VT50 Calibration - Page 4

Agreed. I don't really follow the recommendations but set it to a level that's comfortable in my viewing environment. I set my 55LH90 to 40fL but find that 35fL is more than enough for my 60ST50 (ST50 replaced my LH90 in my HT room/basement).

Hi, today I calibrated my 65vt50 europe model for the first time. Im using chromapure with an i1 display 3 and an i1 pro 2 spectro. It's amazing how relatively easily it is to get grayscale, gamma and color correct. What really bugs me though is the capped brightness in the pro isf mode. I have my contrast at max now, but it is still dimm. Can someone tell me how the pro's do this? Also, I could do whitebalance in the THX mode through the service menu, but on my display gamma and color are really off. Why did they cap the brightness anyway? Whats the point? To make sure the THX has more pop?

How many of you guys are using a powered usb hub on your laptops in order to maintain correct voltage to your colormeter or spectrophotometer?

Doing some research, I find that the i1Pro and the i1Pro2 both are power hunger and laptops are notorious for not have correct power to their usb ports.

I've ordered a powered usb hub and look forward to making comparisons. It only shipped today so it's going to be a few days before I have it.

A related question....those who are not using a powered usb hub and are using a laptop, does blue saturation cease increasing in your software charts even though you're increasing blue saturation?

Have the 3D settings been posted?

You are more likely to find them in the display owner's section of the forum. This "sticky" thread explains why: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1055906 .

Same findings here, also.

ss

Hi,

I have something in my calibration of my VT50 I dont get. When I do my whitebalance, my grayscale is very good from 20 to 100 %. However, when I measure white as the first pattern for my color gamut, white has a de of more than 5. Even after repeated measurements, it stays there, it does not drift. I use exactly the same meter, right after I do whitebalance. How can this exist at the same time, a near perfect white that is totally off as soon as I do color gamut?
Wouter Panasonic 2308012.pdf 2401k .pdf file

if your grayscale readings include 70% and 80% stim but the gamut white is 75% that means the VT50 is not tracking grayscale linearly between 70% and 80% (and possibly elsewhere too)

to avoid this problem, use two point grayscale to get things close and then finish with 10-pt grayscale as opposed to using 10-pt only

Ok, thanks, that at least clears up why it happens. I did however do exactly as you said, first two point then 10 point. A well, it'll take a while for me to understand my new tv I guess
Edited by Wouter73 - 8/26/12 at 3:14am

Got it. Thanks.

I look to get the iDisplay Pro and waiting on Cal 5. But they have a discount this week. Do i really need the CalMAN DPG-2000 Digital Pattern Generator?
What was out there before the CalMAN DPG-2000 Digital Pattern Generator?
I'm only using this for my home use. Maybe also calibrate my imac to while im at it.

Hi, i've read somewhere that it is possible to do wb for THX in the service menu. However, when I go to the wb section, I can select the "normal" presets like standard and cinema, but THX is nowere to be found. Am I misunderstanding something?

The WB settings in the SM are tied to the color temp presets (cool, warm ect) and are not tied to the specific display modes.

Ok thx. I am wondering though, I do have a few presets available in the sm, that visibly change the picture when i change them. How can I adjust wb for THX mode then? Do I need to go n and out of the sm every time to check it?


This isnwhat my sm looks like, is it the same n my EU model as it is n the US model?

http://s1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag59/henkdenegende/?action=view¤t=CC1721D9-E4F7-4940-B15D-D9F6353EBA73-1959-000001D4F8AE6AB7_zps2522073c.jpg&evt=user_media_share
Edited by Wouter73 - 11/2/12 at 2:40am

This is interesting. I had my set professionally calibrated and the calibrator used "THX Cinema" picture mode, Warm 2 and made the majority of adjustments in the service menu under "Cinema". If I understand your statement correctly, when I switch to "Custom" picture mode, none of the changes that he made are visible. Correct? Or are you saying that whenever the setting of Warm 2 is used, the calibrator's settings are in effect(despite the picture mode)? So, if I put the TV in "Custom", "Warm 2" the calibrator's adjustments are utilized?

Does anyone have any suggestions or calibration settings for "Game Mode"? THX looks great, but there's noticeable screen lag. Game mode still induces some lag, but it's much more tolerable; however, it's not calibrated and looks too vivid. I know this setting is limited for calibration controls, so if anyone could maybe touch on changes they made to the basics (brightness, contrast, color, tint) so i can have a general idea where to put my settings, I would appreciate it. Right now i'm at contrast 100, brightnes 64, color 49, tint +1, sharpness 0, everything else off, black level light. Looks better than default, but still not where i'd like it.

Goedendag Wouter
Did you find out your problem?
If not, can you run the greyscale in Chromapure with 5% steps and show the results. You have to use the "save greyscale image" because in the reports, only the 10% steps are shown.
What patterns are you using for greyscale, and for Color Management?

Something was changed. The before has white at 312, 330, 49.6 FtL and the after 319, 339, 41.3. Both the CIE coordinates and the luminance have changed considerably and the "after" coordinates are way off. What happened there?

That is because I used 75% patterns for color gamut, and therefore started with 75% white (grey).
So the problem was the grayscale tracking. Somehow this problem has not been an issue annymore. Instead, I am extremely annoyed by the light-output cap in the ISF modes, so now I have a perfect grayscale, colorgamut and gamma but with way too dimm a picture in bright scenes in ISF, or a fairly accurate (two point in SM) grayscale in THX mode, but with crappy gamut and gamma. Panasonic flagship and best PQ tv of 2012....pah, might be true stil, but it's an annoying set to me, being an amateur calibrater. In the proces of trying to convince the wife that after paying 3000 euro for a tv, it's perfectly logical and okay to pay another 1500 euro for a lumagen mini3d :P

I've been using Calman 5 for the last few days (evaluation licence) and notice that they take the approach of adjusting RGB together for your grayscale points to get your gamma lined up whereas with Chromapure and Controlcal, I've used the gamma adjustments.

Has anyone found one method to be any better than the other?

Think that ftl cap is only on the Euro models ?

I think so, I know only for sure that we do not have a "panel brightness" setting.

Jim, use all of the 10pt controls, both 10pt W/B RGBs and 10pt Gamma when/where needed - this doesn't matter what calibration software you are using with ControlCAL. If you were just using 10pt Gamma (Luminance) controls (never adjusting 10pt RGB), that is not correct.

If you are posting about raising / lowing all three 10pt W/B RGB equally for gamma, it could be done but I'd try to balance it between the 10pt W/B and Gamma (Luminance) Controls, not adjusting G and avoiding extreme adjustments.
Edited by turbe - 11/10/12 at 8:30am

Agreed, the 10p gamma controls work exceptionally well. Do the 2 and 10p GS and then adjust the 10p gamma. Recheck. Done.

Thanks Turbe and Buz.

Yes that's correct, but when are you doing your primary secondary CMS, if you do your CMS after your GS/Gamma I would think you would want to recheck the same once done with the CMS.
Of-course you can also not use the 10 point gamma at all. I got very use to not using the 10 point Gamma controls at all with my Kuro 141, because they were very problematic.
Anyway as you can see with my ISF mode calibration report, I set my Gamma target to 2.2 and ended up with a Gamma of 2.2 along with all the numbers/charts being very close to ideal.

But all this becomes a moot point when you start to play with the 3D LUT 125 point cube and a 21 point GS using a Lumagen Mini 3D for both color patterns and settings. Once you get use to using this type of calibration/software and your meters and display profiling, I would think you understand why I use the phrase "moot point".

ss

SS

Any problems in Calman's CMS module in getting blue saturation within a dE of 3? It reads low and any amount of adjusting doesn't seem to improve it.

It's acting as if it's getting a saturation pattern at 75% but trying to apply measurements at 100%...but just for blue.

Yes imo blue hue is the most problematic setting to get right (ideal), saturation not as hard but still not easy. However it is possible to get both within dE of 3.

The good news is Blue is the least critical primary to get right, so a dE of close to 3 is just fine, Red for flesh tones and Green for foliage/lum/gamma more important.

Anyway imo that's is one of the big pluses for doing a 3D LUT 125 point cube, getting the Blue tones over a large range of Blue close to being right. iow no blue tint on teeth in a scene using a blue filter, things like that. Drove me nuts when calibrating my Kuro 141.

btw in your case if you ever want to do the 3D cube, you may get away with buying a ee color cube that is much cheaper than the Mini 3D and use your pattern generator. Buzz would know more about how well the color cube works, I think he has one.

ss

Goedemiddag Wouter,
From this I understand that peak white in THX mode is acceptable for you? What peak white level do you measure in THX mode. If that peak white is acceptable for you, for what kind of environment: dark room, half dimmed, daylight?