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The Official Panasonic VT50 Settings Thread - Page 15

post #421 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by blwegrzyn View Post

I used calman4.
I set brightness, contrast first.
Then i increased contrast to get luminance of 30fl.
then i went to Displays Gamma Settings and measured for 9 point (20-100)

My guess with those huge adjustments is that you have a meter issue
post #422 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by blwegrzyn View Post

I did some gamma measurements with my spyder3 meter with 78 contrast and 58 brightness and when i did 9 point reading with a target of gamma 2.2 the gamma was around 2.0. (tv had gamma set to 2.4)
To get the flat line at 2.2 i had to put these settings:
10: 0
20: -38
30: -17
40: -14
50: -9
60: -4
70: -1
80: 0
90: 3
100: 4
I see you guys do little adjustment here so i wonder why i am so off?
Is the the meter that is of bad quality?

If you are referring to those settings posted on page 14 of this thread, don't use them as any kind of reference.

Do a 10PT calibration, IRE of 10% is also important to at-least balance RGB.

No I don't think you meter is that far off, if you are using Mid PB, 2.4 and Neutral Gamma. Your Contrast and brightness settings seem very close to where I would think you would want to set them for a night calibration.

Of-course there are many other factors that go into why you would set your GS Lum using what you are using.
Edited by sillysally - 8/15/12 at 11:48pm
post #423 of 2130
Does the new update screw up the thx preset colors as well or does it just affect pro calibration modes? my guess is THX mode was already calibrated to the way they wanted with all the luminance and color and is set in stone in the preset. Can anyone confirm that it does or does not mess with the colors in the THX presets?
post #424 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by sillysally View Post

If you are referring to those settings posted on page 14 of this thread, don't use them as any kind of reference.
Do a 10PT calibration, IRE of 10% is also important to at-least balance RGB.
No I don't think you meter is that far off, if you are using Mid PB, 2.4 and Neutral Gamma. Your Contrast and brightness settings seem very close to where I would think you would want to set them for a night calibration.
Of-course there are many other factors that go into why you would set your GS Lum using what you are using.

I will redo it with 10PT. I did the 9 point as I though that with cheaper meter is not worth to do 0 and 10 measurements.
Yes, mid PB and 2.4.
What is the Neutral Gamma you are referring to?
post #425 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by blwegrzyn View Post

I will redo it with 10PT. I did the 9 point as I though that with cheaper meter is not worth to do 0 and 10 measurements.
Yes, mid PB and 2.4.
What is the Neutral Gamma you are referring to?
Opps I did it again. Normal Gamma, and why you are at it try Normal Color Temp.

Also if you are using a calibration disc and your source player is a Bly Ray/DVD player , turn off all enchantments including deep color.

When calibrating your CMS, keep going over your primary's and secondary's don't forget when you make one change to a P/S it will probably change at-least one of the other P (primary) or S (secondary). Make small changes to your P/S until you get some idea on what affects what in your CMS. And above all be patient.
You may want to try and balance/stabilize Red and Cyan first.
You may want to do a 2PT or 10PT (20% and 80% Gary Scale) before you go into your CMS settings.

Below is a first pass (Ruff-in) I did yesterday using a 10PT grayscale. I set the contrast at 80, color at 46 and brightness at 57. I also use delta 76 for grayscale and 100% reading for CMS, delta 94 for CMS except 100%.

The pictures are just an example of what I suggested above, after doing a Ruff-In (first pass).

[quote

ss
Edited by sillysally - 8/17/12 at 3:13am
post #426 of 2130
SS

Keep an eye on your brightness setting as you calibrate.

I had been using 57 but by the time I got finish I had to push it on up to 60.....but then again, I apparantly was moving my cuts downward.

Seems like there should be some formula for grayscale that rather than moving one color down 10 units that you move it down 5 and the other two up 5.

Still not totally satisfied with my picture (dark for daytime) but I'm getting there.
post #427 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimP View Post

SS
Keep an eye on your brightness setting as you calibrate.
I had been using 57 but by the time I got finish I had to push it on up to 60.....but then again, I apparantly was moving my cuts downward.
Seems like there should be some formula for grayscale that rather than moving one color down 10 units that you move it down 5 and the other two up 5.
Still not totally satisfied with my picture (dark for daytime) but I'm getting there.

Are you using the slider for Green when doing your Grayscale, that can cause the brightness to change. My brightness never changes, and that is one reason why I don't like using Green

Because I do not like using Green in my grayscale, I have to do a lot more with Red, Blue and Lum. Plus using color temp neutral and 2.4, that doesn't make it any easier. Also you need to be aware of the slight Red tint in the 10 and 20% IRE's and compensate for the tint

ss
post #428 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by sillysally View Post

Opps I did it again. Normal Gamma, and why you are at it try Normal Color Temp.
Also if you are using a calibration disc and your source player is a Bly Ray/DVD player , turn off all enchantments including deep color.
When calibrating your CMS, keep going over your primary's and secondary's don't forget when you make one change to a P/S it will probably change at-least one of the other P (primary) or S (secondary). Make small changes to your P/S until you get some idea on what affects what in your CMS. And above all be patient.
You may want to try and balance/stabilize Red and Cyan first.
You may want to do a 2PT or 10PT (20% and 80% Gary Scale) before you go into your CMS settings.
Below is a first pass (Ruff-in) I did yesterday using a 10PT grayscale. I set the contrast at 80, color at 46 and brightness at 57. I also use delta 76 for grayscale and 100% reading for CMS, delta 94 for CMS except 100%.
The pictures are just an example of what I suggested above, after doing a Ruff-In (first pass).
[quote
ss

yesterday when i did a 10point for gamma with settings of warm2 and 2.4 the average was 2.0.
You want me to try normal for color temp and normal gamma? what is normal gamma value?

edit: if i set my contrast and brightness by using the patterns and luminance readings, should i manipulate it to get better gamma readings?
post #429 of 2130
I am having a hard time calibrating my VT50 using my HTPC as a source (using a GT430 Nvidia card).

I have attached my contralcal file as well as my calman charts. Even though saturation seems low on blue, the actual picture looks overly saturated on blues (and obviously reds). My brightness setting is the weirdest thing. I have to dump it really low to get it to fall within range on the brightness pluge patten. I have confirmed that the video card and TV are set to PC levels.

Any help?





TCC ISF Night 8-16-12.xml 3k .xml file
post #430 of 2130
slvart

The most likely possibiliity is that your color meter has drifted and is giving your wrong readings.


Have you tried running patterns from a stand alone player and seeing if you get the same results?
post #431 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by blwegrzyn View Post

yesterday when i did a 10point for gamma with settings of warm2 and 2.4 the average was 2.0.
You want me to try normal for color temp and normal gamma? what is normal gamma value?
edit: if i set my contrast and brightness by using the patterns and luminance readings, should i manipulate it to get better gamma readings?

No I wasn't suggesting you use Normal, Mid and 2.4. imo those setting are the hardest to use and get right, but the results can be very nice with a lot of depth and clarity. I posted those setting and charts to show that it can be done, if you set your gamma target to whatever (2.2,2.4) you should be able to get a 2.2 or 2.4 gamma. And that's why I made reference to the fact that those charts, numbers and settings where just my first pass, not my final settings.
I checked and calman defaults to the correct gamma, so don't worry about it.
If you start and change your contrast after your calibration more than a few ticks up or down, then yes it will affect your calibration.



I haven't had a chance to view any reference material, but I am sure they are with-in specs.

ss
post #432 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimP View Post

slvart
The most likely possibiliity is that your color meter has drifted and is giving your wrong readings.
Have you tried running patterns from a stand alone player and seeing if you get the same results?

Yeah, what kind of meter is it? I actually experienced this myself.
post #433 of 2130
CalMAN 4.6.4 Release Notes

Released August 17, 2012

Updates

Added a faster and more robust interface for the AVFoundry VideoForge
Added a Low Light Handler for the X-rite i1Display3
Resolved an issue with the Flexible Picture Systems Image AnyPlace 200 in PC mode
Resolved an issue with the X-rite i1Pro2 spectroradiometer
Resolved an issue connecting to the QuantumData 701a with the latest firmware
Resolved issues with the JVC RS45 projector

ss
post #434 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by sillysally View Post

CalMAN 4.6.4 Release Notes
Released August 17, 2012
Updates
Added a faster and more robust interface for the AVFoundry VideoForge
Added a Low Light Handler for the X-rite i1Display3
Resolved an issue with the Flexible Picture Systems Image AnyPlace 200 in PC mode
Resolved an issue with the X-rite i1Pro2 spectroradiometer
Resolved an issue connecting to the QuantumData 701a with the latest firmware
Resolved issues with the JVC RS45 projector
ss

Thanks for this. I wonder how far off we are from Calman 5 DIY/HT (or whatever they'll call it).
post #435 of 2130
Out of curiousity, if anyone can answer as a new issue has occured on my VT50, but do stuck pixels ever become unstuck. What I just noticed tonight is one pixel that is flickering between what it should be and a bright green color. This is right in the area where I have one dead pixel and is the next pixel after the dead one. The bright green flickering pixel can easily be noticed from regular viewing distance as it is very bright. Will the pixel eventually correct itself?
post #436 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tempest261 View Post

Yeah, what kind of meter is it? I actually experienced this myself.

This is with an i1pro.
post #437 of 2130
I am actually having a different problem this time...

I have gotten the colors to fall in line in almost all areas, except my white level gamut luminance is way high. Everything doesn't look quite right, either. I have also realized I need to reinitialize my i1pro every 10 minutes, which I have been doing, but these new issues persist.

Any idea what I am doing wrong here?



TCC ISF Night 8-19-12.xml 3k .xml file
post #438 of 2130
It looks like there is a chance that white was measured at 100% instead of 75%. Very strange.

As to i1Pro dark readings: Go ahead and do dark readings while working on GS and Gamma but it is not required for Gamut work.
post #439 of 2130
remember, he's using a HTPC, Nvidia card, CalkMAN's HTPC pattern generator ..... things can get complicated with the card's output...
post #440 of 2130
Is they any chance of some Euro Model calibration settings?

Would love to give them ago even though they are panel specific.
post #441 of 2130
My tv was set to warm2 and 2.4.
Target gamma was 2.4.

So I did 30 and then 100, and then 10 full w/b.
I noticed with my meter i was having issues with 0 (could not measure anything) and 10 (hardly can trust if the readings were good)
What i don't get why the gamma is so low?
I did not adjust gamma 10 point yet.

again is this meter (spyder2) or i am doing something wrong?

thx
post #442 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by turbe View Post

remember, he's using a HTPC, Nvidia card, CalkMAN's HTPC pattern generator ..... things can get complicated with the card's output...

Yeah, it is getting annoying. :-/ I have tried a few different video cards, too. A GT430, GT640 and the integrated Intel HD4000. I will play around with it some more, but it didn't look like 100% IRE when it read that value.
post #443 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by blwegrzyn View Post

My tv was set to warm2 and 2.4.
Target gamma was 2.4.
So I did 30 and then 100, and then 10 full w/b.
I noticed with my meter i was having issues with 0 (could not measure anything) and 10 (hardly can trust if the readings were good)
What i don't get why the gamma is so low?
I did not adjust gamma 10 point yet.
again is this meter (spyder2) or i am doing something wrong?
thx

There is only a 10pt Grayscale on your VT50, not 11PT. So there is no readings for 0IRE. You may want to change the default 11pt to 10pt in your option menu.

Its seems that there are many folks reporting the below target gamma. Are you using Green +/- when adjusting your grayscale?

ss
post #444 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by blwegrzyn View Post

My tv was set to warm2 and 2.4.
Target gamma was 2.4.
So I did 30 and then 100, and then 10 full w/b.
I noticed with my meter i was having issues with 0 (could not measure anything) and 10 (hardly can trust if the readings were good)
What i don't get why the gamma is so low?
I did not adjust gamma 10 point yet.
again is this meter (spyder2) or i am doing something wrong?
thx

Don't know if it will help but I set my gamma to 2.4 to get 2.2. I have to make less adjustments that way. 2.6 may get you to 2.4 easier.
post #445 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by sillysally View Post

There is only a 10pt Grayscale on your VT50, not 11PT. So there is no readings for 0IRE. You may want to change the default 11pt to 10pt in your option menu.
Its seems that there are many folks reporting the below target gamma. Are you using Green +/- when adjusting your grayscale?
ss

i did not change it to 10point as i figured that if there is no data for 0 it wont hurt the graph and results.
Attached my settings that got me to the graph above.
Most of the time i manipulated RED.

Funny part is that i still think that the colors are not that bad compared to other settings i copied from other members.
I noticed that with my settings letters are sharper then with others (for example wmwilker)
cal.xml 3k .xml file
Edited by blwegrzyn - 8/21/12 at 2:53pm
post #446 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by wmwilker View Post

Don't know if it will help but I set my gamma to 2.4 to get 2.2. I have to make less adjustments that way. 2.6 may get you to 2.4 easier.

this is what i have, set to 2.4 and now i need to decide what to do.
Should I try to make it 2.4 or just try to make it 2.2 while set to 2.4?
post #447 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by blwegrzyn View Post

this is what i have, set to 2.4 and now i need to decide what to do.
Should I try to make it 2.4 or just try to make it 2.2 while set to 2.4?

That is up to you. Most prefer 2.2 for day, and many will argue about 2.2 vs 2.4 (or higher) for night. If you are in a very dark/pitch black room, I would suggest 2.4

This post has good info

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1332660/gamma-2-2-vs-2-4#post_20386885
post #448 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrady3324 View Post

That is up to you. Most prefer 2.2 for day, and many will argue about 2.2 vs 2.4 (or higher) for night. If you are in a very dark/pitch black room, I would suggest 2.4
This post has good info
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1332660/gamma-2-2-vs-2-4#post_20386885

thx for nice link, but why when gamma is set to 2.4 the meter measures it much lower? (mine 2.4 averages to 2.0)

Edit: what i am thinking is that i might be setting the contrast incorrectly. I can easily set brightness to flashing 17 and above, but for the contrast i am not sure how to set it up. I end up with 77contrast and 57brightness, but i noticed that i can lower it and then gamma goes up, so i read a calman posts about setting contrast, but i actually having hard time to get to something that is correct, i just move the slider so white on the right clips and then i decrease the contrast until i see the last bar on right flashing which should give me 254, that way i end up with 69 and 59)
Edited by blwegrzyn - 8/21/12 at 7:06pm
post #449 of 2130
For the 24p input, should I set it to 60Hz or 96Hz ? I see some flickering on 48Hz, but by default it is set to 60Hz, so I don't know which one I should use.
post #450 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by blwegrzyn View Post

i did not change it to 10point as i figured that if there is no data for 0 it wont hurt the graph and results.
Attached my settings that got me to the graph above.
Most of the time i manipulated RED.
Funny part is that i still think that the colors are not that bad compared to other settings i copied from other members.
I noticed that with my settings letters are sharper then with others (for example wmwilker)
cal.xml 3k .xml file

Using Warm2, I would think contrast is set about right, brightness is set to high (54), color is set to high (46), sharpness is to high (0).

Without seeing any numbers its hard to tell where you are at with your grayscale settings, so you may want to see how close you are to the target numbers for your grayscale. I am guessing your targeted numbers for grayscale are not very close to what your actual numbers are.

ss
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