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The Official Panasonic UT50 Settings/Issues Thread - Page 50

post #1471 of 1548
^^^best wishes, let us know the outcome
post #1472 of 1548
Question about burning in. I didnt do a very thorough slide show when my TV was new (like alternating constant colors), I just had had a screen saver rotating photos.

It's a few months old now, and I noticed slight ghosting when i left a video game paused for several minutes (i try to never do this.)

Is it too late to run a more thorough slide show to help prevent this?
post #1473 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by perfy View Post

Question about burning in. I didnt do a very thorough slide show when my TV was new (like alternating constant colors), I just had had a screen saver rotating photos.

It's a few months old now, and I noticed slight ghosting when i left a video game paused for several minutes (i try to never do this.)

Is it too late to run a more thorough slide show to help prevent this?

Just keep watching TV and it will be fine. I pause movies for 5-10 minutes sometime with no ill effects. Maybe you just nee a little more time on the set. What's your contrast set at? Max 95 is good, I keep mine at 87. But I have a bright set after calibration.
post #1474 of 1548
Hi all,

I just wanted to let you all know about 3D and headaches my wife was getting and does not now due to this device, and now I have a perfect 3D tv.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfran1 View Post

I received my MEDE8ER MED600X3D yesterday and tested 3d .mkv sbs movies on both my panny plasma and sony led tv

On a scale of 1%-100%, 1% being no crosstalk, and 100% being lots of crosstalk.

Thru the sony 46nx810 (The movies going thru the TV's hardware to decode them) (retailed for over $2000) 240hz refresh was a huge disappointment at I would say 50%-60% crosstalk. Now a Blu-ray Disc 3D movie, ps3 to the Sony was at 15%-25%, just throwing this out there, as I found this strange, tho most likely being SONY destroying the playback of SBS files on purpose.

Thru the 600x3d to the sony (The movies going thru the 600x3d hardware to decode them), 3D was 30% crosstalk with lots of adjustments played with on both the sony and 600. What a huge disappointment, and conclusion for me that led/lcd just can not cut it, or SONY SUCKS AT 3D!! I personally think its the latter.

Now the Panasonic 55ut50 plasma (The movies going thru the TV's hardware to decode them), 3D movies played thru the panny plasma was I thought at a great 10%-20% crosstalk, almost as good as the imax that I go to quite often. Now a Blu-ray Disc 3D movie, ps3 to the panny was at 10%-20% also.

Now before I say my results for the panny, let me tell you all about my wife, she got headaches within minutes watching 3D on either TV and therefore would not watch 3D movies with me, unless at imax that she never got the headaches.

Thru the 600xd to the panny plasma (The movies going thru the 600x3d hardware to decode them), now I would say 3D is 1% crosstalk(as good as the best possible), as good as imax!!!!!!!!!!!! AND my wife watched a 3D movie with me last night with no headaches !!!!!smile.gifbiggrin.gif

These boxes are worth their cost and all I can say is WOW WOW WOW!!!!!!!!

Now this is all my opinion, no test equipment used, just my eyes and my OCD on 3D.

Thank You all for reading!!

This post I made was from here
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1440149/mede8er-med600x3d-new-3d-version-to-2013/690#post_23658762


Now in saying this, and you all reading, I can not guarantee that it is the solution for everyone, but it should be for some (it was for me) at the least and it does cost $190 to your door, 3 days latter yet. As you can see from the test results, I thought 3D was perfect before but now thru the 600x3d they really are perfect! Also I do not have absolutely any affiliation with this device or manufacturer or the seller or anyone involved, I am just a customer like you all!

The files played were converted to 3D .mkv SBS files, not blu-ray disks.
post #1475 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by damag0r View Post

Well it's been less than a month since I first contacted them and according to Panasonic who I just got off the phone with, they are going to be sending the TV repair place a new unit to give to me. I asked for a 50" ST60 as a replacement for the 50" UT50... is that what I'm getting? Who knows. Guess I'll find out before too long.

Woot! Panasonic replaced with an ST60! biggrin.gif I will miss you all, guess I'll be participating in the ST60 thread from now on. I'm also excited because now I get to do my first 10 point gray scale calibration!

Thanks Anikun and everyone else who helped in this thread.
post #1476 of 1548
Congrats! ... and don't let the door hit you on the way out... smile.gif j/k'ing
post #1477 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by shpitz View Post

Congrats! ... and don't let the door hit you on the way out... smile.gif j/k'ing

biggrin.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by damag0r View Post

Woot! Panasonic replaced with an ST60! biggrin.gif I will miss you all, guess I'll be participating in the ST60 thread from now on. I'm also excited because now I get to do my first 10 point gray scale calibration!

Thanks Anikun and everyone else who helped in this thread.

You lucked out my friend, they should of given you the S60 series. Good job, enjoy.
post #1478 of 1548
Congratulations! How did you manage to get them to agree to an ST60?
post #1479 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by Latinoheat View Post

biggrin.gif
You lucked out my friend, they should of given you the S60 series. Good job, enjoy.

No way... the S60 series doesn't have the 2500 FFD. I specifically paid extra for a UT50 to get that... the S60 and U50 only have 600hz SFD. The S60 would have been a definite downgrade.
Quote:
Originally Posted by anikun07 View Post

Congratulations! How did you manage to get them to agree to an ST60?

I don't think they even have any 50" UT50s to give. All I really did was mention I calibrate myself and I'd really like an ST60 as a replacement as the MSRP is about the same and the features are about the same (except for the much better settings menu and extra hdmi port).

I'm going to go nuts calibrating this thing with all of the extra settings, I don't even know how to calibrate some of this stuff... might buy Calman.
Edited by damag0r - 8/26/13 at 5:37pm
post #1480 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by damag0r View Post

No way... the S60 series doesn't have the 2500 FFD. I specifically paid extra for a UT50 to get that... the S60 and U50 only have 600hz SFD. The S60 would have been a definite downgrade.

I'm going to go nuts calibrating this thing with all of the extra settings, I don't even know how to calibrate some of this stuff... might buy Calman.


I didn't mean to get the S60 obviously the St60 is better. The equivalent to UT50 is the S60. ST50 is equivalent to ST60. You got lucky to get the ST60.
post #1481 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by damag0r View Post

No way... the S60 series doesn't have the 2500 FFD. I specifically paid extra for a UT50 to get that... the S60 and U50 only have 600hz SFD. The S60 would have been a definite downgrade.
I don't think they even have any 50" UT50s to give. All I really did was mention I calibrate myself and I'd really like an ST60 as a replacement as the MSRP is about the same and the features are about the same (except for the much better settings menu and extra hdmi port).

I'm going to go nuts calibrating this thing with all of the extra settings, I don't even know how to calibrate some of this stuff... might buy Calman.

Makes sense that they would give you the ST60, if they downgraded you to the S60, like you said you would lose the 2500FFD and 3D. I'm a bit curious, how far apart are the picture quality differences between the UT50 and ST60?
post #1482 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by cv1981 View Post

Makes sense that they would give you the ST60, if they downgraded you to the S60, like you said you would lose the 2500FFD and 3D. I'm a bit curious, how far apart are the picture quality differences between the UT50 and ST60?

The ST60 blows the UT50 out of the water. Especially after I keyed in D-Nice's settings (I tested it a bit before running slides which I'm doing now). Once I put about 100-250 hours on this thing with his slides and other 16:9 logoless content, I'll then re-calibrate myself using D-Nice's settings as a base. I might buy Calman as I've never done anything but 2 point gray scale with HCFR before.

Anyway, more specifically the blacks seem much better, not to mention the gamma (which is also fully adjustable on the ST60). Colors of course can be made to be much closer with the PRO menu as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Latinoheat View Post

I didn't mean to get the S60 obviously the St60 is better. The equivalent to UT50 is the S60. ST50 is equivalent to ST60. You got lucky to get the ST60.

Oh I understood what you meant, I just didn't agree the S60 was equivalent, because it lacks the 2500 FFD. Also, I think the price was more similar to the ST60, the S60 is definitely cheaper than my UT50 was even on sale.
Edited by damag0r - 8/26/13 at 7:49pm
post #1483 of 1548
UT50 gamma is almost unwatchable IMO. Measuring depends on the pattern size but I got maybe ~2.0 or worse and not a straight line.

To help matters I am using the advanced menu dark black option. (The intended use of that option is for when you are using a device like a computer with 0-255 levels and view content like a DVD that only outputs 16-240).

It does cause black crush. Personally I think the gamma looks so washed out that I'd just sacrifice the black detail, but you may not need to sacrifice so much, depending on your device:

When connected to my DirectTV box I can select "non-standard" levels as opposed to 16-240. When I do that, the dark selection pulls down the darker blacks and it's overall really a correction depending on how you think about it,. Gamma is not as much of a straight line, but it's more correct which seems to matter a lot at the ends. In any case it's a damn strong improvement. Night and day.

When connected to a Blue Ray player to measure the effect however, that RGB range switch does nothing! On the DTV box, when it's set to 16-240 the blacks are crushed in a much more aggressive way that a lot of people wouldn't accept. In 0-255 ("non-standard"), they are lowered smoothly.

Testing it with a device is easy. Just select dark blacks and then toggle the HDMI RGB range option for the input. If it does nothing you probably have the aggressively crushed blacks. If it works you get the smoother darkening. I don't know why it behaves different on the two devices - maybe someone else will know. I once read a reviewer say he got better levels that way from a VT50, but on my VT50 connected to an identical DTV box it does nothing, (shrug).
post #1484 of 1548
My settings for the UT50:

Contrast: 100
Brightness: 57
Color: 48
Tint: -2
Sharpness: 66
Temp: Normal
Black Level: Light or Low
Edited by coolguyf - 10/15/13 at 7:51pm
post #1485 of 1548

Hi all,

 

First of all i would like to thank everyone in here alot.

I've been reading this forum and especially this thread alot.

It has helped me out many times, before and after my purchase of my TXP-50UT50b

 

This has been my first plasma and it's been great!!!

I couldn't stand LCD/LED anymore. My main reason for this was the lack of black and the backlight bleeding.

I broke my plasma in by doing 100 hours of RGB screens in sequence and i've been using it for 6 months now.

 

I have a tech background, but i was new to calibrating. So i dove in and starting reading a couple weeks ago.

After you all being so helpfull, i would like to share my setting and the results of my first calibration.

I'm pleased with my first attempt and wil carry on trying to perfect my skills.

For as far as my PQ looks right now... ITS GREAT (after calibration) Beautifull.

 

Here are my settings and results, hopefully i can contribute in this way.

 

 

If there are any tips or comments, please share them with me. :) 

 

PS: My settings are from the European model.

I use my UT50 mainly for movies and games.


Edited by Doughty - 9/30/13 at 3:15pm
post #1486 of 1548

Hello Everyone.

 

I recently purchased a refurbished tc-p50ut50.  I have an issue with the image being jerky, or kind of pausing.  It's as if it is skipping frames or not able to keep up with the signal.  I wish I could describe it better than that but it's a pretty unusual effect.  I've tested a variety of inputs...TIVO, AppleTV and Blu-Ray...each connected directly to the TV (skipping the AV Receiver) and the results are the same between each device so I am pretty sure it's the TV.  I've modified the 'motion smoother' setting to each option available and I don't think there is a tremendous difference, although it may be a little better with it set to 'off'.  Generally it is as if the TV is too slow to be able to accommodate the incoming signal and has to catch up occasionally.  It doesn't only occur when there is fast motion (although it is most common then) but can appear in almost any scenario of picture (sports, talk show etc..) 

 

Has anyone else experienced this.  My instinct is that this isn't a setting option and that the TV has an issue...but I figured someone here may have some clever suggestions I haven't tried.

 

Thanks and any help is appreciated.

post #1487 of 1548
Have you tried different HDMI cables? I would also try connecting an antenna directly into the tv bypassing the hdmi inputs and see if that makes a difference.
post #1488 of 1548

Anyone notice that when entering the menu, when the menu takes up over half the screen that the brightness/contrast is higher???

Anyone figure out a way to make the TV that brightness/contrast when out of the menu?  I'd assume it'd be done through the service menu.  It's driving me absolutely nuts.

 

Btw I have a TC-P55UT50.  Thanks!!!

post #1489 of 1548
It switches to vivid mode, I think.
post #1490 of 1548

That's what I thought...then I looked at vivid and even adjusted those settings a bit to no avail.  Even tried going into the service menu and increasing the contrast all the way but I think 100% is the max either way.

post #1491 of 1548
I don't think you can make the panel any brighter than it is, sounds like you are encountering ABL. If I have a hockey game on my plasma, and bring up the user menu, what little bit of the game is visible, gets noticeably brighter in that small area, but once I exit the menu, the screen dims back down. Is that what you are seeing?
post #1492 of 1548

Yea, after actually using the TV for what it's for for a bit again, I believe you are 100% correct.

Thanks for re-assuring my suspicion.  Unfortunately I'm not seeing an option to disable that, is there?  

post #1493 of 1548
I have a question about contrast. if my brightness is,set at 62, should contrast also be increased. currently it is set at 90. I notice no,change in contrast above 90. any and all help will be appreciated. im am using anikun's settings.
post #1494 of 1548
My brightness setting is 49 or 50. 62 seems way too high for black blacks.
post #1495 of 1548
Anikun, have you taken any recent readings from your UT50? I'm using your newest settings(I think) and recently it seems like black levels have worsened slightly with the set being almost one year old. I have not noticed any colors being off and the settings are still in place.


I was curious if you have noticed any change when using your meter because your set used the same default settings as mine.
post #1496 of 1548
I haven't, but I've been thinking about doing it again soon to see if there have been any changes.
post #1497 of 1548
62 is too high. lowered it back to 48. still working on contrast.
post #1498 of 1548
[I currently have brightness at 50 and contrast at 90. any thoughts?
post #1499 of 1548
Have you adjusted the white balance? On stock it might be okay, I wouldn't go higher.
post #1500 of 1548
im using ur wb settings. looking good
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