The Official Panasonic VT50 Settings Thread - Page 21

That is impossible and I don't think you understand the difference between 1D (TV) LUTs and 3D (processor) LUTs. Here's a primer: http://www.lightillusion.com/luts.html

After running a few 125 PT cubes, I came to the conclusion that I would have to be a math wiz, to be able to get a better calibration (but never say never)..That's why I said using the cube is kind like the luck of the draw You may want to run several calibrations, use the memory's in the Mini and then pick the one or two you like best..

That said, I do like doing a 21 PT grayscale, and I would like to run some higher point cubes just to see what happens.

My 1D calibrations can't really compare to what the Mini and CM5E can do when you use the 3D lut 125 pt.

With the cube there is just so much more for are VT50's to work with, color, depth, lighting, etc. Are VT50's take to this process like a duck to water.

ss
Edited by sillysally - 10/5/12 at 1:03pm

Am I understanding you correctly that we can calibrate more than 125 points in the CMS of the Mini ? If so, which software supports that ? I can't see an option in Calman 5 other than 125 points (or less)...

Ty for the update. I think i understand now. Still want ot be able to calibrate other TV even if i have to do it manually. I just wanted to make sure even thou the VT50 can auto config. I samsung i would like to config also, but manually using all three tools. Just i will leave the mini3d connected to the VT50. I hope i'm understanding this is possible.

ss Thank you for explaining things to me in detail. I guess what i missing is the translation of this process. I Calibrate the VT50 125pt or 21. But also take it to the other room calibrate my samsung , get the setting it need from the mini3d. Change the setting manually on samsung because it does not have the auto feature. once im done with samsung take it back to the Vt50 and leave it plugged to VT50 until other TV come to play in the future purchase. ( This process is possible correct?) I see the tool to pull the setting to the tv, is this the info i will use to manually change the setting on my samsung. I tried to look for hand on video but could not find much.


This sound like this device is future proof as Tv get better. I know this wont be my last TV so it's worth getting now. Plus CM is always pushing the limit too.

Thanks again to all...'

CplusE

Only tried it once and stopped in the middle, how you would increase the 125 PT is in the cube screen (CMS). Look on the lower left of the screen you should see a Red, Green and Blue box. The Red will say something like sweep, the Green and Blue will have numbers above them, there is where you can go up to about 950 PT. Of-course the more PT's you add the longer the CMS calibration will take.

ss
Edited by sillysally - 10/5/12 at 6:42pm

yeah got ya, that is the Lumagen CMS, but the 3D LUT is limited to 125 points max...

For 3D LUT calibrations beyond 125 points you need Enthusiast and the SpectraCal ColorBox. For additional device flexibility you'll need to purchase Ultimate.

Okay - post ISF calibration update. I am very disappointed in my calibration. After not having the correct cord twice - resulting in two trips, the calibrator accessed the ISF night mode on the plasma. He could not get the program on "calman 5" to to auto calibrate the plasma. Then, on Calman 4, he could not find the US version of the VT50 (only the EU version) for the auto-calibration. Needless to say, he only did a curiousry grey-scale calibration and only analyzed the colors without adjustment because "they were pretty close" and "because the auto cal was not working [he] could not get the color adjustments to work." Then I had to remind him of the ISF 3d mode, which after an enormous amount of time, he accessed but did not calibrate well because, again the "auto cal was not found for Calman 4 and Calman 5 was not working properly." Now I have an ISF night mode half-assed calibrated and a ISF 3D night mode even worse. The 3D picture has a light green tint to the picture. This ISF calibration company is even listed on the ISF site as a "Level II Certified" dealer so YIKES!!! I contacted the company rep and he indicated that " the auto cal is very unreliable and unstable" and that is why they don't use it. My question is why then was that the starting point for each of the calibrations attempted and also the reason why the "full" calibration could not be done. My plan now is to use the complimentary ISF calibration offered by Best Buy Geek Squad to see if they do a better job. If not then back to the drawing board - anyone have a recommendation for a trusted ISF calibrator who can access the auto-calibration and fully do an ISF calibration on a VT50 that has a service aera in Houston, Texas?

Both Doug Weil and Chad Billheimer tour around Houston.. check the link in my Forum Signature below for their contact info... EDIT: also, Jeff Meier tours to Houston
Edited by turbe - 10/11/12 at 6:18pm

...and we have both timed our next TX calibration tour for around the same time in December. Didn't mean to, it just happened that way.

Anyone interested in a practically new i1Pro2 (used a few times) and or a i1Display 3?

Just started using TJN's settings from Home Theater Magazine and they look excellent! This will definitely work until I get it calibrated.

Edit: Forgot to mention, I'm using Gamma setting 2.6 for dark room; 2.4 for daytime. Anyone else use 2.6 for night?
Edited by mnc - 10/12/12 at 3:49am

Just remember that 2.2 isn't really 2.2.

2.4 is much closer to 2.2.

Any idea what 2.6 approximates?

I would guess a setting of 2.6 approximates a gamma of 2.4, which is supposed to be the correct setting for a dark environment.

I'm totally confused here guys. I'm new to this Plasma stuff. I just purchased my first Plasma and it is a Panasonic TC-P65VT50. It's not mounted on my wall yet but hopefully it will be mounted soon within a few weeks or so.

I just thought you just plug it in and the way she goes???....but I guess I'll have to do some major tweaking with it to get the picture quality perfect? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

On another note...when setting up my blue-ray player; another first time purchase, will the video signal by pass through my pre-amplifier and go straight to my Plasma or will it go through my pre-ampifier's video filters. And if so, should I disable that feature and let it by-pass? The reason for my concern is that I'll be playing mainly Blue-Ray movies but occassinally play DVD movies as well. Any more suggestions would be also greatly appreciated.


Thank you for your time.

Peace to all!

Has anyone used Calman 5 with AutoCAL, and, if so, how well did it work?

Michael

As far as out of the box settings go, your VT50 has some fairly good settings, namely the THX settings.

As for "major tweaking with it to get the picture quality perfect" it is highly unlikely that you with just a calibration disc like the WOW disc could ever come close to "picture quality perfect" or anybody for that matter.
imo if you want "picture quality perfect", the best for a normal 2D Blu Ray movie (not 3D*) is doing a 21 point gray scale and most importantly a 3D LUT 125 point CSM calibration. This type of calibration imo will be better than any normal ISF/THX calibration from a Pro calibrator. The down side to this is you must have something like a Lumagen RadianceMini or above. You also need the calibration software and meter to do this, this you could rent, buy and do it yourself (not hard to do) or hire a pro to do it.

Yes you want to use a Pass-through mode for video on most anything you run your HDMI cable through, or better still if your Blu Ray player has two HDMI out ports use one to run directly to your VT50 and the other run to your pre for audio.

ss

* my opinion is still out for 3D.

It is unnecessary to use a Gamma target higher to hit a lower Gamma. See my top link in my sig, I used a 2.2 Gamma target and hit a 2.2 Gamma, the grafts clearly show this.

As for 2.4 for a dark room, not really. The Gamma target should be set based on a number of other settings. Most of the time you are better off hitting a 2.2 Gamma.

ss

Since I have no calibration equipment, I am just using the settings available. I just happen to like the 2.6 setting best for night, especially for darker movies. I use 2.4 for daytime, sometimes 2.2 if it is really sunny or sometimes for football. As far as 2.4 being the target gamma for a dark room, that is just what I heard from the calibrators at the Value Electronics shootout this year. Again I have no equipment so I can't say what my actual gamma is compared to the listed gamma for each setting.
I'm really enjoying this TV!

Like many I'm sure, I got Avatar 3D today and really not sure what to think. I'm completely new to all the advanced settings capable in this set, and 3D just compounds the situation.

I just got the set 9/25 and am using the C-net settings with satisfactory image. I'm using my PS3 as the blueray/3D player and a darblet.

I've been highly anticipating watching this and actually shut it off because it seems unwatchable. Unless it is a still or slow paced scene it becomes very distorted, not sure if it is crosstalk or motion related. Items in the foreground seem to blur and really become distracting. Areas of the movie where it seems to play towards the 3D effect, dirt flying towards the screen, moth/insects floating in the air and the scene where he is putting the golf ball towards the screen are really distorted.

The depth seems to be ok, but really not sure what I'm supposed to be seeing. Maybe it's normal, but to me the hype isn't living up to my expectations as far as it being jaw dropping in 3D.

Anyone have some suggestions on what I can try tweaking. I've set the PS3 to 24hz. Tried both 48hz and 60hz in the tv settings, not sure where to go with motion enhancement or other settings to help.

I appreciate any help that can be offered, I really don't know where to begin and fear making it worse.

Thanks

I haven't posted in the plasma forum section since I calibrated my Panasonic G10 with my Eye-One Display LT and the ColorHCFR software few years back, but I'm returning because my brother is getting a VT50 soon and we're looking into calibrating it. Will we still be able to use my Eye-One Display LT with ColorHCFR, or is their a more preferred method now? Also, is it true we will not need to go into the service menu on the VT50 as all the ISF color settings are in the menu? What about grayscale? I know these are pretty basic questions...I'd appreciate if someone could link me to a relevant post or guide that would get me started. Thanks so much.

Yes, you can use that combo.. many do..

You have Custom with access to all the Controls.. also ControlCAL can activate and adjust the VT50's ISFccc.. I'm PM you some additional info

Meteor

Over time, thse meters drift.

Go ahead and budget a new meter.

Excuse my ignorance. What is the relationship/difference between ControlCAL and CalMAN? Do you need both?

ControlCAL and CalMAN are separate applications developed by two different developers..

You can use ControlCAL standalone and/or with CalMAN, ColorFacts, ChromaPure, ColorHCFR or Progressive Labs etc.
Edited by turbe - 10/17/12 at 11:04pm

I missed the 'few years back'.. yes, and as JimP stated, I'm also confident that meter has drifted so you should consider a new meter.. I recommend an i1Pro Spectro (Rev D), you can find them used...

More info here:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1373556/i1-pro-or-d3-if-you-could-only-have-one-meter

http://www.tlvexp.ca/2012/04/do-calibration-tables-really-work-for-tri-stim-devices/


In the states, you can find used i1 Pro Rev D for $200-$450...
Edited by turbe - 10/17/12 at 11:06pm

So my meter that I paid $100-something for and I used once is now garbage? I kept it in the box, sealed in a ziplock bag tucked away in my closet for the past three years. If this is what's to be expected from these meters I will never buy one again.

If I try using it, what are the indications it has gone bad?

Meteror

What told me that mine was bad was that the results were shifted to the red.


Given how you've taken care of yours...who knows. I'd at least give it a try.

...and yes, what gives with these meters. Why would they break down during storage.

Instructions for storing these meters is to use one of those dryer packs. I suspect a bag of rice would work as well. If you didn't store it with a dryer, you might want to use the rice trick to dry out the internals.

Thanks. I only used a sealed ziplock, with it in the original box for storing it. Figured that would be enough to keep the air and light away from it.

I'll give it a try, but if it seems like its not coming out as well as it worked before I guess I'll trash it and probably not buy another unless I know this problem wont happen. What a waste of money!

Q: when you click safe as default in Pro settings menu, does that mean it copies the settings to other inputs (which is what I want), or does it overwrites the mfgr default pro settings for that input (NOT what I want)