Official Panasonic VT50 owners thread - Page 318

Are you talking about the receiver timer or tv timer?

I've never noticed any waves.

Is this delay on the receiver or tv?

This is the same setup my electrician at work suggested, but the bottom outlet was going to be a j-box with a power cord hard wired inside. This would look more professional. Thanks

TV timer. I probably shouldn't have even mentioned the receiver.

Is it because you have the energy saver on? If you don't do anything for 3 hrs it will turn off by itself if that option is on.

Im getting a cal on my 65VT50 next Thursday, on ISF day and ISF night . My professional calibrator does not do the cal for ISF 3D. it will cost 370.00 is it a good deal not getting ISF 3D done. price also include 50.00 for travel.

Believe I was responding to a different person with the opposite, and more frequent, problem.

When video gets ahead of the audio that's rarer and I have seen it before on other setups - this means something in your chain is causing lag. The most notorius setup for seeing this in is when you use a dual hdmi out on say your bluray player and the video goes direct to the TV but the audio has to travel to a receiver and then get decoded. If this is your setup then its a good idea to try having your Bluray player do the decoding (dolby digital etc.) and have it transmit out to your AVR via PCM. Or if possible just have the video go through the AVR and then on to the TV for that source.

What does your setup and connections look like?

Thanks.. Her point is that she doesn't want to have to shut the blinds to watch TV..
Reviews of plasmas versus LEDs that state things like the following don't help....
"Hardcore sports fans and gamers will want to go plasma because of the large (min 600hz) refresh rate tho you have to watch out because it is a glass screen you get large reflection if you do not have controlled lighting." (from http://home-audio-theatre-tvs.knoji.com/pros-and-cons-of-led-television-over-lcd-and-plasma-tvs/)
Edited by kerednai - 1/23/13 at 8:13am

to watch either type of tv she won't have to shut the blinds. The only real difference is that the LED is a better picture in the brightest of environments (its the one case where it won't look more washed out than its competitors). So lots of daytime viewing and sports etc could be better.

But how do I prove that short of bring a Plasma and an LED into the house and trying them both side by side..

just go to a really bright store Most have so much more lighting inside (and the worst type for plasmas, fluorescent),. If she can see the tv picture there its the same diff. Of course the LED is going to look nicer - in fact they are tweaked to catch your eyes better at the stores. Is that the only reason she prefers it though? I bought the LED first only because my wife thought it was more aesthetically relevant to our living room than the vt50...

I noticed that on my Samsung 46" series 650 LCD when I first bought that movie. I ended up getting a better Blu-ray player and it all went away. What are you using for a Blu-ray player? I just sold my Pioneer BDP-51FD and bought a Pioneer Elite BDP-62FD. The player that had the problem was a Sony BDP-S350.

BTW, I just purchased a 55" VT50 and it's getting delivered on Saturday. Thanks to everyone who has posted about it; it really helped to make the purchase decision easier.

New 65VT50 owner piping in here. REALLY excited... this will be my second HDTV (current one is a Panny CT-34WX52... all 180lbs. of it!), and my first brand new purchase. So... a "little" upgrade! Looking forward to getting this beaut on the wall.

Bought the set from our local Best Buy. They actually price-matched it with the latest Adorama deal ($2400), despite the fact that Adorama is out of stock (earliest delivery now is around end of February) and that the deal is only for local/call-in orders. The salesperson seriously went to bat for me... almost didn't get it past the manager. I was ready to walk if it didn't.

We accept delivery tomorrow (Thursday). Seeing that it is absolutely freezing outside, I probably will need to let the TV sit after delivery, which is a shame. It'll be in the 20's or 30's outside... how long after unboxing should I wait to power the set up?

I won't even get into the whole break-in discussion,. My head is swimming with THAT one. I'll peruse the appropriate thread for that. We don't have cable/satellite, so most of our viewing will be OTA, Bluray, and Netflix.

Anyhow... just wanted to drop in and say how happy I am to be a member of this elite little club

Keep reading about Plasmas and bright rooms. I've owned a Plasma (HP) for 9 yrs. and never had anyone complain about the picture quality and I would say my room is plenty bright during the day. I have the plasma ceiling mounted above my Klipsch RF7IIs. No reflections and picture was excellent. Finally died on me and now I am shopping. I wouldn't hesitate on purchasing another plasma even in my bright room.

I couldn't agree more. I have a very bright living room with all white walls, windows, high ceilings etc. The first thing I noticed when i turned on my VT50 was how bright it was, in THX Cinema mode!

Hello to everyone! I am the proud owner of the tc-p65vt50 which has been ISF calibrated and the picture looks amazing. The only problem I have had came up recently after the latest firmware update. After doing the update, I have had problems with my directv. I have not changed anything in my system (cables, components, etc.) but I am having issues switching between channels. I turn everything on (a directv hr-34 box and a Denon AVR 4520CI receiver) and the picture is fine, but when I go to switch to another channel (non 3D) I get three separate ghost images of the same channel on the screen which is not viewable and it states that 3D was detected and if I want to switch to 3D. If I try to go to a movie channel or the movie preview channels, I get that the hdmi connection is not working and that I need to connect everything with component video cables. I have the directv box going through the Denon receiver then on to the tv with an ARC/3D capable hdmi cable connecting both pieces. The folks at Directv walked me through power cycling my tv, receiver and directv box and it gets the picture to return to normal, but I have had to do that twice now in order to get the picture corrected. Everything is working fine now, but my question is whether or not anyone else is having any issues with a similar setup to mine, and if so, what you have done to correct the problem? I hate to think that I have to power cycle the equipment every time this situation occurs.

I believe that if you have calibrator copy the ISF settings into the 3D settings that 3D will look fine.

jdg

I'm not sure, but up-converting your 480i sources to 480p should solve the problem. I had the impression the 480i over HDMI may be a issue. In any case, this is the way I have my setup working.

I believe that you can set the DTV DVR to "native" and also uncheck the 480i box. In this case the DVR should up-convert 480i sources to 480p. If not, you might have the option on your AVR to up-convert 480i sources to 480p.

jdg

agree. i had the same issue. i watch a lot of sports and have indirect sunlight with a window reflection.

i looked at the vt50 and the e8000 side by side. set the vt50 to thx cinema and went back and forth to brightroom. similar setup for the e8000. kept going back and forth. the vt50, while slightly dimmer, was just so much better in color reproduction and detail.

now that i have the vt50 i can use the brightness is more than adequate for day time viewing of sports. watching a really dark film is not as enjoyable, but that is what you have curtains or blinds for, but sports you dont see the reflection unless you are looking for it.

It's really not a 'plasma vs LED' issue. It's a 'anti-reflective filter versus no anti-reflective filter' issue. Less expensive models do not have the filter and reflect just like a big sheet of glass should reflect.

There is a calibrator here who is attempting to do a 3D cal on his own set. The issue is that the colorimeter sensor has to go over the 3D glasses, which is not easy to do.

He might have some suggestions, since I think the only real issue is the brightness (contrast) of the image, not the colors.

KGB173 - I couldn't be happier with my day time viewing either. And I have windows on both sides of my tv. The THX bright room setting is even brighter than Robnix's settings that I now use and I still never feel the need to go back to the bright side.

I think our daytime opinions might just boil down to attempting to give a dog (LED) a bone and let them have their day in the sun

How much light do you really get in your basement?

Depends what is being grown down there

lol

Ok I pulled the trigger. She'll be delivered Sunday. This is my first plasma, and had some questions....

I heard that I should calibrate the screen with a color slide show...is this necessary? (yes I'm worried about burn in...leaving my rear projection 1080p xbr so I'm not use to this concern) If not is there anything I should do specifically in the beginning?

Also, the best buy guy was trying to up sell me on "faster" hdmi cables due to the 600hz speed. Are these necessary?

Thanks, and sorry for the ignorant questions, but I'll learn this new technology...

1. Using slides is not necessary. Just make sure to vary your content and don't go crazy with brightness and contrast for the first month or so and you should be fine. It's a TV, use it.

2. You can buy high-speed HDMI cables (that support 3D and Audio Return Channel (or ARC)) far more cheaply from Amazon or Monoprice. I like the Mediabridge cables from Amazon - other swear by Monoprice cables. Don't believe the Best Buy hype that you need expensive cables.

Thank you. Yeah I wasn't buying from them for sure.

What would be considered safe contrast and brightness?

If you are just watching tv/movies (ie not a gamer) you'll probably get the most enjoyement from your set if you switch the picture mode to one of the two THX presets. Don't freak out when you see the horrible picture that the TV defaults to on standard - its a power consumption gimmick mode