HDMI Splitter outputting 2.0 only

Sounds like the TV is capable of 2.0 only and splitter is working exactly as it should. You will get the highest level of sound all sink devices are capable of. IOW you won't get 2.0 to the TV and something else to the receiver.

you would think so... BUT there are things in the universe that keep things as they were before... :-) just as some computers (and routers and such) need to be restarted to cause change so does the hdmi system and it has to be done in a "well defined" fashion. Normally, that is going from the sink (power up first) and then going towards the source. Too bad they don't have a "simple flush command" to cause a "well defined" result. I am sure others will expand on the required technique but you are likely always going to have some problems using a splitter with "not equally capable sources".

...also many receivers have options to send sound that is compatible for the AVR *or* send sound that is compatible for the HDTV. On Denon higher end, the option is "Amp" or "TV" under the HDMI setup menu. I am unsure what it would be called for Anthem, if it has the option.

Just keep in mind through all this that your HDMI cable can only have one audio stream at any time. So, it will either work for the 2.0 TV or the 5.1/7.1 AVR. Unless you send 2.0, it can never work for both.

With HDMI it's always 'best practice' to power Off (not to Standby) all connected devices any time you are making a physical change in the connectivity.

In theory you'r kit should be able to signal and reconfigure Source Video & Audio to suit the active Sync - in practice it mostly never works correctly!

Does your Switch/Da have any form of EDID Management or option to update its Firmware?

Joe

OK, screwy Chinese design with lousy manual. From the manual, it seems you have two options for audio, either 2 channel (STD LED lit), or whatever is supported by the device plugged into Output 1/TV (TV LED lit). It appears that you have to press the EDID button for 3 seconds to record the EDID from whatever is on Output 1/TV. Your AVR will need to be plugged into Output 1/TV and you will have to press the EDID button to memorize its EDID. If after successfully recording the AVR's EDID you still don't get better than 2 channel audio, then it seems to me that the problem is at the AVR and it is passing through the attached projector's audio capabilities instead of presenting its own.

Not short of inserting some active electronics. Some projectors have limited audio capabilites. Others like yours have none. I would expect it to report that. The AVR it is attached to should just report its own capabilities back to the splitter/switch.

No, from what I understand from the manual, it memorizes the EDID of whatever is on Output 1/TV. That is why the AVR has to be on that output. Just to clarify, it seems that this splitter/switch does not compare the EDIDs of the two sinks attached to it and select the highest common audio format like most splitters. It seems to have just two options: 2 channel, or whatever is supported by the device on Output 1/TV once it is memorized.

HDCP has nothing to do with OP's problem.

Had the OP's problem been HDCP, they would have received no audio, not just 2.0 sound instead of 5.1. HDCP is designed to prevent unauthorized transmissions, not change unauthorized transmissions. If the OP was getting no signal, then we also could have included bad cable, incompatible systems and a few other items as possible causes.

So, this is an EDID problem and the OP has all of the tools needed to fix their problem, they just need to use the correct output port and follow their owner's manual (or at least Colm's explanation of their poorly written owner's manual).

I've seen some of the more expensive matrix switchers not include EDID spoofing while some of the more medium priced ones include it. Of course the HDMI Detective is less then $100 on Amazon last time I checked, which makes it one of the least expensive ways of "tricking" the EDID.