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Marantz NR1403 and NR1603 Slim Line Receiver Thread - Page 18

post #511 of 774
^^
Note that with every AVR using Audyssey where reference volume is set to 80, the average master volume level for most owners will be 50-70 so even normal TV listening is likely to be above "half-way".
post #512 of 774
I am trying to find my best low cost option.

I am considering the 1603/1604 because they have L/R pre-outs. The parasound amp that I purchased with my Thiel 1.5CS speakers is being under utilized. The Thiel's are 4 Ohm and 86db sensitive. So, not absolute bears to drive, but they can utilize more power. I am currently using a 100 Watt/channel Onkyo 616 to drive them. But, I think they would sound better, if I could utilize the Parasound to drive them. I am currently using an NHT Super One for a center. I am considering moving up to Salk Song Tower Center. It is a little easier to drive… about 88db at 5 or 6 ohms.

How well do you think the 1504 or 1603 or 1604 would drive the center with that type of sensitivity? Not a big room (18 x 14)

Thanks for any feedback you can get me.

David
post #513 of 774
All of the Marantz models you list use the more advanced Audyssey MultEQ which has 2x the speaker filter resolution than does the 2EQ on the 616, not to mention MultEQ can EQ a subwoofer whereas 2EQ cannot. With the AVR only driving the center speaker you should be fine. smile.gif
post #514 of 774
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

All of the Marantz models you list use the more advanced Audyssey MultEQ which has 2x the speaker filter resolution than does the 2EQ on the 616, not to mention MultEQ can EQ a subwoofer whereas 2EQ cannot. With the AVR only driving the center speaker you should be fine. smile.gif
Thanks, I hadn't noticed the Audyssey difference. I haven't read all of this thread. But people seem to be surprised how well these receivers do. I do mostly 2 channel listening, but I like to run movies fairly loud. So you think that since I am taking much of the load off the receiver power supply. It should do fine?
post #515 of 774
Without the ext amp, I'd say no, but shouldn't be a problem with the amp. smile.gif
post #516 of 774
I have a quick question regarding bi-amping a 1603. I have B+W 684 towers, and I'm thinking of bi-amping them. Would it be worth it?

It appears to be a pretty simple thing to do, but before I did it, I wanted to know if I'm going to put too much strain on the 1603.

Thanks.
post #517 of 774
Nope. Not worth it. If you want more power, add an external amp (eg. Emotiva XPA-2).
post #518 of 774
Did anyone get the new September 2013 firmware update for the NR 1603 yet ? I can't seem to find any changelog or release notes anywhere on Marantz's website ...
post #519 of 774
D&M currently does not post the firmware change log update information on the website, however, I will try to obtain and post here when I can.
post #520 of 774
Quote:
Originally Posted by harshw View Post

Did anyone get the new September 2013 firmware update for the NR 1603 yet ? I can't seem to find any changelog or release notes anywhere on Marantz's website ...
I updated but no idea what's the change. Did so because I just got the NR1603 even with the NR1604 out. Loving it. Though set up not so straight forward. The pass thru ARC issue is a major pain. I direct wire now.
post #521 of 774
I'm not sure if its been covered but I have an issue with my newly aquired NR1603... I have a samsung cable box hooked up to the TV input and outputting to my Samsung UND558000 (essentially passing through) everything works fine when everything is on but I am unable to watch the TV by itself. when I turn on the TV it stays on for about 5 seconds and then it shuts off, I am then forced to power on the AVR to continue watching. Believe it or not as simple as this step is, it does not meet WAF in my house frown.gif

Can I get some clarity as to how I might solve for this?

TIA!
post #522 of 774
I've upgraded to the September 2013 firmware, and now the amp no longer shows up on Airplay devices. Anyone else having the same problem?
post #523 of 774
^^
Try unplugging the AVR for about 10 minutes.
post #524 of 774
Quote:
Originally Posted by theDeviL View Post

I'm not sure if its been covered but I have an issue with my newly aquired NR1603... I have a samsung cable box hooked up to the TV input and outputting to my Samsung UND558000 (essentially passing through) everything works fine when everything is on but I am unable to watch the TV by itself. when I turn on the TV it stays on for about 5 seconds and then it shuts off, I am then forced to power on the AVR to continue watching. Believe it or not as simple as this step is, it does not meet WAF in my house frown.gif

Can I get some clarity as to how I might solve for this?

TIA!

What is the source? The TV or the cable box? If the cable box, you can use the HDMI Standby Pass Through feature to pass the cable box to the TV when the AVR is in Standby, however, unlike the new 2013 models, this feature does not work "out-of-the-box", rather you must set HDMI Control (p. 109 OM) on the AVR to ON (as the factory default is OFF) and change the Standby Source (p. 110 OM - see below) from the default of "Last" to the input source the cable box is assigned to (or plugged in to if just using the default input name, eg. "CBL/SAT").

post #525 of 774
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

What is the source? The TV or the cable box? If the cable box, you can use the HDMI Standby Pass Through feature to pass the cable box to the TV when the AVR is in Standby, however, unlike the new 2013 models, this feature does not work "out-of-the-box", rather you must set HDMI Control (p. 109 OM) on the AVR to ON (as the factory default is OFF) and change the Standby Source (p. 110 OM - see below) from the default of "Last" to the input source the cable box is assigned to (or plugged in to if just using the default input name, eg. "CBL/SAT").


its a samsung cablebox with Optimum as a provider... all the settings you've outlined are already setup as such (see below) my CBL/SAT input is renamed to TV

SA Cablebox > NR1603 (via HDMI input 1) > out to SA UN55D8000 TV (to HDMI input 1)





sorry for the poor quality photos!
post #526 of 774
If the source is the cable box and not the TV .. then the Standby Source needs to be CBL/SAT.
post #527 of 774
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

If the source is the cable box and not the TV .. then the Standby Source needs to be CBL/SAT.

that's what I meant, the source is set to CBL/SAT I just renamed mine to "TV" thats why I posted them. thanks for your help BTW! much appreciated
post #528 of 774
Changing the CBL/SAT source name to "TV" only gives it a different name for your own benefit. As far as the AVR is concerned, it's always going to be CBL/SAT and that is what needs to be selected for the Standby Source and not TV.
post #529 of 774
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Changing the CBL/SAT source name to "TV" only gives it a different name for your own benefit. As far as the AVR is concerned, it's always going to be CBL/SAT and that is what needs to be selected for the Standby Source and not TV.

well that's how it is now and how it's always been and it still not staying on... (standby Source is set to CBL/SAT) so there must be something else because it seems to work for a few seconds when the TV turns on but then if just goes off. frown.gif
post #530 of 774
^^
With Samsung TVs you have a choice of using "either" the HDMI(ARC) feature or HDMI Standby Pass Through, but not both. Decide which you prefer more for in order for the Standby Pass Through to work, you will have to disable Anynet+ on the TV and set the TV audio back to "TV".

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1465528/the-official-2013-denon-e-series-x-series-avr-model-owners-thread-faq/0_100#user_E4
post #531 of 774
This can only play CD in stereo without any DSP? All speakers stereo possible? It was possible on my Yamaha.
post #532 of 774
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bieffe View Post

This can only play CD in stereo without any DSP? All speakers stereo possible? It was possible on my Yamaha.
"Direct" disables the DSP. "Multi Ch Stereo" uses all pairs of speakers.
post #533 of 774
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bieffe View Post

This can only play CD in stereo without any DSP? All speakers stereo possible? It was possible on my Yamaha.

As long as you don't use either DIRECT or PURE DIRECT, you can engage one of the DSP modes.
post #534 of 774
Quote:
Originally Posted by theDeviL View Post

I'm not sure if its been covered but I have an issue with my newly aquired NR1603... I have a samsung cable box hooked up to the TV input and outputting to my Samsung UND558000 (essentially passing through) everything works fine when everything is on but I am unable to watch the TV by itself. when I turn on the TV it stays on for about 5 seconds and then it shuts off, I am then forced to power on the AVR to continue watching. Believe it or not as simple as this step is, it does not meet WAF in my house frown.gif

Can I get some clarity as to how I might solve for this?

TIA!

I had the same problem. I have a Marantz NR1603 and a Samsung ES7100. I got it to work by doing this:

Use the "Tools" on your Samsung Remote. Go to the AnyNet HDMI+CEC menu, refresh the Device List then turn the Receiver to OFF ( the second pic ). See if that helps. I know it is supposed to turn ARC off but I do get Dolby & PCM out to the AVR from Smart TV apps. The only problem is that every time I turn the AVR on it switches to TV Audio and that totally blows the WAF smile.gif




post #535 of 774
Now I got it. Press and hold the sound type buttons right at the bottom of the remote.
If I off auddessey does all setting jump back to default? I just want to increase volume of the center the rest of the settings are great.
post #536 of 774
If you want to increase the volume of the center channel (aka Dialog Level), just do so. That does not disable Audyssey. It's described on page 60 of the 1403 manual and page 104 of the 1603 manual.
post #537 of 774
Quote:
Originally Posted by harshw View Post

I had the same problem. I have a Marantz NR1603 and a Samsung ES7100. I got it to work by doing this:

Use the "Tools" on your Samsung Remote. Go to the AnyNet HDMI+CEC menu, refresh the Device List then turn the Receiver to OFF ( the second pic ). See if that helps. I know it is supposed to turn ARC off but I do get Dolby & PCM out to the AVR from Smart TV apps. The only problem is that every time I turn the AVR on it switches to TV Audio and that totally blows the WAF smile.gif


The work around for this is to disable Anynet+ and instead connect an optical cable from the TV to the AVR.
post #538 of 774
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bieffe View Post

Now I got it. Press and hold the sound type buttons right at the bottom of the remote.
If I off auddessey does all setting jump back to default? I just want to increase volume of the center the rest of the settings are great.

In addition to simply boosting the volume of the center channel as Selden suggested, you can also ...

1. Ensure the center channel is pulled out from the cabinet a few inches and aimed up towards the main listening position (ear height), although if you do relocate it, run Audyssey again.

2. If this issue presents more so with your cable/sat box viewing, then set the Reference Level Offset to 10db which will reduce the bass boost and increase your center channel quality.
post #539 of 774
Quote:
Originally Posted by Selden Ball View Post

If you want to increase the volume of the center channel (aka Dialog Level), just do so. That does not disable Audyssey. It's described on page 60 of the 1403 manual and page 104 of the 1603 manual.
As per the manual. Some of these options are grayed out. Like D-Max etc. The only way I can increase center volume to go to test tone..play it and increase from there. The options like dialogue all greyed out. Why are they all grayed out. Thanks for all the advice so far!
post #540 of 774
^^
Greyed out options mean they do not apply to the surround mode you currently have selected. Select a surround mode that uses the center channel.
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