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Best way to pull wire through PVC

post #1 of 20
Thread Starter 
In my new house I have a 40 ft pvc pipe in the finished ceiling that the previous owner has component/electrical/cat5 cable going to a ceiling projector in another room.

I need to run a HDMI cable through this pipe.

I can pull the small cat5 and get some give....but the component is thick and probably twisted around itself on the run so it doesnt pull very well from one end of the PVC pipe.

I was thinking about taping a new cat5 and HDMI to the end of the existing cat5 and coating it with food grade lubricant and just pulling as best as I can? Just hoping it doesnt get hung up half way around the component cable.

Seem ok or is there a better way/lubricant to get through the existing pipe? There is not a whole lot of extra room in it.
post #2 of 20
first off they sell cable pulling lubricant, second I would pull out the component since you are going HDMI, takes up way too much room. If there is an electrical cable Romex or and extension cord you should really thing about installing a separate path for the electrical. I'm surprised that the component cable didn't pick up some interference over a 40 ft run,
post #3 of 20
You're on the right path, but definitely use a cable lubricant (Ideal's Yellow 77 is stocked at Home Depot, for example), not an organic product - you don't something that could/will go rancid...

But if this is just to add HDMI, may be much, much easier to use an HDBaseT solution that can add HDMI while keeping Ethernet in place (assuming that's what the cat5 is doing now). $220 at Monoprice:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

I just pointed a friend toward this one, and he installed it this week, works like a champ!

Jeff
post #4 of 20
Just something that occurred to me: if you can pull all the old wires out, you could use them to feed in the pull cord, and then restart using the pull cord to pull only the wires you need (not the component). That way you can get rid of the the extras and ensure that they aren't twisted or anything. That said, these other guys probably have better solutions; get rid of the high voltage or use existing cabling.

Fred
post #5 of 20
You are definitely going to want to pull out that high voltage because that is going to really mess up the HDMI signal, like someone else said, I am surprised any of your video really worked.

If it was me Id tie a pull string to the end of one and yank them all out and start over. Oh and personally I always throw in a cat5 or 2 with the others because you can always find a good use for that... but thats just me...
post #6 of 20
Glad this came up. Does anyone use PVC as conduit in their theater? I was thinking of using 1 1/2" possibly 2" PVC to act as my conduit in my soffits with small access panels hidden in columns

I know a lot of people use the blue tubing from HD/Lowes but it seems pretty small and IIRC it wasn't smooth on the inside so fish tape could possibly get snagged
post #7 of 20
I have two 2" lines running from my equipment room to my HVAC closet (for getting cables into my equipment room). I have not pulled any cable through it yet so I can't help you out with that part.




Now thinking that I may need to add another line.
post #8 of 20
I also have two 2" PVC lines running to my equipment closet. I'll know in the next few days if that was enough.
post #9 of 20
What the hell are you guys running that is taking up 2 - 2" PVC?

All I could think of was speaker wire, CAT5/6, and video for the projector.
post #10 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

You're on the right path, but definitely use a cable lubricant (Ideal's Yellow 77 is stocked at Home Depot, for example), not an organic product - you don't something that could/will go rancid...

But if this is just to add HDMI, may be much, much easier to use an HDBaseT solution that can add HDMI while keeping Ethernet in place (assuming that's what the cat5 is doing now). $220 at Monoprice:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

I just pointed a friend toward this one, and he installed it this week, works like a champ!

Jeff

+1, another vote for Ideal's Yellow number 77, good stuff.
post #11 of 20
+1 on the cable lubricant. I laid a 75' underground conduit from house to detached garage where my HT is - didn't use lubricant - pulled two coax and an ethernet cable through it - on the second coax, it bound up, and couldn't be moved either direction. Fortunately, it was pulled far enough, and everything worked, but could have been a real downer.
post #12 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

I know a lot of people use the blue tubing from HD/Lowes but it seems pretty small and IIRC it wasn't smooth on the inside so fish tape could possibly get snagged

HD/Lowes seems to stock only the smaller sizes, but larger (1", 1-1/2") sizes are available from many electrical supply houses. Search the net for Carlon Resi-gard (not cheap, if you can get a local source of anything similar, it'll do - but the Carlon stuff is very nice to work with).

You shouldn't need fish tape for flex conduit. Pull string is pre-installed, and regardless, string tied to some foam rubber and sucked through with a shop vac is way easier than fishing...

Jeff
post #13 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

What the hell are you guys running that is taking up 2 - 2" PVC?

All I could think of was speaker wire, CAT5/6, and video for the projector.

My (2) 2" runs into the equipment room are for non-theater related runs (I will have a separate hole for theater wiring to come through). I plan to have all equipment for the entire house in this room so I will have cabling from all over the house needing access to it.

I found the 1" blue smurf tube at Menards. Only big box store that I could find something other than 1/2" or 3/4".
post #14 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

HD/Lowes seems to stock only the smaller sizes, but larger (1", 1-1/2") sizes are available from many electrical supply houses. Search the net for Carlon Resi-gard (not cheap, if you can get a local source of anything similar, it'll do - but the Carlon stuff is very nice to work with).

You shouldn't need fish tape for flex conduit. Pull string is pre-installed, and regardless, string tied to some foam rubber and sucked through with a shop vac is way easier than fishing...

Jeff

2" PVC is about half the price of 2" Carlon 2" Carlon Raceway

With PVC you can put in T's at drop locations, how do you do that with the Carlon? Cut openings?

I can see Carlon being nice for install as you don't have to put sweeps and cut everything to the right size
post #15 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by vanice View Post

My (2) 2" runs into the equipment room are for non-theater related runs (I will have a separate hole for theater wiring to come through). I plan to have all equipment for the entire house in this room so I will have cabling from all over the house needing access to it.

I found the 1" blue smurf tube at Menards. Only big box store that I could find something other than 1/2" or 3/4".

How was fishing wire through the PVC?
post #16 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

How was fishing wire through the PVC?

I haven't gotten that far yet unfortunately. I don't anticipate it being too difficult because my run is very short (approx 6' long over the entrance to my theater). I have found that working with the smurf tube is harder than working with the PVC. That smurf tube never wants to straighten out and good luck trying to get it to bend the opposite way it was coiled up. I have put in two runs with it so far and don't really care for it. Luckily I only have a couple more short runs with it.
post #17 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by vanice View Post

I haven't gotten that far yet unfortunately. I don't anticipate it being too difficult because my run is very short (approx 6' long over the entrance to my theater). I have found that working with the smurf tube is harder than working with the PVC. That smurf tube never wants to straighten out and good luck trying to get it to bend the opposite way it was coiled up. I have put in two runs with it so far and don't really care for it. Luckily I only have a couple more short runs with it.

Thanks

I think I'll go the PVC route as it is quite a bit less. I'm a bit tired of white PVC, maybe I'll give the gray a shot for this I think gray is a little bit less expensive

Yes I know gray is electrical and white is plumbing
post #18 of 20
Flexible conduit is made of PVC.

The ridges allow for flexibility, and to reduce surface area (and reduce surface tension - cables don't bind as easily).

Try to avoid pulling cable through conduit that has an existing cable. You may have to remove the existing cables out, and then pull all together.
post #19 of 20
I have used fiberglass rods for all of my conduit pulls, though I have no sharp bends.
post #20 of 20
Recently ran all my wires through 2" conduit and smurf tube. One of my 2" runs is about 15' and is for a touch screen jukebox on the wall. This required vga, usb, rca and serial. There was a little bit of a learning curve to get all these wires through the 2" but I eventually got it. I found using a shop vac to suck mason's string through the run was the way to go. I attached a crumbled up piece of aluminum foil on the end of the string and it was easy to get it through. For the jukebox runs I needed to stagger the cable ends so they weren't as thick as if they were all right next to each other. I taped them all together in a line and attached to the masons string and pulled right through. I ran speaker wire, Cat6 and HDMI/media cables with the same method and it worked fine.
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