Panasonic AR100 or Optoma HD23 ?

Optoma TH1060p 1980x1080 DLP w/4500 lumens

Use a medium dark gray surface and with the O's lumen output and resolution, you'll forget how much trouble your room has been giving you......quickly.


Note:
Sitting in a Comfort Inn in Witchita, KS at the Courtesy Office PC. Inroute to Seattle via Denver....by Car....coming from Memphis. dog tired...need sleep...and what am I doing....?

Checking AVS for posts that need answering.

Sheesh. It's a terminal case fur shur.....

I am looking for the same answers as the OP. I've read up as much as I can but I can't seem to find anything about how to judge ambient light and what lumen output I might need. Was looking at the HD23 thinking it would be bright enough, but not sure now reading MM's reply. I have a french door in my room with blinds and a very large sliding glass door with blinds. I want to be able to watch football games during the day and movies and such at night.

If you don't have a problem with DLP rainbows and need a very bright projector then go for MM's recommendation.

Read the reviews on Amazon, oftentimes real-world use is a better indicator of a projector's abilities.

http://www.amazon.com/Optoma-TH1060P-Definition-1080P-projector/product-reviews/B0054NCXHG/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

I have never owned a projector and looking to buy one, so I don't have clue if I will have a problem with the rainbows. That is my problem, I don't know if I need a very bright projector or not. I am trying to figure out if the 2500 lumens of the HD23 will be plenty or if I need to step up like MM suggested.

does the viewsonic pro8200 fit in this discussion? love the lamp life specs on it...and the price.

If the light that leaks around / through those blinds is intense (...the windows are facing south...) then much of what you can expect performance wise will depend upon your screen's size and the PJ's positioning (Throw distance)

Simply put, after calibration and on Low lamp, the 1060 would still be an order of magnitude brighter than the 23. No real reason to even compare the two.

On the other hand, the 23 can do a great job on a reasonable sized screen when dealing with almost anything akin to reasonable "non-directed" ambient light levels. On the other hand, if you can see the pattern of your Blinds on the wall where the Screen will be, you'd be better off with the 1060 Bomb. The 23... it's more easily corrected "color-wise" via calibration, and absolutely it's lamp's life expectancy is quite a bit better. It's also quieter.

Simply put, the 1060 has the horsepower to make any concerns vanish, especially when you mate it up with the right screen surface.
With the HD23 you'll have to be more exacting in your Screen choice as well as light control.
Edited by MississippiMan - 7/13/12 at 11:46am

Not in the running unless you have significant control of ambient light. and choose the correct screen size / surface. That doesn't mean you need "complete" control, but judicious use of Ceiling Cans on dimmers and w/ Sheilds (Eyeball or Wall Wash louvers) or opaque Curtain treatments (...or Velcro tabs at the curtain edges closest to the screen...) can make it a viable choice.

The room is about 20x23 and I am wanting at least a 120" screen ( was going to do a DIY spandex screen). The sliding glass door is facing southwest and the french door is north east. The blinds shut pretty tight but of course light comes in around the ends. I'm wanting to watch football games with the lights on in the room, but at the same time I'd like to be able to watch a movie in there at night in the dark without being blinded by too bright of a projector.

jsw5620,

You really should add the Panny AR100u to your list of considerations. It's pretty much a "Middle of the Road" choice between the TH1060 & HD23.

With it's 2800 lumen & 50K:1 Contrast w/Lens Shift, it's a sure bet that RBE isn't gonna be an issue, and on Low lamp at Night, while still being vibrant, it won't be excruciatingly bright.

Was there a reason it's not on your list? I've employed it before for a Church setting (154" diagonal) with lot'sa light....lot'sa I'm saying. Of course I was using a High Contrast SF paint on top a old Fixed 4:3 Screen, but do the reasoning. 2800 lumens. 154" Diagonal Dark Gray screen. HIGH ambient light. No RBE....period. Super easy installation. If it can easily handle that.....?

All things considering, it might just be your best option out of all of 'em.

Least expensive too!

I know I've waxed on/off about the TH1060, but if such inhumane amounts of Lumen output are not needed, the Panny would easily be a second choice.

I have been looking at the panny as well. I have been reading up on the pros and cons of LCD vs DLP and I am just not knowledgeable enough to make a decision.