The **OFFICIAL** Denon AVR-XX13 Model Owner's Thread & FAQ - Page 102

SDG,

I had the same question about the audio delay a few pages ago. I can only adjust it in one direction on my 2113. I was instructed to use an optical cable from the cable box to the Denon. I did make that change today and I am currently evaluating the effectiveness of this solution. I only had the problem intermittently.

Just fyi they also thought this would help my hdmi handshake issues since I thought at that time I did not have them with my PS3 but later discovered they were present with my PS3 as well.

Signal strengh issues over long run from a AVR-1513

From a 1513, I have a 50' HDMI run from family room to a kitchen TV. I assume I am experiencing a low signal strength or voltage strength to the TV because it won't display a picture when I add the AVR-1513 to the other devices (Monoprice matrix switch and Gefen Detective Plus). I'm not surprised at all by the issue because of everything in the chain but I'm not sure which product to buy to solve it.

I've seen two products mentioned. In July, jdsmoothie recommended the CablesToGo RapidRun HDMI Voltage Inserter. On the monoprice site, the HDMI Active Equalizer Extender Repeater is recommended.

These products appear to do different things with one supplying voltage itself and the other cleans up digital errors in the source. I see no picture at all once I add the AVR-1513 to the chain. I'm sure nothing is wrong with the 1513, I just pushed the signal past a limit.

Any ideas which product I would need (or is it both)? I'm using good cables from Monoprice. Short 24AWG CL2 High Speed HDMI cables are used near the AVR and the long run uses a 50 ft. Slim Series High Speed HDMI Cable w/ RedMere.

HDMI chain: [FIOS HDSTB | Oppo 981HD] -> Monoprice 4x2 Matrix HDMI Switch -> AVR-1513 -> Gefen Detective Plus -> Samsung 26" LED.

product links I'm considering:

Voltage inserter: http://www.cablestogo.com/product.asp?cat_id=4120&sku=42223
Extender / Repeater: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041914&p_id=2849&seq=1&format=6#faq


HDMI EDID: http://www.gefen.com/kvm/dproduct.jsp?prod_id=8005

Matrix switch: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041914&p_id=2849&seq=1&format=6#faq

My cables:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025501&p_id=9172&seq=1&format=2
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024004&p_id=3991&seq=1&format=2

Thanks in advance.

I'll be testing tomorrow - will try the optical cable ... The problem exists both the cable (uVerse) box and the BR deck. Will check all the components tomorrow, and what happens if I connect the units directly to the TV.

@dryslick -

Either product would likely work just as well; however, using a Redmere cable up to 65' in length should not require any additional signal strengthening device. I'd give Monoprice a call and discuss your issue as if you're going to buy an HDMI repiearter, I'd condsider returning the Redmere for a regular High Speed 50' cable using the difference to pay for the repeater.

Thanks for the quick reply and confirmation either should work. I'll probably chat with Monoprice today. I didn't know if the different products solved different problems.

Regarding the reason for my issue, I know I have several items in the HDMI chain and I think the monoprice switch sends a weakened signal to the "B" display when different sources are used for the two TVs. The signal might be pretty weak before it gets to the Redmere cable. When I first added the HDMI switch a couple of weeks ago, I had the long run to the kitchen TV on the B switch output. The FIOS STB signal could make it to the kitchen TV but the DVD player's signal could not. After swapping output order on the switch, both could make it OK. That said, I also suspect the old DVD player sends a weaker signal than the new STB. Now with the receiver added in, I'm back to having no picture.

Thanks again for your advice. I'll most likely just add one of those products to the existing Redmere. I'd rather not remove the Redmere and re-run a different cable through the basement again.
Edited by dryslick - 11/11/12 at 3:40am

Is this also true of DTS Neo 6?

I've been using it recently for some on-line 2-channel music content and it sounds quite odd as compared to real multi-channel music content.

Thinking to get 2113, is such configuration supported?

1) 5.1 home theater in family room
2) 2.0 stereo in living room
3) when play movie in 1), 2) can be inactive or play music?
4) when play music in 1), 2) can play the same source?
5) when play music in 2), 1) can be inactive ?

Thanks in advance.

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk 2

1. Yes.
2. Yes (Zone 2), although note only analog external sources and the on board sources (FM, internet radio, Pandora, Spotify, Airplay) can pass to Zone 2, so in addition to an HDMI cable, also connect an analog R/W cable from the source to the AVR.
3. Yes (see item #2).
4. Yes (see item #2).
5. Yes, although with Airplay source, you must have both main and Zone 2 on, select Airplay to both main and Zone 2, and once playing in Zone 2 you can deselect it in the main zone or simply mute the main zone.

I was playing with all the sound modes yesterday on my 3313 and thought the Pro Logic II was much better than the DTS Neo6. I kind of liked the Jazz Club too. The Rock Arena was interesting in that it really felt like ithat type of venue, a lot of echoing, etc. While fun, I can't see using the Rock Arena mode. Maybe if you are a big KISS fan or something,LOL!

Maybe somebody knows this issue... PS3 connected by HDMI to the 3313 the 3313 does not recognize the PS3, no video, no audio. If I connect the PS3 right to the Monitor it works, and all other sources work on the 3313, changing cables did not make a difference. I checked the FAQ and followed the instructions but still nothing from the PS3. On my older 3808 I had no problems at all. Any idea why the 3313 won't see the PS3?

Thanks for the help!

Did you try connectnig to every HDMI input on the AVR? What about setting the "Deep Color Output" to OFF?

Yeah tried all the inputs, different cables and numerous settings, including a reset on the PS3 and still doesn't work. If I connect right to the projector no problem and all my other hdmi devices are working on the 3313 as well. Also it works on my older 3808 so it doesn't seem like any thing is wrong with the ps3 or the 3313 just a setting of some kind. Thanks for the help.

What is the cable length from the 3313CI to the PJ? Is the PJ 720p or 1080i/p? If the latter, try setting the AVR to 720p. If it works then you'll need to add an HDMI repeater to strengthen the signal.

Well, I backed up and did another full round of cable troubleshooting and it turns out I have 2 HDMI cables out of many that won't work in very specific devices. Eventually I was able to work out what was going on, pretty frustrating but solved! Thanks for the time trying to help me out.

I suspect my issue is a bad connection btwn my AVR and TV just as suggested. The cable has been switched out and the connections are secure. The problem is still there. Does anyone have suggestions about how I should procede?

Breaking up an earlier, longer post ... I have a Denon 1713.

Dynamic Comp. vs Dynamic Volume (in Audyssey menu). These seem to do the same thing, and Dynamic Comp is the more confusing, the manual says:
- Dynamic Comp is turned on and off by Loudness Mngmt, which says it only applies to Dolby TrueHD.
- In Dynamic Comp it says the "Auto" setting only applies to Dolby TrueHD.

Questions ...
- Does Dynamic Comp only apply to Dolby TrueHD, or, do the "Low / Medium / High" settings apply to all audio sources while the "Auto" setting only applies to Dolby TrueHD?
- Is it a bad idea to have both Dynamic Comp. and Dynamic Volume (Audyssey menu) turned on? If I'm using Audyssey should I just use Dynamic Volume and turn off Dynamic Comp/Loudness Mngmt?

Much thanks for any feedback.

Icy,

What kind of content are you trying to play on your computer when outputting to the AVR? Are you playing a game? I found out last year when I purchased a 5.1 headset with optical input that not all audio cards can output game audio in 5.1 via the optical output. When the game engine generates the audio, it does it in PCM format, and the optical output only has the bandwidth for 2 channel PCM.

You have to have an audio card that support Dolby Digital Live, which encodes the full PCM game audio into a Dolby Digital AC3 signal which then gets sent out of the optical out.

You can test this if you have a video file with AC3 audio. Play the video file, and see if the receiver shows a Dolby Digital source. That will prove that the computer can output in 5.1. If that works, look for a setting in your audio driver called Dolby Digital Live. Although its not likely if you have a cheap audio card or an integrated one.

Let us know if you have any luck!
Alex

Hoping to find time and go back through this thread for more info, but I had a quick question I was looking for help on. I just finished my basement and picked up a 3313. I have a Samsung 60" Plasma in my basement family room, and will have a 1080p projector in the dedicated theater (also in the basement.) I loved the 3313 as I could have 1 set of sources for the basement and 2 discrete displays. In my layout, the equipment is in neither space and is not visible at all from the theater. I am using a pair of Harmony 900's to control everything. In light of this, I want to have a second display for the theater connected at the equipment rack. I have an old 19" 720p TV that would fit perfectly in my rack right above the 3313. My question is, will this cause trouble with my output to the theater? Can I have 1080p going to the theater and 720p on this TV on monitor 1 and 2, respectively? Or will it automatically take both down to 720p? And like other posts that brought me here, would this also drag my Apple TV output down to 720p for all 3 of my displays? Am I best to find a 1080p display to use for this remote monitor?

Thanks for any help!

As is the case when using any HDMI splitter, both outputs are reduced to the lowest common denominator, so 720p. So yes, best to find a small 1080p display for your remote monitor.

I just found your post in another thread which told me the same. Looks tough to find a display under 20" wide that is 1080p! Thanks for the input.

@randy...

do you need the "little display" to be always active? or just while you are playing around in the equipment rack?

if it's the latter, simply unplug the hdmi cable from it when not in use...

Great thread here. I was hoping to get a little guidance if some of you wouldn't mind? I've been asked to help some neighborhood friends build out a whole house audio system. They have added a second story to their house and have expressed a desire to have the place wired for sound. Here's what they are looking for:

First floor
-Great Room with 5.1/7.1 surround sound
-stereo sound in kitchen
-stereo sound in dining room
-stereo sound in outdoor covered patio area

Second floor
-living area with 7.1 surround sound (room size approx. 16x20 with 12ft vaulted ceiling)
-stereo sound in master bedroom
-stereo sound in master bath

The addition is framed and closed up already, and they are just about ready to rough-in the wiring for the second floor, so that's what my focus is right now. My thoughts are to do two separate receivers, one for each floor. I have my eye on the 2113 or 2313. For the second floor, I figured I would treat the master bedroom and bath as zone 2. Their goal is to be able to watch tv in the living area while being able to simultaneously play music in the master bed/bath area. The master bed/bath audio source does not need to be separate according to the homeowners. I was planning on using the RCA outs into a separate amp to drive those two rooms. Each of the two rooms would likely have their own in-wall volume control just to manage the different level requirements in those two rooms. For those of you who are using multiple zones, do you have any recommendations on an amp that would work nicely with the 2113/2313? I get the feeling they don't want to break the bank for this so I'm probably looking for an amp that's under $500 and can drive 2 pairs of speakers. I've seen options as low as $100, but I'd hate to pair this nice new Denon with some lousy amp that sounds like crap just to save a few bucks.

Will the Denon ios remote app be able to control two separate systems from the same ipad/iphone? I downloaded it to my iphone and based on the "demo" setting it looks like it will detect whatever's on your network, or whatever IP address you plug into it. What about multiple ios devices (i.e. one iphone+ one ipad) controlling the same unit? I liked the little bit that I saw b/c it looks fairly intuitive, even for the lay person....the homeowners aren't exactly the A/V-tech savvy type.

Any input is greatly appreciated!

The display doesn't always have to be 1080p native though. The 27" Sony LCD I have in my bedroom is a 720p monitor, but it will quite happily accept 1080p, then downsample it to its native resolution. As such, its EDID data does show 1080p as one of the accepted modes.

One other option for the OP is to look at computer displays that accept HDMI; most of these are HDCP compliant these days, so that might be an optino (and more likely to get native 1080P).

Thanks guys. I am going to have to give it a try. I had thought about the fact that it won't be on all the time, but I wouldn't like to have to keep unplugging the HDMI cable from the display. I'll do some testing when I can. I'll post back when I can. Thanks.

If you were going to choose between 3313CI and 4311CI,which would you rather pick? MultiEQ XT vs MultiEQ XT32, one is 1200 (3313Ci) and other is 1500 (4311Ci).

The 4311CI as XT32 wins hands down ... much better EQ of speakers (32x more filter control points) and sub (4x more filter control points). Only go with the 3313CI if you need one of the features not offered on the 4311CI (eg. Spotify, Zone 2(HDMI), gapless ALAC/FLAC, 4k, etc.).

Yea... I don't need any of those spoofy thingy, 4K resolution? nah I rather have OLED TV. Gapless ALAC/FLAC meh. Seem like 4311CI is hands down choice thanks. I will get it after my vacation hehe

I have now received my AVR-2113CI and set it up in my man cave. I have five identical 6x9 multi-element car speakers mounted in the ceiling and a powered subwoofer in the front right corner. Although these are 4Ω speakers, I took a chance and they seem to work fine, some people say that if I really cranked the amp, it would overheat but I'm unlikely to crank that hard. They are 130/500 watt continuous/max rated.

I ran the Audyssey setup but stopped after 3 sample sessions and then selected Calculate which seemed to work OK with no errors and settings saved; is that a problem or should I do all 8?

I've played music from Pandora in DTS-NEO6 and the sound is pretty good but the rear speakers are putting out way less bass than the front ones, the center speaker seems louder than front left and right, and there's not much bass coming from the subwoofer. From what I've read, I believe that I can go into setup and tell the 2113 that I am using large speakers front and rear and specify the crossover frequency for the subwoofer. My question is... will specifying manual choices for the speaker sizes etc mess up the Audyssey settings or can I combine my speaker size etc choices with use of Audyssey?

Thanks in advance for any help