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RG-6 wire to passive Subwoofer???

post #1 of 14
Thread Starter 
I have the Onkyo HT-S3400 HT system. I will be moving into a new home soon and I'm getting a 5.1 speaker rough-in package installed in the home. The package includes five 16/2 speaker wires at any location in the family room and one RG6 location for the Subwoofer.

My problem with this is that the HT system comes with a passive sub and the receiver does not support active subwoofers.

Is there any way to convert RG6 to 16/2 regular speaker wire for passive subs?

P.S My sub takes two regular speaker wires just like the speakers and nothing else, am i right to assume this means its passive?
post #2 of 14
You would need to get an amp to power that sub. Check out parts express for one.
post #3 of 14
You can leave the RG6 from the AVR and locate an amp on top of of the sub. If you ever get a powered sub you already have the correct cable.
post #4 of 14
Active sub will have AC power cable.
post #5 of 14
Thread Starter 
Like i said the receiver does not support active subs so that is out of the question.
post #6 of 14
So you cannot connect a sub to your Onkyo or control LFE (gain, distance, crossover) then you have no problem because a sub will be on any use IMHO since you can't control it or even connect to it.
post #7 of 14
What sort of avr are you using..
post #8 of 14
Thread Starter 
the one that came in the HTiB was an Onkyo HT-R390, I am a techy but when it comes to audio equipment i'm a total noob so bare with me if i give the wrong information. All i know is the Sub connects the same way as the speakers do to the ARV, but the package is providing RG-6 for just the sub and from what i gathered this is coax/rca type cable and not like regular speaker cable.

http://www.us.onkyo.com/zoom.cfm?cla...ms&m=HT-S3400# click rear view to see connections on the AVR.

So i need to figure out either how to use the RG-6 cable or just run a wire straight to the sub from the AVR myself, but don't want to run a single wire if i'm paying $600 for them to wire it for me.
post #9 of 14
Two things. 16/2 is pretty thin. How long are your runs? Consider upgrading to 14/2 or even 12/2 as the price difference should be minimal. This would allow you for more flexibility in the future should you ever decide to upgrade the HTiB to separates.

Second is that while it may be possible to use RG6 as speaker wire, it is not ideal nor recommended. To do that just have your guy terminate the RG6 to an RCA jack then take an RCA patch cable and cut it in half. Strip the cut ends back a couple of inches so you can expose the shielding and center cable. Use the center cable as the + connection and then twist the shielding together to use as the - connection. You will need to either use heatshrink tubing or electrical tape to cover the bare shielding to prevent shorting.

Doing it this way will give you the possibility of upgrading to a true active sub in the future. I wouldn't recommend it as the resistance will probably be too high and will affect the performance of the speaker/sub you are connecting to it, but it is possible. Again, do this at your own risk and I would highly discourage it. I am not an electrician and cannot tell you if your Onkyo is capable of enough current to melt the extremely thin wires (relatively) in RG6 to cause a fire hazard.
post #10 of 14
Thread Starter 
See the thing is i'm stuck with what they provide, this is going in a new home that does not even have foundation yet. The builder will not make any additions on anything unless you have the $$ to back it up even for a small sub wire. The wire run for the sub will be minimal maybe 2 feet or less, plan to keep it beside the AVR.

Its either i get them to do it now our hire someone to fish later, I still trying to push them to include both RG-6 and 16/2 cables for the sub.

If anything since its a small run i might just run it along the trip to the AVR.
post #11 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by jebise101 View Post

See the thing is i'm stuck with what they provide, this is going in a new home that does not even have foundation yet. The builder will not make any additions on anything unless you have the $$ to back it up even for a small sub wire. The wire run for the sub will be minimal maybe 2 feet or less, plan to keep it beside the AVR.

Its either i get them to do it now our hire someone to fish later, I still trying to push them to include both RG-6 and 16/2 cables for the sub.

If anything since its a small run i might just run it along the trip to the AVR.

Again, 16/2 wire is quite small. Get them to run 12 gauge wiring since this is a new construction. If the distance is less that 2' I wouldn' t even bother doing in wall wiring. It will be easier to just run it along the floor.
post #12 of 14
Thread Starter 
will that make much of a difference, because i doubtfull they will upgrade to 12. Am i better off getting bestbuy to do it later?

PS bestbuy would be cheaper too, just wanted the builder to do it before the walls are up to make everyone's lives easier.
post #13 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by jebise101 View Post

will that make much of a difference, because i doubtfull they will upgrade to 12. Am i better off getting bestbuy to do it later?

PS bestbuy would be cheaper too, just wanted the builder to do it before the walls are up to make everyone's lives easier.

See this chart for recommended wire sizes based on speaker impedance and wire length. It will always be cheaper AND easier to run wires before the wall is finished. The price difference between 16g and 12g should be minimal for just a few runs. The majority of the cost will be the labor and the labor is the same regardless of the wire size. If your contractor won't provide the 12 gauge wire, just buy it yourself and give it to them to run instead of the 16 gauge.

It is always preferable to make permanent things like in wall wiring capable of handling future upgrades. Sure, you have a HTiB speakers which most likely are 8 - 16ohms, but who's to say you don't decide later on you want a full blown theater setup and the speakers you want are 4 ohms. In this case 16g may be too small a wire to carry the signal without degrading it. Keep in mind speaker manufacturers only state the nominal impedance. Actual impedance can drop VERY low depending on frequencies. I know some Martin Logans will dip down below 1 ohm even though they are 4 ohm nominal.

Will it make a noticeable difference? YMMV. It all depends on you and your setup. For basic movie listening at moderate volumes in a room with poor acoustics maybe not. But once you start moving up ladder in terms of quality, you will start noticing insufficient wire sizing.

Note that I said sizing and not cost. Any decent quality wire of sufficient size will work. You can get it from any 12 gauge stranded wire from your local hardware store or eBay. Last time I checked eBay it was less than $80 shipped for a 500' spool of 12 gauge. It doesn't need to be name brand.
post #14 of 14
Thread Starter 
thanks for that i will try to get 12g, and if it were as easy as buying the cables and giving it to the builder i would have done that from the start. They do not take anything from the client what they provide if what I'm stuck with and if i want to update there is a fee.

Yes lame and weird but that's just how it is, and i don't think they do much speaker package sell and will not budge with the type of wire they use.
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