Hi this is my first post here, so I hope I posted this in the right section; mods can move it if need. Anyways I bought an Silicon Optix Image Anyplace off of ebay and so far its a really great processor, but their is one small problem with it and hopefully someone knowledgeable about it or has owned one can help me. The problem only occurs when I play vintage games anything Dreamcast or older that is rendered in 240p resolution; every time I try to play one of those games the screen starts to move, the picture will go vertically down the screen and then reappear on the top and repeat almost like it were on a conveyer belt or something. Has anyone ever encountered this problem before or know of it. The reason I bought it is because I looked at Fudoh's review of it and it had great deinterlacing capabilities and I wanted it for my PS1 and virtual console games on the WII. If it helps any I set it to 480p mode so it only line-doubles the image, and I have tried to make it do upscaling to higher resolutions but the problem still persists; also I have it connected to a Geffen vga-dvi scaler plus and I tried to take that out of my video chain, but it still had the same problem even connected directly to my television. Thanks for any help.
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Silicon Optix Image Anyplace Help!!!
post #2 of 15
5/5/12 at 3:34am
- Fudoh
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- RetroFan786
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actually, I'm using the composite input #2 if that helps, but it does it on composite 1 too, but its outputting to vga, then it goes to the slg-3000, and then to the Geffen vga-dvi scaler, and then to my television, so the only rgb signal its getting is when it outputs vga all the till the Geffen scaler gets it then it converts it back to ypbpr? "I'm assuming, need clarification on that," to output to my t.v.
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5/5/12 at 12:28pm
- Fudoh
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Does the same happen when you use a 480i game ? The majority of software titles on the DC are rendered in 480i when using a composite connection.
You could try feeding the composite output of your system to the "Y" input of the component SD input. I can't remember trying the composite inputs, so I can only confirm the 240p-capability on the component inputs.
You could try feeding the composite output of your system to the "Y" input of the component SD input. I can't remember trying the composite inputs, so I can only confirm the 240p-capability on the component inputs.
- RetroFan786
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no 480i games work just fine; in fact what's really odd is if I play Dino Crisis on my ps1, it will start conveyer-belting, but when I go into the inventory screen it will stop, because it is in 480i, and then when I go back to the game, the screen will jump because of the resolution change back to 240p, and will stop moving and I'm able to play it, so far that's the only game I can play. I also have a ps3 that I play the games through, and they play fine thanks to the ps3's up scaling but then I loose some image quality so I prefer to play the games on my actual ps1.
edit: I tried connecting it through the y component jack and it still did the conveyer belt movement; also is it weird if in some games the picture moves faster than in others, because if I play Tony Hawk's Pro Skater the screen moves really slow and is almost playable, but every other game I've tried it moves too fast to even try to play.
edit2: so after almost a week, no one has any suggestions, or is it just a defect in the processor itself?
edit: I tried connecting it through the y component jack and it still did the conveyer belt movement; also is it weird if in some games the picture moves faster than in others, because if I play Tony Hawk's Pro Skater the screen moves really slow and is almost playable, but every other game I've tried it moves too fast to even try to play.
edit2: so after almost a week, no one has any suggestions, or is it just a defect in the processor itself?
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Hey Fudoh!
I just thought of something that might help stabilize my picture coming from my image anyplace and maybe give me a just as good, maybe even better picture than trying the 540p trick from the vp30 that you suggested. Would it be possible to run my ps1 to the image anyplace via composite video, next to the slg300, then to the Kramer FC-14 RGBHV to YUV converter, last to my TV. Would that set-up work? Would the Kramer be able to handle converting the H/V syncs from the image anyplace properly to YUV and or Y/PB/PR? I just bought a cheap vga to component converter, but now the whole picture is going crazy, even worse than when I was passing it through to the geffen vga to dvi scaler plus. I had a hunch that the reason for my picture looping through the screen in a vertical fashion was because my TV wasn't compatible with the H/V syncs it was getting through the image anyplace and the geffen, even through my dvi to hdmi cable. Could that be the reason or is something else causing it? A defect maybe? Hopefully not cause other than this little problem this image anyplace is still a very handy machine.
I just thought of something that might help stabilize my picture coming from my image anyplace and maybe give me a just as good, maybe even better picture than trying the 540p trick from the vp30 that you suggested. Would it be possible to run my ps1 to the image anyplace via composite video, next to the slg300, then to the Kramer FC-14 RGBHV to YUV converter, last to my TV. Would that set-up work? Would the Kramer be able to handle converting the H/V syncs from the image anyplace properly to YUV and or Y/PB/PR? I just bought a cheap vga to component converter, but now the whole picture is going crazy, even worse than when I was passing it through to the geffen vga to dvi scaler plus. I had a hunch that the reason for my picture looping through the screen in a vertical fashion was because my TV wasn't compatible with the H/V syncs it was getting through the image anyplace and the geffen, even through my dvi to hdmi cable. Could that be the reason or is something else causing it? A defect maybe? Hopefully not cause other than this little problem this image anyplace is still a very handy machine.
post #7 of 15
10/5/12 at 2:45am
- Fudoh
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Did you buy an actual VGA to component converter or a pure transcoder ? A converter would change the timings of the signal, while a transcoder does not. I have the FC-14 and it works fine, but of course you have to feed the the proper timings. The FC-14 is a pure transcoder and when I feed it 480p from a RGBHV source ( Dreamcast for example) it outputs analogue component just fine.
If your SOIA displays the same rolling picture through both the VGA and the DVI output, then it's most certainly not your TV. I mean, just try it on another display or or pc monitor just to be sure.
If your SOIA displays the same rolling picture through both the VGA and the DVI output, then it's most certainly not your TV. I mean, just try it on another display or or pc monitor just to be sure.
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Quote:
If your SOIA displays the same rolling picture through both the VGA and the DVI output, then it's most certainly not your TV.
Well, actually the only way I have tried it through dvi is when I had it connected to my geffen vga to dvi scaler, so I can't confirm if its happening through the dvi port just yet.
Quote:
Did you buy an actual VGA to component converter or a pure transcoder ? A converter would change the timings of the signal, while a transcoder does not. I have the FC-14 and it works fine, but of course you have to feed the the proper timings.
As far as I know this device is suppose to convert rgbhv into component from a vga source, but apparently it must only be a transcoder because it seems to be only converting the rgb signals, not the h/v signals.
Ya so fare it's done it on both a lcd and my current crt.
Edit: Ok I've had some time to mess with this vga to component converter. It turns out that the resolution was set to 720p for some odd reason; which is really weird considering most devices brand new usually default to 480p. Anyways their is slight improvement to the picture, it is not looping quiet as fast as when connected to the geffen unit. I still get the same oddity though when I play Dino Crisis and go into the inventory screen and then exit it it makes the picture stable.
Anyone know why or how that is?
I know my image anyplace has no problem displaying 480i and higher, just 240p signals give it the trouble.
So am I still right to think it's the H/V sync signals that aren't getting converted properly?
Edited by RetroFan786 - 10/8/12 at 9:43am
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Sorry for all the questions, but I really want to get this set-up to work the way it's suppose to. I was looking at the status screen on the image anyplace when playing my ps1 and it said that the H/V sync polarities were both negative, my question is what would happen if I got a converter that could change those polarities? Can the Kramer FC-14 do that? What are the polarities for anyways? And if anyone knows this. What is the type of signal the image anyplace outputs through its vga port? Is it really RGBHV or something else all together, and would purchasing the Kramer FC-14 help solve my problem?
post #10 of 15
10/9/12 at 8:40am
- Fudoh
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I am quite sure that the rolling is caused on the input side of your processor. I had tested the SOIA with various 240p sources and did never experience the problems you had.
Most modern displays or monitors don't care about the output sync polarities. Doesn't the SOIA even allow to change those on the fly ? Certain output resolutions are defined with certain sync poloarity combinations in the VESA specs. You can change around the resolution (e.g. VGA - SVGA - XGA) and you'll see that they'll show with different polarities.
The Kramer FC-14 won't care about the sync polarity.
The SOIA outputs RGBHV through it's HD15 connector.
I don't think that anything will solve your problem with rolling 240p sources. I suspect it's your machine.
Most modern displays or monitors don't care about the output sync polarities. Doesn't the SOIA even allow to change those on the fly ? Certain output resolutions are defined with certain sync poloarity combinations in the VESA specs. You can change around the resolution (e.g. VGA - SVGA - XGA) and you'll see that they'll show with different polarities.
The Kramer FC-14 won't care about the sync polarity.
The SOIA outputs RGBHV through it's HD15 connector.
I don't think that anything will solve your problem with rolling 240p sources. I suspect it's your machine.
- RetroFan786
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That's what I was afraid you would say.
Guess maybe I could sell it on ebay and get some extra money to put towards the xrgb framemeister...or xrgb-3. What would be better for my TV? I know that the xrgb-3 has vga out so I can retain that analog signal after its been digitally framedoubled instead of taking that step with my TV with the framemeister, then all my TV would have to do is display the image with no processing.

Guess maybe I could sell it on ebay and get some extra money to put towards the xrgb framemeister...or xrgb-3. What would be better for my TV? I know that the xrgb-3 has vga out so I can retain that analog signal after its been digitally framedoubled instead of taking that step with my TV with the framemeister, then all my TV would have to do is display the image with no processing.
post #12 of 15
10/9/12 at 2:36pm
- Fudoh
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If you want to fully test it, see that you test 240p using the component inputs before giving the SOIA away. As mentioned earlier, all 240p sources I tried while I had the SOIA on hand were connected to the component input. If you have a PS2 (or can borrow one) you can test this without additional converter hardware.
Price is the only reason for a XRGB-3 nowadays. Everything else speaks for the Mini.
Price is the only reason for a XRGB-3 nowadays. Everything else speaks for the Mini.
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post #14 of 15
10/9/12 at 7:35pm
- Fudoh
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post #15 of 15
10/23/12 at 4:28pm
- Fudoh
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Just bumping this because over on the shmups board some screenshots of a SEGA SATURN running on a SOIA unit have been posted.
http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?p=845162#p845162
http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?p=845162#p845162
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