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Marantz NR1403 and NR1603 Slim Line Receiver Thread - Page 8

post #211 of 774
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

^^
A key point to note is that when comparing the various models at Magnolia, you were not listening to the speakers using Audyssey. There would likely have been a noticeable difference when comparing the 1403/1603 which use MultEQ to the higher version Audyssey MultEQ XT in the 5006/7 and Denon "CI" models. Also the 1603 would be considered the sister model to the 1913.

Good point about the difference between Marantz and Denon with Audyssey post calibration. I would love for someone to post there results comparing a Marantz 1603 to the Marantz 5007/6007 with the same exact speakers being only the audyssey and amplifier wattage but post calibration set to the same spl level for critical listening to see if the audyssey actually makes a difference or is snake oil marketing like monster cable. Maybe post calibration both brands sound the exact same, then it would make sense to go with the best features to price ratio.

Also I noticed that the 1403/ 1603 and 6007 and 2113/3113 all ran cool for the entire listening session with 5007 running hot the entire time.
post #212 of 774
So I thought I wold give the NR1403 a try.

I am using it in a room that was initially a 10' x 10' bed room, transformed to a small music room/studio and now more of a whole media room. Prior to putting in this unit I was using a NAD 355BEE stereo integrated amp and Grant Fidelity DAC connected to my computer for music. I added a TV, BluRay and AppleTV to the room and found that connectivity to all the sources and the TV was getting a bit complicated (messy). I was also looking to adding a sub and moving to a 2.1 setup.

I was thinking an AV pre/pro (Emotiva or Outlaw) and using the power amp stage of the NAD would be way to go but came across the NR1403/1603 at pretty good price point. I really didn't need the networking stuff and wasn't too interested in the surround sound capabilities of either so went with the 1403. I had two concerns going into this. Since the system is primarily used for music I was concerned with music sound quality. I was also concerned with output of the Marantz unit (moving from 80 watts per channel down to 50).

Overall I am pretty happy with the setup. Without the sub my old setup certainly sounded by better but the addition of the sub certainly does compensate here and with some tuning I think the overall sound quality has improved as a result. As far as an output perspective I certainly have to spin the dial a bit further to get volume but full volume is still too loud to listen to comfortably so is just fine for the environment it is in. The much improved convenience factor is the icing on the cake.

While this is a great set up for the small room I currently have it in I am thinking it would quickly reach its limits in a larger space.
post #213 of 774
Ok, as is often the case when I visit this forum, I need someone to talk to me like I am seven years old. I am definitely getting either the 1403 or the 1603. I am *pretty* sure that I don't need or want any of the extra features of the 1603, and so would be very happy to save the significant difference in price.

Here's why I think the 1403 is fine for me -- please let me know if I'm off base:

1) 5.1 is perfect for me. I don't want or need 7.1.

2) I don't want or need streaming apps or airplay.

3) The video on my TV (from cable box and PS3) already looks excellent, so I do not think I need the video processing of the 1603.

4) I'll survive with no USB port.

5) I understand that the GUI on the 1403 is a little more dated and a little less polished than the 1603, but I don't think that would bug me -- I shouldn't be using that too often anyway, right?

6) The 1403 comes with a slightly inferior version of Audyssey than the 1603 -- is this a big deal in my budget home theater setup?

So what else is there between the two models? Am I missing some other reason I might want to spend the additional money?

The only piece I don't really understand is the ethernet connection -- are they the same or different? One of the posts above suggested that I'll need to do software updates on the receiver? I won't be able to get an ethernet cable to this thing. Can I assume it will work just fine out of the box with no ability to update or to "network"?

Thanks so much in advance!
post #214 of 774
Quote:
Originally Posted by Noobio2 View Post

Ok, as is often the case when I visit this forum, I need someone to talk to me like I am seven years old. I am definitely getting either the 1403 or the 1603. I am *pretty* sure that I don't need or want any of the extra features of the 1603, and so would be very happy to save the significant difference in price.

Here's why I think the 1403 is fine for me -- please let me know if I'm off base:

1) 5.1 is perfect for me. I don't want or need 7.1.

2) I don't want or need streaming apps or airplay.

3) The video on my TV (from cable box and PS3) already looks excellent, so I do not think I need the video processing of the 1603.

4) I'll survive with no USB port.

5) I understand that the GUI on the 1403 is a little more dated and a little less polished than the 1603, but I don't think that would bug me -- I shouldn't be using that too often anyway, right?

6) The 1403 comes with a slightly inferior version of Audyssey than the 1603 -- is this a big deal in my budget home theater setup?

So what else is there between the two models? Am I missing some other reason I might want to spend the additional money?

The only piece I don't really understand is the ethernet connection -- are they the same or different? One of the posts above suggested that I'll need to do software updates on the receiver? I won't be able to get an ethernet cable to this thing. Can I assume it will work just fine out of the box with no ability to update or to "network"?

Thanks so much in advance!
So your requirements are exactly why I went with 1403 as opposed to the 1603. They actually both use Audyssey MultiEQ so no difference there. You have to step up to the SR5007 if you want the MultiEQXT version. As far as software updates goes, I'm not exactly sure how that's going to go if needed as there is no ethernet port nor is there a USB port. I think the upgrades discussed were to address some problems with some of the network features and shouldn't apply to the 1403.
post #215 of 774
Have you considered the 1602? Price is about US$400 and it's substantially the same as the 1603. Lacks the video upgrade that you don't care about. Has a little plus in the AM radio, which was removed on the 1603.
post #216 of 774
I've found something a bit odd with hdmi ports. I was trying to connect my iMac to the 1403 through the game hdmi port. Couldn't get it to work. I went through all the steps recommended by Apple to reset the video settings and still nothing. Next step was to reconnecting everything and voila it worked. I noticed however that I had accidentally plugged the computer into the media player port and my applets into the game port. I checked the appletv and that seemed to be working as well. So I thought I would try the tv in the game port again and it just won't work with that set up. Fortunately everything works fine with the computer connected to the media port but I just find it very odd that it works on one port and not the other.
post #217 of 774
Historically some devices will only work on certain inputs likely due to the different signal paths on the board which is why it's always recommended to try EVERY HDMI input when a device does not work correctly.
post #218 of 774
hi all,
I bought MARANTZ 1603 a few weeks ago.
I have a problem with zone 2, I can't set the zone 2 from different sources with remote or android app.
I can change the volume in each zone but if i change the source in zone 2 then mainzone changing also.
i can set zone 2 from from different sources if i press the button directly from front panel.
how to I setup different source in zone 2 with remote or android app?
thanks
Edited by edhiemaz - 1/19/13 at 11:17am
post #219 of 774
Have you tried following the Zone 2 instructions on p. 95 in the 6003 Owner's manual? If yes, you may want to try a soft reset (ie. unplug the unit for 10 minutes).
post #220 of 774
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Have you tried following the Zone 2 instructions on p. 95 in the 6003 Owner's manual? If yes, you may want to try a soft reset (ie. unplug the unit for 10 minutes).
yes i did, i have soft reset also, but i still can't setup it with remote or android app.
post #221 of 774
Has anyone had issues viewing 3D content through their Marantz 1603? I just hooked it up yesterday, and I noticed today my Direct TV DVR won't allow me to view the 3D channels...it tells my either I don't have a 3D TV (which I definitely do) or my receiver is not 3D compatible, which I am pretty sure it is. Any ideas? I am sure I just missed some obvious setting somewhere, but I can't figure it out.
post #222 of 774
And never mind...nothing a quick reset couldn't fix. biggrin.gif
post #223 of 774
Ok, clearly I'm doing something wrong in setting up my new 1403. Any help would be greatly appreciated -- but remember, I've been out of the receiver business for decades, so go easy on me if I am being really dumb.

I hooked the L/C/R speakers to the 1403. I plugged my Comcast cable box to HDMI input 1 (CBL/SAT) , and my PS3 to HDMI input 4 (GAME) on the back of the 1403. I connected the 1403 HDMI out (MONITOR ARC) to the TV's HDMI 1 input (TV is Panasonic L55ET5). With everything plugged in and on, I got no sound to the speakers no matter what inputs / settings I tried. TV speakers are off, and TV is set to HDMI 1 input. When I set the 1403 to cable / sat, the picture showed up, but no sound. When I switched to HDMI 4 / Game input on 1403, I got no picture or sound whatsoever.

So to check everything. I pulled all the cables and set the TV as the switcher as follows: Comcast cable box via HDMI directly to TV input 1. PS3 via HDMI directly to TV input 2. Optical cable out from TV to 1403 optical input. All parts work perfectly -- great picture, great sound, from both cable and PS3 (black ops 2 sounds great -- and I don't even have the sub yet!).

So shouldn't I be able to use the receiver as the switcher? What was I doing wrong in the first configuration? I guess I can live with it as is, but not what was I was expecting.

Thanks in advance!

Noobio
post #224 of 774
^^
Yes, of course you should be able to use the 1403 as the switcher, although cable/sat box connections more often then not have to be connected to the TV with optical from the box to the AVR. Try resetting the microprocessor (p. 93 OM).
post #225 of 774
Thanks JD. I'll try the reset, but do you mean to say that I should not be using HDMI to connect the cable box to the 1403, but rather optical? Does the 1403 even have such an input?
post #226 of 774
I'm saying that you can try that initially, but if it won't work correctly, then connect the HDMI directly to the TV with optical to the 1403 optical input as noted in the image below.


post #227 of 774
I want to know if PRE OUT for front speakers is FIXED or VARIABLE in NR1403/NR1603 ¿is the same for both models?

this is for using a stereo amplifer HK990 for front speakers. I need a variable pre out
post #228 of 774
Main zone pre-outs are "variable" on these models as the volume can be controlled from the AVR.
post #229 of 774
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Main zone pre-outs are "variable" on these models as the volume can be controlled from the AVR.

Will Pure Direct (1403) eliminate all signal processing and send the unprocessed signal to the pre-outs with only volume control present? Also, when using Pre-outs, will Front L/R speaker outputs on AVR be canceled?

Thanks,
Lacro
post #230 of 774
Since integrating the 1603 I've been a little disappointed with the way things aren't working together with HDMI CEC. I have a LG BD660 Bluray player, Sony HX750 LCD and a Tivo. The first two of these use HDMI 1.4 and should be working together with the receiver, so here are some real observations (this thread could use a few more);

What works;
- Power on/off TV powers on/off receiver
- TV recognizes receiver as separate audio system and disables TV speakers
- Volume on TV changes volume on receiver

But what doesn't work;
- Any sort of automatic input switching on TV and receiver. Switching from TV to Bluray now requires input selection on TV, then separate input selection on receiver, which is twice as complicated as before.
- Channel change on receiver (remote) doesn't affect TV so the receiver remote is good for volume only.
- Power off receiver doesn't relay a power off to Bluray depiste having this configuration enabled
- Scan/search/menu on receiver doesn't affect Bluray

Maybe this is not the fault of the Marantz receiver and just a rubbish support for the HDMI CEC "specification" across difference devices (usually addressed by a voluntary compliance level I guess)? But how does this line up with other peoples' experiences?
post #231 of 774
^^
Regarding HDMI-CEC, you shouldn't expect anything more than what you already are (ie. On/Off and volume changes).

With the release of the 2012 model remotes, D&M has moved away from letting the remote control other devices (except for 3313Ci, 7701, and 7007 which retain this feature). The 1402 remote is able to control channel selection of a SAT/CBL box predefined in its memory. With the 1403, you would be much better served purchasing a Harmony remote which can make the changes you desire in some cases with just a single button press.
post #232 of 774
Quote:
Originally Posted by lacro View Post

Will Pure Direct (1403) eliminate all signal processing and send the unprocessed signal to the pre-outs with only volume control present? Also, when using Pre-outs, will Front L/R speaker outputs on AVR be canceled?

Thanks,
Lacro

Yes to the first and no to the second.
post #233 of 774
Hi
I want to buy nr1603 for my Bose AC6 series.Would you recommend this receiver for bose Ac series?
Thanks
post #234 of 774
Although it will work, as the AC6 uses no stand alone sub (ie. the speakers are connected to the sub), Audyssey will not be able to EQ the subwoofer. If possible, suggest selling the AC6 setup and replacing with another 5.1 setup (eg. Energy Take 5.1 Classic) which will likely sound better and put some money back into your pocket. smile.gif
post #235 of 774
i have nr 1402, right now i'm using def tech satelite speaker,
right now i'm looking for bookshelf speaker, and i wondering can this avr drive speaker with 4 ohm impedance?
post #236 of 774
At low to average volume in a small room it should be able to, but at higher volume levels (eg. movie level) or in a med/larger room you'll want an AVR that can handle 4-ohm loads.
post #237 of 774
Ok folks -- what am I doing wrong? I've FINALLY got all 5.1 speakers hooked up to my NR1403 yesterday. I ran Audyssey, and all 5.1 speakers dutifully chirped into the microphone (so I know they are all working). I stored the calculated settings, and checked that the fronts were set to "small." I threw a Blu-Ray (Bourne Legacy) into the PS3 and got it playing. Sound emanated from all 5.1 speakers, so in that sense I was indeed "surrounded." But even listening carefully, I did not detect any directionality or locationality from the setup, if you know what I mean. Gunshots in the distance, an airplane taking off from one side to the other -- none of it "moved around" in space, from a sound perspective. Sound was indeed coming from all speakers (including surrounds), but it almost sounded like they were all getting the same signal. I hope I am describing this clearly enough.

Any thoughts? Any help would be appreciated. The boys are coming over for the superbowl and maybe a movie tonight (I'm thinking Avengers), so I really want to get this sorted out ASAP -- need them to be impressed!

For background, I am still using the TV to switch. The cable box and PS3 are directly connected to TV inputs 1 and 2 (respectively) via HDMI. Digital optical cable out from TV to NR1403 [is that the problem?]. Also have an HDMI cable running from NR1403 "monitor ARC" to HDMI input 3 on the TV so that I can see / access the NR1403's on-screen directions and menus.

Thanks!
post #238 of 774
Yup .. that's the problem. The TV is likely only passing stereo 2.0 audio to the AVR with the devices connected directly to it. Connect your devices to the AVR and let it do the HDMI switching. This will also allow the DD/DTS 5.1 audio to pass to the AVR. Note however, that even with a stereo signal, you can press/hold the MOVIE button (Sound Mode section) on the remote and select DD PLII - Cinema in order to "simulate" 5.1 audio.
post #239 of 774
Thanks again, jdsmoothie. I'll give that a try when I have a few minutes this afternoon. Recall our exchange earlier in this thread, though (posts 223 to 225). I initially had it set up that way and could not get things to work even close to right. You suggested that the cable box was the culprit. I can't do the test right now, but when I do, assuming I get the same result, then am I just SOL?

I'm trying not to get ahead of myself, but that would be extremely frustrating. What is the point of all this equipment if I can't even get actual 5.1 out of it??? And if that is the case, where was the error? Did I buy the wrong gear, or are we all just at the mercy of crummy cable boxes? Maybe "simulated" 5.1 is better than nothing, but shouldn't I be able to get real 5.1 with all new equipment?

Please don't think I am shooting the messenger. This forum, and you especially, have been incredibly helpful and generous with your time and expertise. I greatly appreciate your continued support through this moment of frustration.

Noobio
post #240 of 774
Sorry, no didn't recall as I post in well over a dozen owner's threads each day and can barely remember what I said that day let alone a previous week. smile.gif That said, my suggestion applied ONLY to the cable box and that conguration was cable box (HDMI) to the TV with cable box (optical) to the AVR, not TV(optical) to the AVR. All other devices should be connected HDMI directly to the AVR especially for the Blu Ray player so you can take advantage of the DD/DTS 5.1 on DVDs/BDs.
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