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NHL Playoffs are better on "COOL" temp setting!

post #1 of 14
Thread Starter 
How many of us have been told to set our pdps to 'Warm 1 or2' for regular viewing? This makes all the difference for regular hd & blu-ray content, but for NHL Hockey action it makes the ICE look more beige than pristine white.

Try setting your temp setting to either "Cool 1 or 2" & the ice actually looks better & not dirty looking.

After the game simply return it to your regular 'warm' setting.....
post #2 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by leftyguitar1963 View Post

How many of us have been told to set our pdps to 'Warm 1 or2' for regular viewing? This makes all the difference for regular hd & blu-ray content, but for NHL Hockey action it makes the ICE look more beige than pristine white.

Try setting your temp setting to either "Cool 1 or 2" & the ice actually looks better & not dirty looking.

After the game simply return it to your regular 'warm' setting.....

This is an optical illusion, just like laundry detergent and toothpaste... They both tint whites slightly blue, which tricks our brain into thinking it is "whiter".
post #3 of 14
Thread Starter 
True, but the ice still looks better blue/white, than the muddy beige white of warm1/2.
post #4 of 14
Well lefty... you gotta keep in mind that in real life that ice isn't bright/blue. It's only when you view an LCD in torch mode and your UT50 set to Warm2 side by side will you say "Oh man that the ice on that lcd looks way too blue and unnatural". In a game after a couple minutes of skating the ice turns dark and murky. Take a look at ice from your freezer and tell me how 'bright' it really is.

Also the bright white jerseys on the screen everywhere make the ice seem duller than it actually is. So your brain is tricked... in a sense you feel as if you getting 'duped' using Warm2. But it's really showing you reality.

But all that aside, do what you think is best.
post #5 of 14
I am one as well that sees colors more realistic in cool mode.

I have always preferred cool to warm.

It works for me too.
post #6 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by leftyguitar1963 View Post

True, but the ice still looks better blue/white, than the muddy beige white of warm1/2.

/opinion. To me, whites look better... white. If grayscale is calibrated properly, white should be white, not beige.
post #7 of 14
Thread Starter 
I've got a budget panny(u54, limited settings to work with). I can't dial in grayscale, if @ all, to that of a higher budget pdp that has advanced cal settings..
post #8 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by leftyguitar1963 View Post

I've got a budget panny(u54, limited settings to work with). I can't dial in grayscale, if @ all, to that of a higher budget pdp that has advanced cal settings..

Greyscale can still be corrected, granted you need a meter and software and it is done in the service menu but you can make significant improvements with just cuts and drives.
post #9 of 14
I'm having some odd issues with my set and Hockey. When the camera follows the players up and down the ice, it auto adjusts the brightness - I have triple checked my settings and made sure eco/energy saving/auto brightness settings are off.

The set I'm using is a Samsung PN51E550 - if anyone has a fix for this please let me know, it's bugging me. I'm currently using the "Standard" option which has the energy star logo next to it in the menu UI. I'm starting to think that the set forces auto brightness in this setting.
post #10 of 14
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Killyamomz View Post

I'm having some odd issues with my set and Hockey. When the camera follows the players up and down the ice, it auto adjusts the brightness - I have triple checked my settings and made sure eco/energy saving/auto brightness settings are off.

The set I'm using is a Samsung PN51E550 - if anyone has a fix for this please let me know, it's bugging me. I'm currently using the "Standard" option which has the energy star logo next to it in the menu UI. I'm starting to think that the set forces auto brightness in this setting.

try custom or another setting, anything but STD & see if that rids u of the problem...........with that said, "GO KINGS GO!!!!" The Devils have had their fun, it's the KING's Time. We're NOT repeating '93.
post #11 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by leftyguitar1963 View Post

True, but the ice still looks better blue/white, than the muddy beige white of warm1/2.

Cool 1 or Normal are ok in my book. Warm 2 is way over my limit in pursuing the "natural look."

But, to each his/her own.
post #12 of 14
Picture set to STANDARD and COOL with a few other tweaks. MOVIE mode with WARM 2 looks as though there is an amber back light in every scene and everybody has liver disease.
post #13 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Killyamomz View Post

I'm having some odd issues with my set and Hockey. When the camera follows the players up and down the ice, it auto adjusts the brightness - I have triple checked my settings and made sure eco/energy saving/auto brightness settings are off.


The set I'm using is a Samsung PN51E550 - if anyone has a fix for this please let me know, it's bugging me. I'm currently using the "Standard" option which has the energy star logo next to it in the menu UI. I'm starting to think that the set forces auto brightness in this setting.


"Standard" Mode is not good.
I've tried calibrating in Standard and nothing seems to work very well.
Use 'Movie' and turn the cell to all the way up and adjust the Contrast and Brightness to you liking.
post #14 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by TopShelf17 View Post

I am one as well that sees colors more realistic in cool mode.


I have always preferred cool to warm.


It works for me too.


Try watching 'Ice Road Truckers' on History chan HD.
White ice yes, dirty white yes.
Blue ice in water shots and early morning sunrise or sunsets.
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