Just to clarify, there are 4 authorized Denon refurb resellers, one of which is AC4L (linked above). A refurb item provides a 1 year warranty, and if purchased with a credit card, your card provider may add an additional 2nd year (Amex will for sure). Also note that AC4L sells a 3rd party extended warranty as well if a longer period warranty is desired.
Thanks for clarifying that for me, I didn't know that. Good information.
dayjk,
As a test, you might try accessing your Blu-ray player's video menu and setting it to generate a fixed 1080i output.
ETA: or 720p
Alternatively, this can be set in the receiver if its video processor is enabled.. See page 106 of the 1913's manual.
I don't see where you mention which BDP you currently have, or which TV you have. Sorry if I've overlooked them.
Most BDs have 1080p/60 menus.
Some older 720p HD TVs can't handle 1080p video and require 1080i video.
Thank you, you've given me some extra things to try. I have just been kind of set on the fact it's been a unsolvable compatibility issue as i dont have any issues when i connect the BDP directly to the TV and when i called Denon support they felt it was a HDMI handshake issue as well.
I can say the TV connected is an older 720/1080i Plasma so I was concerned resolution was an issue as well. I did turn the resolution down to 720 in the BDP without luck already but maybe the processor settings on the AVR are a piece of the puzzle so I will fiddle with those and see if that solves the issue.
Just to confirm, for the settings outlined on pg 106 of the manual, are those set per input, i.e., I need to be set to the BDP input before I adjust the settings or can this be set from the menu regardless of input.
Thanks again!
I had an issue in which an older, 720p TV (which can accept 1080p/60 signals) would not display an image. It turned out that the HDMI handshake would set compatible Blu-Rays to 1080p/24 when the AUTO setting in the Denon and the native setting in the Blu-Ray player was used. This television would not work with 1080p/24 signals, but the AUTO setting did not properly comprehend this. So definitely try to force 1080i, 720p, or 1080p/60 signals instead of using AUTO and see what happens. (Of course don't try 1080p/60 if you know your television won't accept it).
I was getting digital FM. I had a tech come and set up my broadband. While he was setting it up, the AVR was on FM digital station. When he had installed everything, he plugged the ethernet cable in to the AVR while it was switched on and playing FM digital, without broadband connection, though router was switched on. I immediately lost FM digital, and only got FM analog. Now however I can't get any FM at all, analog or digital. It will not even scan for stations.. It shows its searching..but once completed, it doesn't show any preset stations. On the front panel on the AVR when on FM, it shows analog.
Can any body help me with this? I did a hard reset but that didn't fix it.
What are you seeing on the 2113 display that leads you to believe it is digital as only the 3313 has an HD Tuner installed? Check to make sure the FM antenna cable didn't get disconnected from the back of the AVR.
Hi All,
Please help me in resolving the HDMI Video Flash out issue I am having with my Denon AVR 1913. Earlier I used Yamaha receiver and never had HDMI issues. After using Denon 1913 I am started getting HDMI video issues. My video comes with "dots" and screen flashes with all white dots. No picture will come. I tried to switch off the receiver reset the receiver, reset microprocessor and power off all devices. When I try to power off and on the TV video works fine some times. But again if I switch off receiver then next time it may or may not get the video. I constantly has to power off multiple time to get the video one time.My TV is samsung TV (2009 model).
Does Denon receivers have hdmi issues with TV's?. How is the right solution?. All of my devices are having latest firmware.
Thanks in advance
Hi All,
Please let me know if anyone can tell the solution. In the mean time I connected back yamaha receiver and all my HDMI handshake issue are gone. Everthing works fine with my TV. Only when I connect Denon 1913 I am getting HDMI video issues. Does this mean denon receiver has issues ?
Hi All,
Please let me know if anyone can tell the solution. In the mean time I connected back yamaha receiver and all my HDMI handshake issue are gone. Everthing works fine with my TV. Only when I connect Denon 1913 I am getting HDMI video issues. Does this mean denon receiver has issues ?
Thanks
I don't really know if this is a particular issue with DENON. I have the 1913 and have a very similar issue with mine. I had to experiment quite a lot to have it working properly. My TV is a 42" also SAMSUNG. What I found out is that I have to turn the AVR on before any other device. Then I can turn on other devices (Blue-ray/Media player if needed) and lastly the TV. This is the opposite order to many suggestions in this forum, but I found that as the only way to work for me. Please note: I had to make sure the TV Anynet+ option is off.
As said, I don't know if it's something particular to some DENON models, or SAMSUNG TV's, but unfortunately I'm in Colombia and I brought my receiver from the US, so it is not so easy for me to test another unit. If you have the chance it would be good just to confirm if the problem is present only in some models/units.
^^^
Couldn't you just connect the analog output to different input on the AVR and set Zone 2 to that? Assuming the media player outputs to both the HDMI and the analog simultanously for situations when you want the zone 1 and zone 2 both playing media player.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie
Correct. With the HDMI input assigned to the same source name as you plug the analog cable in to (eg. SAT/CBL), and as Zone 2 can only play the analog input, whenever that source is selected to play in the main zone, it will also play in Zone 2 via the analog input.
Thanks to both.
I have to confess I'm a bit confused with all the source/input assign settings in the AVR. What I tried is, I guess, kelton's suggestion. I have all "input assign" to default. I have connected the analog to the "CD" input in the AVR. Then I renamed it to "MPLAYER-Z2": Then I don't need to touch any other setting. I use MEDIAPLAYER in main zone and MPLAYER-Z2 in zone 2:
jdsmoothie's example doesn't work for me because there is no default analog input for mediaplayer. But if it was, (or I used SAT/CBL if it was available), my initial question is still valid: I can select input mode (Auto, HDMI or Analog) for that source:
If I choose Auto and play that source in both zones, would it use HDMI in zone 1? (analog is zone2 is understood). How it does the AVR select the input mode if it gets signal in both at the same time? (the media player CAN output to both HDMI and analog simultaneously, as kenton pointed out).
Hey all. Using a 2113ci, I've noticed that I have to turn down my surround speakers (sides & rear) considerably from where Audyssey sets them. This may just be personal preference, but they seem way too loud after running Audyssey. I've had to turn them down about 4-6db for the system to sound "balanced" to my ears. Anybody else experiencing this?
I'm using dipole surrounds and bipole rear speakers (switchable)...maybe this has something to do with it.
Hey all. Using a 2113ci, I've noticed that I have to turn down my surround speakers (sides & rear) considerably from where Audyssey sets them. This may just be personal preference, but they seem way too loud after running Audyssey. I've had to turn them down about 4-6db for the system to sound "balanced" to my ears. Anybody else experiencing this?
I'm using dipole surrounds and bipole rear speakers (switchable)...maybe this has something to do with it.
Is this with all sources or just certain ones (cable TV, music, etc)? If the latter, you are likely hearing the consequence of Dynamic EQ with non-reference sources. Read here: http://batpigworld.com/fadq.html#audyssey
If I choose Auto and play that source in both zones, would it use HDMI in zone 1? (analog is zone2 is understood). How it does the AVR select the input mode if it gets signal in both at the same time? (the media player CAN output to both HDMI and analog simultaneously, as kenton pointed out).
You are overcomplicating things. The analog path for Zone 2 doesn't have any impact on Main Zone. You don't need to select anything.
I currently have a 5.1 set-up with my 3313CI. Would I be able to add a second sub, and would it do anything? Or do I need to have a 7.2 set-up to use both subs? And with a 7.2 set-up, does the AVR matrix 5.1 content into the 7.2 set-up? Or does it just use 5 speakers and one sub for 5.1 content?
Is this with all sources or just certain ones (cable TV, music, etc)? If the latter, you are likely hearing the consequence of Dynamic EQ with non-reference sources. Read here: http://batpigworld.com/fadq.html#audyssey
I notice it mostly with movies and music (if using a multichannel music surround mode), not so much on TV programming. However, I've set my Tivo to only output 2CH since most of the 5.1 mixes on TV are messed up beyond belief.
I currently have a 5.1 set-up with my 3313CI. Would I be able to add a second sub, and would it do anything? Or do I need to have a 7.2 set-up to use both subs? And with a 7.2 set-up, does the AVR matrix 5.1 content into the 7.2 set-up? Or does it just use 5 speakers and one sub for 5.1 content?
You can add as many subs as you want.
In a 5.1 setup, multiple subs are calibrated as one. In a 7.2 setup, they are calibrated separately (for 2 subs). See here for some great tips on setting up multiple subs with Audyssey.
Multiple subs will smooth out room modes, but will not effect output much (6db). I've used dual subs for almost 20 years and could never go back to a single sub (in my current room), duals just sound much smoother to me.
Receivers with 7.2 will usually have surround modes that mimic 7.2 with lesser channel formats (i.e. 5.1). Edited by Alan P - 1/7/13 at 11:25am
Hi there,
I hope it's okay to jump in here and ask a question. Although I'm pretty decent with computers, I'm pretty much a noob when it comes to A/V equipment, and I'm trying to troubleshoot something that is probably painfully obvious to someone who knows this stuff. I've searched for quite some time but I guess I need someone to explain where I'm going wrong.
My husband and I just bought two new receivers (the 2313ci and 1913) to replace our aging 2308ci and 1908 receivers. We had previously had a company do the initial setup and I never liked the mess of wires they bundled up back there or not knowing how to manage the system on my own. We managed to replace the 2308 with the 2313 in our family room quite easily, so I was certain that replacing the 1908 with the 1913 would be a piece of cake after that. Not so.
On both systems, we have a Zone 2, which we really only use for music in other parts of the house. We also have a Sonamp 275 amp on each system. The 2313 was simple because it had the Zone 2 outputs, like the 2308 before it. However, although the 1908 had the same Zone 2 outputs, the 1913 did not. I knew this going in, and knew that we would have to reassign the back surround to be Zone 2 speakers. Thought I'd be able to figure that out no problem. I was wrong.
I clearly have something hooked up wrong with Zone 2 on the 1913 because whenever I attempt to use it, it blows the fuse. The amp is fine, because it was working on the 1908 and we'd never blown a fuse before. And nothing happens when using the Main Zone, only with Zone 2. Not really knowing how amps work, I don't know how to fix it.
On the 1908, we had audio wire (red/white) going between the Zone 2 on the Sonamp to the Zone 2 pre-amp on the 1908. In my infinite wisdom, I snipped the ends off the one end of the audio wire and connected them to the back surround on the 1913, and it worked ... for a while. Until it blew a fuse. So clearly, that's not the way to hook it up, but now I have no idea how to do it properly.
I've been so frustrated that I've been half-tempted to take the 1913 back to get the 2113ci just so I have the dedicated Zone 2 outputs again, but if there's a simple fix that I just don't yet understand I'd rather not go through the hassle or expense.
I'm sorry if this is a ridiculous question, but I'm very new at this and can find no handheld instructions on how to connect Zone 2 to the 1913 when you have an external amp. Can anyone be so kind as to tell me what I'm doing wrong?
Thanks.
Edit: VVVV Thanks, Alan. I have to admit to you, I don't even know why we have an external amp, particularly on this system, which only services the TV in our master bedroom and then Zone 2, which is for speakers in our bathroom/dressing room and an outdoor balcony. We were simply told we needed the amp when the company set everything up, and being the good lemmings we are, we bought it. Revealing the depths of my noobiness, can you or anyone explain what the external amp is for? Is it to give extra power, therefore volume? I have no idea if it's essential to our listening experience upstairs or not. Edited by LisaF - 1/7/13 at 12:15pm
My suspicion is that you are blowing the fuse because you are hooking speaker level output terminals to line in terminals (on your external amp). Also, you may have a short in the cable that you dissected.
Have you tried just hooking your Zone 2 speakers directly to the 1913, bypassing your external amp? This will work, but I don't know what desired function you would be losing by bypassing your external amp (?).
This has probably been answered somewhere in the 4577 posts, but I can't find it. I've also studied BatPig's manual, but didn't understand the blue light part.
Anyway, I have the main HDMI 1 output connected to the ARC HDMI on my tv, and the Zone 2 HDMI output connected to my kitchen tv with in wall cable. Pass through is enabled and I 'cannot' turn the 3313 off. I press the main button on the remote and then the power button. The display reads 'main off', but the unit appears to still be on. Pushing Zone 2 and power off on the remote displays 'Zone 2 off', but it 's still lit up. Last night, I just unplugged it. How do I turn it off.
I'm accustomed to seeing a Blue Light on the display when receiving a digital signal on my previous ES Sony. How do I get that on this Denon?
Where in the menu can I set up or just review Surround parameters. I can't find it anywhere.
sorry if this had been asked before:
got the new media console, my 2113 is very tight fit height wise, can the four rubber feet been removed? thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie
^^
Not recommended, no. Either find a new location for the AVR that provides at least 3-4" clearance above and to the sides of the AVR or time for a new stand.
the opening is tight, inside has 1.5" space above, removing the feet if doable could give 2.5" clearance which i can live with.
another question: is this okay to use high gauge cable for front speakers and lower gauge for surrounds?
The receiver *really* needs adequate air flow to keep cool. If you can't provide the recommended spacing, you should seriously consider getting external computer-type fans to prevent it from overheating. Hot electronics tends to fail more quickly.
Using differing gauges of speaker wire is not a problem.
Hmmm. So in reading even further, including Batpig's helpful "Understanding Zones" on his blog, I think I'm starting to get a little more of a handle on my problem from a couple of posts up. And now I'm a little worried that I really should have bought a 2113 or even another 2313 (although that seems like such overkill for a bedroom).
I *think* my problem lies in the fact that perhaps I'm not supposed to be using an external amp with the 1913 at all? Or at least, not for Zone 2? We're not having any trouble at all with the Main Zone, but I can't tell if the Main Zone is even being helped out by the external amp as I never see any light activity on the Sonamp when only the Main Zone is on; it only appears to activate (or it did, previously) when Zone 2 was in service. Anyway, I'm getting the idea that the way I hooked it up, I'm basically doubling up on powering Zone 2 (didn't realize the Surround Back outputs WERE amps).
I guess my new question is this: Is there a way to use an external amp with the 1913's Zone 2? And if not, do I need an external amp at all? These are the speakers we have that need to be powered:
Main Zone: 5 in-ceiling speakers in the bedroom (L,C,R in front, L,R in back)
Zone 2: 2 in-ceiling speakers in bathroom, 1 in-ceiling speaker in dressing room, 2 speakers on balcony (these 2 are almost never in use)
I'm completely unfamiliar with how much power a speaker uses, so I don't know if I could just wire the Zone 2 speakers directly to the Surround Back without an external amp or not.
I'm kind of sick about this, as I believe I'm not sure I have the receipt any more! Never dreamed that what I perceived to be an upgrade to the 1908 would actually take away an ability that I needed (Zone 2 pre-outs).
Edit: Still reading up. Perhaps a speaker level to line level adapter will do the trick? Edited by LisaF - 1/7/13 at 3:51pm
Hmmm. So in reading even further, including Batpig's helpful "Understanding Zones" on his blog, I think I'm starting to get a little more of a handle on my problem from a couple of posts up. And now I'm a little worried that I really should have bought a 2113 or even another 2313 (although that seems like such overkill for a bedroom).
I *think* my problem lies in the fact that perhaps I'm not supposed to be using an external amp with the 1913 at all? Or at least, not for Zone 2? We're not having any trouble at all with the Main Zone, but I can't tell if the Main Zone is even being helped out by the external amp as I never see any light activity on the Sonamp when only the Main Zone is on; it only appears to activate (or it did, previously) when Zone 2 was in service. Anyway, I'm getting the idea that the way I hooked it up, I'm basically doubling up on powering Zone 2 (didn't realize the Surround Back outputs WERE amps).
I guess my new question is this: Is there a way to use an external amp with the 1913's Zone 2? And if not, do I need an external amp at all? These are the speakers we have that need to be powered:
Main Zone: 5 in-ceiling speakers in the bedroom (L,C,R in front, L,R in back)
Zone 2: 2 in-ceiling speakers in bathroom, 1 in-ceiling speaker in dressing room, 2 speakers on balcony (these 2 are almost never in use)
I'm completely unfamiliar with how much power a speaker uses, so I don't know if I could just wire the Zone 2 speakers directly to the Surround Back without an external amp or not.
I'm kind of sick about this, as I believe I'm not sure I have the receipt any more! Never dreamed that what I perceived to be an upgrade to the 1908 would actually take away an ability that I needed (Zone 2 pre-outs).
Edit: Still reading up. Perhaps a speaker level to line level adapter will do the trick?
I think you are trying to use 1913 to what it was not intended to.
You need a pre-out(un-amplified signal) to use for external amp ...1913 does not have it but your 2313 (or 2113)has it. Check out post #2 ...it has summary of what each model has
With the pre-out you have the same source material and the external amplifier can connect to multiple speakers(# depends on the amp)
Hope this helps
Is this with all sources or just certain ones (cable TV, music, etc)? If the latter, you are likely hearing the consequence of Dynamic EQ with non-reference sources. Read here: http://batpigworld.com/fadq.html#audyssey
I have the same issue.
I turned off Dynamic Eq and it corrected
Wouldn't this affect the volume of commercials ?
Hmmm. So in reading even further, including Batpig's helpful "Understanding Zones" on his blog, I think I'm starting to get a little more of a handle on my problem from a couple of posts up. And now I'm a little worried that I really should have bought a 2113 or even another 2313 (although that seems like such overkill for a bedroom).
I *think* my problem lies in the fact that perhaps I'm not supposed to be using an external amp with the 1913 at all? Or at least, not for Zone 2? We're not having any trouble at all with the Main Zone, but I can't tell if the Main Zone is even being helped out by the external amp as I never see any light activity on the Sonamp when only the Main Zone is on; it only appears to activate (or it did, previously) when Zone 2 was in service. Anyway, I'm getting the idea that the way I hooked it up, I'm basically doubling up on powering Zone 2 (didn't realize the Surround Back outputs WERE amps).
I guess my new question is this: Is there a way to use an external amp with the 1913's Zone 2? And if not, do I need an external amp at all? These are the speakers we have that need to be powered:
Main Zone: 5 in-ceiling speakers in the bedroom (L,C,R in front, L,R in back)
Zone 2: 2 in-ceiling speakers in bathroom, 1 in-ceiling speaker in dressing room, 2 speakers on balcony (these 2 are almost never in use)
I'm completely unfamiliar with how much power a speaker uses, so I don't know if I could just wire the Zone 2 speakers directly to the Surround Back without an external amp or not.
I'm kind of sick about this, as I believe I'm not sure I have the receipt any more! Never dreamed that what I perceived to be an upgrade to the 1908 would actually take away an ability that I needed (Zone 2 pre-outs).
Edit: Still reading up. Perhaps a speaker level to line level adapter will do the trick?
Correct. An external amp cannot be used with the 1913 at all .. main zone or Zone 2. The 1913 powers the Zone 2 speakers with the Surr Back/Amp Assign speaker posts so you connect the Zone 2 speakers directly to these posts (forget about the external amp).
the opening is tight, inside has 1.5" space above, removing the feet if doable could give 2.5" clearance which i can live with.
another question: is this okay to use high gauge cable for front speakers and lower gauge for surrounds?
Turning off the unit and 'blue light'
This has probably been answered somewhere in the 4577 posts, but I can't find it. I've also studied BatPig's manual, but didn't understand the blue light part.
Anyway, I have the main HDMI 1 output connected to the ARC HDMI on my tv, and the Zone 2 HDMI output connected to my kitchen tv with in wall cable. Pass through is enabled and I 'cannot' turn the 3313 off. I press the main button on the remote and then the power button. The display reads 'main off', but the unit appears to still be on. Pushing Zone 2 and power off on the remote displays 'Zone 2 off', but it 's still lit up. Last night, I just unplugged it. How do I turn it off.
I'm accustomed to seeing a Blue Light on the display when receiving a digital signal on my previous ES Sony. How do I get that on this Denon?
Where in the menu can I set up or just review Surround parameters. I can't find it anywhere.
Denon dropped the blue light for HD audio tracks several years ago. Why do you think the unit is still powered ON? The light above the power button will remain lit if either HDMI Control or IP Control is enabled. Info can be obtaine by pressing either the INFO or SETUP buttons on the remote.
So I guess the only thing left for me to figure out is, can I do without the external amp for the speaker configuration listed in my previous post? Or is that too heavy a load, meaning I need to keep the external amp and get the 2113 or 2313?
For background only level music, your Zone 2 confiiguration is likely ok, simply add an impedance matching speaker selector. If you are still able to replace the 1913 without any penalty, consider replacing it with the 1713 which although only being a 5.1 AVR also has Zone 2 pre-outs. It also uses the same version of Audyssey MultEQ XT as does your 2313CI. Edited by jdsmoothie - 1/8/13 at 2:22am
You can add as many subs as you want.
In a 5.1 setup, multiple subs are calibrated as one. In a 7.2 setup, they are calibrated separately (for 2 subs). See here for some great tips on setting up multiple subs with Audyssey.
Multiple subs will smooth out room modes, but will not effect output much (6db). I've used dual subs for almost 20 years and could never go back to a single sub (in my current room), duals just sound much smoother to me.
Receivers with 7.2 will usually have surround modes that mimic 7.2 with lesser channel formats (i.e. 5.1).
You can add as many subs as you want.
In a 5.1 setup, multiple subs are calibrated as one. In a 7.2 setup, they are calibrated separately (for 2 subs). See here for some great tips on setting up multiple subs with Audyssey.
Multiple subs will smooth out room modes, but will not effect output much (6db). I've used dual subs for almost 20 years and could never go back to a single sub (in my current room), duals just sound much smoother to me.
Receivers with 7.2 will usually have surround modes that mimic 7.2 with lesser channel formats (i.e. 5.1).
On the 7.2 AVRs, dual subs are still only calibrated as one.