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The Official Panasonic VT50 Settings Thread - Page 28

post #811 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7thSeal View Post

Pixel orbiter is one of the first things I turned off while in the break in period. If not sure of what you'll be watching during this time I could see it as a benefit having it enabled but I want all pixels active all the time during this process.
Edit: robnix, I couldn't stand it and applied your settings before a movie started since your using a reasonable contrast and wow! I'm highly impressed and saved your settings as default. biggrin.gif

Nice! Thanks!
post #812 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by mo949 View Post

robnix - just curious if you use ISF night ever. I just purhased control cal so I could use wmwilkers settings. I think he said he wasn't happy with his day one, are you using his night one?

I just use the day setting right now. I'd rather not get into the whole "switch it over to night mode when the room is dark" with my wife. If I can figure out a way to get my BDT-500 to switch to ISF Night instead if Cinema I may do it. Sometime over the next few weeks I'm going to start digging into learning to do 3D.
post #813 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by robnix View Post

Sometime over the next few weeks I'm going to start digging into learning to do 3D.

Not many have dove into these grounds yet... looking forward to the end results. smile.gif
post #814 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by robnix View Post

I just use the day setting right now. I'd rather not get into the whole "switch it over to night mode when the room is dark" with my wife. If I can figure out a way to get my BDT-500 to switch to ISF Night instead if Cinema I may do it. Sometime over the next few weeks I'm going to start digging into learning to do 3D.

Oh I see. So I have it lucky. The day mode is my wifes viewing mode and is on the cable box input. When I'm home at night I only ever watch through my BR player which is a different input so I can have it be default night.
post #815 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by mo949 View Post

Oh I see. So I have it lucky. The day mode is my wifes viewing mode and is on the cable box input. When I'm home at night I only ever watch through my BR player which is a different input so I can have it be default night.

Doh! I have dual HDMI on my BR player....thanks for the tip ;-)
post #816 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by robnix View Post

Doh! I have dual HDMI on my BR player....thanks for the tip ;-)
NP i guess lol. Glad I could return the favor on the help.
post #817 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by robnix View Post

Ok finally - Here's my current ISF Day, calibrated with Calman 5 Enthusiast and an i1pro rev. d. Calman readings are inline. Hope they work for you, remember that TV's vary from set to set so YMMV.
Enjoy!
ISF-Day-01052013.xml 3k .xml file

Sorry for the noob question, but is the only way to use these settings with Calman or just copy them from the HTML?
post #818 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagged68 View Post

Sorry for the noob question, but is the only way to use these settings with Calman or just copy them from the HTML?

You can put them in custom mode manually. I highly recommend ControlCal though, it's a small investment for an incredible amount of convenience.
Edited by robnix - 1/7/13 at 11:10am
post #819 of 2130
Jagged68, that format that is attached is from what robnix is using ControlCAL G/VT30 Edition v2 for VT50 display control .

I'll pm you some info
Edited by turbe - 1/7/13 at 9:55am
post #820 of 2130
Another vote for ControlCal! I bought it tonight and within 20 minutes I had wmwilker's Day and Night settings on my HDMI 1 and 2 inputs. What a great tool, and it connects via wifi...no cables, quick response..couldn't be easier! I'll have to try some other files, like robnix' and see how I like those. This tool is so fast you can try a bunch of files in one sitting. Kind of wondering what my calibrator is going to do on Friday!

Robnix:

Quick question...can you use ControlCal to download your Custom mode configuration to potentially use in another mode?
Edited by scirica - 1/7/13 at 10:19pm
post #821 of 2130
scirica / robnix, that is Procedure #4 then Procedure #3 in that email from me.. There can be even a quicker way though, you can email me if interested.
Edited by turbe - 1/7/13 at 10:12pm
post #822 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by turbe View Post

scirica / robnix, that is Procedure #4 then Procedure #3 in that email from me.. There can be even a quicker way though, you can email me if interested.

Thanks!
post #823 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by robnix View Post

I just use the day setting right now. I'd rather not get into the whole "switch it over to night mode when the room is dark" with my wife. If I can figure out a way to get my BDT-500 to switch to ISF Night instead if Cinema I may do it. Sometime over the next few weeks I'm going to start digging into learning to do 3D.

Why would you need your BD player to switch any mode. That would be done with your VT50, the same thing goes for 3D (Stereo).

If your settings are done and inputted with Calman 5E I don't know for sure if you could input them manually in custom mode. Same thing goes for trying to use Calmans ISF settings to input with Controlcal. I have had many requests for my ISF settings to be converted to input with Controlcal, so I tried last week to copy my standard Calman ISF settings using Controlcal and it did not work.

Doing a 3D (stereo) calibration is about the same as a 2D calibration using Caman 5. You simply force your VT50 to use 3D mode (Button top left on your remote), put your meter about 12" from your screen with the shutter glasses on the meter and turned on so they sync with your VT50. That's the only real differences. You could try using normal for screen brightness, natural for color temp, 2.4 gamma, 100 contrast, 50 brightness.

The problem you are going to have is using your I1pro and reading the lower IRE's, it just not going to work. The light output for a 3D (stereo) calibration is around 5fl, so I would suggest getting a oem I1display pro or a C6 meter and do a 3D profile to your I1pro with the 3D shutter glasses on the I1pro and no glasses on the I1display, using Camans profile tool.. Not only will you be able to read the lower IRE's but by profiling there is no need to use the 3D glasses on the profiled meter when doing a 3D (stereo) calibration.

ss
post #824 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by sillysally View Post

Why would you need your BD player to switch any mode. That would be done with your VT50, the same thing goes for 3D (Stereo).
It's a "Feature" that's on the Panasonic BDT-500. When it's turned on, it will switch Panasonic TV's into Cinema mode when you start up the player, when you turn the player off it switches the TV back into it's previous setting. The downside is it only uses Cinema, or I haven't found a way to change it. The reason I'd like to use it is simple, my wife wants everything to be single button with our harmony remote, adding a manual step simply isn't going to happen. I've tried macros with the Harmony's, but once those get out of sync...
Quote:
Originally Posted by sillysally View Post

Doing a 3D (stereo) calibration is about the same as a 2D calibration using Caman 5. You simply force your VT50 to use 3D mode (Button top left on your remote), put your meter about 12" from your screen with the shutter glasses on the meter and turned on so they sync with your VT50. That's the only real differences. You could try using normal for screen brightness, natural for color temp, 2.4 gamma, 100 contrast, 50 brightness.
The problem you are going to have is using your I1pro and reading the lower IRE's, it just not going to work. The light output for a 3D (stereo) calibration is around 5fl, so I would suggest getting a oem I1display pro or a C6 meter and do a 3D profile to your I1pro with the 3D shutter glasses on the I1pro and no glasses on the I1display, using Camans profile tool.. Not only will you be able to read the lower IRE's but by profiling there is no need to use the 3D glasses on the profiled meter when doing a 3D (stereo) calibration.
ss

Thanks for this, I have an i1display pro, but may be taking advantage of the Spectracal trade in program to get an i1pro2.
post #825 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by robnix View Post

It's a "Feature" that's on the Panasonic BDT-500. When it's turned on, it will switch Panasonic TV's into Cinema mode when you start up the player, when you turn the player off it switches the TV back into it's previous setting. The downside is it only uses Cinema, or I haven't found a way to change it. The reason I'd like to use it is simple, my wife wants everything to be single button with our harmony remote, adding a manual step simply isn't going to happen. I've tried macros with the Harmony's, but once those get out of sync...
Thanks for this, I have an i1display pro, but may be taking advantage of the Spectracal trade in program to get an i1pro2.

Its very important to please the wife in these matters.wink.gif

If you already have a I1display and a I1pro D, maybe you should just keep what you have profile your I1 display with your I11pro and use your I1display for your calibrations.
I have both the I1pro D and the I1pro 2 basic, but I only use them to profile my C6.
Maybe you might want to look at a Lumagen Mini 3D and start doing 21 point grayscales/RGB and a LUT 3D cube 125 point CMS, as long as you have the rest of the hardware/software.
I see more now using the 3D LUT cube than I ever saw before, plus the depth (2D) is not that far from a actual 3D (stereo) picture (glasses).

Here is what a LUT 3D cube looks like after it has been run.



ss

. .
.
post #826 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by sillysally View Post

Its very important to please the wife in these matters.wink.gif
If you already have a I1display and a I1pro D, maybe you should just keep what you have profile your I1 display with your I11pro and use your I1display for your calibrations.
I have both the I1pro D and the I1pro 2 basic, but I only use them to profile my C6.
Maybe you might want to look at a Lumagen Mini 3D and start doing 21 point grayscales/RGB and a LUT 3D cube 125 point CMS, as long as you have the rest of the hardware/software.
I see more now using the 3D LUT cube than I ever saw before, plus the depth (2D) is not that far from a actual 3D (stereo) picture (glasses).
Here is what a LUT 3D cube looks like after it has been run.

ss
. .
.

I've thought about the Lumagen, I'd love to have one in the chain, but my budget this year is slated for new furniture, paint, and flooring for our media room.

Thanks again. If I don't head to the mountains on Saturday I'll give night mode and 3D a shot.
post #827 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by robnix View Post

I've thought about the Lumagen, I'd love to have one in the chain, but my budget this year is slated for new furniture, paint, and flooring for our media room.
Thanks again. If I don't head to the mountains on Saturday I'll give night mode and 3D a shot.

Love to see what you come \up with for 3D. I haven't seen anyone post files yet.
post #828 of 2130
Out of curiosity and because it came with the TV; I booked a BB ISF calibration. Not expecting to be impressed but thought I'd see what's up.
post #829 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by Glashub View Post

Out of curiosity and because it came with the TV; I booked a BB ISF calibration. Not expecting to be impressed but thought I'd see what's up.

Since you can reset everything back to defaults if they send out a poor calibrator, It can't hurt to see how they do. Just make sure they do all the work in the user menu and not the service menu. I'd have them stop if they go into the service menu and be done with it.
post #830 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by robnix View Post

Since you can reset everything back to defaults if they send out a poor calibrator, It can't hurt to see how they do. Just make sure they do all the work in the user menu and not the service menu. I'd have them stop if they go into the service menu and be done with it.

Thanks for the heads up about that. Good advice I knew nothing about.
post #831 of 2130
Are there discrete remote codes for the various display modes on the Panasonics (ISF Day, THX Cinema, Vivid, etc.)? I have found myself mostly on ISF Day because it's button pushing to switch.
post #832 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by rogo View Post

Are there discrete remote codes for the various display modes on the Panasonics (ISF Day, THX Cinema, Vivid, etc.)? I have found myself mostly on ISF Day because it's button pushing to switch.

I don''t mind the button pushing but that would be nice to have!
post #833 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by scirica View Post

I don''t mind the button pushing but that would be nice to have!

I've looked and found codes for just about everything except the picture modes.
post #834 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by robnix View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by scirica View Post

I don''t mind the button pushing but that would be nice to have!

I've looked and found codes for just about everything except the picture modes.
Have you found discrete power on/off codes?

My old TV had them, so all my macros on the remote had a "TV power on" near the beginning of the macro, and this did nothing if the TV was already on.
post #835 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by nabsltd View Post

Have you found discrete power on/off codes?
My old TV had them, so all my macros on the remote had a "TV power on" near the beginning of the macro, and this did nothing if the TV was already on.

I use a URC MX-700 and the codes that loaded from the complete control program included discrete on/off, so they do exist. I just wouldn't know how to extract them from my remote for use somewhere else.
post #836 of 2130
@robnix

Followup on using your settings, I used AVS 709 to check my contrast and brightness under our normal room lighting during most of our tv viewing. Had to make some minor adjustments for the room. Checked the greyscale and color steps and they were right on. Getting a really nice PQ now with your settings and the minor adjustments needed for the room lighting.

Even my wife noticed a difference after I applied your settings and the needed changes and asked if I did something to it... I asked why and she said the picture looked alot better. Approved by both my wife and myself. Thanks again for providing your settings. smile.gif
post #837 of 2130
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7thSeal View Post

@robnix
Followup on using your settings, I used AVS 709 to check my contrast and brightness under our normal room lighting during most of our tv viewing. Had to make some minor adjustments for the room. Checked the greyscale and color steps and they were right on. Getting a really nice PQ now with your settings and the minor adjustments needed for the room lighting.
Even my wife noticed a difference after I applied your settings and the needed changes and asked if I did something to it... I asked why and she said the picture looked alot better. Approved by both my wife and myself. Thanks again for providing your settings. smile.gif

smile.gif Awesome, passing the WAF means a lot!
post #838 of 2130
I will get my VT50 tomorrow.

Can someone recommend the the best breakin DVD or sd card?


Cheers
post #839 of 2130
The slides can be found in one of these threads as "break-in slides" or over on the ControlCal Calibration Forums. Just put them on a usb stick, plug it in and launch the slide show after turning down the brightness a bit or putting it in THX mode. I still believe the best break-in is running full screen movies (HBO HD) is a good choice. The slides just give you a way to accelerate break-in by running them for hours.

Many will tell you just turn it on and enjoy it, being wary of heavily logo'd TV shows (i.e. ESPN) or less than full screen movies for the first 100 hours.

Enjoy
post #840 of 2130
My 2 cents. I just tried robnix's settings briefly and his are pretty similar to wmwilker's day setting but on my set I like wmwilker's color more. Robnix's seem a bit muted to me.
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