I know nothing about projectors - Page 2

One of the good things about da-lite high power screens is that they don't show the waves in the screen that you'll get with almost any pull down screen or tripod screen.

Hi again. If I decided in no 3D then what are the options on a $2000 budget? And what is the Nd filter used for? Remember I like the Soap Opera Effect or a projector with 120 hz refresh rate or more.
Thanks.

Look at the Epson 8700UB, it should be around $1500 or a JVC RS40 if AVS still have the B-Stock special for $1700. Also, I saw that a Benq W7000 is close to $2000, but the Benq W6000 is almost the same without 3D for around $1500.

Is the Optoma brand the only who makes projectors with >= 120Hz Refresh Rate?
Im reading a lot between HD33 or Epson 3010 and both are great condenders; Each one has is pros/cons. I would prefer the Epson 3010 IF only got >= 120Hz; but seems its not.

What is the next step model between HD33 and 3010? And what are the new features? I went to the Optoma Website and there is no comparison charts at all.

To quote Dylan, "There is too much confusion" ... about 3D projector refresh rates. All the affordable- under $3,000- 3D projectors are 60hz per eye, or 120 hz total when in 3D mode. Yes, the Epson has faster panels than that, but don't be fooled. LCD projectors must throw a black image between frames while DLP projectors do not have to. All of them are essentially equal in terms of refresh rates and frame rates.

DLP projectors have a reputation for ghost-free fast refresh in 3D. That is deserved, but probably more due to their glasses sync protocol than to any difference in refresh rate of the projector. DLP Link glasses do a great job of staying perfectly synced to the projectors' refresh, while LCD projectors' glasses tend to need adjustment to keep them synced perfectly.

So, the Optoma 33 has a less bright 3D picture but less ghosting than the Epson 3010. If you want a screen 120" or larger, you will probably want the Epson, otherwise, it is a close toss up. If you cannot abide ghosting or crosstalk in 3D, go DLP. If you want bright, vibrant color, the Epson is king. Either projector is great, seriously great.

@JAVYGONX
I would go with the B-STOCK JVC RS-40 and FAST before they sell out, you still get ok 3D for many movies from the JVC, but you get ABSOLUTELY mind-blowing 2D quality. I mean the B-STOCK RS-40 absolutely destroys the 2D PQ of the Optoma hd33 and Epson 3010, it is night and day. The JVC can hang and sometimes even beat projectors costing $5000+. It does also beat the Epson 8700ub by a margin. The RS-40's 3D is not bad, heck on dark movies in 3D I actually prefer it over some of the ghost free projectors. It is just that in really bright movies (which is most 3d), there are going to be scenes which ghost. It doesn't however ruin the experience for me, and I can wait on getting another 3D projector until later because my JVC RS-45 satisfies me completely for now (in most cases), except for gaming (in which I use a cheap DLP for that), and some occasional yellow push in the color (which can be fixed with HTPC or VP once I get to it).

3D is really cool sometimes, but the amount of content is still lame for now, and it's very expensive to buy the disks. To try to put this into perspective, I watched Resident evil 3d (boring movie, good 3d) and any ghosting is very rare on the JVC and hard to see, it's great. In another movie like IMAX: Under the Sea, it's a little more ghosting on some scenes, but still bareable and still fine. There was a scene where a fish (CARP I think) was right up to my nose and I swear I was a little freaked out (kept telling myself, no this fish is not real). So 3D can be awesome, but it's also not bad on the JVC, maybe on like 25% of titles it is just really bad, and on 50% of titles somewhat (that is my guess), but probably half the titles you barely notice any ghosting (as long as you aren't streaming SBS from Vudu or watching the crappy cable channel, talking all Bluray here).

The Optoma hd33 has better 3D and FI than the RS-40, the Optoma is a tiny bit brighter (not much), Optoma easily wins in gaming, but the JVC kicks it to the curb in most other PQ respects. For SCI FI type movies especially, there is a world of difference. We are talking about a $3000ish projector vs. a $1500ish projector, and the difference does show in most content. We are talking 50,000:1 true on/off native contrast vs. 2,500:1 on/off on the Optoma (and probably even less on the Epson 3010). Even though the 8700ub on the other hand can do high dynamic contrast, in real world terms the black levels still are a tad behind the JVC, but the JVC is more film-like as well (JVC has POP/PUNCH and film-look at same time, that is why I love it).

Most 3D projectors in 2D mode (for all practical purposes) are basically equivalent to 120hz since I am guessing most will do 5:5 pulldown (or similar equivalent) when doing the 24px5 algorithm. As far as 3D ghosting, the refresh rate isn't a perfectly known measure, but the faster panels are helping for whatever reason, but it isn't a 1:1 known relationship. What is probably known is that one reason DLP's ghost less is because of the lack of pixel response blur (separate from frame rate refresh speeds), as a DLP can switch a pixel from full on/off 500 times or more faster than the other techs, whereas the other techs may create a slight trailing on the pixel response (hence some overlay like effect as in the pixel is partially in old state or new state or inbetween).

Thanks for that. The 120hz for me is more to get a smoother image than a 60hz/60hz left/right on 3D. I own a 3D Led Tv and honestly I like turning on the smooth (240hz - Soap Opera Effect) in which I like it a lot even more than my own 2011 Samsung Plasma 3D TV. I heard Optoma has something called "Pure Video"? So Im looking same or better smoothnesss on projectors and have no idea which otber projectors offers such feature. The screen size I will set will be no more than 100" 16:9.

I will look forward that JVC .... Thanks. Btw, what is a b-stock and what is Fi?

Almost all of them you are looking at offers some type of Frame Interpolation, which is what you are referring to.

B-Stock is a MFR recertified projector from the forum owner (AVS), it comes with the same 2-year MFR warranty, as well as you can return it or exchange it for defects if it ships to you defective.

The JVC does have FI, but I cannot say if you will like the JVC's FI, the Optoma hd33 and Epson 8700ub has the better FI, but overall I would think you would prefer the JVC for most movies (because it still has FI and it has far better contrast). Plus you said you were a 3D-dabbler, kind of like me, and the JVC is actually very good in some 3D for us dabblers, in which the Epson 8700ub has NO 3D, but the Optoma wins there (but Optoma lacks contrast for some darker movies).

Thanks coderguy... But I still have no idea what is "FI". What stands for? I read projectors with FI and with DI; but I have no idea what's that about!!... Can you expalin me what is that? Also; what is the "keystone" used for?

Frame Interpolation, that smooth motion effect you refer to is when the video device (TV or projector) adds extra frames between the regular frames. Think of it like in grade school when you drew animated images on notebook paper and shuffled the paper, the algorithm guesses how the frames between those pages should look between each shuffle and then inserts extras in an attempt to smooth the motion out.

Normally with the interpolation turned OFF on a higher HZ projector (120hz+), the projector will instead do some PLAIN form or 5:5 pulldown, as opposed to a modified version with FI which is drawing extras instead of just repeating existing ones. 5:5 pulldown (no Interpolation) means taking a 24p signal and multiplying it by 5 and not guessing or creating new frames, but just repeating existing frames by 5x.

i saw that sears has bulbs now. the ones i saw were the exact ones that you get from optoma etc. so there real? what do you mean fake? i take it there's so bulbs that are not truly meant for the projector it says it is so the bulb burns out quick?

Some of the bulbs at Sears are outsourced to vendors different than the original bulbs, they are OEM-equivalents, but some are real.

well there prices on some are good. assuming those are the right ones. that's where people should go. lol like i am gonna be getting me a acer h5360. and the bulbs at sears are 130 bucks.

Just a word on screens - my theater is a combination den/theater/ with a mirrored home bar in the corner. The walls and ceiling are white. The screen itself is motorized and comes down in front of a bay window, and thereby blocks out much of the light.

Because of my particular ambient light environment, I went with the Elite gray screen, motorized to retract it and return to the den environment. My Elite screen is not tensioned, because my budget wouldn't allow it at the time. After five years I have no waviness at all.

I say that because I live in a hot climate, the sun's rays peek through the bay window onto the back of the screen, and my home theater components (satellite tv receiver, c-band dish mover, home theater computer, vcr, BluRay player) are directly below the screen on a shelf. So I get heat from these sources thermalling up around the screen. Still, I have no waviness in this screen. It is not a top of the line, expensive screen by any measure. It is a budget screen. Am I lucky? Maybe. Don't know.

Just so you know that you can sometimes make do with the less expensive options and still have a great viewing experience. I am.