Or was this just a Kuro issue? Thanks

Got a 4 years old 9G Elite. No red blacks. Never heard about that one.
post #8068 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by Husker43 View Post

Hey guys, I am looking to buy the TC-P55VT50. Does anyone know where to find the best price? Is below 1800 possible?
This is one of those cases where a Google search will answer the question. Nobody is advertising it for that price, but you might be able to talk somebody down if you have some special circumstances. For example, if some place has free shipping anywhere in the US and you can pick it up locally, then you might get $100-200 off the price.
post #8069 of 13486
I can't get 3D to work for me on this TV!!! My TV recognizes that it's a 3D source because it combines the side-by-side pictures. I then turn on the glasses (flashing light indicates ON), but the picture doesn't become 3D... Here's my setup:

TV: TC-P55VT50
Player: Panasonic DMP-BDT220
Source: from USB (Tintin, Toy Story 3, Brave)
Glasses: Sony Playstation 3 Universal Glasses

Any help would be appreciated.
post #8070 of 13486
Quote:
Originally Posted by blueclifford View Post

I can't get 3D to work for me on this TV!!! My TV recognizes that it's a 3D source because it combines the side-by-side pictures. I then turn on the glasses (flashing light indicates ON), but the picture doesn't become 3D... Here's my setup:
TV: TC-P55VT50
Player: Panasonic DMP-BDT220
Source: from USB (Tintin, Toy Story 3, Brave)
Glasses: Sony Playstation 3 Universal Glasses
Any help would be appreciated.

Maybe the glasses are not synced to the TVs? Try turning the glasses on and holding them next to the lower right front of the screen.

See if the TVs shows the glasses being synced.

Also are the PS3 glasses compatible with this set?
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