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Tennessean Cinema build - Page 3

post #61 of 97
11/26/12 at 7:59am
Looks good. How did you end up doing the nosing (& "floor") of your proscenium?
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post #62 of 97
11/26/12 at 8:02am
Thread Starter 
Put two pieces of finger jointed pine on top of the stage and then took a small block as a spacer and traced the underside to match the curve of what I already had. Then had the pine cut to match that line. Routed the edge and curved a piece of quarter round on the underside to form the full round back under the wood.
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post #63 of 97
11/26/12 at 11:29am
check out EMTEK www.emtek.com

I know they have hardware for 3" doors, not sure about 3 1/4"
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post #64 of 97
11/26/12 at 11:36am
Thread Starter 
Found an Emtek one that works, thanks.

Guess I will go with this for the door hinges....

http://www.hardwaresource.com/hinges/DOOR+HINGES/Ball+Bearing+Butt+Hinges/Heavy+Duty+Butt+Hinge%2C+Steel%2C+8%22+x+8%22%2C+Ball+Bearing
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post #65 of 97
12/3/12 at 2:17pm
Thread Starter 
Built a nice solid custom door thanks to some help and design from GetGray. Measured sound at the door with it open at 100db and closed at ~60db. Measured with an Android app on my phone, so I am sure its not 100% exact but close enough.

Poplar frame with 1x4's
3/4" MDF for front and back
Three 1/2" layers of drywall inside with Green Glue between

And sweet massive custom hinges.
Zero international seals.

Since this door isn't really very pretty, instead of trying trim to spruce it up, I am thinking of painting the exterior silver metallic and trying to make something on the door face that looks like a vault wheel and call this theater "The Vault".







Edited by hifiaudio2 - 12/3/12 at 2:28pm
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post #66 of 97
12/6/12 at 9:13pm
Thats interesting to say the least!
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post #67 of 97
12/7/12 at 5:10am
Quote:
Originally Posted by hifiaudio2 View Post

Built a nice solid custom door thanks to some help and design from GetGray. Measured sound at the door with it open at 100db and closed at ~60db. Measured with an Android app on my phone, so I am sure its not 100% exact but close enough.
Poplar frame with 1x4's
3/4" MDF for front and back
Three 1/2" layers of drywall inside with Green Glue between
And sweet massive custom hinges.
Zero international seals.

Hey HiFi. Just came across this thread today - subscribed! Very nice work so far. It looks like you are getting very close to actually sitting down and watching a movie!

Nice job as well on the door. Do you happen to have any further construction pictures you can post? I am between your method of an overlapped poplar frame filled with MDF (drywall in your case) and Green Glue or starting with a solid core slab door and building up the layers from there. Did you go with the drywall because of its higher mass per square foot? Do you intend to route out an area for the drop-down door seal instead of surface mounting it? And do you have a split in your jamb covered by the door seals that creates a mechanical break between the inside and outside of the room to preserve decoupling / soundproofing?

I'll be following your progress closely!
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post #68 of 97
12/7/12 at 6:17am
Thread Starter 
I actually bought a solid core door at Lowe's first, but then after some discussion took it back as we feared the weak interior of the door wouldn't be substantial enough to hold onto the hinges. Also, the hinges I found that I liked had a screw pattern that wouldn't fit over the area of the door I would want them to, so building out a door with a nice large poplar surface area to screw to was a better option.

I just screwed the drop down seal to the back and surface mounted it. Didn't try to mortise anything into the door.

I didn't split the jamb, but I am quite happy with the results I got based on my sound measurements.

Sorry, those are all of the pictures I took.
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post #69 of 97
12/7/12 at 6:49am
Quote:
Originally Posted by hifiaudio2 View Post

Since this door isn't really very pretty, instead of trying trim to spruce it up, I am thinking of painting the exterior silver metallic and trying to make something on the door face that looks like a vault wheel and call this theater "The Vault".

I saw someone do this on a vid posted on youtube - thought you may like it for 'The Vault'. I have no idea if it'll work on that thick of a door, but it'll look cool. cool.gif


link


or


link
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post #70 of 97
12/7/12 at 7:05am
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

I am between your method of an overlapped poplar frame filled with MDF (drywall in your case) and Green Glue or starting with a solid core slab door and building up the layers from there. Did you go with the drywall because of its higher mass per square foot?
Typical "solid code" flush birch or luan doors have pretty low quality interiors. Best case is low density particle board. Depending on where you are, you can get higher end solid core doors, but it's usually difficult without moving to a commercial fire rated door. Those slabs are listed as having gypsum interiors. But even those doors don't usually have anything more than pine 1x2 frames with some possible extra blocking around the door handle area. By using a high end poplar 1x4 (minimum) frame you end up with a more substantial place to attach hinges for these heavy doors, and you can fill the core with select materials of your choice, including scrap drywall from your project, or MDF. Sheath with MDF, or if it's a decorative door maybe a layer of vernier plywood.

And if you build one like this, you better be sure you have a BEEFY jamb. One that can take teh pull on the top hinge ans well as the push in on the bottom hinge. Otherwise in a few months your strike wont' line up anymore.
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post #71 of 97
12/7/12 at 11:44am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by UGAd13 View Post

I saw someone do this on a vid posted on youtube - thought you may like it for 'The Vault'. I have no idea if it'll work on that thick of a door, but it'll look cool. cool.gif

link

Yeah that is pretty cool. Amazon had another one to go with it with a combination lock on the deadbolt. These two together might be pretty sweet looking if I can find an extension kit for them.

http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-DSRN1015-Nightwatch-Combination/dp/B00164DZO2/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y
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post #72 of 97
12/7/12 at 1:04pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by hifiaudio2 View Post

Yeah that is pretty cool. Amazon had another one to go with it with a combination lock on the deadbolt. These two together might be pretty sweet looking if I can find an extension kit for them.
http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-DSRN1015-Nightwatch-Combination/dp/B00164DZO2/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y

Now THAT would be rad together.

googled "vault door home" and found this:
Cyborg Theater Inspired by Terminator

it's fun playing with others $...
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post #73 of 97
12/8/12 at 1:19pm
Thread Starter 
That door is very cool. I was already thinking about getting some solid sheets of stainless steel and putting it on the door front then "wrapping" it around the edges if I can find some thin, reasonably pliable sheets. That trim around the door is cool as well.
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post #74 of 97
12/8/12 at 1:42pm
You guys have it TOTALLY wrong!!! A biometric fingerprint lock is what you need at a minimum...

But a Panasonic BM-ET330 Retinal Scan door lock system is really the way to go! biggrin.gif

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post #75 of 97
12/13/12 at 4:59am
Any updates?
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post #76 of 97
12/13/12 at 7:37am
Thread Starter 
Nothing much to report. I have the fabric track up and ready to install, but am waiting on my Quest treatments to come in. Hopefully soon! They were ordered a couple of weeks ago.

Carpet installation is scheduled for the 21st of December.
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post #77 of 97
12/14/12 at 7:51pm
Looking good!
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post #78 of 97
12/21/12 at 6:44am
On Cinemars thread you posted that you furred out your lower MDF panels to let the Acoustic lay flush on the face. Did you put anything behind the MDF or is it MDF air gap then drywall (besides furring strips)? I like how you have lower panels but are still incorparatin some acoustic treatments.
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post #79 of 97
12/21/12 at 6:56am
Thread Starter 
I have 6pcf 2 inch fiberglass behind the MDF all around the room. Then "windows" are cut and covered with fabric.
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post #80 of 97
12/21/12 at 7:27am
Would the Fiberglass behind the MDF have any effect on controlling the sound besides where the "Windows" where cut?
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post #81 of 97
12/21/12 at 7:43am
Thread Starter 
Maybe a little. Or maybe it just helps keep the space there from resonating. Either way, I had to buy more fiberglass than I needed, so I figured I would just fill in that space.
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post #82 of 97
12/26/12 at 12:47pm
Thread Starter 
I have a new full frame camera with a 24mm lens on its way soon so the pictures should improve a bit. I have had to resort to my phone's camera lately because my "good" camera didn't have a wide enough angle lens. This should solve that.
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post #83 of 97
1/4/13 at 1:20pm
Thread Starter 
Snapped a couple of quick pics with the wider lens. Fabric is on two of the three walls. Treatments are all up except for the door panel. The door will also be painted black.

I used a long exposure to get these. I don't have anywhere near this kind of light output in the room naturally.




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post #84 of 97
1/4/13 at 1:35pm
Wow. Looking good!
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post #85 of 97
1/4/13 at 2:12pm
Thread Starter 
One thing I can say I am really liking are the "in soffit" Triad LCR surrounds that Dennis suggested. So far with surround music they totally disappear but have GREAT ambiance. If I am facing the screen I hear things all around, but if I turn my head to look at where I know the speaker is, I no longer hear anything coming from it. Not localized or pointed out at all, yet not a diffuse dipole. Very cool.
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post #86 of 97
1/4/13 at 5:46pm
Much better than the previous carpet choice.
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post #87 of 97
1/4/13 at 6:20pm
Looks great!
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post #88 of 97
1/31/13 at 2:09pm
Thread Starter 
Added a couple more pictures showing the room and the second Seaton F2 in the side alcove. I will be putting the final side of Fr701 black GOM fabric up soon.


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post #89 of 97
1/31/13 at 2:18pm
Back here and getting caught up.... love the room so far! Awesome!

BTW, What lights do you have in the soffit?
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post #90 of 97
1/31/13 at 2:26pm
Thread Starter 
These cans:

http://www.usalight.com/4-Miniature-Non-IC-Remodel-Recessed-Housing-p/us-104rat.htm

These trims:

http://www.usalight.com/4-Stepped-Baffle-Trim-Regressed-p/b401p-bk.htm

and these lights:

http://www.amazon.com/Sylvania-14502-Narrow-Degree-50PAR20/dp/B0076AVGDC/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1347988721&sr=8-9&keywords=50par20+narrow+flood

Very happy with all of them.

The cans do not rattle at all, which is nice, as that would be a big annoyance to diagnose and fix.
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