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Tennessean Cinema build - Page 2

post #31 of 108
Thread Starter 
Baffle wall is up. Hope to get the insulation in it and put the MDF and Linacoustic "face" on it tomorrow and Saturday.
post #32 of 108
Thread Starter 
Added insulation and a bit of the mdf face....

post #33 of 108
How will you get access to the speakers behind the screen should the need arise?

What means are you going to use to turn them on/off?

Why the MDF surrounding the center channel versus acoustc insulation?

I ask because I have interest in placing my center channel behind an AT screen?
post #34 of 108
Thread Starter 
There will be a framed screen wall in front of this one. I can take the screen out of the cutout and get back to these speakers.

I have a switch set up in my wiring closet that I can turn on and off the circuit that goes to the speakers, and the circuits that go to my subs. THe three Catalysts are on one 20A circuit and the F2 subs get one 20A circuit per two subs.

See below picture. The blank plates are so that I have the future capability of automating this on/off of the speakers with a RadioRa remote switcher. So if I get tired of manually flipping the switch I can add that in later.

The MDF is to give the wall mass I assume. There will be a final layer of Linacoustic on the face of the baffle wall.

post #35 of 108
Nice smile.gif


Nothing like the simplicity, reliability, and most importantly, the ampacity, .... of utilizing a plain ol' single pole switch!

I'm not into line voltage SSR's (solid state relays) feeding those high instantaneous current loads. so opting for simple switches is perfect. You're fine the way all the loads are divided, but there exists huge instantaneous demand possibilities. Single pole switches can pass tons, as long as all the connections are nice and snug. The sub circuits can pull 40amps off the 20amp breaker. Also, passing all that current, however briefly, thru a SSR can create subsequent choke-points and instantaneous voltage drop.

Congrats on the progress cool.gif
post #36 of 108
I got here via your link in the Seaton forum. Excellent work so far, really looking forward to seeing the end result. Good luck. smile.gif
post #37 of 108
Nice work! I'm interested in seeing how this goes, I'm thinking about utilizing Dennis' services, even though I'm a complete noob and need to study up. Thanks for the thread.
post #38 of 108
Just a FYI if you dont know which I'm sure you do, use the 3M spray in abundance to attach the linacoustic to the mdf. Does your plan only call for one layer of linacoustic by itself on top of the mdf?

Looking good! And I'm sure you are ready to unbox the Sony again!
post #39 of 108
Thread Starter 
I ended up just screwing the linacoustic to it and putting large washers on to hold it.
post #40 of 108
Yeah, that works too as that is what I did for everything behind my baffle wall.

So, holding out on some progress eh! lol
post #41 of 108
Thread Starter 
Lol yeah - just got that done tonight.

Here is the bare MDF wall and then with the Linacoustic. I need to tape some felt to the washers. Funny - I swear the room sounds more live with the Linacoustic on than it did with the bare MDF. More slap echo.

post #42 of 108
paint those white collars black!
post #43 of 108
Hi,
hoping to see more updates/pics on the build progress. Looks awesome so far!
post #44 of 108
Thread Starter 
Here is the progress so far. Got the riser (except for the steps) and screenwall built. The soffits have been started and hopefully will be mostly complete by the end of this weekend. I will also be painting the screenwall and the collars black this weekend. The riser has r19 batts in it and the top is made of three layers of OSB with Green Glue in between (3/4" , 1/2", 3/4") and will get cutouts made in the back top of it with grates/diffusors over them, making it into a large bass trap of Dennis's design. The two holes in the wall lead into the other custom bass trap area. One will simply be a hole for sound to go into so the bass trap can work, the other is for a Seaton F2 sub to sit flush in that wall (on a stand of course).



post #45 of 108
Thanks for the update, continued good luck
post #46 of 108
Thanks looking good!..cant wait for it to finish!!
post #47 of 108
Thread Starter 
We have lights! (and soffits)

So the soffits are pretty much finished except for the trim and mouldings. Added the can lights but will be waiting to add the trims and the LED cove lighting until after painting. The soffits are 3/4" MDF filled with insulation and then a light cove for the can lights and the LED strips I will be adding. I will be adding a piece of crown moulding to the lip of the soffit to cover the part of the cans that are sticking up and to hide the horizontal dispersion of the LEDS.

Still deciding on paint, but I assume I will be painting the soffits and the ceiling flat matte black. I might paint an accent color around the rim where the can lights are, but not sure. The rest of the underside of the soffit will be covered in fabric. Not sure the color on that, but black across the front for sure.


post #48 of 108
Wow, you're really flying! Soffits are looking good!
post #49 of 108
Thread Starter 
Sorry its been a while for an update. I have had a bit or progress, as the soffits are basically done except for the trim and LED cove lighting. The wood steps and riser lip as well as the faux stage have been built and the ceiling, soffits, and walls have bee painted black with the Rosco supersaturated stuff. Went ahead and painted the walls just because I didnt need that black paint left over. I will be doing a chair rail with MDF below with "windows" in the MDF for Quest treatments, and then fabric panels only from the chair rail to the underside of the soffit. Plan to go with black for the MDF / chair rail paint. Also black fabric on the walls and then I think a red stripe on the bottom of the soffit kind of like Mario's in the Cinemar thread. I didnt think I would like all this black, but after seeing the walls painted, it looks kinda cool. Bad pictures here but looks nice in person. Having the chair rail and MDF lower area with some design in it will just add to that.

My Catalyst speakers arrive Monday so I am very excited!


Anyway, on to the pictures!




Edited by hifiaudio2 - 2/13/13 at 11:04am
post #50 of 108
Thread Starter 
Got a little bit of firepower in today! smile.gif

Still waiting to be able to buy my 3rd and 4th subs.

post #51 of 108
Four Seaton F2 subs eek.gifeek.gif

I hope you have a way of really securing the projector as I fear you will be moving a lot of things in that room.... tongue.gif

I cannot wait to hear how things sound once the room is completed, four of these subs in that sized room is going to be crazy.....
post #52 of 108
....but, it shouldn't be crazy should it?
post #53 of 108
Congrats, you'll love 'em cool.gif
post #54 of 108
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ack_bk View Post

Four Seaton F2 subs eek.gifeek.gif
I hope you have a way of really securing the projector as I fear you will be moving a lot of things in that room.... tongue.gif
I cannot wait to hear how things sound once the room is completed, four of these subs in that sized room is going to be crazy.....


Yeah short of installing an isolation system for the projector, I tried to just keep it from touching the areas that would shake. The ceiling is its own 2x10 structure and of course the ceiling drywall is on clips and channel. For the two "trusses" that hold the projector mount, those are recessed further up than the rest of the trusses so they don't have any of the channel touching them, so the only thing they attach to is the projector. Of course they do attach around the perimeter on the band joist, but that couldn't really be avoided.
post #55 of 108
With that much woofage, air movement will vibrate the PJ. But not a lot rolleyes.gif
post #56 of 108
Thread Starter 
Anyone have a suggestion for door hinges? Size and brand? My door will be a solid 1 3/4" slab with two layers of 3/4" MDF screwed on. So 3 1/4" thick door (plus another 2" on the inside of the door for an acoustic panel, which will not go all the way to the sides and top of the door. Probably at least 4" or more all around.
The jamb will be 10 3/4" thick.
post #57 of 108
I have 4.5" x 8" wide throw hinges for my door which is 1 3/4" thick with one layer of 3/4" MDF. The hinges give me room to clear 2" of treatment on the inside. So if you dont need the extra throw for the inside and just need them for the thick door I would try something around the size I have.

Look here http://www.hardwaresource.com/hinges/DOOR+HINGES/Wide+Throw+Hinges+-+Swing+Clear+Hinges/Wide+Throw+Butt+Hinge%2C++Steel
post #58 of 108
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the hinge info. What about the door handle / lock? What should I buy that is ready for a door that is 3 1/4" thick?
post #59 of 108
Got a chance to pop in and see this theater in person last week. Looking very nice, really coming together. Photos don't do the space justice. Black ceiling looked nice, too.
post #60 of 108
Thread Starter 
Here are some new pictures. In an effort to get a wider view, I took these with my phone camera. So, the pictures are grainy, but show a bit more of the room than my regular camera with the lens that won't let me get much of the room at all.










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