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The SuperNoVA Theater - Planning & Build - Page 5

post #121 of 156
Thread Starter 
So my friend posted me to this amazing sale on Polk speakers. Literally half off...around 40% off amazon prices. So now I am kind of scrambling to decide whether I should buy speakers or wait. The problem is I don't know the first thing about speakers. I'm not an audiophile and I am sure the Polk RTiA series will be good enough but the problem is I have no idea what size to buy. They 2-3 different sizes of each kind of speaker. Also, I am planning on buying bookshelfs for the front but these are so cheap should I consider floorstanding? I don't know if they will fit into my floorplan.

Fronts: RTI A3, RTI A5, or RTI A7?
Centers: CSi A4 or CSi A6?
Surrounds: F/XiA4 or FXiA6?

I noticed that there are a couple of "systems" for sale on amazon...the RTIA5 system bundles the A4 center and surrounds, and the A7 system bundles the A6 center and surrounds.
Edited by ozziegt - 8/17/13 at 7:57am
post #122 of 156
If you are planning on an acoustically transparent screen don't waste your money on a center channel speaker, just get 3 identical front speakers, Laying a speaker on it's side is an audio compromise to get something to that fits above or below a TV.

As for Polk speakers, My personal opinion is that they are good for living rooms and a single row of seating. I recommend something more robust for a multi-row theater. I prefer to build my own using compression drivers with wave guides (versus dome tweeters) and woofers that you would find in commercial theaters. You may want to consider SEOS kits at DIYsoundgroup.com
Edited by BIGmouthinDC - 8/17/13 at 8:42am
post #123 of 156
Thread Starter 
I don't think I have room for an AT screen unless I did in-wall speakers behind it. That's pretty expensive, no?

The deal was too good to pass up so I ended up buying a pair of RTI A7 towers, 2 pairs of FXiA6 surrounds (I'm not even sure if I am going to do 5.1 or 7.1) and a CSi A6 center. If I decide that these aren't what I need, I am pretty confident that if I can sell them for what I paid. The amazon price for everything was $2000, I paid $1200. For now they will sit in my basement.

Big, the idea of building my own speakers sounds pretty intimidating but the costs look very tempting. smile.gif Yet another thing for me to figure out.
post #124 of 156
Thread Starter 
So I got a delivery today:

If these don't light a fire to get it done, I don't think much will. New baby is coming in 2 months so that makes it a challenge. It seems that there is something else more important every weekend. smile.gif

Anyway, would 7.1 be worth it with the size & layout I have planned, or should I stick to 5.1? More of a philosophical question at this point...as Big says, I need to just start building.
post #125 of 156
Thread Starter 
Big update today:

Just a couple of finishing touches and I think I will be ready for the framing inspection. Fireblocking is still really vague so I am trying to figure that one out.

Some pictures of how I did the isolated framing in a couple of spots.
Blocking between joists:

This was against the back wall and could only attach the blocking to a single joist:

This part of the wall got dangerously close to the joist, but I am OK I think. This is above the closet door and it is so solid I don't think I need a clip here, but I put one in just to maintain the 48" spacing recommended by The Soundproofing Company.

Overall, I'm pretty excited...can't wait to get past the inspection and move on to the next step (electrical I guess?), but I might install some shelving in the closet first.
post #126 of 156
Thread Starter 
OK so it looks like the county website says that the close-in inspection is done before framing, which includes mechanical. But from what I have seen most theaters don't do the ventilation until towards the end, so how am I supposed to pass mechanical before framing and insulation?
post #127 of 156
in Fairfax the framing (and fire-stopping), electrical, plumbing and mechanical rough in inspection is combined during the first visit. On electrical, wiring for new circuits wires can be hanging in front of the service panel not yet connected. But boxes need to be in place and grounds finished. No Plates or outlets yet. Duct work can be flex duct hung up in the joist space but not yet connected to anything. You can have coiled up wires that will come through the wall but you need to tell the inspector what they are for like the outlets on the front of the riser , for example, You need to say it like you know what you are doing.

When they are happy you can insulate and get that inspection.

Once you get the go ahead to insulate what happens behind the drywall stays behind the drywall forever a secret between you and the insulation.
Edited by BIGmouthinDC - 9/9/13 at 5:33pm
post #128 of 156
Thread Starter 
I am about to start roughing in the electrical, so I am thinking about outlet placement. After some reading it seems like a good place for the subwoofer will be on the front stage under the screen?

I am planning on putting an outlet around the center of the stage, and I will have 3 outlets around where the riser is. Is it a good idea to place the outlets 12" above where the top of the riser / stage will be?

Some good resources I am using:

This article is a really nice high level overview:

I am using this book as a final guideline:
post #129 of 156
Doesn't sound like your plan meets the spacing guidelines, Yes raise them over stage and riser. Don't forget the putty pads and if you are doing clips and channel on any of the walls you will need to plan ahead for wall thickness, I like the adjustable depth boxes.
post #130 of 156
Thread Starter 
Oh it meets the spacing guidelines. Those aren't the only outlets, they are just the ones I am concerned about. I got the putty pads too.
post #131 of 156
Thread Starter 
So just for the hell of it, here is my outlet plan.

I am going to have 3 circuits:
  1. Lighting (existing 15A)
  2. 15A Receptacles and closet light (new 15A)
  3. 20A A/V Receptacles (existing)

There is already a 20A outlet next to the door....that is going to extend up the right side to two more outlets.
The new 15A circuit is going to come in from the left side of the entrance and circle around that side of the room for the 15A outlets.
The lighting circuit is already in place, I just need to rough in switches for the different zones.

These are the zones for lighting:

1. Riser lighting
2. Seating lighting (sconces or can lights)
3. Stage lighting
4. Snack bar lighting
5. Mood lighting (rope lights in ceiling or something)
6. Ventilation fan(s)

That seems like a lot of zones, doesn't it? I need to research other people's builds and see what they did there.

Edited by ozziegt - 9/19/13 at 7:37pm
post #132 of 156
Thread Starter 
Hmm, I think I can run the lighting and 15A receptacles off one circuit. The lights and fan(s) will use at most 800 watts in a worst-case scenario, probably significantly less than that. Any reason to add another circuit?
post #133 of 156
IMHO planning electrical circuits is never about "just enough"
post #134 of 156
Thread Starter 
Well 800 watts puts it at 44% capacity, which almost half the generally recommended 80%. That is why I asked the question is there any other reason to put the receptacles on another circuit.
post #135 of 156
in 10 years what might you plug into the receptacles?
post #136 of 156
Thread Starter 
Meh, there is a chance in a blue moon I might put a space heater in there if the theater is no longer used as a theater. Very unlikely, and would probably still be OK...but I guess it's pretty easy to wire in another circuit at this point. Better safe than sorry just to save 30 minutes of installing another breaker. So apparently code requires all breakers to be AFCI now? Does that mean I need to switch out the breakers of the existing circuits that I am rewiring as well?
post #137 of 156
That is something you can ask your inspector during your first inspection.
post #138 of 156
Thread Starter 
Thanks big, as always.
post #139 of 156
Thread Starter 
Anyone know what is up with this quintuple stud? Doesn't seem like a good idea to drill through it for the wiring so I am going to go up through the top plate and around through the joists...

post #140 of 156
Thread Starter 
So I'm starting to wonder if I should perhaps hook into the HVAC instead of my original plan of circulating air with the rest of the basement.

Reasons for circulating into rest of basement:

1. The basement has it's own return, so if I push hot air out into the adjacent room it will be circulated when the HVAC runs
2. I can build as much flow as I want into the circulation system
3. I don't have to worry about the heat coming on in the winter and warming up the theater

Reasons for hooking into HVAC:

1. I can run the fan and circulate the air with the rest of the house
2. It would be easy for me to add a return due to the layout of the basement, and there is already ducting I can hook into for supply (after a dead vent, of course)

A really wacky idea:

1. Exhaust hot air out into the basement.
2. Pull cool air from the utility closet where the HVAC currently sits (the utility closet has a vented door).
3. If I need cooler air I can put my portable A/C unit in said utility closet to supply cold air to the theater. The question is what to do with the exhaust from the portable A/C. (I just realized this is probably not a good idea because I have my water heater in that closet).

Edit: The more I think about it, the less I like the portable a/c idea.

post #141 of 156
A hybrid idea: You could run supplies off of the HVAC and exhust via a dead vent into the outer room which has a return.

Use vents with dampers to shut off the supply in the winter as needed. Put the dead vent return fan on a variable controller to throttle that back both heat and cooling as needed.

I did this at the summer fun project out of necessity because of the impossible route needed to add a return.
post #142 of 156
Thread Starter 
Hmm, yeah that does sound like a good option too. Do you think that will be as efficient as running a return? Running a return is pretty easy with my layout, I don't even have to cut anything. There is already a bulkhead in place connecting the utility closet to the theater space. The thing I am concerned about is if I shut off the supply in the winter, where do I get cool air for the theater? Wondering if I would need a dead vent for intake as well which I can use in the winter.
post #143 of 156
OK. plan B-2.0. build a dead vent for both the supply and reutrn connecting the room to the adjacent space. Add some supply booster ducts feedinging into the dead vent supply. Equip those booster ducts with dampers so that in the winter no hot air is pulled in via the dead vent. but in the summer you can draw in air cooler than the outside room. This way inside the theater you only have the one set of supplies and returns not two set of supplies.
post #144 of 156
Thread Starter 
Hmm yes that does sound like a good plan. Are there any code requirements for this kind of work?
post #145 of 156
Probably, Do it after you get an OK to drywall and before the final inspection and keep your mouth shut. The biggest item will be that there needs to be access panels to remove and replace any fan motors used for dead vents if they are going to be built inside something.
post #146 of 156
Thread Starter 
So I was thinking about sconces on the walls for lighting, but I haven't been able to find any pictures of home theaters with sconces and exposed speakers. I'm thinking it might not work, because the sconces will be competing with the speakers for the wall space. Anyone know of a theater which has sconces without in-wall speakers? The real solution is to hide the surround speakers in columns and put the sconces on the columns. If I line up the columns so that the speaker lines up with the back row, will this be a good placement for listeners in the front row? I can't really put them any further forward, otherwise the column will obstruct entrance into the back row.
post #147 of 156
Thread Starter 
I think we will probably just ditch the sconces and do some recessed lighting. 3 or 4 cans above the seating area should be sufficient.


So we'll see when I get to do some work. redface.gif
Edited by ozziegt - 10/17/13 at 7:15pm
post #148 of 156
post #149 of 156
Thread Starter 
Thanks Big. No progress as of late...my car needs a timing belt change so that has taken any shreds of spare time I have right now. Anyway, so my dad is coming and he wants to help me install the DC-4 clips into the foundation wall. I was going to use tapcons but he doesn't trust them and instead wants to drill holes, put in some studs and grout them in place. Anyone have any thoughts?
post #150 of 156
He must be retired and have time to kill. What ever you do make sure you preserve the isolation feature of the clips. A well built wall connected to adjoining walls really doesn't need a lot to keep it in place, there is no weight to support so the clips are just to keep the walls vertical in the mid section and the overall structure from racking. Sometimes you need to humor your help otherwise they might stop helping. I never thought of grout as being as strong as a properly sized screw in cured concrete maybe he has a special technique.
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