Tennessean Cinema build - Page 2

Baffle wall is up. Hope to get the insulation in it and put the MDF and Linacoustic "face" on it tomorrow and Saturday.

Added insulation and a bit of the mdf face....

There will be a framed screen wall in front of this one. I can take the screen out of the cutout and get back to these speakers.

I have a switch set up in my wiring closet that I can turn on and off the circuit that goes to the speakers, and the circuits that go to my subs. THe three Catalysts are on one 20A circuit and the F2 subs get one 20A circuit per two subs.

See below picture. The blank plates are so that I have the future capability of automating this on/off of the speakers with a RadioRa remote switcher. So if I get tired of manually flipping the switch I can add that in later.

The MDF is to give the wall mass I assume. There will be a final layer of Linacoustic on the face of the baffle wall.

I ended up just screwing the linacoustic to it and putting large washers on to hold it.

Lol yeah - just got that done tonight.

Here is the bare MDF wall and then with the Linacoustic. I need to tape some felt to the washers. Funny - I swear the room sounds more live with the Linacoustic on than it did with the bare MDF. More slap echo.

Here is the progress so far. Got the riser (except for the steps) and screenwall built. The soffits have been started and hopefully will be mostly complete by the end of this weekend. I will also be painting the screenwall and the collars black this weekend. The riser has r19 batts in it and the top is made of three layers of OSB with Green Glue in between (3/4" , 1/2", 3/4") and will get cutouts made in the back top of it with grates/diffusors over them, making it into a large bass trap of Dennis's design. The two holes in the wall lead into the other custom bass trap area. One will simply be a hole for sound to go into so the bass trap can work, the other is for a Seaton F2 sub to sit flush in that wall (on a stand of course).

We have lights! (and soffits)

So the soffits are pretty much finished except for the trim and mouldings. Added the can lights but will be waiting to add the trims and the LED cove lighting until after painting. The soffits are 3/4" MDF filled with insulation and then a light cove for the can lights and the LED strips I will be adding. I will be adding a piece of crown moulding to the lip of the soffit to cover the part of the cans that are sticking up and to hide the horizontal dispersion of the LEDS.

Still deciding on paint, but I assume I will be painting the soffits and the ceiling flat matte black. I might paint an accent color around the rim where the can lights are, but not sure. The rest of the underside of the soffit will be covered in fabric. Not sure the color on that, but black across the front for sure.

Sorry its been a while for an update. I have had a bit or progress, as the soffits are basically done except for the trim and LED cove lighting. The wood steps and riser lip as well as the faux stage have been built and the ceiling, soffits, and walls have bee painted black with the Rosco supersaturated stuff. Went ahead and painted the walls just because I didnt need that black paint left over. I will be doing a chair rail with MDF below with "windows" in the MDF for Quest treatments, and then fabric panels only from the chair rail to the underside of the soffit. Plan to go with black for the MDF / chair rail paint. Also black fabric on the walls and then I think a red stripe on the bottom of the soffit kind of like Mario's in the Cinemar thread. I didnt think I would like all this black, but after seeing the walls painted, it looks kinda cool. Bad pictures here but looks nice in person. Having the chair rail and MDF lower area with some design in it will just add to that.

My Catalyst speakers arrive Monday so I am very excited!


Anyway, on to the pictures!




Edited by hifiaudio2 - 2/13/13 at 11:04am

Got a little bit of firepower in today!

Still waiting to be able to buy my 3rd and 4th subs.

Yeah short of installing an isolation system for the projector, I tried to just keep it from touching the areas that would shake. The ceiling is its own 2x10 structure and of course the ceiling drywall is on clips and channel. For the two "trusses" that hold the projector mount, those are recessed further up than the rest of the trusses so they don't have any of the channel touching them, so the only thing they attach to is the projector. Of course they do attach around the perimeter on the band joist, but that couldn't really be avoided.

Anyone have a suggestion for door hinges? Size and brand? My door will be a solid 1 3/4" slab with two layers of 3/4" MDF screwed on. So 3 1/4" thick door (plus another 2" on the inside of the door for an acoustic panel, which will not go all the way to the sides and top of the door. Probably at least 4" or more all around.
The jamb will be 10 3/4" thick.

Thanks for the hinge info. What about the door handle / lock? What should I buy that is ready for a door that is 3 1/4" thick?

Here are some new pictures. In an effort to get a wider view, I took these with my phone camera. So, the pictures are grainy, but show a bit more of the room than my regular camera with the lens that won't let me get much of the room at all.