JVC X30 with 2.35:1 Screen

I reviewed it (link to website in signature) with my 122", 2.40 screen, though it is 1.3 gain instead of 1.0. Lens memory works well, though it isn't really fast, but it works very well overall. While in low lamp mode with the iris wide open I got 23 ftL of light with a 16:9 image, once that was blown up to fill the whole 2.40:1 screen that light level dropped down to 14-15 ftL, and that's with a brand new bulb. With 1.0 gain you'd be starting at 10-11 ftL of light for 2.35 content and falling after that unless you run in high lamp mode.

If that's fine then you should go for it, but with a screen that size I'd likely recommend a gain of 1.3-1.5 or so, just to avoid buying new bulbs continually, or shrinking it down to something smaller so you can stay in low lamp mode for longer.

i have a monoprice 130" diagonal 2.35 screen (1.0). its perfect (at least brightness, etc.). i came from a stewart. thought i'd take the gamble on a $350 screen and it paid off.

but...the image is great on that size. the only issue is that the lens memory slightly forgets when you go back to 16.9 (aka the image goes down one click). but...it works (especially for the ohh ahh going from 16.9 to 2.35). nothing else is like it.

I have a 138" diagonal 2:35 screen with a gain of 1.1 and find it plenty bright on low lamp mode. Some people prefer a very bright image, but even with the lamp on low, I find it every bit as bright as the commercial theater.

I dont exactly fit your criteria, but I am using a 9' wide 2.35 2.8HP screen where I am getting ~2.1 or so real world gain at my normal center seat with my RS45 mounted 17.5' away. When zoomed out to 9' wide and at ~500 hours on the bulb, I find the image is still plenty bright in low lamp even with my iris at -9.

The lens memory helps out vs doing it manually each time, but it is a bit slow and hardly ever exactly precise. I would say at minimum, 9 times out of 10 I have to manually make small adjustments once the lens memory does its thing. The good news is you only have to adjust the lens shift as zoom and focus always seem to be dead on. Not a huge deal, but it would be nice if the models hitting later this year refined this even more and made it totally accurate.

The side bars for 1.78/85 are not noticeable at all (in my room at least) unless you actually sit there and look for them. Since these are not projected light, I think a big part of how noticeable these are or not depends on how good your room is at killing the reflected light off the screen. If the light coming off your screen gets reflected back to the screen, you will notice them more so proper room treatment will go a long way in keeping these unnoticed from my experience. I have never felt the need for any masking with the side bars like I did with top/bottom bars on my old 1.78 screen with 2.35 movies.

my wall is 14' wide. my projector is about 14.5 back from the screen. my screen is 130" diagonal.

#1.) speakers are not blocking screen;

#2.) zoom is no problem;

#3.) do not notice black bars;


#4.) buy it as very few people have this effect (2.35 image) on a screen! believe it or not the movie wild hogs (2.35) is an awesome show off. of course pirates is good as well. my seating is about 10-feet and we love it.

I would also use Coderguy's screen size calculator for this, since it gives some pretty accurate results for what you are after. The recommendation for brightness is usually 14-16ftL, but I've watched plenty of screens that are at 7-8 ftL and have been fine with that. The concern is if you start at 10 ftL or so, you can only drop so far before it starts to get too dim. If you start at 15 ftL you can get to half brightness and probably still find it OK. What people find to be too dim is all personal preference, I can only offer up the numbers and what I found with it.

Adjusting from Lens Memory is usually only 1-2 clicks I found, and while slow, it was a bit more accurate than on the Sony 95ES. I do wish it had 5 positions instead of 3, but it works OK, and is much cheaper than an anamorphic lens.

mark, did you and others buy your projector via this forum? If so, did you go with an extended warranty? If so, who did you get your Ex. warranty from?

I'm asking because I've heard the name Mack Camera as a warranty but I'm not real familiar with them or where to get the warranty from. Thanks in advance.

I came across this thread last night and I think you guys could help me out.

I recently purchased an JVC X30 and now want to go to a 2.35:1 138" screen if I can. My main use will be BD movies and I would like a electric drop down screen. I will be sitting in the front row ~12' away

1. Will the 2.35:1 138" Elite CineTension 2 work with this layout? I beleive the screen gain is 1.1
2. Does the X30 do the 2.35:1 without an extra anamorphic lens?
3. Do I mount the PJ's lens at the top of the screen?
4. Should I move the PJ closer to the screen?

Thanks for any help, Eric.

We're setting up a new media room. I'm coming from a 16x9 110 inch High Power (2.8) electric (Da-Lite Cosmopolitan Electrol) and a good DLP (Benq PE8720). Super sharp/bright picture. The new room is too small for this set up as we'll need to sit about 10 feet away and need to go to 1080P. The new room is about the same size as mentioned here.

By coincidence, I'm thinking of going to a 2.35 electric High Power and a B-stock or refurb JVC X30. This thread is answering a number of questions. I have a few more:

I'll be shooting from a ceiling mount at 16 feet throw. My wall is 14' wide. My screen should be about 130" Does Da-Lite make an electric drop screen in High Power with a 2.35 AR?

I watch a lot of high def sports (like tonight's World Series). The powered lens memory is important to me. I thought that it was "right on" with one button. How long does it take to shift from 2.35 to 16x9, and tweak it to fit and focus? Has anyone here with a JVC experimented with a Lumagen (or similar) to change Aspect ratios without black bars and completely fill a 2.35 screen?

Thanks