The Official Panasonic UT50 Settings/Issues Thread - Page 5

Hi All,

just got a 50UT50.

checked levels with spears and munsil using oppo bdp-83
settings I currently have dialed in are:
mode: cinema
contrast: 45
brightness: 50
color: 50
tint: 0
sharpness: 0
color temp: warm 2
All NR: off
Motion smoother: off
black level: light

With those brightness/contrast settings, black bar 17 just barely appears/disappears, and the brightest white bar just barely disappears.

This is for both a dark room, and a room with some backlighting behind the TV.

Well, now that I got some calibration squared away (altho I must admit that contrast from S&M might be a tad low IMO).....


I was checking out some content on netflix via the panasonic viera netflix app, and it stutters, seems like it is tossing in a black frame every once in a while randomly. Very annoying. Anybody experienced this and/or know a solution?

(and I do not believe it is my internet connection, I have netflix working on a roku on a different TV right now, not occuring nor has it ever, same on my PC)

I think Netflix stutters on this TV when the quality of the stream changes from SD to HD low, med, high, X-high. It happens to me every once in a while, usually when I first start a stream buffer. Press the (i) info button on the remote next time you watch Netflix and observe the quality of the stream in the top right corner. I'm not aware of a solution.

LB

I don't have any problems with Netflix, but then I'm running it through a BD player and not the TV.

I tried to determine if this was what was occuring. But....when you push info, the stream quality info doesn't change until you press the button again, so you don't get an instant reading. While doing this, I noticed it stuttering while it was at medium HD, and when I quickly hit the info button again, was still at medium HD. So I'm not entirely sure that switching quality levels is the problem (unless it changed fast enough........)

Like I said, that setting from S&M seemed really low. But aren't they like the gold standard? Why would it be so far off?

Edit: I'll need to check my receiver settings to see what is going on. The BDP-83 goes thru the receiver and then to the TV. This might have a large effect, even though I believe the receiver should just be passing everything through.
Edited by owslystnly - 10/9/12 at 12:18pm

Just went thru S&M with and without the receiver in the chain. (keep in mind, TV is new, and has been on for maybe 20 hrs, not over 100....not sure how big of a difference that will make)

If the PLUGE tests are correct, brightness needs to be at ~48 for 2nd bar from right to just disappear (with pluge high and the contrast test, this needs to be bumped up a bit to ~50)

For the contrast test, if contrast is at ~76-80, the most visible white bar is in the 240s. To get the farthest right bars to appear, contrast needs to be around 45. Also true for the flashing bars test (the brightness can be lowered to the ~30 range to get whites to look ok at a contrast of 80, but then the blacks are too dark)

Additionally, concentric squares are not completely visible in all channels in the clipping tests with the high contrast.

For those of you who have calibrated, care to comment?

My calibrator (i1 Display Pro) arrives tomorrow, is RGB/White Balance the only thing to really calibrate in the service menu? Also, is brightness calibrated by the meter or by eye with the AVS 709R basic patterns? I'll be following the walkthrough on CurtPalme's website for HCFR.

I also read last night you can use 100 IRE to get contrast between 30-40 ftL and then the luminance (Y) of that multiplied by .65% (0.0065) can give you an ideal brightness.

Some clipping is perfectly fine..many get this test backwards..technically not all the white bars in the contrast test have to appear.

Read this:

http://www.spearsandmunsil.com/articles/settingthecontrastcontrol.html

I've also attached my report for reference, I've pretty much tweaked it to perfection..im not worried to much about the 10% being so high since the meter i use is really only good from 20 and on but im satisfied..so I will not be making any more adjustments to the highs and lows for another year or so, then I will go back and see what needs to be tweaked!


New Image2.JPG 274k .JPG file

New Image1.JPG 313k .JPG file

Thanks for the link! I was just going off the instructions in the pamphlet/disc, which don't discuss about using a lower # (altho that was the conclusion I came to, because 45 contrast was clearly way too low).

Good thing there isn't any hockey this year....delays my complaining about the ABL!

The black flashes on Netflix via Smart Viera app are from the stream changing quality. With the info bar on (on my set at least) it does change when the quality changes, and sometimes there is a black frame during the quality change, but usually only between "levels", e.g. SD to HD to X-HD, I do not get the black frame during changes from say HD Medium to HD High. I find that typically Netflix starts out with poor quality, but works its way up to X-HD High within a minute or so and often stays there. The audio never skips for me during these changes.

For what it's worth, I have a 25/2.5mbit cable connection in Vancouver Canada, and am using D-Link DHP-500/540 Powerline AV+ to bring the connection to the TV. I am using unblock-us.com to access the U.S. Netflix service.

By info bar, you mean the little box in the upper left when you push the info button? I don't have a bar here.....

The audio also does not skip for me.

And I am on 20/2 Mbit cable, wired to a WNDR3700 router. Will test again sometime later tonight. If it is due to netflix quality fluctuating, anybody know if Panny might fix this with an update? This is the only netflix player in my house that has issues with a netflix quality fluctuation.

I received me i1 Display Pro today and calibrated my TV. The UT50 calibrates really well despite the lack of user control. Here are some charts.

Before:

After my first try calibrating at 30 IRE and 80 IRE. The results were really good.

My second try. This is calibrating at 30 IRE and 70 IRE. I wanted to try and even out the 60 IRE color hump, but it ended up making the calibration worse.

The Delta E values calibrated awesome and the primaries and secondaries were pretty good. Yellow was a little outside the CIE triangle, but I thought everything went well.

Here are my current picture settings with my calibration.

Picture Mode : Cinema
Contrast : +85
Brightness : +46
Color : +50
Tint : -1
Sharpness: 0

Color Temp: Warm 2
Color Mgmt.: Off
C.A.T.S.: Off
Video NR: Off

HDMI Settings
HDMI/DVI RGB Range: Auto
Content Type Auto

Mosquito NR: Off
Motion Smoother: Off
Black Level: Light


Edit: Updated.
Edited by anikun07 - 10/14/12 at 12:48pm

I have a question about H Size. I know when I use Full for the picture format that H 2 is the proper under/over scan setting. Is this also the same with the 4:3 screen format? I have Star Trek playing on Amazon Instant Video, but my blu ray player is 16:9 so I know that 4:3 crops the edges of the BDPs displays/info but with Star Trek via Amazon I think H 2 is cropping the edges and H 1 shows a little more of the picture. I'm assuming Star Trek was shot and distributed in 4:3 for TV.

I updated my picture settings. No, the White balance seem fairly close with defaults, but it did improve. I did calibrate in the dark and with 0 IRE the HCFR software picked up a brightness of 0.004 ftL. I'm not sure how to enlarge the pictures on the forum. They are pretty big but the formatting of the forum is resizing them.

I did a final calibration going to back using 30 IRE and 70 IRE and I balanced out that 60 IRE hump in blue and gamma.

Sorry, I meant the little info box in the top left corner of the screen. I haven't tried any other Netflix app solutions so this is my only exposure to the service. The quality jumps seem to happen mostly in the first few minutes of viewing a title. I'm going to be upgrading to 100/5 cable relatively soon (need a higher bandwidth cable) so I'll post if that helps.

I'll be checking mine out some more this weekend, let you all know what I discover (if anything)

Edit: Looked good tonight, stayed in HD (x-high or whatever the highest setting is) the whole time. No flickering. So I will assume it was indeed some fluctuations in network speed causing the flickers for now.
Edited by owslystnly - 10/12/12 at 11:10pm

oh and anyone got suggestions for best gaming settings? because i tried normal and the motion seemed smooth like the framerate but i am tempted to just stick with game mode which seems to have better input reduced lag(maybe its just me) and i have my sharpness to clicks from the default middle

Sorry for asking, but how do I see Neo's settings? I know its on the first post, and I did look in the pdf files. Very new at this but love my 55ut.

Thanks

Neo took his settings down and will re-post them once his meter arrives and he has time to fine them. I am using anikun07's settings at the moment and they look great. Anikun07's settings are a few clicks different than Neo's mainly in the contrast and color. His settings are on post #138 if you want to give them a try.

LB

I tried those settings and wow. Now that looks nice. Thank you. I am not sure if this is the proper forum to ask this but should I be using a specific hdmi cable version for this set being 3d? Is version 1.3 the right one?

thanks

I use Mediabridge Ultra from Amazon. I'm not sure if it's 1.3 or 1.4 but it does 3D and they are very inexpensive quality cables.