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Marantz NR1403 and NR1603 Slim Line Receiver Thread - Page 15

post #421 of 766
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

AFAIK they'll still be cut (actually rolled off).

Regarding the issue, whether or not turning off the subwoofer in the Audio menu changes the frequency range of the mains... I just tested this playing some 60Hz testtone:

Mains set to small, crossover to 250, Bassmode LFE:
SW on -> SW only plays the low frequency (Mains get cutt off as expected)
SW off -> Mains now play the low frequency (no longer get cut off no matter if there's a crossover set). It seems it "internally" changes the mains to Large.

Mains set to small, crossover to 250, Bassmode LFE+Main:
SW on -> SW only plays low freq
SW off -> Mains play the low freq

Mains set to large, crossover to 250, Bassmode LFE+Main:
SW on -> Both play low freq
SW off -> Only mains play low freq

Mains set to small, crossover to 40, Bassmode LFE+Main:
SW On -> Doesn't play the low freq, or just a tiny bit since I played a 60Hz testtone
SW off -> Only Mains play low freq

So I learned,two things from this:
1. Turning off the SW (in 2 channel mode) will play all low freq through the mains even if they are set to small and their crossover would normally send them to the sub. That means if I want to take some low freq load off the mains I set them to small, but I'm still able to enjoy 2 channel music without sub and the mains playing full range. I wish this was also possible for multichannel sound... but there I can at least turn the sub down to -12dB.
2. The crossover setting for the mains when they are set to large and bassmode is LFE+Main determines which low frequencies are ALSO played by the sub.

I suppose this applies to all newer Marantz and Denon receivers.
Edited by pmcl77 - 4/4/13 at 12:55pm
post #422 of 766
Thanks for the followup. smile.gif
post #423 of 766
Hey folks,

Just wanted to give a little update... got my new KEFs (R500, R200c) a few days ago and love them. Out of curiosity and a slight concern of missing power of the NR1603 I had ordered a Denon AVR 3313 to compare... Result so far is, that I like the Marantz better for Music 2 Channel listening.

There's not much of a difference in Direct mode, I'd say I slightly prefer the Marantz. However, with the Denon using Stereo (Audyssey turned on) voices suddenly sounded unnatural and low frequencies tended sometimes to boom/drone too much. Interesting since the Denon uses the Audyssey XT vs the smaller one on the Marantz. (I used all the same measurementpoints and Setup for testing).

Interesting looking at the Audyssey EQ curves also: Denon's MultEQ XT tunes down frequencies from 100Hz to about 50Hz and turns them up below that, while the MultEQ in the Marantz leaves that range almost unchanged (slightly turned down).

It's probably my setup of speakers an room that determines that result, but it might be true that Marant is a touch more musical vs Denon being more "movie-dynamic". I also read from someone else thatnhe found the Denon to be too strong in the low freqs.

Since music is better with the Marantz for my Setup (Speakers, room) I will not test Multichannel performance for Movies between those two...
post #424 of 766
pmcl77,

Would you be willing to try an experiment and do another calibration of your Denon receiver using the microphone from the Marantz?

Those particular microphones are supposed to be interchangeable. There have been some reports of defective microphones in the past few months. I'm curious as to how much of the difference is due to XT and how much to variations between microphones.
post #425 of 766
^^
The 2012 and 2013 D&M models all use the exact same mic. smile.gif
post #426 of 766
Invariably there are differences between individual units. I seem to recall that the spec people have been quoting is +/- 2 dB. But some are going to be worse. frown.gif
post #427 of 766
Yes, the +/- 2db error rate is correct for the AVR mics ... rather merely pointing out that the D&M models no longer use different model mics.
post #428 of 766
I am thinking about NR1403 vs waiting for NR1504

The only thing that worries me about 1403 is inability to get firmware updates, but then again, hopefully it should work well out of the box with no "game-breaking" flaws that need to be fixed by a firmware update.

It will be used for a 2.1 setup with the living room TV (Orb speakers and an Outlaw sub). Probably will just run a Toslink cable from TV's output to the receiver.

Yes, ideally should run all HDMI sources through the receiver, but family will complain about extra remove control and the need to switch on the receiver etc so I plan to only switch it on when I myself am watching something, everyone else is quite happy with the speakers built into the TV.

My feeling is that with these requirements, it should work right out of the box and should not really need any firmware updates.

Any 1403 owners care to comment?

I currently own Marantz SR7005 which I use for my basement projector setup and this thing has had multiple firmware updates since I bought it. Not sure if I noticed any difference, but makes you paranoid that with non-upgradeable product you can be stuck with something defective that will never be fixed. At the same time, not sure I should entertain my paranoia and pay extra $100 dollars.
Edited by durack - 4/7/13 at 7:59pm
post #429 of 766
durak,

Hardware which does not support network or USB firmware updates can be sent to a repair center for firmware updates. Of course, the xx03 series has been out long enough that one can hope that recently manufactured units have the worst bugs already fixed.
post #430 of 766
Quote:
Originally Posted by Selden Ball View Post

pmcl77,

Would you be willing to try an experiment and do another calibration of your Denon receiver using the microphone from the Marantz?

Those particular microphones are supposed to be interchangeable. There have been some reports of defective microphones in the past few months. I'm curious as to how much of the difference is due to XT and how much to variations between microphones.

Actually.... I did use the mic of the marantz... was too lazy to unroll the cable twice smile.gif

I said I did use the same positions, however even though setting markers for positions on the couch of course there could be some slight differences... an inch left, back, right... one degree different angle. So not sure how much of a difference this might have.

Even though I like playing around with electronic units (my girlfriend said I should become a tester and get paid for the hourlong testing and tweaking) I'm getting a bit tired of it now and start to fall back to "apple mode" (plug and play) smile.gif

I also must say I have become to like the little marantz quite a lot. As said earlier my only concern is missing power at higher levels. Not so much that the unit itself gets busted but much more in care of my new beloved speakers. Is there actually a real danger of busting the drivers or wouldn't the receiver switch of when getting over its powerpeak?

Btw: just checked out the specs of the new xx04 Models and the talk about increased power in the news articles is just plain marketing talk, it has exactly the same specs as the 03 models.
post #431 of 766
Here is the problem--even though my HTPC appears to be outputting 5.1 PCM to the 1403 via HDMI, I am only getting stereo output. The STATUS says 3/2/.1 fs:48kHz, and the DIG and PCM lights are on, still only stereo. Within the HTPC, HDMI is set as source, the speakers test fine on the 5.1 test, and WIndows Media Center is set up for it as well. I have never seen the DD or DTS light on, and I am running network TV(UsuallyDD) through the equipment, and that shows as DD on the windows media center screen. I always end up with MULTI IN and stereo sound. I must be missing a setting somewhere. I tried all the HDMI inputs with no change. ANy ideas?

UPDATE I found an obscure setting in Windows Media Center that reduces the volume differences between programs and commercials. If you have this AUTO VOLUME checked, it disables Dolby! That solves that problem.


Now, onto the next. If I play music from my HTPC through the 1403 in stereo, my subwoofer is not used. My mains are set to full range--do I need to change something in the Audyssey screen so the sub is used during stereo operation?
Edited by Fatawan - 4/10/13 at 12:32pm
post #432 of 766
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatawan View Post

Here is the problem--even though my HTPC appears to be outputting 5.1 PCM to the 1403 via HDMI, I am only getting stereo output. The STATUS says 3/2/.1 fs:48kHz, and the DIG and PCM lights are on, still only stereo. Within the HTPC, HDMI is set as source, the speakers test fine on the 5.1 test, and WIndows Media Center is set up for it as well. I have never seen the DD or DTS light on, and I am running network TV(UsuallyDD) through the equipment, and that shows as DD on the windows media center screen. I always end up with MULTI IN and stereo sound. I must be missing a setting somewhere. I tried all the HDMI inputs with no change. ANy ideas?

UPDATE I found an obscure setting in Windows Media Center that reduces the volume differences between programs and commercials. If you have this AUTO VOLUME checked, it disables Dolby! That solves that problem.


Now, onto the next. If I play music from my HTPC through the 1403 in stereo, my subwoofer is not used. My mains are set to full range--do I need to change something in the Audyssey screen so the sub is used during stereo operation?

You need to manually configure all speakers as "Small" in the receiver. That really means "enable bass management" and is not meant to denigrate the quality of your speakers. When speakers are designated Small, frequencies below the crossover frequency are redirected to the subwoofer.
post #433 of 766
Quote:
Originally Posted by Selden Ball View Post

Would you be willing to try an experiment and do another calibration of your Denon receiver using the microphone from the Marantz?
.

Hi,

Checked settings yesterday. As it turned out, Restorer was set active in the 3313, and as far as I know, this just increases low and high frequency levels... rolleyes.gif

Without restorer, the 3313 sounded much better with Audyssey now. Compared to the NR1603 it delivers more punch in the low freques event without DynEQ, whereas in the Marantz only DynEQ can bring that punch (though the latter does sound pretty good with DynEQ). But still I found in this short retest, that voices still sound a bit more natural on the Marantz vs. the Denon... but didn't have time for extensive listening.

Phil
post #434 of 766
Apologies if this was covered somewhere in this lengthy thread but can ayone tell me if there is a way to get my hands on a 1403 (or even a 1603) in SILVER?

I see them in silver as being available all over the world....except here in the land of plenty rolleyes.gif

Russ
post #435 of 766
Silver only outside of North America.
post #436 of 766
Any old 1602 owners that upgraded to 1603? Been using the 1602 in my living room with a rotel amp and old ESS AMT 1 speakers for stereo and some tv watching. The media server interface is a little janky and I actually ended up buying the DeRemote app because the one from Denon/Marantz is unreliable. I'm curious if anyone can pause media server playback, either through their OEM remote, apps or the browser interface. I have never been able to get that to work, even with the factory remote.
post #437 of 766
Hi, I installed several new systems with brand new equipment.
I am having issues with the NR1603's and HDMI and HDCP handshaking.

System 1:
LG 55LM9600
Monoprice Redmere slim 10' HDMI cable
Marantz NR1603
Kinivo 501BN HDMI switch
Sony PS3 game console
Zotac ZBOX ID42 HTPC

Problem:
Powering the PS3 or ID42 on, the AVR looks like it is trying to connect, then shows no input, and the TV says no input.
I tried with and without the HDMI switch, same problem.
I tried with a Yamaha RX-V371 AVR, it has no problems.
The same NR1603 system has no problems with a XBox360, Roku3, Samsung BD player, or HD DVR.


System 2:
LG 47LM8600
Monoprice Redmere slim 20' HDMI cable
Marantz NR1603
Roku 3 media player
Zotac ZBOX ID42 HTPC

Problem:
Powering the ID42 on, the AVR looks like it is trying to connect, then shows no input, and the TV says no input.
When switching to direct mode the Roku prints HDCP error on the screen, I have to exit direct mode and power cycle the AVR to get the Roku to work again.
I tried with a Yamaha RX-V371 AVR, no problems.
The same system has no problems with a Samsung BD player or a HD DVR.


Any recommendations on how to get the system working, of all things the PS3 is such a common device that I find it hard to believe it won't connect.
Any ideas?

P.
post #438 of 766
With BDPs the solution is generally to disable the "Deep Color Output" setting. To minimize HDMI handshake issues in general, power on the TV, pause, the AVR, pause, then finally the source device.
post #439 of 766
One comment and one question fellas.

First, I had terrible handshake issues with my NR1603 and my Panasonic GT60. I swapped HDMI cables and no problem. Cured.

Second. Is the only way to run a subwoofer on Zone 2 to use high level inputs to the sub amp? TIA!

Joey B
post #440 of 766
Yup ... pretty much.
post #441 of 766
hey everyone.

I've had the 1603 for about a month.

Just curious about the differences in sound settings. Multi-channel vs Dolby vs DTS.

What do you guys use and why?
post #442 of 766
Hi all,

I am considering purchasing the Marantz NR1603 to replace a Kenwood receiver and equalizer that I have had for nearly 15 years. The Kenwood components still work perfectly, but I am beyond due for an upgrade. My biggest concern is whether the NR1603 is right for my front main speakers. I am currently running a 2.1 system (which I hope to upgrade soon to a 5.1 or 7.1 system) with two JBL Studio S412P speakers, each having its own powered subwoofer and LFE input, in a small to mid-size entertainment room. Despite their size, the S412Ps are pretty efficient with a 91dB sensitivity rating. I love these speakers so getting rid of them is not really an option that I am willing to consider at this point.

Will the NR1603 be powerful enough for the JBL Studio S412P speakers? I suspect the answer to this is yes given their efficiency, the size of my room, and the fact that you can bi-amp the NR1603, but what if i begin utilizing all or more of the speaker channels? Also, is the Audyssey MultEQ going to cause problems with the built-in powered subwoofers or vice versa? Finally, if the NR1603 is not right for what I want to do, does anyone have any suggestions for something at a reasonably comparable price point?

Thanks.
post #443 of 766
The 1603 should be sufficient for your needs (especially at average listening volume levels) although note the "bi-amp" capability will add no real additional power. Audyssey will not cause any problems, and if you do not have a dedicated sub, you would simply still set sub to YES and use the LFE connection to the FL/FR speakers via a "Y" splitter cable. You may also want to consider the newer replacement 1604 depending on the price difference.
post #444 of 766
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

The 1603 should be sufficient for your needs (especially at average listening volume levels) although note the "bi-amp" capability will add no real additional power. Audyssey will not cause any problems, and if you do not have a dedicated sub, you would simply still set sub to YES and use the LFE connection to the FL/FR speakers via a "Y" splitter cable. You may also want to consider the newer replacement 1604 depending on the price difference.

Thanks, especially for your clarification re the bi-amp feature. I just assumed that would allow me to increase the power output. As to your comment re the 1604, I was actually looking at the new 1504, but it looks like Amazon is showing several new 1603s being offered at the same price point (I assume this is due to the introduction of the 1604). There seems to be very little difference between the 1504 and 1603, except that the 1603 offers the ability to expand to a 7.1 system or a 2 zone setup. Am I missing something?
post #445 of 766
Great thread. It´s been a while since I update my AVR so I´m pretty out of the whole scene. I´m thinking of getting the 1403. Browsed the whole thread but couldn´t find a answer to this:

I have an old mac mini that doensn´t have hdmi output. So I need to to connect the audio to AVRs optical input and video from minis displayport/hdmi converter to to AVRs hdmi input. Does this work? Can I configure the AVR so that audio is played from the optical input while video is passed through from AVR hdmi1 to TV? If possible, I don´t want to connect the mac minis video directly to my TV.

Other similiar scenario would be that xbox video gets passed though AVRs hdmi input to TV while music is played from optical input of mac mini. So can the audio and video inputs be controlled separately? Thanks.
post #446 of 766
^^
If you connect/assign both HDMI and optical inputs to the same source name you can change the INPUT MODE to "Digital" to accomplish your first scenerio; however, independent video and audio is not possible when using HDMI video sources.
post #447 of 766
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

^^
If you connect/assign both HDMI and optical inputs to the same source name you can change the INPUT MODE to "Digital" to accomplish your first scenerio; however, independent video and audio is not possible when using HDMI video sources.

Thanks for the reply. I was afraid of that.
post #448 of 766
I am having issues setting up my NR1603 to my sharp aquos, I have the HDMI cables running into the marantz from the DVR and Blu-ray then out to the TV, however all I get is alternating black screen/snow regardless of the input I plug into . I have quadruple checked the cables upgraded to better cables and marantz and Sharp just point fingers at each other. Does anyone have any insight they might be able to offer?
post #449 of 766
Make sure you've disabled "deep color" in your input devices.

Just for testing, set them to output 1080i instead of "auto" or "direct". If that works, then the problem really is in the cables. Get Redmere cables from Monoprice. They include HDMI equalization and amplification to improve the signal. They're also much thinner and lighter than standard cables, so they don't put a strain on the connectors.
post #450 of 766
I'm totally baffled, so I'm posting here to see if I'm just missing the mark or if anyone else has encountered this same problem. I attempting to use my headphones with my Marantz-based system, but I'm trying to engage them remotely while not having to get up and plug the headphones into its front panel (I know - complete and unjustifiable laziness rolleyes.gifbiggrin.gif). This is a bedroom AV setup and I like to listen to it at night via the headphones only w/o having any external speakers engaged, and w/o having to get up and plug/unplug the headphones - I'm using a Sennheiser wireless headphone. My bedroom system consists of the Marantz NR1603, a Sony Bravia KDL-HX850, an AT&T U-verse box, and a Sony PS3; I have the Marantz setup as a 5.1 system, so I have the other two channels of its 7.1 capability available for a Zone 2 setup. I've figured out a way to actuate a heaphone connection remotely using Zone 2, analog audio inputs from the U-verse and the PS3, and an attentuator on the speaker outputs for the 6th and 7th channel, but I just recently thought, why not use the TV's headphone/audio out? (it's a 3.5mm stereo phono out). Course, the irony is that my 1603 is a fairly recent purchase and the new NR1604 now has zone 2 pre-outs eek.gif !!!

So I've tried the above method with the TV's headphone connection, but everything I've tried with just about every configuration in the receiver, the Sony, and the U-verse doesn't give me any Sony TV headphone/audio out or TV internal speaker use if I go with an HDMI-only connection from the U-verse through the Marantz to the TV. But if I go with a similar HDMI-only connection directly from the U-verse to the TV, I can get both the TV's headphone/audio out and the TV's internal speakers to work. I know HDMI is a digital-only connection, but I figure there must be an allowance for DA conversion along the way to use a TV's analog speakers and/or headphone output. And I'm pretty sure the same thing works with other receivers I have had. Is there something essentially different with the way the Marantz passes HDMI through and the way the U-verse box passes it directly? I think I'm missing something totally elementary, but I can't figure out what it is. As I've been writing this, this issue now sounds familiar to me with PS3 or TV systems that I was more familiar with several years prior. What have I forgotten or what am I missing/doing wrong? Any direction would be appreciated.

- da Choge
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