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The **OFFICIAL** Denon AVR-XX13 Model Owner's Thread & FAQ - Page 219

post #6541 of 10468
ams1516,

If you haven't already, you probably should report your problems to Apple.

Unfortunately, your symptoms are consistent with limitations in the HDMI driver provided by Apple. Often when there's a driver limitation (as opposed to a bug) it doesn't get fixed until the next non-free version of the operating system.
post #6542 of 10468
My 2113 is in a TV cab and I notice the temp is getting to about 34-37 when playing a movie when unit in standby about 21

I just got a 12cm fan that runs from USB and want to install it. What is the best position for a fan, on top sucking the air or blowing the air across the unit from the fan sitting behind the amp.

Any one doing this?

The space around my amp is 2.5 " above and 1.5" each side with about 6" space behind, the rear of the TV stand is only open with a small hole for cables to exit. No doors on the front.
post #6543 of 10468
I plan to eventually buy an amp to connect to the pre-outs in the AVR. In cases like this, do you still control the volume using the AVR or does the amp have separate volume control?
post #6544 of 10468
It's been about a week since I upgraded the firmware on my 3313CI. The only "fix" I'm aware of that applies to me is the fix to the Pandora display. Although I haven't watched it every minute of the day, I've been playing it quite a bit over this last week and haven't seen a case yet where it incorrectly showed "Internet Radio".

It looks like that problem is resolved.
post #6545 of 10468
^^
Thanks for the followup and confirmation. smile.gif
post #6546 of 10468
Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGala View Post

I plan to eventually buy an amp to connect to the pre-outs in the AVR. In cases like this, do you still control the volume using the AVR or does the amp have separate volume control?

Yes .. still via the AVR.
post #6547 of 10468
Quote:
Originally Posted by raymate View Post

My 2113 is in a TV cab and I notice the temp is getting to about 34-37 when playing a movie when unit in standby about 21

I just got a 12cm fan that runs from USB and want to install it. What is the best position for a fan, on top sucking the air or blowing the air across the unit from the fan sitting behind the amp.

Any one doing this?

The space around my amp is 2.5 " above and 1.5" each side with about 6" space behind, the rear of the TV stand is only open with a small hole for cables to exit. No doors on the front.

Generally you want to suck the air away from the top of the unit and it's generally hottest on the left side (facing the unit) due to the video card. You may want to consider cutting a hole in the back of the cabinet just enough to secure the fan.
post #6548 of 10468
Quote:
Originally Posted by jespert View Post

Hello there, this is my first post as I just got an AVR-1913. I am generally very impressed with it and I have already used this thread many times to help get it all working. Thank you!

I have an annoying handshake issue between the receiver and my older Toshiba 40RV525RZ TV (2009). Sometimes (30%-40%) when turning on the receiver while the TV is on, or when switching input while the TV is on, the video will get a redish or greenish tint. I can fix it by cycling the TV but that gets annoying. I know it has nothing to with my HDMI inputs (DVD and WD LiveHub), because I can easily reproduce the problem when nothing is connected to the HDMI inputs by simply switching from “network” to “Internet Radio” for example. Now for the strange part, if I use an older style HDMI cable, then this never happens but I loose the HDMI-CEC features! I have not been able to find anyone with a similar problem in this thread as most handshake posts have to do with specific HDMI input sources. Any ideas? Maybe this has to do with the older TV (HDMI 1.3), but I have no issues while connecting my HDMI devices directly.

I also have a sound issue when receiving the TV sound through the optical audio cable (no ARC). Every so often (3-4 times per hour) the audio volume will be lowered and then return to normal within a few seconds. Somewhat similar to how the audio is phased in when changing TV channels. Initially I thought it was a signal strength issue, but it seems to happen randomly on all channels. Is there some kind of automatic volume control in the receiver that could cause this?

Question: I can still return the AVR-1913 for a refund. Should I consider the 2113 or the new e400 to see if it fixes the handshake issue? I suspect the 2113 has a newer video chip as it supports 4K and I have noticed a lot more handshake issue posts for the 1913. Do you think it is worth trying one of those models or should I just live with it and hope it goes away when I replace the TV one day?

A greenish tint is more often than not the result of a defective HDMI cable. ARC should work with HDMI 1.3 or HDMI 1.4 cables as it's the TV and AVR that "both" must be ARC capable for ARC to work so with an older HDMI 1.3 the ARC feature won't work with this TV. The HDMI-CEC feature of turning the devices all off should also not be affected by the version stamped on the cable. Try replacing the cables with new "High Speed" cables from Monoprice and see if that doesn't resolve the issue. There's no guarantee that upgrading to the 2113CI (or E400) will resolve the issue if replacing the cables does not, so you may want to talk with the reseller if you are interested in changing out the 1913.
post #6549 of 10468
I had a small fan blowing air across the top of my 2313 and then decided to try it so that it is pulling air through the receiver and blowing straight up and it made a huge difference. I've located the fan on the left side towards the back and the top is now literally cool to the touch and I have the fan speed dialed down so that it's not audible unless you're up very close. I think that JDSmoothie's idea to locate the fan so that it is sucking air out of the cabinet through a hole in the back of the cabinet would be a good one and should result in air flow through the receiver. The difference though between just blowing air across the top and directly sucking air through the receiver is night and day if it just sits on a shelf in the open. Hope this helps, Mike
post #6550 of 10468
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post

as far as a Mac as the home theater computer and getting the audio output into 2 channel so the Denon can then mix into the dolby or dts presets, I got this info from a Mac forum and will confirm tonight when I get home. smile.gif


Open Audio MIDI in the Utilities folder in Applications, select HDMI, and make sure output is set to 2 channel 16 bit and 44.1 kHz. Then close and reopen iTunes and play some music. Your AVR should now allow you to select Dolby ProLogic II Music mode.

This has successfully worked. smile.gif
post #6551 of 10468
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

A greenish tint is more often than not the result of a defective HDMI cable. ARC should work with HDMI 1.3 or HDMI 1.4 cables as it's the TV and AVR that "both" must be ARC capable for ARC to work so with an older HDMI 1.3 the ARC feature won't work with this TV. The HDMI-CEC feature of turning the devices all off should also not be affected by the version stamped on the cable. Try replacing the cables with new "High Speed" cables from Monoprice and see if that doesn't resolve the issue. There's no guarantee that upgrading to the 2113CI (or E400) will resolve the issue if replacing the cables does not, so you may want to talk with the reseller if you are interested in changing out the 1913.

Sorry, I wasn't clear. The TV does not support ARC. However, when using the older non-high speed HDMI cable, the HDMI-CEC volume and on/off features do not work, but the video is perfect with no handshake issues. With my newer cable marked "HDMI 1.4", I have the handshake issues but HDMI-CEC works perfectly. Somehow, I can't have both! :-) Both cables work fine for 1080p video when connecting my DVD player directly to the TV. Nevertheless, I will try a new cable. Does it matter if it has ethernet support?
post #6552 of 10468
Quote:
Originally Posted by deltadube View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by deltadube View Post

im so disappointed in my denon 3313 ci.. it said 125 wpc.. wow only in 1 ... so in stereo its only 62 watts ..

good thing it does have pre outs... i added a real emotiva separate amp the xpa 3 wow what a night and day difference in the sound quality..

you need power and lots of it if you want good sound quality even at moderate levels..

not too happy with my denon but the emotiva amp really gave my system

sonic nirvana!!!!

biggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gif

Denon AVRs generally meet their marketed rating (eg. 125W) into 2CH.

no way jd... i found some specs..

cheers..

see what a real amp can do when u hook it up night and day....


Hi JD just wanted to share i found some other specs on the Denon indicating your are correct about the 2 channel out put at 125 watts..
but in multi channel not even close..

when they write 7 discrete channels at 125 watts per channel thats is pretty dam deceptive..

and way over stated.. no wonder these new avrs are 33% lighter than about 5 or 6 yrs ago..

they got no amps in em..

still pretty disapointed in my denon 3313ci avr luck its got some pre out to add da power of da watt eh...

Denon AVR-3312CI A/V Receiver HT Labs Measures
Seven channels driven continuously into 8-ohm loads:
0.1% distortion at 79.5 watts
1% distortion at 96.8 watts

a 1% figure is a clipping amp..

not good for speakers, this avr is very weak imho think i will go for 500 watt mono blocks.. you need power for good sound and lots of it.. if you want Sonic Nirvana Eh...

http://www.hometheater.com/content/denon-avr-3312ci-av-receiver-ht-labs-measures

cheers..
post #6553 of 10468
Quote:
Originally Posted by jespert View Post

Sorry, I wasn't clear. The TV does not support ARC. However, when using the older non-high speed HDMI cable, the HDMI-CEC volume and on/off features do not work, but the video is perfect with no handshake issues. With my newer cable marked "HDMI 1.4", I have the handshake issues but HDMI-CEC works perfectly. Somehow, I can't have both! :-) Both cables work fine for 1080p video when connecting my DVD player directly to the TV. Nevertheless, I will try a new cable. Does it matter if it has ethernet support?

No. Ethernet over HDMI is not currently featured on AVRs so there's no need to pay extra for this type cable although can still be used for regular HDMI connectivity. You may also want to consider using a Harmony remote for ON/OFF of your various devices along with the "older" cable.
post #6554 of 10468
Hi. Just got a avr2113 and stumped with the audio. I need 2 TV audio settings. One with arc when playing movies etc thru the TVs inbuilt media player and possibly sky, one for when using sky and it has Dolby digital sound. I can not find a way to change this other than resetting up the inputs. Is there a way, surely. My old Sony bluray cinema 1 box could do this. Thanks and help
post #6555 of 10468
Welcome to AVSForum! smile.gif

Not sure of the issue as you would be using two source names ... (1) When using ARC, the AVR will default to the "TV" source name to pass the audio from the TV's on board apps back to the AVR via the HDMI cable that connects the AVR to the TV, and (2) When using the Sky box you would likely use the CBL/SAT source name. When the Sky box is passing DD 5.1, the AVR should default to DD 5.1 and when only PCM 2.0, you would likely want to use DD PLII - Cinema to simulate 5.1 from the 2.0 audio.

Also be sure to review posts #3-6 in this thread as there is additional helpful information provided there.
post #6556 of 10468
Quote:
Originally Posted by alexandru27 View Post

I havent noticed any particular smell. As compared to the previous (returned) Yamaha, which did have a certain smell that I've considered rather normal for a new receiver (and it should dissapear in a few days, at most 1-2 weeks) - this Denon 2113 didnt bother me at all smell-wise.

Still, mine tends to get quite hot upon prolonged listening or at high volumes. If you say yours doesnt even get too warm, then I have no idea where that plastic smell might come from.
Thanks. Today it was almost odorless, it may be getting better already...
post #6557 of 10468
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Welcome to AVSForum! smile.gif

Not sure of the issue as you would be using two source names ... (1) When using ARC, the AVR will default to the "TV" source name to pass the audio from the TV's on board apps back to the AVR via the HDMI cable that connects the AVR to the TV, and (2) When using the Sky box you would likely use the CBL/SAT source name. When the Sky box is passing DD 5.1, the AVR should default to DD 5.1 and when only PCM 2.0, you would likely want to use DD PLII - Cinema to simulate 5.1 from the 2.0 audio.

Also be sure to review posts #3-6 in this thread as there is additional helpful information provided there.

Thanks for this. If I use digital coax in for sky it transmits dd5.1 not prologic and so would want that for sky, and to use arc for TVs sound for in built media player etc. As sky don't transmit dd5.1 thru my HDMI box am I screwed. Just want arc as standard and to be able to switch to digital coax when required
post #6558 of 10468
I'm having trouble with my marantz sr6007 and am feeling a little uneasy about it. I'm thinking about switching to this 3313 receiver while I'm under my return time and was wondering how it would compair? I'm running a 5.1 setup do to current living room set up. Thanks, any help would be great!!
post #6559 of 10468
Quote:
Originally Posted by jespert View Post

Sorry, I wasn't clear. The TV does not support ARC. However, when using the older non-high speed HDMI cable, the HDMI-CEC volume and on/off features do not work, but the video is perfect with no handshake issues. With my newer cable marked "HDMI 1.4", I have the handshake issues but HDMI-CEC works perfectly. Somehow, I can't have both! :-) Both cables work fine for 1080p video when connecting my DVD player directly to the TV. Nevertheless, I will try a new cable. Does it matter if it has ethernet support?

It sounds to me like you have a bad "newer" HDMI cable. Purchase a decent "newer" HDMI cable and try that.
You can purchase high-quality HDMI cables from Monoprice for very little money. Like these, for example:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240#1024004
post #6560 of 10468
Quote:
Originally Posted by ams1516 View Post

Thanks for the advice. Nothing I have tried seems to work, including TMT 5. MPC and TMT both say "PCM". The nearest I got to a solution was using VLC, where I at least got standard DTS. By the way, the TMT menu defaults to HDMI connection and primary source when the PC is connected to the AV, both are greyed out, so even with those settings, the status of the AV still only shows PCM.

Right, after tinkering with media players of all types, including VLC, MPC, Windows Payer, TMT 5, I finally came across one that actually worked - XBMC. OK, it's not nearly as user friendly as MPC or VLC, but it's the only I have tried that shows DTS HD Master Audio on the Denon display. It took me a while to get the right settings, even with this player, but I suppose it was worth it in the end.

It does confuse me why the Denon cannot simply decode what the BD is equipped with as a default, and why it is necessary to spend hours tinkering with the settings on the players. It's not what I expected when I purchased the AV. Maybe I should get an external media player, rather than playing films through the PC.
post #6561 of 10468
A receiver can only decode what's sent to it. There's no way for it to control the source device, so it's up to you to configure the player device, whether it's a dedicated disc player or PC decoder software, to send the appropriate bits.
post #6562 of 10468
Quote:
Originally Posted by Selden Ball View Post

A receiver can only decode what's sent to it. There's no way for it to control the source device, so it's up to you to configure the player device, whether it's a dedicated disc player or PC decoder software, to send the appropriate bits.

Fair enough, it just seems odd to me that a disc with a default sound setting cannot automatically be decoded by the software, whether it be in the PC or the AV. It just puzzles me why I have to spend time and lots of frustration applying settings when the software should be able to decode the given sound source automatically. I do understand what you say about the AV only being able to decode what is sent to it - it's the PC software that seems to be limited.
post #6563 of 10468
Have you tried any of the commercial disc player software packages that are available for PCs, Like WinDVD or PowerDVD?
post #6564 of 10468
First off... I apologize as I'm sure this has been asked somewhere, and I'm working my way through this thread (Currently on page 42!) but I wanted to get clarification on this. In advance, special thanks to JD, BATPIG, et al... for the amazing knowledge and advice you all have let me in on... just by reading through this thread, post by post, I've learned so much and gotten so many questions answered without even having to ask!

When I run Audyssey it sets my front L/R to large. From reading this thread I know to change them to small and set crossover at 80 hz. My question is this: I set my sub as follows: phase at 0... level at halfway, or 12 o'clock... and the frequency all the way up (or highest frequency). After running the calibration should I adjust any of the sub settings? Should I lower the frequency on the sub back to it's original position? Should I adjust the master level back to where I like it? After that, should I adjust the settings that Audyssey comes up with? Or should I just leave everything the way it is, post-calibration?

I'm sorry if this has been gone over a thousand times. I have a 7.1 set-up, brand new 1913, and I've never owned Audyssey before... just trying to figure it all out. Thanks so much!
post #6565 of 10468
leave all the other setting, including the sub, as is; listen a week or so; and if you still want a boost in bass, turn it up via the AVR channel level; had the same question no so long ago... wink.gif
post #6566 of 10468
Quote:
Originally Posted by SanchoPanza View Post

leave all the other setting, including the sub, as is; listen a week or so; and if you still want a boost in bass, turn it up via the AVR channel level; had the same question no so long ago... wink.gif

Got it. I'm going to run it again. Just to be absolutely clear (because it sounds strange to me)... After calibration, leave the physical settings on the sub, like the frequency all the way up, where they are? Can you explain why? Sorry if I'm being bone-headed about this...
post #6567 of 10468
Quote:
Originally Posted by MJRHARTLEY View Post

Got it. I'm going to run it again. Just to be absolutely clear (because it sounds strange to me)... After calibration, leave the physical settings on the sub, like the frequency all the way up, where they are? Can you explain why? Sorry if I'm being bone-headed about this...

The LFE frequency is being controlled by the AVR. It should be set to 120 hz. Even if your knob is at 150 hz, since the AVR's setting is at 120 hz, that's what the subwoofer will receive. If you set the knob to 100 hz, but the AVR is set to 120 hz, then you are removing 20 hz of sound range from the sub. Just set the knob to the max hz and let the AVR control it.
post #6568 of 10468
Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGala View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by MJRHARTLEY View Post

Got it. I'm going to run it again. Just to be absolutely clear (because it sounds strange to me)... After calibration, leave the physical settings on the sub, like the frequency all the way up, where they are? Can you explain why? Sorry if I'm being bone-headed about this...

The LFE frequency is being controlled by the AVR. It should be set to 120 hz. Even if your knob is at 150 hz, since the AVR's setting is at 120 hz, that's what the subwoofer will receive. If you set the knob to 100 hz, but the AVR is set to 120 hz, then you are removing 20 hz of sound range from the sub. Just set the knob to the max hz and let the AVR control it.

There was a long discussion about the subwoofer's Low Pass Filter setting just a little while ago; in the Audyssey thread, I think. The conclusion was that there are valid reasons for setting it to 80 Hz instead of 120 Hz. It's not a "brick wall" filter, so it's not as if you're entirely eliminating everything above the LPF setting. At any rate, in some rooms for some source material an LPF of 80 Hz can sound better.
post #6569 of 10468
Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGala View Post

The LFE frequency is being controlled by the AVR. It should be set to 120 hz. Even if your knob is at 150 hz, since the AVR's setting is at 120 hz, that's what the subwoofer will receive. If you set the knob to 100 hz, but the AVR is set to 120 hz, then you are removing 20 hz of sound range from the sub. Just set the knob to the max hz and let the AVR control it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Selden Ball View Post

There was a long discussion about the subwoofer's Low Pass Filter setting just a little while ago; in the Audyssey thread, I think. The conclusion was that there are valid reasons for setting it to 80 Hz instead of 120 Hz. It's not a "brick wall" filter, so it's not as if you're entirely eliminating everything above the LPF setting. At any rate, in some rooms for some source material an LPF of 80 Hz can sound better.

These comments concerning the LPF are probably just confusing to MJRHARTLEY....I'm relatively sure he is referring to the crossover, not the LPF.
Quote:
Got it. I'm going to run it again. Just to be absolutely clear (because it sounds strange to me)... After calibration, leave the physical settings on the sub, like the frequency all the way up, where they are? Can you explain why? Sorry if I'm being bone-headed about this...

You leave the crossover on the sub all the way up to basically defeat it. If your sub has an option to defeat the crossover, use that instead. You want your AVR handling the crossover duties.
post #6570 of 10468
Does the AVR -2313ci support the playback of 6 channel FLAC files from a network server or USB stick?
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