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BenQ W7000 or Optoma HD83(00)??

post #1 of 12
5/22/12 at 12:34pm
Thread Starter 
Hi Guys!


Did anyone have a chance to compare these 2 3D capable DLP projectors??

I am leaning more towards the Optoma, as it is more quiet, better design and has to me a more favourable throw rate.

But how about black level, dynamic range etc ?

I have a 92" 1.3 gain Da-Lite screen, so they should be bright enough in 3D, although I was not entirely happy with brightness when I saw the Optoma demoed on a 1.0 gain screen (do not know about lamp settings on the projector)

I can get them here for these prices (at today's exchange rate):

The Optoma HD83(00) is about 3090$ without glasses and without glasses. The BenQ W7000 is about 2900$ including 2 pair of glasses.

So, compared to what I see their going rate for on the US market, it seems that the BenQ is more expensive here and the Optoma cheaper(??)
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post #2 of 12
5/22/12 at 12:37pm
I have read most (if not all) the reviews of the hd8300, and they are all very conflicting. I have not seen anyone do a comparison in this forum, although I did push for one but no-one had the unit.

My thoughts are it is a guess at this point somewhat, but I would expect the hd8300 to have better contrast than the w7000 from what I know so far. The hd8300 does NOT have as good contrast as the older NON-3D hd8600.

For 3D brightness, they are most likely close, some reviews would suggest the hd8300 can use torch mode for 3D which might make it as bright or a tiny bit brighter in 3D over the Benq, whereas the Benq w7000 has to use the 3D forced mode which disallows the Benq from doing a 3D torch mode. However, in a 3D lumens for lumens mode, the Benq will probably produce a more color accurate image as the 3D mode on the Benq is farther from its torch mode.

The Benq w7000 is definitely brighter in 2D however, and quite a lot brighter at that. The Benq has more flexible center-based vertical LENS shift which makes it able to get HIGH GAIN from the low-cost Da-Lite HP 2.4 gain screens, so in that sense the Benq is brighter in 3D when pairing it with a DA-Lite HP screen.
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post #3 of 12
5/22/12 at 1:22pm
If you are mainly thinking of 3D, you should also consider the Optoma hd33, it probably has less RBE than the Benq, the brightness is about the same in 3D, and the hd33 is probably a lot cheaper. The Benq may do better contrast with the IRIS in 2D, but in 3D my guess is you would not notice, and the Optoma hd33 hangs with the Benq just fine and might even beat it sometimes since the hd33 has a higher Native On/Off.
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post #4 of 12
5/22/12 at 2:18pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

I have read most (if not all) the reviews of the hd8300, and they are all very conflicting. I have not seen anyone do a comparison in this forum, although I did push for one but no-one had the unit.

My thoughts are it is a guess at this point somewhat, but I would expect the hd8300 to have better contrast than the w7000 from what I know so far. The hd8300 does NOT have as good contrast as the older NON-3D hd8600.

For 3D brightness, they are most likely close, some reviews would suggest the hd8300 can use torch mode for 3D which might make it as bright or a tiny bit brighter in 3D over the Benq, whereas the Benq w7000 has to use the 3D forced mode which disallows the Benq from doing a 3D torch mode. However, in a 3D lumens for lumens mode, the Benq will probably produce a more color accurate image as the 3D mode on the Benq is farther from its torch mode.

The Benq w7000 is definitely brighter in 2D however, and quite a lot brighter at that. The Benq has more flexible center-based vertical LENS shift which makes it able to get HIGH GAIN from the low-cost Da-Lite HP 2.4 gain screens, so in that sense the Benq is brighter in 3D when pairing it with a DA-Lite HP screen.

What is this "Torch" mode? I am sure that on my 1.3 gain white 92" screen, it is more than bright enough in 2D, but the idea of having some super-power mode only for 3D is interesting.

I have not seen the HD86(00), but the successor HD87, which seems to be only here in europe.. (and I like it - it made me consider DLP)
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post #5 of 12
5/22/12 at 2:24pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

If you are mainly thinking of 3D, you should also consider the Optoma hd33, it probably has less RBE than the Benq, the brightness is about the same in 3D, and the hd33 is probably a lot cheaper. The Benq may do better contrast with the IRIS in 2D, but in 3D my guess is you would not notice, and the Optoma hd33 hangs with the Benq just fine and might even beat it sometimes since the hd33 has a higher Native On/Off.

I ruled out the HD33, as it does not have the lens shift and the bigger brother HD83 only cost like 60% more.

But I have to admit, that seeing the HD33 demoed in 3D got my curious about 3D and DLP. I am going to do 95%+ 2D, but still nice to have 3D.
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post #6 of 12
5/22/12 at 2:47pm
Keep in mind that the Lens Shift on the hd8300 is very limited, but the lens shift is more flexible on the w7000, especially if shelf mounting. I'm thinking the brightness difference between the Optoma hd8300 and Benq shouldn't be an issue on your small screen size. Torch mode just means the maximum useable output of a projector without it being too ridiculous looking (at least watchable). The point being, even if the Optoma hd8300 allows torch mode in 3D, it still will only be near the equal of the w7000 for 3D lumens, or maybe a little better (do not have enough data to know for sure).
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post #7 of 12
5/22/12 at 11:05pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Keep in mind that the Lens Shift on the hd8300 is very limited, but the lens shift is more flexible on the w7000, especially if shelf mounting. I'm thinking the brightness difference between the Optoma hd8300 and Benq shouldn't be an issue on your small screen size. Torch mode just means the maximum useable output of a projector without it being too ridiculous looking (at least watchable). The point being, even if the Optoma hd8300 allows torch mode in 3D, it still will only be near the equal of the w7000 for 3D lumens, or maybe a little better (do not have enough data to know for sure).

Thanks for this information. I was under impression that the W7000 and the Epson 5010/9000 was no 1 in 3D light output.

It is really strange the variation between reviews on the HD83/8300 - but at least the price is very good here in Europe on the HD83 compared to the US - with the JVCs, it is the other way around :-D - way more expensive than the Optomas
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post #8 of 12
5/23/12 at 9:52am
I don't understand why the 83(00) had lens shift with a fixed offset. It pretty much negates the usability of the feature.
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post #9 of 12
5/23/12 at 10:09am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toknowshita View Post

I don't understand why the 83(00) had lens shift with a fixed offset. It pretty much negates the usability of the feature.

+1, I think it's one of the reasons this didn't turn out to be a big seller. The mounting restrictions could be a turn off given the cost of the projector.

With the DC3 and a good lens, this should technically be one of the best 3D projectors out in this price range.
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post #10 of 12
7/11/12 at 10:34am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toknowshita View Post

I don't understand why the 83(00) had lens shift with a fixed offset. It pretty much negates the usability of the feature.

Do I understand correctly that the Hd83(00) MUST be place below OR above screen edge???
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post #11 of 12
7/11/12 at 11:06am
Yes, 2.5 to 5 inches above or below is the min offset for about 100" screen, max is like 15" maybe (I forgot). You can fudge an install a bit and get a few extra inches, and make it even with the top and bottom of the screen, let your screen borders absorb the error. That's what I do with my VS, I barely ever even notice the difference (you can if you look for it).

This PJ is not in stock as refurbs anymore for the time being (that is what I was told).
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post #12 of 12
7/11/12 at 11:38am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Yes, 2.5 to 5 inches above or below is the min offset for about 100" screen, max is like 15" maybe (I forgot). You can fudge an install a bit and get a few extra inches, and make it even with the top and bottom of the screen, let your screen borders absorb the error. That's what I do with my VS, I barely ever even notice the difference (you can if you look for it).
This PJ is not in stock as refurbs anymore for the time being (that is what I was told).

Thanks man - this is a bit of "bummer" :-(

I would for sure choose the Hd83 over the W7000, as it only cost 175$ more here and had the RF glasses.

I was just looking at wall mount "arms" where I could hang it upside down. My ceiling has been "lowered" and it has some "air pockets" inside, so I can not without a lot of trouble do a ceiling mount.
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