How much light do you really get in your basement?
Honestly I don't know. Right now its not that bright, but its the winter and its cloudy out. I am hoping I can find a side by side comparison in a local shop.
There is a calibrator here who is attempting to do a 3D cal on his own set. The issue is that the colorimeter sensor has to go over the 3D glasses, which is not easy to do.
He might have some suggestions, since I think the only real issue is the brightness (contrast) of the image, not the colors.
I would agree with this. My calibrator copied my ISF Day settings over to 3D, made some slight contrast and Sharpness changes and was done with it. I'll check later to see if he changed anything else between 2D and 3D.
I would agree with this. My calibrator copied my ISF Day settings over to 3D, made some slight contrast and Sharpness changes and was done with it. I'll check later to see if he changed anything else between 2D and 3D.
Usually there is a pretty big grayscale difference but maybe the VT50 is a different animal
Usually there is a pretty big grayscale difference but maybe the VT50 is a different animal
Okay, just compared my two files. Here are the differences:
Contrast: 3D Day: 94; ISF Day: 93
Color: 3D Day:49; ISF Day: 48
Sharpness 3D Day: 4; ISF Day: 0
Color Temp: 3D Day: Normal; ISF Day: Warm 2
Panel Brightness: 3D Day: Normal; ISF Day: Medium
Hope that helps. Just for you to see how my calibration differed from ISF Day to ISF Day 3D. I was wrong when I said is was more about Contrast...sorry!
Thank you. Yeah I wasn't buying from them for sure.
What would be considered safe contrast and brightness?
the basic THX cinema or bright room setting are fine. Bright room takes contrast up to a 100 i think. so you may want to use Cinema or pull up one of the settings posted in the settings forum.
i personally did not run slides. just watched TV, varied my content and put it on HBO channels that were full screen on weekends all day while i went to go run errands. No issues so far with IR, set looks beautiful.
my opinion, if you see issues with the TV like IR, vertical banding, then exchange the set. From what i've read in the thread so far, those with newer build dates, November and December, don't have these issues. you can find the build date on the back of the TV next to the serial number.
you will really enjoy the TV. congrats on the 65. the only thing i wish i did differently was get the bigger one, but our space doesn't allow for it.
I just received my 65VT50 today but when I turn it on it has a black screen and no responses to anything but the on/off button. Am I doing something wrong or do I have a bad unit?
Bummed!
I was assuming you were talking about the "lens flare" effect that J.J. Abrahms uses in all of his movies. Try searching that to see if it's what you are seeing.
Maybe that's what it was. I did not realize Abrahms intentially uses the effect - never noticed it to this degree in his other films. This was a blue band that ran the entire width of the screen, sometimes with a couple much more narrow bands above or below what I will call the primary band. I will search and see what I can find on it. Thx
Maybe that's what it was. I did not realize Abrahms intentially uses the effect - never noticed it to this degree in his other films. This was a blue band that ran the entire width of the screen, sometimes with a couple much more narrow bands above or below what I will call the primary band. I will search and see what I can find on it. Thx
The first movie I watched on the ST30 that we bought last year was Super 8 by JJ Abrahms. That damn lens flare effect came up and I thought there was something wrong with my TV as well. I find it very distracting and hate it.
I've had my VT50 for a month now and there's something that has been bugging me. In a lot of user reviews and professional reviews people describe the contrast and darkness levels as "pitch black," "almost as dark as the bezel". I've tried several settings already and while the blacks blew my old GT10 out of the water, I wouldn't exactly call it almost as dark as the bezel. In fact, even in a completely dark room with the TV on and no signal, I can make out the screen quite easily from the bezel and it's not even close when there is a signal.
Are those descriptions full of hyperbole or do the black levels indeed go a lot closer to the bezel level?
Watch the opening scene to The Dark Knight when the joker and two other criminals are first running into the bank after getting out of the SUV. As the camera pans right to bank, the leading edge of the building shakes like crazy. This is one of my test scenes and with 24P on it is almost unwatchable (to me).
I noticed that on my Samsung 46" series 650 LCD when I first bought that movie. I ended up getting a better Blu-ray player and it all went away. What are you using for a Blu-ray player?
If a different Blu-Ray player solved the problem, then it is doing some sort of frame interpolation, as the effect is quite visible on pretty much any player without it.
I have used both a media player and a PC to play the demux of my Blu-Ray, and can see it on both (regardless of the display), unless I enable some sort of motion smoothing.
Okay, just compared my two files. Here are the differences:
Contrast: 3D Day: 94; ISF Day: 93
Color: 3D Day:49; ISF Day: 48
Sharpness 3D Day: 4; ISF Day: 0
Color Temp: 3D Day: Normal; ISF Day: Warm 2
Panel Brightness: 3D Day: Normal; ISF Day: Medium
Hope that helps. Just for you to see how my calibration differed from ISF Day to ISF Day 3D. I was wrong when I said is was more about Contrast...sorry!
When I calibrate 3D on a VT50 the grayscale and gamma settings are very different from the ISF Day mode. When not looking through the 3D glasses, the 3D mode has a very obvious blue tint to the grayscale.
I've had my VT50 for a month now and there's something that has been bugging me. In a lot of user reviews and professional reviews people describe the contrast and darkness levels as "pitch black," "almost as dark as the bezel". I've tried several settings already and while the blacks blew my old GT10 out of the water, I wouldn't exactly call it almost as dark as the bezel. In fact, even in a completely dark room with the TV on and no signal, I can make out the screen quite easily from the bezel and it's not even close when there is a signal.
Are those descriptions full of hyperbole or do the black levels indeed go a lot closer to the bezel level?
Thanks for your input!
In a dark room with no signal, that is going to be the worst time to check out the black levels and the screen will appear to 'glow'. When they say blend with the bezel, it will look like that typically in a bright scene that also contains blacks such as the letterbox bars.
Unfortunately no, it will not have pitch blacks. It should however have perceived pitch blacks in the bright/dark scenario I describe above.
I just received my 65VT50 today but when I turn it on it has a black screen and no responses to anything but the on/off button. Am I doing something wrong or do I have a bad unit?
Bummed!
You can't even access the menu or change the volume?
Wondering if any of you owners could offer some advice...
With this combination of use, and image retention/burn-in issues (see below) should I not bother with this TV? (TC-P55VT50) (Also I am able to get the Tv for about $1,675)
I use a PC with my TV nearly 50% of the time (working(CAD) sometimes 5+ continuous hours with fixed menus on the screen, gaming, web browsing, watching movies), the other 50% is watching TV (DirecTV) watching a lot of hockey (3 games per night avg lol) Another issue, is most if not all Plasma's flicker to some extent for me. However I don't know if this is something people get used to or? Also the sensitive hearing type where buzzing noises will drive me nuts lol. Damn am I nuts to even consider plasma's or what?
I have my current TV wall mounted, and about 9-10FT away.
Right now I have a Sony 55HX850, which I paid about $2000 for. I am somewhat satisfied with the PQ, but there are of course edge-lit annoyances with the brighter edges etc... (also I did get a set with very minimal flashlighting and no dead pixels) The main thing bugging me is paying $2000 for a edge-lit LED TV, feels like I'm spending way too much on inferior edge lit technology.
I've had a VT50 55 inch for about a week now, and I had a question that I though I'd see if anyone could help with.
For interlaced content (1080i predominantly-native signal) and especially during panning of lighter content, I can see about 1/2 - 1 inch worth of area....mainly on the bottom of the panel.....where the best I can describe it.....looks a little out-of-focus or "blurry". During scenes with less motion, this goes away. It doesn't occur with 1080p content (PS3 BluRay & Netflix) - so I was thinking this has to do with the translation of the 1080i signal by the VT50?
Also, I have 2 other 50 inch plasmas (7 year old Panasonic and a 3 year old Kuro 111FD) and I don't see the same behavior.
Is this normal "break-in" for this panel, or normal behavior for translating a interlaced signal by the VT50? Or could this be an issue with the quality of the FIOS signal?
Wondering if any of you owners could offer some advice...
With this combination of use, and image retention/burn-in issues (see below) should I not bother with this TV? (TC-P55VT50) (Also I am able to get the Tv for about $1,675)
I use a PC with my TV nearly 50% of the time (working(CAD) sometimes 5+ continuous hours with fixed menus on the screen, gaming, web browsing, watching movies), the other 50% is watching TV (DirecTV) watching a lot of hockey (3 games per night avg lol)
I have my current TV wall mounted, and about 9-10FT away.
Right now I have a Sony 55HX850, which I paid about $2000 for. I am somewhat satisfied with the PQ, but there are of course edge-lit annoyances with the brighter edges etc... (also I did get a set with very minimal flashlighting and no dead pixels) The main thing bugging me is paying $2000 for a edge-lit LED TV, feels like I'm spending way too much on inferior edge lit technology.
Any advice?
Thanks,
If you are going to be using it as a pc monitor a lot then plasma is not for you.
If you are going to be using it as a pc monitor a lot then plasma is not for you.
Ok thank you! Needed someone to confirm this, my brain keeps bouncing back and forth on this set.
FYI (don't know if price talk is not allowed or not on this thread) but amazon just dropped their price massively on this set, which is why I started to consider this set 55" is $1599)
If a different Blu-Ray player solved the problem, then it is doing some sort of frame interpolation, as the effect is quite visible on pretty much any player without it.
I have used both a media player and a PC to play the demux of my Blu-Ray, and can see it on both (regardless of the display), unless I enable some sort of motion smoothing.
There weren't any effects enabled. Just by switching the player from the Sony BDP-S350 to the Pioneer BDP-51FD both at 24hz and 1080p and the problem went away. Could it just be a result of a better video processor in the Blu-ray player?
Hello all, first time posting so hopefully this is in the right spot. I've got a possibly stupid question. My 65VT50 came with a roughly six foot power cord. The problem is I need a ten foot plus cord. I called Panasonic to see if they'd make me one and they said no. I've searched the net for a longer cord but can't seem to find one with the same tv side connection. Any ideas? Does the end make that big of a difference? Found a right angle one on monoprice. Would it work? Thanks in advance for the help!!
If you are thinking about dropping the power cord between the wall and the out to a plug, you may want to rethink that. Its my understanding that doing that is a no-no and violates code.
ss
There is a company that provides a kit that makes it easy pass power safely through a wall and not violate code. I've installed two of their units and all it took was a sheet rock knife and a screw driver. The company's name is PowerBridge. You have to buy the Romex 3 Conductor wire (12-2 or 1`4-2 type UL approved) locally.
There weren't any effects enabled. Just by switching the player from the Sony BDP-S350 to the Pioneer BDP-51FD both at 24hz and 1080p and the problem went away. Could it just be a result of a better video processor in the Blu-ray player?
You've got an amazing player there! It advertises that it does just what you said as well. Got me interested for sure!
I just received my 65VT50 today but when I turn it on it has a black screen and no responses to anything but the on/off button. Am I doing something wrong or do I have a bad unit?
Bummed!
You can't even access the menu or change the volume
Not anything, black screen, power light comea on and I can hear the fan. nothing else.
There is a company that provides a kit that makes it easy pass power safely through a wall and not violate code. I've installed two of their units and all it took was a sheet rock knife and a screw driver. The company's name is PowerBridge. You have to buy the Romex 3 Conductor wire (12-2 or 1`4-2 type UL approved) locally.
Some towns like mine, do not allow Romex. You must use conduit, however if you are just going up from and tying into a existing outlet you probably can use flexible conduit and run the 12 gauge wires through to the new outlet box. I would and did hire a pro to do that, and as long as there is nothing in the way of the pipe you will not have to remove any drywall except of course the cut out for the new outlet box. Cost me about $250 for a 4 plug outlet under my TV and using the on off wall switch on the wall I have one of the outlet plugs turn on and off for my back light.
There is a company that provides a kit that makes it easy pass power safely through a wall and not violate code. I've installed two of their units and all it took was a sheet rock knife and a screw driver. The company's name is PowerBridge. You have to buy the Romex 3 Conductor wire (12-2 or 1`4-2 type UL approved) locally.
Some towns like mine, do not allow Romex. You must use conduit, however if you are just going up from and tying into a existing outlet you probably can use flexible conduit and run the 12 gauge wires through to the new outlet box. I would and did hire a pro to do that, and as long as there is nothing in the way of the pipe you will not have to remove any drywall except of course the cut out for the new outlet box. Cost me about $250 for a 4 plug outlet under my TV and using the on off wall switch on the wall I have one of the outlet plugs turn on and off for my back light.
ss
The PowerBridge is really a Romex in wall extension cord. It's never connected directly to live power. The kit comes with face plates and receptacles that you install in standard outlet boxes. On the TV side the receptacle is female. On the "power" side the receptacle is male. The kit also comes with a three prong heavy duty 36" extension (male/female) cord.
The kits I used were five years ago. The company has expended there product line a lot since then.
I will second and third Powerbridge. Their products were easy to install. The new kits are suppose to come with romex wire. The two kits I got didn't come with it and so I had to go out and get my own, but I emailed them about it and they kindly reimbursed me the cost of the wire.
On a different note, I've been using the vt50 for a couple of weeks now and it's great. I also recently purchased a logitech harmony one universal remote and have set up the various activities i.e. watch tv. However, upon using the remote I started noticing an occasional horizontal flicker on the tv when I turn on the components through the programmed activity. It seems to happen after the oppo 103 turns on. Doesn't seem to happen if i don't use the harmony one and when i turn on the various components individually with their respective remotes. One, is this normal? and two, if yes, then will it harm the tv in any way if this occurs repeatedly over the course of the tv's lifespan? Thanks for any responses.
I just received my 65VT50 today but when I turn it on it has a black screen and no responses to anything but the on/off button. Am I doing something wrong or do I have a bad unit?
Bummed!
You can't even access the menu or change the volume
Not anything, black screen, power light comea on and I can hear the fan. nothing else.
Got the call last night that my 65" arrived at BB. Drove the truck today so I can swing by and pick it up, down side is it's -6 degrees right now so it will take a while to warm up once in the house tonight. The other bummer is, I work outside!
When using ARC/HDMI (1.4), will the output be limited to just DD or will it output the same audio signal that is being sent to the VT50 via HDMI (1.4)?
ss
Update; This is what I found out about my question.
"ARC can convey Dolby Digital, DTS, and PCM, but none of the advanced codecs, such as Dolby Digital Plus, Dolby TrueHD, or DTS-HD. After all, none of these codecs are used with over-the-air, cable, or streaming content." Edited by sillysally - 1/24/13 at 10:29am