No, actually the opposite, Main Zone needs to be on. With other sources (e.g. Pandora) you can turn off Main Zone and just access the stream in Zone 2 directly, but with Airplay you need to first turn it on in Main Zone and THEN select it for Zone 2. Once it's playing in Main Zone, simply turn on Zone 2 and select NETWORK as the source. Then you can switch Main Zone to a different source if you wish.
If you turn off Main Zone, the Airplay stream will stop. This is a limitation of Airplay only. If you want to JUST listen to Airplay in Zone 2, the easiest thing is just to switch Main Zone to a blank input once you get the Zone 2 stream going.
My 2113 is due to arrive on Monday, 2/18 & I want to connect my Scientific Atlantic Explorer 8300HD cable DVR, PS3, & Xbox 360 to it via HDMI. These devices are currently connected to my Samsung LN-T4665F via HDMI (picture only) & toslinked into my H/K AVR-310 for audio. I would liked to have both audio/video run through the 2113. Are there any 2113 HDMI port considerations I should be aware of in advance? Thanks!
The only consideration to be aware of is potential HDMI handshake issues with your cable box and the receiver. The SA 8300HD unfortunately is well known to be buggy when switched through an HDMI repeater. To mitigate potential issues, I would suggest you set the box to force output at one resolution (1080i) for all channels.
Other than that, just connect all three sources to the receiver with HDMI and one HDMI cable to the TV, and off you go!
knock on wood, but I've had zero handshake issues with my 1613 and my Comcast/Motorola STB. I routinely turn the TV on/off while the AVR is still on. Haven't networked the AVR yet so I use the STB to play background music.
Thanks, you are a fount of knowledge (and thanks to jdsmoothie too for previous help I was too tardy to reply to). You guys have crazy ninja AV skills (that's good+++).
I'm having a hard time deciding whether there is any value in using the "Restorer" with my 2113 when playing/streaming .mp3 music. Obviously, my ears are the final judge, so I've been leaving it off in most cases. But can someone explain what that function is really doing? I know what the Denon manual says it's doing, but that seems a little far-fetched. I also don't know if there are any conflicts between what that feature does, and what Multi EQ is already doing.
Mostly, if I turn it to "low" it just seems to make the music louder, overall.
I don't think anyone (besides Denon) knows what it's really doing. As best I can tell there's some subtle frequency response manipulation, e.g. boosting of the bass, to make the audio sound fuller.
To my ears, the low (HQ) mode also boosts the highs as well as the lows to make things more detailed/sparkly in addition to more full sounding. The High mode is intended for poor quality sources, which assumedly would have very crappy sounding treble, and so it seems to smooth out the detail a bit and not boost the highs.
Nothing it does conflicts with that MultEQ is doing per se, except for the fact that you are deviating from the "flat" frequency response that MultEQ calibrates. Many actually prefer this as it gives a little more of a "house curve" sound by boosting the bass.
I don't think anyone (besides Denon) knows what it's really doing. As best I can tell there's some subtle frequency response manipulation, e.g. boosting of the bass, to make the audio sound fuller.
To my ears, the low (HQ) mode also boosts the highs as well as the lows to make things more detailed/sparkly in addition to more full sounding. The High mode is intended for poor quality sources, which assumedly would have very crappy sounding treble, and so it seems to smooth out the detail a bit and not boost the highs.
Nothing it does conflicts with that MultEQ is doing per se, except for the fact that you are deviating from the "flat" frequency response that MultEQ calibrates. Many actually prefer this as it gives a little more of a "house curve" sound by boosting the bass.
Thanks, Batpig. I generally assumed as much, and of the three settings, the "low" seems to be the most pleasing / least intrusive. But off is essentially just as good, at least with the good speakers I have, so I'm not super concerned. It's just a curious feature.
My 2113 is due to arrive on Monday, 2/18 & I want to connect my Scientific Atlantic Explorer 8300HD cable DVR, PS3, & Xbox 360 to it via HDMI. These devices are currently connected to my Samsung LN-T4665F via HDMI (picture only) & toslinked into my H/K AVR-310 for audio. I would liked to have both audio/video run through the 2113. Are there any 2113 HDMI port considerations I should be aware of in advance? Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig
The only consideration to be aware of is potential HDMI handshake issues with your cable box and the receiver. The SA 8300HD unfortunately is well known to be buggy when switched through an HDMI repeater. To mitigate potential issues, I would suggest you set the box to force output at one resolution (1080i) for all channels.
Other than that, just connect all three sources to the receiver with HDMI and one HDMI cable to the TV, and off you go!
Thanks UGAd13 & as always, batpig!
I think I'll see how the 2113 treats the HDMI video in from the SA 8300HD & if there are issues, I'll then set the 8300 to a single resolution.
Quick question - how do i hook up a second subwoofer with the sw2? (you can redirect me if you know this thread better than me, i've searched for sw2 but it returned nothing)
I am having persistent "protect" problems with a hardly used (by me at least) refurbished (Accessories4Less) 2313. It has been back to Panurgy once already, after less than a month in my use, but past the 30 day return deadline, and came back to me last week. After being used twice, with only Stereo speakers (Klipsch KG3.5) and Panasonic Blu-Ray and TV attached (plus LAN for Spotify), it has happened again.
I have reset the microprocessor probably 50 times at this point.
S2g (Denon Support) is investigating and I hope to get a new (refurb) unit as this seems like a lemon.
Question is, is this a known problem with the XX13 units?
The two sub-outs are identical, it's just an internal y-splitter, so there is no special setting or anything that is needed to activate it.
oh thanks sorry :-). Then why is it called a 7.1 and not a 7.2? Because of the y-splitter? I'm guessing with a 7.2 the signal won't be split into 2. Does that matter when using two active subs?
I am having persistent "protect" problems with a hardly used (by me at least) refurbished (Accessories4Less) 2313. It has been back to Panurgy once already, after less than a month in my use, but past the 30 day return deadline, and came back to me last week. After being used twice, with only Stereo speakers (Klipsch KG3.5) and Panasonic Blu-Ray and TV attached (plus LAN for Spotify), it has happened again.
I have reset the microprocessor probably 50 times at this point.
S2g (Denon Support) is investigating and I hope to get a new (refurb) unit as this seems like a lemon.
Question is, is this a known problem with the XX13 units?
Do you have enough room around the AVR for it to breathe? How loud are you driving it?
This is usually not a common issue unless the AVR is overheating from being too confined.
Do you have enough room around the AVR for it to breathe? How loud are you driving it?
This is usually not a common issue unless the AVR is overheating from being too confined.
Hi Alan, thanks
Space: 6 inches above, no other unit above or below; 8 inches to the sides and about the same behind; back of the cabinet has multiple holes including a large 16x4 inch hole for cables.
The problem occurs VERY quickly and before the unit can even get hot.
I have also tried the unit outside of the cabinet, and on multiple other power supplies (all new wiring as well), and without any speakers or peripheral units connected.
Really it seems unstable to me, I find it hard to believe the operating conditions or connections are the problem, unless the microprocessor reset is completely ineffectual i.e. the unit has "memory" ....
(I did see jdsmoothie's signature re. trying MP reset multiple times, and I have done that as well)
Cheers
Julian Edited by bluetoffee316 - 2/15/13 at 8:09pm
The two sub-outs are identical, it's just an internal y-splitter, so there is no special setting or anything that is needed to activate it.
oh thanks sorry :-). Then why is it called a 7.1 and not a 7.2? Because of the y-splitter? I'm guessing with a 7.2 the signal won't be split into 2. Does that matter when using two active subs?
you would need to buy a y splitter and put it on the sub out.. they plug in the 2 sub cables to the y splitter..
7.1 only has 1 sub out.. 7.2 has 2 sub outs..
then read up on placement of dual subs..
for 2 sube ive read its best center front and rear walls or center side walls.. l and r..
oh thanks sorry :-). Then why is it called a 7.1 and not a 7.2? Because of the y-splitter? I'm guessing with a 7.2 the signal won't be split into 2. Does that matter when using two active subs?
Some call it 7.1 others 7.2, although as already indicated, the 2nd sub pre-out is simply a mirror copy of the 1st sub pre-out.
Do you have enough room around the AVR for it to breathe? How loud are you driving it?
This is usually not a common issue unless the AVR is overheating from being too confined.
Hi Alan, thanks
Space: 6 inches above, no other unit above or below; 8 inches to the sides and about the same behind; back of the cabinet has multiple holes including a large 16x4 inch hole for cables.
The problem occurs VERY quickly and before the unit can even get hot.
I have also tried the unit outside of the cabinet, and on multiple other power supplies (all new wiring as well), and without any speakers or peripheral units connected.
Really it seems unstable to me, I find it hard to believe the operating conditions or connections are the problem, unless the microprocessor reset is completely ineffectual i.e. the unit has "memory" ....
(I did see jdsmoothie's signature re. trying MP reset multiple times, and I have done that as well)
Cheers
Julian
It wouldn't hurt to verify that there are no fine strands of wire shorting to adjacent speaker posts at both ends of the cables -- at the back of the receiver and at the speakers. People often use banana plugs to terminate their speaker cables so that they can wire the connections in the open in a good light instead of down on their knees in the dark
I follow the screen menu, General - Firmware - Check for Update - Update Start, but still not sure if update is starting or not on a static screen.
...
I wanted to cancel this post, as I seem to find the answer: the firmware already is the "latest". Thus keep clicking Start did not change anything.... Edited by dta721 - 2/15/13 at 9:32pm
I have a question for all you Denon xx13 owners. I'm currently looking to replace my Onkyo HTR380 receiver with either the 1913 ($400) or the 1713 ($379). I just wanted to know if either of those sound like a good deal and the benefits of having one over the other. Also I'm unsure if I should buy now or wait for the new models, say April/may? Would they have significant changes? Ie wireless connectivity, etc.
The reason I'm replacing this current setup, is I just bought the jamo 426 speaker package to replace the onkyo speaker package and I haven't heard much difference at all. The receiver has audyssey but no configuration tool with it. Live and learn with HTIB.
I would appreciate all your opinions as Denon users to guide me in the right direction.
It wouldn't hurt to verify that there are no fine strands of wire shorting to adjacent speaker posts at both ends of the cables -- at the back of the receiver and at the speakers. People often use banana plugs to terminate their speaker cables so that they can wire the connections in the open in a good light instead of down on their knees in the dark
Thanks
I am going to triple all wiring but I do use banana plugs on all speakers (except a Klipsch center which I can't work our how to use banana plugs with, but that has never been connected since I got it back).
If necessary I will buy get some new, clean, short "test" cables to work with.
Will provide an update tomorrow night after I get a chance to review everything.
Also waiting from Denon to see if I can get a replacement unit.
I have a question for all you Denon xx13 owners. I'm currently looking to replace my Onkyo HTR380 receiver with either the 1913 ($400) or the 1713 ($379). I just wanted to know if either of those sound like a good deal and the benefits of having one over the other. Also I'm unsure if I should buy now or wait for the new models, say April/may? Would they have significant changes? Ie wireless connectivity, etc.
The reason I'm replacing this current setup, is I just bought the jamo 426 speaker package to replace the onkyo speaker package and I haven't heard much difference at all. The receiver has audyssey but no configuration tool with it. Live and learn with HTIB.
I would appreciate all your opinions as Denon users to guide me in the right direction.
Thanks
Derek
They both sound like a good deal. The 1913 sounds like a better deal than the 1713 (only an extra $20). The 1913 has for example Zone 2 functionality, an extra HDMI input, and several other things (take a look at the first post in this thread, and BatPig's buying advice).
I don't think that anyone knows what will be in the new models, at least I don't, but you wont be getting the new version of the 1913 for anything close to $400 anytime soon. So from that perspective you may not be really losing by buying now. I personally have my AVR connected to my wifi router via ethernet and it works great. I don't feel the need to have a WiFi in the AVR directly.
I have a question for all you Denon xx13 owners. I'm currently looking to replace my Onkyo HTR380 receiver with either the 1913 ($400) or the 1713 ($379). I just wanted to know if either of those sound like a good deal and the benefits of having one over the other. Also I'm unsure if I should buy now or wait for the new models, say April/may? Would they have significant changes? Ie wireless connectivity, etc.
The reason I'm replacing this current setup, is I just bought the jamo 426 speaker package to replace the onkyo speaker package and I haven't heard much difference at all. The receiver has audyssey but no configuration tool with it. Live and learn with HTIB.
I would appreciate all your opinions as Denon users to guide me in the right direction.
Thanks
Derek
Other than what was mentioned, the 2 most significant differences to me are the 1713 is 5.1 while the 1913 is 7.1. The 1713 also has MultEQ XT while the 1913 is only MultEQ. If you only and will ever only need 5.1, I'd say go with the 1713. If you may want 7.1 someday, I'd suggest the 1913.
I have a question for all you Denon xx13 owners. I'm currently looking to replace my Onkyo HTR380 receiver with either the 1913 ($400) or the 1713 ($379). I just wanted to know if either of those sound like a good deal and the benefits of having one over the other. Also I'm unsure if I should buy now or wait for the new models, say April/may? Would they have significant changes? Ie wireless connectivity, etc.
The reason I'm replacing this current setup, is I just bought the jamo 426 speaker package to replace the onkyo speaker package and I haven't heard much difference at all. The receiver has audyssey but no configuration tool with it. Live and learn with HTIB.
I would appreciate all your opinions as Denon users to guide me in the right direction.
I have a question for all you Denon xx13 owners. I'm currently looking to replace my Onkyo HTR380 receiver with either the 1913 ($400) or the 1713 ($379). I just wanted to know if either of those sound like a good deal and the benefits of having one over the other. Also I'm unsure if I should buy now or wait for the new models, say April/may? Would they have significant changes? Ie wireless connectivity, etc.
The reason I'm replacing this current setup, is I just bought the jamo 426 speaker package to replace the onkyo speaker package and I haven't heard much difference at all. The receiver has audyssey but no configuration tool with it. Live and learn with HTIB.
I would appreciate all your opinions as Denon users to guide me in the right direction.
Thanks
Derek
AFAIK, the 380 doesn't feature Audyssey calibration at all so upgrading to either the 1913 or the 1713 would be an improvement. The 1913 is a 7.1 AVR and would allow you to power Zone 2 speakers with a 5.1 setup in the main zone while the 1713 being only a 5.1 AVR requires an additional amp for Zone 2. If you don't expect to go beyond a 5.1 setup or need Zone 2, then the 1713 would be the better buy. At this point, it is uncertain what the new 2013 models will bring until the mfr's start releasing that information.
Nice to have a dedicated thread! I just purchased a 1913 but have a couple of issue's. I am replacing an old HK 7000 and find the 1913 to be much lower volume output. Am I missing something in the setup? Also I seem to be having a Hand shake issue between my dish net box/tv/ 1913. When changing channels I get a short flicker and delay on the screen before the channel actually changes. The audio and video signal drop out occationally. I have checked the sat box settings and they seem to be ok. Can anyone direct me to previous comments regarding this type of issue?