The **OFFICIAL** Denon AVR-XX13 Model Owner's Thread & FAQ - Page 109

The first device can be connected to a digital --> analog converter and on board sources (eg. internet radio, Pandora, Spotify, Airplay) will also pass via the Zone 2/3 pre-outs.

I assume I can just use a "Y" splitter to split my incoming S/PDIF coax so one output can go to the digital input on the AVR while the other can go to the above converter, then to the analog input on the AVR?

Will the board sources pass via the Media Player line-level outputs?

I've searched on the Denon site, but can't find any information on the RS-232 protocol used for serial control of the AVR-3313CI. Is this available? Can someone please point me to a document?

With regard to the AVR-3313CI, assuming I need to use Zone 2/3 to get audio to my sub-room, what can I use to get remote control signals to the main room AVR from the sub-room. Is there a device I can purchase which will plug into the AVR-3313CI's Remote IN jack that can listen for IR signals in my sub-room?

As an alternative, is there a recommended IR repeater which I can place the receiver in my sub-room and the transmitter in my main room - such that I would be able to control not only the AVR-3313CI but also the other components in the main room?

Thanks,

nope... you'll need to use a splitter device... the ones they use for cable tv will work...

JD - Sorry I typed the wrong model # in my first post - I do in fact have a 3313CI. I have changed to an digital optical audio cable from the TV to the AVR. I changed the TV's "Digital Sound Out" to "PCM" from "Auto" as I could not find a "STEREO" setting on the TV and now the TV appears to be sending a "STEREO" signal to the AVR but I still count not get output from the Media Player analog output. What am I missing?

Yes, both TVs display in the info box they are receiving a the 1080p signal. Without the Gefen HDMI Detective, since our kitchen Samsung LED is really a 720P display, the behavior is as you've described in the forums: HDMI drops to 720P on both displays. On the FIOS STB, I can still manually set it back to 1080i. However, it eventually falls back to 720P. I don't recall if the old Oppo reverted back to 720P if I tried setting it to 1080p.

On the Monoprice 8120, I'm surprised it hasn't received many reviews and that the reviews were only 4 stars. I had to tune the signal strength on the device, which makes sense for an extender being used for a variety of situations. Too strong of a signal caused snow on the display or the picture would cut in and out. To weak a signal caused no picture to display. Maybe the other extenders "just work" but this feature seemed useful to me. One other thing I forgot to mention originally, I didn't need to add a power supply to it. It can use a standard power supply, and I had one already, but I didn't need it for my setup.

Yes to both although doubt you'll notice any difference in the two inputs.

Sorry, misspoke ... the advice is actually NOT the same as what I suggested is ONLY good for the 3312CI, as the 3313CI has lost that feature capability so you'll have to either connect the optical audio output to an optical --> analog converter or if the TV has analog audio outputs, connect them to the AVR.

Thanks, JD. I'm not sure you answered my question. Can the built-in audio sources, like Pandora, be sent out the Media Player line-level RCA output jacks?
I can live with adding analog inputs to my other digital audio sources, so this might be a solution for me.

Again, what I'm trying to do is have a line-level output from the main room sent to a second AVR/amplifier in a second room, where I want to hear whatever programming is being heard in the main room. I would like to be able to hear the programming whether it be from an external (I guess I'm limited to) analog source, or the built-in sources like HD radio and Pandora, etc.

Thanks and sorry if I just didn't understand your answer.

The on board network source should be able to pass to the Media Player analog output as well as the Zone 2 pre-outs.

Please let us know how the unit works out once you have it up and running.

Thanks, JD. I just want to make sure you meant to say "should be able" - that you're not sure.

I've been all over the manual for this and it just doesn't go into this level of detail. It's very hard to research these things without the great help that folks like you are providing.

I generally always say "should" as I have only the manual to go by.

Denon no longer publishes this document as it results in too many questions to the CSRs that are not equpped to respond to them. PM me with your email address and I can forward it to you.

When playing stereo content is there a way to have it play from all speakers to fill the room rather than just the 2 front speakers? While it wouldn't be true surround sound filling the room is important to me?

Thanks a simple thing like changing the IP address and rebooting the MAC and IPad and voila. The receiver AVR-1913 is back on the airplay list.
Very much appreciate all the help.
Phil

Is the 1713 noticeably better than the 1613? I can get the 1613 for $138 or the 1713 for $238.

Crap spoke to soon. Disappeared again. I'll have to continue the testing. Keep you posted.

For those prices, no way. Where in the world did you find the 1613 for $138?

Amazon had it for the thanksgiving weekend. I got one for my friend when I saw it.

BTW, I have a question on the 1613. Does it have coaxial video input? My friend is having basic comcast cable, so it comes in with basic coax. Does the 1613 have coax in for the video? Thanks.

^^
If you are referring to the coax cable straight from the wall, then no, as AVRs do not have TV tuners, rather the coax cable must be connected to the TV.

I may have misled with my question. My digital audio S/PDIF connection from my PC to the AVR is using a cable with RCA connectors. I called it a coax cable, which I thought it was but perhaps I was mistaken. Do I still need a cable tv-style splitter? These expect 'F' connectors rather than RCA connectors.

I need to split the S/PDIF into two, so one can terminate at the S/PDIF digital input of the AVR and the other can go to a Digital to Analog converter so it can terminate at the analog audio input on the AVR.

Thanks and sorry for any confusion.

EE is offering, through Amazon, a 2113ci open box for under 500. I'm seriously thinking of this but one of the reviews says:

"Another not so great thing about this receiver is that it does not come with a Wifi card like your smart TV's, again makes no sense, why would you make an advance piece of equipment like this with all the great features and no Wifi card, so this means you have to hardwire it to your router."

Is that true or did the owner misunderstand instructions? If true it would not work for me as the tv/AVR system is in a different room than my router.

Second, question, another reviewer said:

"Disappointment set in early when I discovered that the 2113ci does not have dual amps, which means that bi-wiring/amping is not possible. "

Folks have advised me that using "bi-wire" is a waste, but there is bi-wiring possible with the speakers I'll have. So is the above true? Thanks in advance.

nope, i understood...

yes, you should use a splitter of some type, otherwise you may have impedance mismatch issues...

to use the catv splitter, get rca to f-type connectors...

Wifi is relatively unreliable due to all the possible sources of interference. People have reported firmware update problems, for example, which went away when they converted to wired connections. You might want to consider using power-line network adapters.
Bi-wiring has even less justification than bi-amping. It does notthing to improve audio quality. Electrically, it's identical to using a single cable which has the current-carrying capability equal to the sum of the two used when bi-wiring. Functionally, there's normally no point in using wires larger than 16 gauge.

I did not find AV Science sales on the Denon link...

Thanks.