or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › The Official Panasonic VT50 Settings Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The Official Panasonic VT50 Settings Thread - Page 56

post #1651 of 2130
im using the DVE (digital Video essentials) Hd basics calibration disc with the red, blue, and green filters that came with it. What settings would I tamper with to get the colors to match right using the color filters and the color pattern provided by the disc, would I have to tamper with the pro settings?
post #1652 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by aguy1222 View Post

im using the DVE (digital Video essentials) Hd basics calibration disc with the red, blue, and green filters that came with it. What settings would I tamper with to get the colors to match right using the color filters and the color pattern provided by the disc, would I have to tamper with the pro settings?

If you don't have a meter you shouldn't mess with anything other than color and tint controls.
post #1653 of 2130
Ive seen a few issues with 96hz, even 60hz. Im starting to think just setting the Oppo 103 to 1080p/60 out to the tv might be the best bet. There is some interpolation or something that goes on with the Panasonics in 60hz mode, its doing a little more mojo than 2:3 pulldown IMO. That also results in some artifacts.

As a baseline, you pretty much know the Oppo is gonna output 1080p/60 accurately.
post #1654 of 2130
As far as calibrating gray scale in thx cinema, what patterns are you guys having best luck with? I currently have the GCD disc and was thinking the 10% sized windows would be a good choice.
post #1655 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgtfreek View Post

Ive seen a few issues with 96hz, even 60hz. Im starting to think just setting the Oppo 103 to 1080p/60 out to the tv might be the best bet. There is some interpolation or something that goes on with the Panasonics in 60hz mode, its doing a little more mojo than 2:3 pulldown IMO. That also results in some artifacts.

As a baseline, you pretty much know the Oppo is gonna output 1080p/60 accurately.

If you have a good calibration and mainly use Bly Ray's, you may just want to try source direct and also see what you like best 4:2:2 or 4:4:4.
If you use 4:4:4 you may also want to turn on pure direct 1080p on your Panasonic.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgtfreek View Post

As far as calibrating gray scale in thx cinema, what patterns are you guys having best luck with? I currently have the GCD disc and was thinking the 10% sized windows would be a good choice.

imo, use a small window like about 2% and warm your Plasma up for at-least 3 hours before calibrating.
There is no way that I know of to completely tame APL, but for me this works the best.

ss
post #1656 of 2130
I guess I could use Chad's disc, he has some 5%'ers.
post #1657 of 2130
Question. If I enable ISF Day and Night, can I calibrate them and still calibrate Custom as a seperate 3rd mode? Or, once they are activated they take place the of custom mode?
post #1658 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgtfreek View Post

Question. If I enable ISF Day and Night, can I calibrate them and still calibrate Custom as a seperate 3rd mode? Or, once they are activated they take place the of custom mode?
You can check with turbe for an expert answer, but I've always understood ISF Day and Night to be two additional modes that can be calibrated any way you choose. They don't replace any other mode, and that they have no actual relationship with "Day" or "Night"..
post #1659 of 2130
OK, thanks. I may email him. It would be cool to calibrate those two and have them locked, while having one to "play" with smile.gif
post #1660 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgtfreek View Post

Question. If I enable ISF Day and Night, can I calibrate them and still calibrate Custom as a seperate 3rd mode? Or, once they are activated they take place the of custom mode?

Yes, that can be done. So I have ISF day, ISF night, Custom, and 3D calibrations on the VT50. So Custom mode is entirely separate.
post #1661 of 2130
Cool.
post #1662 of 2130
I've got maybe a hundred hours on the set. Is it ok to use for example DNice's custom settings or should I wait until I have a few more hours on the set before I mess around with the custom settings? Thanks.
post #1663 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by casey 2823 View Post

I've got maybe a hundred hours on the set. Is it ok to use for example DNice's custom settings or should I wait until I have a few more hours on the set before I mess around with the custom settings? Thanks.
There is no reason to wait. If you followed D-Nice's instructions you'll be as close as possible to the results that he got on your display. If you didn't follow them, then you will be further away from his results. Either way you're fine.

If you want his exact results, then you would need to hire him to do a calibration for you. wink.gif
post #1664 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgtfreek View Post

OK, thanks. I may email him. It would be cool to calibrate those two and have them locked, while having one to "play" with smile.gif

Definitely worth it for that. Also one click XML imports from others' settings ain't too shabby either wink.gif
post #1665 of 2130
So on the calibration of grayscale and gamma, what Im getting from reading Chad's and other's posts, its best to use 5% or close to it non APL patterns. I burnt his disc which actually has 4% patterns and plan on using those. What about color. I know THX Cinema has very accurate color when you take advanced measurements (25%, 50%, 75%, 100%), but how do you work the CMS in Custom/ISF? Do you calibrate to 100 saturation/75 luminance, or some other combo, to get them all in line. Just to give you an example of what I mean, this is the chart from my GT30 in THX mode (measured by Gregg Loewen), and the VT50 in THX cinema is very close. How would I work this in custom?

post #1666 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgtfreek View Post

OK, thanks. I may email him. It would be cool to calibrate those two and have them locked, while having one to "play" with smile.gif

That's how it works, once you've activated ISF night & day you will still have the ability to play around with Custom or any of the other preloaded settings.


Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk
post #1667 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

There is no reason to wait. If you followed D-Nice's instructions you'll be as close as possible to the results that he got on your display. If you didn't follow them, then you will be further away from his results. Either way you're fine.

If you want his exact results, then you would need to hire him to do a calibration for you. wink.gif

Thanks htwaits. I didn't do his slides so I probably won't be anywhere close to his results but it's good to know I can at least start experimenting with the custom settings.
post #1668 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by casey 2823 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

There is no reason to wait. If you followed D-Nice's instructions you'll be as close as possible to the results that he got on your display. If you didn't follow them, then you will be further away from his results. Either way you're fine.

If you want his exact results, then you would need to hire him to do a calibration for you. wink.gif

Thanks htwaits. I didn't do his slides so I probably won't be anywhere close to his results but it's good to know I can at least start experimenting with the custom settings.
Enjoy. smile.gif
post #1669 of 2130
Thanks to the help from several folks on here via posts and PM's, here is my first run. 6.5% windows, Oppo 103 as generator, D3 Pro/Chromapure with plasma profile. Spent about 2.5 hours to get here, decided to go ahead and get some practice before my I1 Pro 2 and i1 Display OEM show up.

dE avg was under 1.0, gamma target was 2.25. Custom mode, Normal color temp, 2.4 gamma setting. 38fl of light output is a nice change from THX cinema, which was about 30 with same pattern.







post #1670 of 2130
Oh, and BTW, I put D-Nice's settings in and the result was not bad. dE avg was around 8, blue and red equally high so it looked nice, over 40fL (6.5% window), flat 2.25 gamma.

I also tested 6.5% windows vs 10%, and there was really very little difference, Slight grayscale changes, slightly lower light output.
post #1671 of 2130
I tried D-Nice's settings and they actually produce a better visual than the guy that did my calibration.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgtfreek View Post

Oh, and BTW, I put D-Nice's settings in and the result was not bad. dE avg was around 8, blue and red equally high so it looked nice, over 40fL (6.5% window), flat 2.25 gamma.

I also tested 6.5% windows vs 10%, and there was really very little difference, Slight grayscale changes, slightly lower light output.
post #1672 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by stixx View Post

I tried D-Nice's settings and they actually produce a better visual than the guy that did my calibration.

Ouch...

It took a lot of studying on here to get the right way to attack this, going in blind would make the results poor IMO. This set looks real good right now, just watchin HDTV.
post #1673 of 2130
gadgetfreak

Are you using 75% saturation and 75% intensity?
post #1674 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimP View Post

gadgetfreak

Are you using 75% saturation and 75% intensity?

First chart was 75% luminance and 100% saturation. Advanced cms chart was 75% luminance and 25,50 and 75% saturation.

I know one recommendation was 75% luminance and 75% saturation, but the color seems to track pretty good in that second chart. The dE's for my
Primaries and secondaries were all under 1.0.
post #1675 of 2130
75% saturation is a better representation of real content. ~25-75% saturations for red, yellow, green and blue in particular are slightly over-saturated. But I wouldn't worry too much about it.
post #1676 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by rahzel View Post

75% saturation is a better representation of real content. ~25-75% saturations for red, yellow, green and blue in particular are slightly over-saturated. But I wouldn't worry too much about it.

Ii actually thought is was 100 s/75 l that was the standard choice. I figured 75/75 was a quirk of this display.
post #1677 of 2130
I just spent a good bit if time looking at gamut charts. I do see now what calibrating to 75/75 does. If you take my chart for example, and consider adjusting to 75 saturation and not 100.

All my 100 points are perfect, the majority of the 25-75 points are to far away from the center. If I adjust to 75 which means moving them inward, it should make 25-75 much tighter and only throw the out 100 measurements off a little. Better overall compromise.
post #1678 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgtfreek View Post

I just spent a good bit if time looking at gamut charts. I do see now what calibrating to 75/75 does. If you take my chart for example, and consider adjusting to 75 saturation and not 100.

All my 100 points are perfect, the majority of the 25-75 points are to far away from the center. If I adjust to 75 which means moving them inward, it should make 25-75 much tighter and only throw the out 100 measurements off a little. Better overall compromise.
Right. Color saturation is the distance from white. Your 100% saturation points were spot on, but some of the 25-75% saturation points were slightly over-saturated (further from white). Ideally if your 100% saturations are on point, the rest should follow, but that appears not to be the case. So with that said, it's better to focus on lower saturation points because they're a better representation of real world content. Doing this will probably cause your 100% saturations to be slightly under-saturated (or closer to white). I would do as you said and try to find a compromise; or just do what looks more pleasing to your eyes. It shouldn't matter much either way.
Edited by rahzel - 4/12/13 at 4:27pm
post #1679 of 2130
Cool, that's what I gathered. I'll be calibrating again Sunday night if my stuff arrives, so I'll post results fit 100% saturation vs 75%
post #1680 of 2130
Hi guys

Sorry to be another pestering noobie.

Heres the story.

I picked up the VT50 65 inch last Saturday.

It has been running on THX Cinema for 160 hours non stop on regular HBO HD content without bars or logos.

I now want to calibrate the TV. And I am wondering what calibration settings do you suggest?

Should I definitely get the calibration DVD and use it also? (was thinking of getting the new Spears & Munsil)

The watching room itself is quite dark, not much light.

Open to suggestions........

I live in Boston so I was quoted $300 to have it professionally calibrated. Wondering if this should be done and just forget the home calibration and DVD or is it definitely worth calibrating from a professional?
Is the difference of a professional calibration so good that its basically necessary...

Any pointers would be a great help
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Plasma Flat Panel Displays
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › The Official Panasonic VT50 Settings Thread