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The Official Panasonic VT50 Settings Thread - Page 7

post #181 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tempest261 View Post

What was the eventual outcome of this?

Still open with Panasonic. When I hear something worth repeating I'll post here.
post #182 of 2130
From reviewing the thread, it appears that I may not be the only one who cannot get the contrast right using the Disney WOW Blu-ray (i.e., can't quite get the right graphics to disappear even with contrast at 100). What does that mean essentially? That while blacks are spectactular, it would take a fair amount of more work (i.e. a professional calibration) to get whites to appear much more closer to what they should?
post #183 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dukecat View Post

From reviewing the thread, it appears that I may not be the only one who cannot get the contrast right using the Disney WOW Blu-ray (i.e., can't quite get the right graphics to disappear even with contrast at 100). What does that mean essentially? That while blacks are spectactular, it would take a fair amount of more work (i.e. a professional calibration) to get whites to appear much more closer to what they should?

White can be calibrated to D65 with no problem
post #184 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by wmwilker View Post

White can be calibrated to D65 with no problem

He might be referring to clipped whites.
post #185 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by billharris4 View Post

Guys, is anyone using the Disney WOW disc for basic calibration? I did some basic adjustments last night, and everything went well except for the advanced contrast test, which uses a white checkerboard pattern (also star patterns above and below). Supposedly, you adjust the contrast so that the elements labeled "ideal white" in the pattern look like white snow. But it seemed like no matter how I changed the contrast, the look of that test pattern didn't really change. Is anyone else having better luck with this? Thanks very much.

This. I couldn't get "ideal white" - even with contrast set at 100 - without at least one star / portion of the checkerboard that should have blended into the background remaining rather visible. I am just not sure what it means in terms of the TV's video performance generally and/or my admittedly rudimentary calibration skills and resources. I am definitely a newbie when it comes to this and will probably get it professionally calibrated. I am just working on making a few tweaks here and there in the interim.
post #186 of 2130
If I were to speculate, there is probably a lot more to calibrating this display than meets the eye.

It makes it particularly difficult for beginners.
post #187 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimP View Post

If I were to speculate, there is probably a lot more to calibrating this display than meets the eye.
It makes it particularly difficult for beginners.

I definitely agree with you there. It is just odd that no one can seem to get contrast set correctly using the Disney WoW Blu-ray. To get it "right," (i.e., all the stars / checkerboard patterns that are supposed to be visible are visible and those that are not should blend in with the background), I would need to go probably up to 105-110 on the contrast meter (which obviously is not an option).
post #188 of 2130
THX modes limit the adjustability of some settings, probably to try to keep it within range of their standards.

I don't have the Disney WoW disc so I'm not 100% sure. Are you sure you're supposed to adjust contrast so certain stars blend into the background, or do they tell you to set contrast to that point, then back down a bit? Seems to me that there's video white levels and above white levels shown as stars and you should set contrast so that there's no clipping of white detail and all of the stars should be visible. If that's the case, then it doesn't really matter if all of the stars are visible.

Really, contrast should be set to a comfortable level so that you don't experience eye strain in your room's lighting conditions. You can go as high as you want as long as:

1) You don't see any white detail being clipped (which you're able to check with a white clipping pattern).
2) You don't see any shift in color/grayscale (usually grays turn to pink or orange).

The advanced Contrast pattern you guys are talking about seems to be a white clipping pattern.
post #189 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by rahzel View Post

Are you sure you're supposed to adjust contrast so certain stars blend into the background, or do they tell you to set contrast to that point, then back down a bit?

You are correct. It's a white clipping pattern. Certain stars are supposed to be invisible, certain stars are supposed to be visible and for the area in between (the "ideal white"), the star is supposed to be "on the verge" of being visible. I cannot set the contrast high enough to make invisible the last star that is (at least per the Disney WoW Blu-ray) supposed to be invisible.
post #190 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dukecat View Post

You are correct. It's a white clipping pattern. Certain stars are supposed to be invisible, certain stars are supposed to be visible and for the area in between (the "ideal white"), the star is supposed to be "on the verge" of being visible. I cannot set the contrast high enough to make invisible the last star that is (at least per the Disney WoW Blu-ray) supposed to be invisible.

I can get the +3, 4, & 5 to disappear with the Contrast at 100.
post #191 of 2130
My most recent settings:

*These are not intended as professional calibrated settings.

Picture mode Custom
Contrast 82
Brightness 54
Color 50
Tint 0
Sharpness 14
Color Temp Warm 1 (or Normal) * This is a deviation from the norm. A true calibration will be Warm 2. I can't tolerate Warm 2 due to the hit to whites.
Cats Off
Video NR Off

Aspect adjustments submenu
Screen format: Full
HD size: Size 2 (Size 1 will perform a 95% overscan. Can be good to get rid of scan lines at top of screen for sat/cable content)
H size: [grayed out]
Zoom adjustments: [grayed out]
Advanced Picture:
3D Y/C filter: Off [grayed out]
Color matrix: HD [grayed out]
These next two settings may or may not help poor content and should have little to no effect on quality content.
Block NR: Off
Mosquito NR: Off
Motion smoother:
Weak or Off: For most content. Pans will still be messy but no SOE
Medium or High: Clean Pans but with SOE. Great for animated content

1080p pure direct: On
Black level: Light
3:2 pulldown: On
24p Direct in: 60Hz * 60Hz seems to function as 96Hz does without introducing artifacts that may or may not be detected. But 96hz mode does provide slightly better blacks. So use 96hz if you do not perceive artifacts.

Pro Settings:
Color space: Normal
W/B high R: -1
W/B high G: 0
W/B high B: 0
W/B low R: 0
W/B low G: -4
W/B low B: -1

W/B detail adjustment menu: (listed as Red, Green and Blue gain, respectively)
100 IRE: -1, 0, -1
90 IRE: -2, 0, +1
80 IRE: 0, +1, -1
70 IRE: 0, 0, 0
60 IRE: 0, 0, +1
50 IRE: +1, +2, +1
40 IRE: 0, 0, -1
30 IRE: +1, -1, 0
20 IRE: +2, -0, +1
10 IRE: -1, -0, +1

Red hue: 0
Green hue: +4
Blue hue: 0
Red Saturation: -5
Green Saturation: -4
Blue Saturation: 0

Color detail adjustment menu:
Yellow hue: 0
Cyan hue: 0
Magenta hue: 0
Yellow saturation: -2
Cyan saturation: 0
Magenta saturation: 0
Red luminance: 0
Green luminance: 0
Blue luminance: 0
Yellow luminance: 0
Cyan luminance: 0
Magenta luminance: 0

Black Extension 0
Gamma adjustment 2.4
Panel Brightness Mid
Contour Emphasis Off
AGC Off

Gamma Detail Adjustment Menu
100 IRE Gain: 0
90 IRE Gain: 0
80 IRE Gain: 0
70 IRE Gain: 0
60 IRE Gain: 0
50 IRE Gain: +3
40 IRE Gain: 0
30 IRE Gain: 0
20 IRE Gain: -1
10 IRE Gain: 0
Edited by TopperMcFly - 7/11/12 at 5:57am
post #192 of 2130
Pro calibrators:

Are you continuing to check the CMS Luminance controls on new VT50's that you encounter in the field? I'm wondering if it's a hardware/board issue (unrepairable by FW), and they may quietly sneak out a revision. I noticed that there are no revision numbers on the TV (at least I can't find any), so any revisions would probably be detected only by serial number frown.gif.

The reason I ask is that my VT50 panel replacement via Panasonic has been somewhat of a disaster. It's been weeks since I've had a TV, and I might be looking at a full refund. Probably going to re-buy the VT50 (through Amazon this time)... but part of me is still irked about the broken luminance controls.
post #193 of 2130
Topper, nice work on the settings -- IMO, your settings' fleshtones are more naturalistic than Katzmaier's. Now, it may be videophile sacrilege, but I switched the gamma to 2.2, and the blacks are still super-dark but with more shadow detail. So, until I get the thing pro calibrated, my eyes are happy. Many thanks!!
post #194 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by IronManFan View Post

Topper, nice work on the settings -- IMO, your settings' fleshtones are more naturalistic than Katzmaier's. Now, it may be videophile sacrilege, but I switched the gamma to 2.2, and the blacks are still super-dark but with more shadow detail. So, until I get the thing pro calibrated, my eyes are happy. Many thanks!!

Thanks so much for the feedback. That is quite the compliment. Its all about what pleases your eyes. I tend to do unorthodox things like using Warm1. Thanks again. smile.gif
post #195 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by TopperMcFly View Post

My most recent settings:
*These are not intended as professional calibrated settings.
Picture mode Custom
Contrast 82
Brightness 54
Color 50
Tint 0
Sharpness 14
Color Temp Warm 1 (or Normal) * This is a deviation from the norm. A true calibration will be Warm 2. I can't tolerate Warm 2 due to the hit to whites.
Cats Off
Video NR Off
Aspect adjustments submenu
Screen format: Full
HD size: Size 2 (Size 1 will perform a 95% overscan. Can be good to get rid of scan lines at top of screen for sat/cable content)
H size: [grayed out]
Zoom adjustments: [grayed out]
Advanced Picture:
3D Y/C filter: Off [grayed out]
Color matrix: HD [grayed out]
These next two settings may or may not help poor content and should have little to no effect on quality content.
Block NR: Off
Mosquito NR: Off
Motion smoother:
Weak or Off: For most content. Pans will still be messy but no SOE
Medium or High: Clean Pans but with SOE. Great for animated content
1080p pure direct: On
Black level: Light
3:2 pulldown: On
24p Direct in: 60Hz * 60Hz seems to function as 96Hz does without introducing artifacts that may or may not be detected. But 96hz mode does provide slightly better blacks. So use 96hz if you do not perceive artifacts.
Pro Settings:
Color space: Normal
W/B high R: -1
W/B high G: 0
W/B high B: 0
W/B low R: 0
W/B low G: -4
W/B low B: -1
W/B detail adjustment menu: (listed as Red, Green and Blue gain, respectively)
100 IRE: -1, 0, -1
90 IRE: -2, 0, +1
80 IRE: 0, +1, -1
70 IRE: 0, 0, 0
60 IRE: 0, 0, +1
50 IRE: +1, +2, +1
40 IRE: 0, 0, -1
30 IRE: +1, -1, 0
20 IRE: +2, -0, +1
10 IRE: -1, -0, +1
Red hue: 0
Green hue: +4
Blue hue: 0
Red Saturation: -5
Green Saturation: -4
Blue Saturation: 0
Color detail adjustment menu:
Yellow hue: 0
Cyan hue: 0
Magenta hue: 0
Yellow saturation: -2
Cyan saturation: 0
Magenta saturation: 0
Red luminance: 0
Green luminance: 0
Blue luminance: 0
Yellow luminance: 0
Cyan luminance: 0
Magenta luminance: 0
Black Extension 0
Gamma adjustment 2.4
Panel Brightness Mid
Contour Emphasis Off
AGC Off
Gamma Detail Adjustment Menu
100 IRE Gain: 0
90 IRE Gain: 0
80 IRE Gain: 0
70 IRE Gain: 0
60 IRE Gain: 0
50 IRE Gain: +3
40 IRE Gain: 0
30 IRE Gain: 0
20 IRE Gain: -1
10 IRE Gain: 0

I am using these settings on my 65VT50 that has had no prep and the image is just great. It is what I would hope for from a full calibration. Thanks so much for posting these. I had previously used the CNET settings and these are much better in flesh tones and overall "rightness" to the picture.
post #196 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by stretch7 

I am using these settings on my 65VT50 that has had no prep and the image is just great. It is what I would hope for from a full calibration. Thanks so much for posting these. I had previously used the CNET settings and these are much better in flesh tones and overall "rightness" to the picture.

Thank you very much. Very happy they are working out for people.
post #197 of 2130
Thanks a lot TopperMcFly. I just used your settings on my new 65VT50 as well and the image looks awesome. I have three questions:
1. Is it safe to run have these settings on a brand new TV?
2. I noticed that the picture sharpness is a bit weak but maybe that will just settle down with the burn-in?
3. Gamma adjustment had an option called S-curve and it looked very rich - is that not recommended? I have it at 2.2
post #198 of 2130
usr2,

Regarding sharpness, you might want to try different sharpness levels to see if one suits you better than another.

I stayed with the default of 50.
post #199 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by usr2 View Post

Thanks a lot TopperMcFly. I just used your settings on my new 65VT50 as well and the image looks awesome. I have three questions:
1. Is it safe to run have these settings on a brand new TV?
2. I noticed that the picture sharpness is a bit weak but maybe that will just settle down with the burn-in?
3. Gamma adjustment had an option called S-curve and it looked very rich - is that not recommended? I have it at 2.2

I would probably dial the contrast down a bit for the first 100 hours or so. Or just be sure to watch full screen content without logos.

I noticed my picture get quite a bit better after about a week or so

S-curve is not a good idea. It clips whites pretty bad. 2.2 is a good choice. I have two modes I use and the second one uses 2.2 gamma.

Turning the sharpness up will not hurt at all

And you are welcome
post #200 of 2130
Topper beats THX

Well, this time, on this TV. There is a 50/50 chance that using settings from another display will improve your picture. In this case, Topper wins. Topper's settings produced a max luminance of 36 Foot Lamberts, THX Cinema 30, and THX Bright Room 41. I could have used either THX mode for a comparison so I pulled THX Cinema out of a hat. Topper's settings won in all categories except color, but the difference would not be visible. Grayscale was terrific. Congratulations.

CalibrationSummaryDetailedTXH_Cinema_VS_Topper_AVS.pdf 490k .pdf file



Quote:
Originally Posted by JimP View Post

Regarding sharpness, you might want to try different sharpness levels to see if one suits you better than another.
I stayed with the default of 50.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TopperMcFly View Post

Turning the sharpness up will not hurt at all

Sharpness is another matter, and on the VT50 the better setting is at or near 0. There is also some undefeatable edge enhancement processing going on but there is nothing that can be done about it no matter where Sharpness is set..
post #201 of 2130
+1. Sharpness is better around 0 for all 2012 Pannys.
post #202 of 2130
Thanks. I brought Contrast down to 70 for the first 100 hrs.
post #203 of 2130
I've been playing around with settings for about 2 weeks on my own to get to a picture that is half-way decent (Was not too impressed with THX settings - Pictures were very dull and dark). Plugged in toppers setting and finally a picture that looks great.

I
post #204 of 2130
Topper,

I used all the settings on my 65vt50 and it looks great but there were three that were grayed out that you had listed settings: 1080p direct, 3:2 pull down, and 24p direct in.

Did I miss something that would remove that from gray and allow me to adjust them?

Thanks.
post #205 of 2130
Guys if you want to see what Sharpness does to your settings, download and burn a CD of AVSHD (Free). Open up the tab Basic settings (top left tab) go to the last display in this group, look at the top left or bottom right grafts and you will see how the colors change when moving the sharpness control, if there is a problem with your settings.

But the most important test is the Stepped Gray Scale ramp, if there is any tint other than gray then your settings are off.

You can compare the THX settings (default) to your settings and see the differences in the above to tests. With my 65VT50 using the default setting of THX, the gray scale stepped pattern has no tint and the basic grafts don't change with using lower sharpness settings.

imo, your best bet is to use the default THX setting for any movie viewing, until you have your set properly calibrated by a real pro.

ss
post #206 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by iceman143 View Post

Topper,
I used all the settings on my 65vt50 and it looks great but there were three that were grayed out that you had listed settings: 1080p direct, 3:2 pull down, and 24p direct in.
Did I miss something that would remove that from gray and allow me to adjust them?
Thanks.

3:2 pulldown option only works with interlaced content (480i or 1080i) its not used with progressive formats (480p,720p,1080p)
24p direct in of course is only used with a 24p signal like from a blu-ray player setup for 24p output.
So in summary, you need to input different signal formats to get certain options available if its grayed out it just means its not applicable to the current input signal format.
post #207 of 2130
Thanks, Joxer. I thought such was the case and changed channels on my DTV box so that I thought I was on an interlaced channel output but I guess not. I'll change the inputs to complete the adjustments. Sometimes I can take the simplest things and make them harder than they should be.
post #208 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by sillysally View Post

Guys if you want to see what Sharpness does to your settings, download and burn a CD of AVSHD (Free). Open up the tab Basic settings (top left tab) go to the last display in this group, look at the top left or bottom right grafts and you will see how the colors change when moving the sharpness control, if there is a problem with your settings.
But the most important test is the Stepped Gray Scale ramp, if there is any tint other than gray then your settings are off.
You can compare the THX settings (default) to your settings and see the differences in the above to tests. With my 65VT50 using the default setting of THX, the gray scale stepped pattern has no tint and the basic grafts don't change with using lower sharpness settings.
imo, your best bet is to use the default THX setting for any movie viewing, until you have your set properly calibrated by a real pro.
ss
I used this and had to set my sharpness to +23 .
post #209 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by oztech View Post

I used this and had to set my sharpness to +23 .

Sounds about right. But it all depends on your settings.

I am working on new ISF settings, matching all the primary's and secondary's lum levels and of course there respective delta levels (about 2 1/5% above 0 for all matching lum levels).
Anyway from what I could tell last night 0 sharpness will be the setting.

I am getting some IR from the CMS and gray scale windows so I will have to wait for at-least a few days before I can finalize these settings.

ss
post #210 of 2130
ss,

How are you going about matching (or for that matter, even adjusting) the lum levels?
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