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Marantz NR1403 and NR1603 Slim Line Receiver Thread - Page 17

post #481 of 770
With both BDPs, you will want to set the "Deep Color Output" to OFF. If you have the original FAT PS3, no further audio changes are required as the PS3 can only decode the HD audio to PCM first while if you have a slim model, either reset it while connected to the AVR or set the audio to "bitstream" vice "LPCM" and ensure all of the 5.1 HD audio codecs (Dolby TrueHD, DTS MA, DTS MA-HD) are checked.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1465528/the-official-2013-denon-e-series-x-series-avr-model-owners-thread-faq/0_100#user_L26
post #482 of 770
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

With both BDPs, you will want to set the "Deep Color Output" to OFF. If you have the original FAT PS3, no further audio changes are required as the PS3 can only decode the HD audio to PCM first while if you have a slim model, either reset it while connected to the AVR or set the audio to "bitstream" vice "LPCM" and ensure all of the 5.1 HD audio codecs (Dolby TrueHD, DTS MA, DTS MA-HD) are checked.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1465528/the-official-2013-denon-e-series-x-series-avr-model-owners-thread-faq/0_100#user_L26

Brilliant, I now have the correct audio from the PS 3. The blu-ray is still a blank screen even after the setting has been changed. I know I have one on the PS 3, but would like a dedicated blu-ray, so if there is anything else I should look at, please help!
post #483 of 770
Try resetting the BDP, then try connecting the BDP to each of the HDMI inputs on the 1603 to see if one works better than another and if still no joy then try using a different HDMI cable and repeat the process.
post #484 of 770
Hey folks, I'm not sure if I should ask this in the subwoofer forum or not, but I figured asking in the dedicated thread for the 1603 was best. I'm looking to get a subwoofer at some point soon. I already have b+w 684 towers and htm62 center, but I know nothing about subs. What kind of subwoofer can work with the 1603? What kind of qualities should I look for?

My apologies if this has been covered, but I'm a total newbie when it comes to a lot of this stuff.

My concern is I'll blow out the receiver with too much power. I also want good bass but nothing crazy. I also want to honestly keep it as price friendly as possible, as I am getting b+w M-1 for my rears soon.

For what it's worth, my room is about 12x12 and the ceilings are about 9 feet high. Hardwood with a few rugs. I would say my system is 90% music and 10% TV/games.

Thanks for suggestions and any qualities to look for in a subwoofer.
post #485 of 770
A powered sub will work with your Marantz but without a budget nobody can help you.

How much are you willing to spend?

You can't blow out the receiver with a powered sub because the subwoofer has its own amp. In fact, it makes it easier for the receiver to drive your other speakers because the subwoofer handles the lower frequencies.
post #486 of 770
Quote:
Originally Posted by afrogt View Post

A powered sub will work with your Marantz but without a budget nobody can help you.

How much are you willing to spend?

You can't blow out the receiver with a powered sub because the subwoofer has its own amp. In fact, it makes it easier for the receiver to drive your other speakers because the subwoofer handles the lower frequencies.

Thanks very much. I'll be honest, I've seen subs that cost anywhere between 200-1000 dollars. That being said, I have zero idea the difference between them other then what online reviews said. I mean I guess the best answer would be somewhere under $300 if possible. Like I said, the room is small and there's a lot of furniture in it.

My main issue is I live in an apartment where I don't want to annoy neighbors, but I also want to have a solid system. If the $300 number above isn't realistic, then I'm open to spending more (up to $600).

From the research I have done, I was thinking an 8 inch might be good for the room I have, anything else might be overkill for now. Not only that but positioning wise it would be difficult to hook up unless it's pretty small.

Like I've said, I'm new so what I think would be a good idea could be totally off base. Any advice would be appreciated. Again, thanks very much for the help.
post #487 of 770
If you truly only have room for an 8" sub then this is one of the better ones, cost is $299. Dimension are (HxWxD) 14.5" x 10.875" x 14.125 "

http://outlawaudio.com/products/m8.html

but this 12" SVS is probably the best compact sub going and actually takes up less space than the Outlaw sub mentioned first. It is wider but shorter and less deep. Much more powerful. Will cost you $499 though.
http://www.svsound.com/subwoofers/sealed-box/sb-1000#.UdGLafnVB8E

post #488 of 770
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Try resetting the BDP, then try connecting the BDP to each of the HDMI inputs on the 1603 to see if one works better than another and if still no joy then try using a different HDMI cable and repeat the process.
Still no joy. Not sure what else to try, and may just give up, but it's really frustrating me as it isn't the cheapest rubbish blu-ray on the market. frown.gif
post #489 of 770
Now I'm not sure if this is an amp config problem, or speaker issue.

Attached to the 1603 I have a Bose Lifestyle 15 speaker system. Problem is, when watching late at night a lower volumes, the subwoofer of the Bose goes into standby, and I have to turn the amp up to get it to kick in again.

I'm pretty sure this is a speaker config issue, but not sure what. I have changed the LFE setting to LFE + main, but no different.

Any ideas?
post #490 of 770
Did you run Audyssey and ensure the sub setting was between -3db and 0db? If not, suggest you review the Audyssey 101/FAQ Guide linked in my sig.
post #491 of 770
I bought the Polk Audio PSW-505 for 189 delivered and it's 300 watts of bliss. You can buy it now for 230 delivered here.
post #492 of 770
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

1. You might want to try cyclling the HDMI Control setting on the AVR OFF/ON and then cycle the AVR itself OFF/ON as well. Also try powering off and unplugging the AVR for about 10 minutes. And lastly, try uplugging the HDMI cable from the AVR to the TV whiile both are ON, power both OFF for 10 minutes, plug the HDMI cable back in and then power on the TV then the AVR.

2. HDMI-CEC (BraviaSync) must be set to ON, with audio set to "external speakers". On the AVR, HDMI Control must be ON.

Thanks for the response, JD Smoothie you are an incredible help. This seems to have worked as I can now use the Netflix app on the Sony Bravia and listen with the sound coming out of the speakers (and AV receiver), however with the Lovefilm app on the Sony Bravia it doesn't work? It seems bizarre that one would work whilst the other doesn't. Does anyone have any ideas?

Absolutely love the 1603 though!
post #493 of 770
Try setting the Lovefilm app audio to PCM or set Dolby Digital to OFF.
post #494 of 770
Hi Jdsmoothie, have you compared marantz receiver (HDAM technology) with nr series? Is there any difference in sound quality?
post #495 of 770
No, but there would be an improvement at the very least due to the SR series using the more advanced version of Audyssey MultEQ XT vs. just MultEQ on the NR series. Note however, that HDAM is only offered on the 7007 and 7701, 8801 on last year's models while for 2013, HDAM has moved down to the 5008 and 6008.
post #496 of 770
Hi, I just bought a Marantz NR1603, but i've a little problem, my PS3 dosn't work through AVR, the first time I started it up together I got a black screen, not the interface that you get up if you select a source that has nothing connect to it. But after a few reboots, hoping to get the picture and sound to it ****ed up completely and now it dosn't detect the PS3 at all, I only get the Marantzinterface.

Have tried the PS3 in all inputs on the back with the same results.
But now that strange thing, it works just fine if I connect the PS3 through the HDMI-port on the front. Is that one different from the ones in the back?


Anyone have any idea what it could be? And have some tips what you can try to solve the problem I would be very grateful.

Tested also connect my Mac Mini in the different inputs on the back and it worked just fine i all of them ...
post #497 of 770
Due to different signal path lengths, the HDMI inputs are indeed not all created equal, which is why it's important to try every input. Also, ensure the PS3 has the "Deep Color Output" setting to OFF.
post #498 of 770
Need opinions between Denon X1000 ($449) vs Marantz 1504 ($499). I''m leaning toward the Marantz due to size and i've read it sounds warmer then Denon although Denon offers Audyssey MultEQ XT. I want to get the best sound quality possible in a $500 range. I have 2 B&W DM600 S3, Acoustech H-100 sub and need to purchase a center speaker. I will connect a PS3, DVR and soon to be new Panasonic TC-65PS64.

Any thoughts or equipment suggestions on how to make this a nice setup for mostly music, cartoons and occasional movie?
Edited by toast. - 7/12/13 at 1:30am
post #499 of 770
Hi everyone. New here! I am buying Klipsch Gallery G-42 and sub and want to get a marantz slimline receiver. These are available in 1403 or 1603 refurb for 269 or 399. I think the 1403 will be fine, as I have an Apple TV for AirPlay. What do you you all think?

Thanks!
post #500 of 770
Okay, I had to register as this seems to be the best resource regarding these slim amps.

I have a question regarding the pre-amp out for front speakers, and please bear with me - I am an old-school audiophile, but this is my 1st time with AV-receivers.

So I replaced my Teufel Decoderstation 5 DAC with a Marantz NR1403. I made the change to get HDMI connectivity and HD audio format support, mainly the SACD. The receiver is connected to a pair of Genelec 8030 active monitors. The setup was relatively easy, but one thing left me wondering.

Has anyone experienced that the pre-out level would be quite low, or abnormally low?

WIth my old DAC I had the speaker attenuator down to 33% or 50% of the volume range, in order to keep the digital volume range good for listening in my apartment (and minding the neighbours). Now with Marantz, I had to turn the attenuators to 100%/full volume, to get reasonable output levels. Audyssey seems to boost the volume, and seems to have set my FR/FL speakers with +12dB gain.

Now with Audyssey enabled, things seem somewhat ok. In Direct mode the volume is much more quiet and I am not impressed on the sound so far - seems to lack bass and punch.

This was quite surprising to me, and i even have tube-buffer amp in the chain which adds about 2dB gain before the signal reaches the speakers. The Genelecs are usually considered to be pretty damn loud for a non-damped room, thus they have the attenuators. BTW, they are what Steve Jobs used in his system smile.gif

Any other opinions/thoughts/experiences regarding the pre-out quality?
Is the NR1403 volume handled at the digital stage, or is it an analog attenuator?
post #501 of 770
When the AVR sets the speaker level at +12db it means the speakers are not putting out enough volume likely due to the fact that you have the attenuators at 100% so lower them back down to 30% and run Audyssey again adjust the attenuators as necessary until the speaker level reading is between -3db to 0db. You need only run the #1 mic position while adjusting the speaker attenuators and then once in the noted range, run all 6 mic positions. You may also want to review the Audyssey 101/FAQ Guide linked in my sig as it answers the 50 most asked questions in the Official Audyssey thread.

Note also that with DIRECT mode enabled that Audyssey and bass management are both disabled.
post #502 of 770
Quote:
Originally Posted by LuisBoston View Post

Hi everyone. New here! I am buying Klipsch Gallery G-42 and sub and want to get a marantz slimline receiver. These are available in 1403 or 1603 refurb for 269 or 399. I think the 1403 will be fine, as I have an Apple TV for AirPlay. What do you you all think?

Thanks!

Both offer the same power supply and use the same version of Audyssey MultEQ so select the model that offers the features you require.
post #503 of 770
Quote:
Originally Posted by toast. View Post

Need opinions between Denon X1000 ($449) vs Marantz 1504 ($499). I''m leaning toward the Marantz due to size and i've read it sounds warmer then Denon although Denon offers Audyssey MultEQ XT. I want to get the best sound quality possible in a $500 range. I have 2 B&W DM600 S3, Acoustech H-100 sub and need to purchase a center speaker. I will connect a PS3, DVR and soon to be new Panasonic TC-65PS64.

Any thoughts or equipment suggestions on how to make this a nice setup for mostly music, cartoons and occasional movie?

For one thing, you have posted in the 1403/1603 thread and for the second, you asked the same question in each of the correct Owner's models threads 2 weeks ago and got answers. wink.gif
Edited by jdsmoothie - 7/28/13 at 4:44am
post #504 of 770
Sorry, I chose my words badly and my post was confusing.

With my previous pre-amp I used a lot of attenuation at the speakers, so that only 33-50% of output power was utilized.

Now with the Marantz I must have the attenuators disabled/fully open and still it barely provides reasonable volumes, especially in Direct modes.Audyssey had trouble finding the speakers until I turned the attenuator to fully open/no attenuation.

Is this normal/expected - is the pre-amp gain that low?
post #505 of 770
What you experienced with your previous pre-amp is what you should likely expect to experience with the 1403 as well. AFAIK, the pre-amp gain is 1.2v and generally adding an external amp should not be an issue. Have you confirmed the powered speakers themselves are still functioning properly?
post #506 of 770
Well, it was a working system and I just swapped the pre-amp. Unlikely that two independent active speakers would fail at the same time.

I got comment from the previous owner, who also used the unit to drive a Genelec pair, that he used 50% attenuation, so he got sufficient pre-amp gain.

I need to recheck my wiring and that the tube bufffer is okay - I suddlenly have feeling that what if I connected the buffer (I assembled the system in a great hurry) backwards...
post #507 of 770
That's what the last guy said (couldn't be my brand new speakers) only to find he had blown both new speakers. eek.gif
post #508 of 770
hello all. i am super interested in the 1403 for my new HT setup. i have speakers on order and am looking to upgrade my onkyo AVR. i am purchasing b/w 683b towers with the cm center speaker. i am a complete noob and had a few ?s.

1) this AVR has 2 ch driven power settings, is it more desirable to have all channels driven? does it cost an arm/leg to have this?
2) comparing this to some of the yamahas, its power output is only 50w versus 80w in the yamaha at a similar THD. will this mean that i wont get as much juice to my speakers and have to pump the volume up a lot?

thanks in advance for the help. i love the way this avr looks. i am looking in the 400-500 range, but dont need the networking features. just something to give me awesome sound/video for sports/movies.
post #509 of 770
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

What you experienced with your previous pre-amp is what you should likely expect to experience with the 1403 as well. AFAIK, the pre-amp gain is 1.2v and generally adding an external amp should not be an issue. Have you confirmed the powered speakers themselves are still functioning properly?

Yup. So it turned out that I had the wiring screwed up - I installed the set in a great hurry, as I was going on vacation trip. It turns out that tube-buffer (Yaqin) can actually run backwards, but it attenuates the signal significantly. Who would have thought rolleyes.gif. Everything good, the pre-out gain is OK and the Genelecs sing. I have no reference to compare to, but the quality from the pre-outs seems to be quite OK. Actually it turns out that local hifi retailers have actually sold this pre-amp as a package with the G's.

I can recommend the NR1403 for 2-channel active speaker purposes. Easy to set up, Audysset brings all kinds of possibilities and it decodes a variety of formats nicely (such as SACD).

Now that I have an AV-amp, I cant stop thinking about extending to a 4.0 system by adding some ultra compact rear speakers...
post #510 of 770
Lohajat, I have the 1403 also and was concerned a bit about the power too. But I hooked it up and gave it a spin. It sounded great but I did in fact have to crank it up past half-way. Solution? It has preamp out for the towers. I had my Kenwood L09Ms hooked up and problem solved but overkill. So I went onto ebay and scored a nice pair of Kenwood L07Ms. Perfect.
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