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The Official Panasonic UT50 Settings/Issues Thread - Page 6

post #151 of 1548
HDMI Cables are not 1.3/1.4, it's a marketing scam. I just ordered some new ones though from monoprice. I tried the Nippon Labs from Newegg, but I strongly suggest you not try them. I'm using some now that are from 2009 and 2011, but they changed their cable design and are now using thinner cables. I ordered six cables and only two worked so I got my RMA and I'm sending them back tomorrow. The difference in HDMI cables is whether they're HDMI certified, meaning the HDMI "Council" or coalition, or whoever maintains the standard had certified the cable or perhaps the cable meets those requirements, but there is standard speed, high speed, and high speed with ethernet capability (I think up to 100 Mb/s). There's a lot to opinions and wrong information on the web about them. 1.3/1.4 HDMI cables just means it will be compatible what that software/device, they cables is not actually 1.3 or 1.4. I chose to upgrade cables because I wanted to make sure my 3D was being sent perfect, although I would suppose it's unnecessary because I have 3D coming in. But it will give me peace of mind.

I also tweaked my settings a little bit. I changed tint to -1 and changed color to 50. I also increased contrast to 85. This brought the primaries and secondaries closer to the CIE triangle points. I'll update my post with those changes. I'm still looking for ways to improve the picture so I'll keep the thread updated with any news.

(changed brightness to contrast)
Edited by anikun07 - 10/14/12 at 12:45pm
post #152 of 1548
thanks for the info anikun. When you say you brought up your brightness to 85, did you mean the contrast?

thanks for your settings. They look great.
post #153 of 1548
I just bought a 60UT50 for my mother last week. She says sometimes she is getting colored snow when she is watching TV. She temporarily had a 50u50 out there before deciding it was too small, and she never had this problem.

If she turns the TV off and back on she says it will go away. Unfortunately it has never happened when I am there so I have yet to see it in person. She says she has never seen it on her Roku and only on the TiVo.

I don't know if it is possibly a setting to prevent IR since I haven't had time to even really mess with the settings. I don't know if maybe her MoCa adapter is going bad or overheating all of the sudden.

Any ideas or suggestions?
post #154 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Spizzirri View Post

thanks for the info anikun. When you say you brought up your brightness to 85, did you mean the contrast?
thanks for your settings. They look great.

Yeah, I totally meant contrast, brightness should be 46 or 47. Sorry about that.
post #155 of 1548
Thread Starter 
In the meantime both Disney WOW and AVS 709 HD is showing me a brightness of 51 is perfect. So it looks like I came to the same conclusion that D-Nice did with my panel. 51 nails it for brightness. However.. what I always did was dial it down just 1 click to reduce dithering in the anamorphic bars (and certain content) to make the image punch more. So in this case I would set the brightness to 50. 46-47 seems low and I think anikun07 is letting bar 16 on the AVS 709 pattern totally disappear. Don't think you want to do this. D-Nice has both my VT50 and Kuro showing dithering in bar 16 and it makes sense because that's reference black. You actually want detail there, and if not it's crushing black.

With color, I came to 49 with a blue filter. How accurate will this be compared to the meter? I'm not certain. But for now, fans that enjoyed my previous custom settings can use the following:

Picture Mode - Cinema

Contrast - 78-88 (waiting for meter)
Brightness - 50
Color - 49
Tint - 0
Sharpness - 0

Color Temp - Warm 2
Color Mgmt - Off
C.A.T.S. - Off
Video NR - Off

HDMI Settings

HDMI Range - Auto
Content Type - Auto

Advanced

Mosquito NR - Off
Motion Smoother - Off
Black Level - Light
3:2 Pulldown - On

When the meter arrives I'm going to familiarize myself with ChromaPure. When I feel confident and satisfied that I squeezed every last ounce out of my UT.. I'll then post settings, along with white balance offsets. Anikun07 has confirmed that cinema mode is the only mode showing a gamma over 2.0 with his new meter. So now that we know this I aim to raise the bar with a better picture than my previous custom settings. I'll post a detailed description of what exactly I did in the service menu, and how I did it, along with pre/post calibration reports. For that matter, after a proper calibration of both custom and cinema modes.. I'll attach reports for each to let you decide if it's worth the tradeoff. (you already have D-Nice's report of custom mode but I'll still try and improve upon)
post #156 of 1548
Newbie to the forum...

I'm wondering about the "wonderful free AVS Forum disc" that GiraffeJumper mentioned - I searched the forums and can't find it.

Anybody have a link where to download or order this?

Thanks in advance,

FolmerW
post #157 of 1548
Thread Starter 
post #158 of 1548
The higher end TV's are usually the ones that get the dialed in calibrations love. Its nice to see the UT50 getting the came treatment! Thanks Neo & Anikun for taking the time to calibrate your TV's and share the results with us, it is much appreciated. biggrin.gif

LB
post #159 of 1548
I asked this very early on in this thread, but can anyone confirm whether the pixel orbiter is on when the HD size is set to 2 which shows every pixel available with no overscan? Is it more detrimental to the panel to watch 2.35:1 BD's on size 2? Would it make IR more prominent? Honestly, I've been watching several 2.35:1 BD's over the last week or two and haven't seen any IR at all, but I have it set to size 1.
post #160 of 1548
If you have the pixel orbiter enabled in the settings menu than it is "ON" regardless of the aspect setting. As far is its effect on 2.35:1 movies, I don't think it would do much to prevent it if it were to happen. I have about 500 hrs on my TV and occasionally see IR after long gaming sessions, but nothing that last more than a few minutes. I have a USB stick with D-Nices' slides plugged into the TV at all times and I just run his slides every so often. The gray slides allows me to see if any IR and the rest of them wipe it clean after a few cycles. I'm know I'm being a bit anal with my set to be sure but I don't think at this point I have much to worry about.

LB
post #161 of 1548
2.35:1 movies and other non 1.78:1 movies should not cause image retention because they pixels are not on/being used. IR occurs because the pixels beings used are stationary for too long, but with pure black, like letterboxing, the pixels are off. At least, that's my take on IR. TV channel watermarks are a different story.
post #162 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by PathofNeo View Post

In the meantime both Disney WOW and AVS 709 HD is showing me a brightness of 51 is perfect. So it looks like I came to the same conclusion that D-Nice did with my panel. 51 nails it for brightness. However.. what I always did was dial it down just 1 click to reduce dithering in the anamorphic bars (and certain content) to make the image punch more. So in this case I would set the brightness to 50. 46-47 seems low and I think anikun07 is letting bar 16 on the AVS 709 pattern totally disappear. Don't think you want to do this. D-Nice has both my VT50 and Kuro showing dithering in bar 16 and it makes sense because that's reference black. You actually want detail there, and if not it's crushing black.

I'm reading the Calman software instructions with eval mode, and it says 16 and below should be black and 17 and up should be discernible. But that can mean different things depending on how you read it, because to see dithering you have to put your nose an inch from the screen. I think I remember reading (when I first starting TV calibration by eye/test pattern) it should be discernible from where you sit and in the lighting you use when you view. So that can have a big affect on where brightness should be set. I'm not sure what's correct, but I trust D-Nice's calibration on your set.
post #163 of 1548
Thread Starter 
Dithering is a necessary evil and by virtue of all plasmas. Black details are absent without it, and only with your nose to the screen does it look nasty. But I understand where your coming from. I hope ChromaPure will offer an alternate explanation / way to calibrate but I'm going to email D-Nice on this matter. It'd be highly unlikely that he'll respond to such but he might just help us out. Could you imagine him responding to this thread? eek.gif
Edited by PathofNeo - 10/14/12 at 10:39pm
post #164 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by anikun07 View Post

2.35:1 movies and other non 1.78:1 movies should not cause image retention because they pixels are not on/being used. IR occurs because the pixels beings used are stationary for too long, but with pure black, like letterboxing, the pixels are off. At least, that's my take on IR. TV channel watermarks are a different story.

Yeah, there's no IR from black bars, but channel logos are a different story. It's not that bad and it goes away after a few minutes. Thankfully, I don't really watch TV, at least not any channels with bright logos aside from NBA games on the weekends on ABC during the season.
post #165 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by Laughing Buddha View Post

If you have the pixel orbiter enabled in the settings menu than it is "ON" regardless of the aspect setting. As far is its effect on 2.35:1 movies, I don't think it would do much to prevent it if it were to happen. I have about 500 hrs on my TV and occasionally see IR after long gaming sessions, but nothing that last more than a few minutes. I have a USB stick with D-Nices' slides plugged into the TV at all times and I just run his slides every so often. The gray slides allows me to see if any IR and the rest of them wipe it clean after a few cycles. I'm know I'm being a bit anal with my set to be sure but I don't think at this point I have much to worry about.
LB

Well, I'm switching it to Size 2! I want to see...everything! biggrin.gif
post #166 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Spizzirri View Post

I tried those settings and wow. Now that looks nice. Thank you. I am not sure if this is the proper forum to ask this but should I be using a specific hdmi cable version for this set being 3d? Is version 1.3 the right one?
thanks

Any HDMI cable can carry 3D, or anything else in the HDMI spec (with ethernet-over-HDMI being the exception). The issue is how far can it carry a signal without breaking down? This short article explains it better: http://www.bluejeanscable.com/articles/hdmi-1-4-cable.htm?hdmidept
post #167 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by QuiGonJosh View Post

I asked this very early on in this thread, but can anyone confirm whether the pixel orbiter is on when the HD size is set to 2 which shows every pixel available with no overscan? Is it more detrimental to the panel to watch 2.35:1 BD's on size 2? Would it make IR more prominent? Honestly, I've been watching several 2.35:1 BD's over the last week or two and haven't seen any IR at all, but I have it set to size 1.

Set it to size 2 and let the panel map 1:1. This guarantees no scaling by the panel and you'll get a sharper image. The pixel orbiter will still work but it does so by nudging the image over a bit and leaving tiny black bars on two of the edges. You won't even notice it's on unless you pull out a ruler to mark off the picture edge or display a test pattern.

It *is* possible to get IR by watching 2:35 movies, or letterboxed material, but only if the content is unusually bright and sustained. In that case, the IR occurs on the center of the panel and leaves the edges unaffected. But for normal viewing at sane contrast levels, I wouldn't worry about it. I've been using a 60UT50 for a couple of weeks now for TV, movies and games and have yet to see a hint of IR.
post #168 of 1548
Newb here ... My 60UT50 is getting delivered in about 4 hrs. I thought I remembered reading PathofNeo stating that he recommended out of the box settings (no break in period). Is that correct? I don't have the break-in DVD (or the patience), and I was hoping for initial setup advice. The room will be 98% dark (one small window covered with thick curtains), and I will only view HD content or movies for the first 200 hrs or so. This is the same thing I did for my 50ST30 last November, and it worked well. Can someone either verify or post a link so I can fire it up as soon as I unbox it? Thanks in advance.
post #169 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueDude View Post

Set it to size 2 and let the panel map 1:1. This guarantees no scaling by the panel and you'll get a sharper image. The pixel orbiter will still work but it does so by nudging the image over a bit and leaving tiny black bars on two of the edges. You won't even notice it's on unless you pull out a ruler to mark off the picture edge or display a test pattern.
It *is* possible to get IR by watching 2:35 movies, or letterboxed material, but only if the content is unusually bright and sustained. In that case, the IR occurs on the center of the panel and leaves the edges unaffected. But for normal viewing at sane contrast levels, I wouldn't worry about it. I've been using a 60UT50 for a couple of weeks now for TV, movies and games and have yet to see a hint of IR.

Thanks for the information. I use Neo's settings with contrast at 76-78 right now. I feel that going above 80 on contrast makes it a little too bright for my dark room. 78 is just about perfect. I mix up content from 2.35:1 BD's to 1.78 or 1.85 BD's.
post #170 of 1548
Use Cinema Mode it has the best gamma function so luminance get reproduced properly. I recommend low to mid 80s for contrast and upper forties for brightness. Turn off image "enhacements" and set HD to size to for no overscan.

Oh, QuiGon, one thing I have read about black letterbox bars is that after hours and hours, and I don't mean after like 2, but probably hundreds or thousands, the areas that are always letterboxed may brighter than the rest of the screen because they are not being used for so long, but I really believe this is a nonissue because content is always mixed and is never 2.35:1 100% of the time.


Also, with the new firmware when accessing the service menu it changes the screen to HD1/overscan. Does anyone know how to defeat this?
post #171 of 1548
Does anyone know if the wifi dongle that came with the 50ST30 can be used on the 60UT50 (dongle not included)? I heard that last year's ST series is this year's UT series so I have my fingers crossed that I'll be able to move the wifi connection from downstairs to upstairs with the new TV. Thanks.
post #172 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by anikun07 View Post

Use Cinema Mode it has the best gamma function so luminance get reproduced properly. I recommend low to mid 80s for contrast and upper forties for brightness. Turn off image "enhacements" and set HD to size to for no overscan.
Oh, QuiGon, one thing I have read about black letterbox bars is that after hours and hours, and I don't mean after like 2, but probably hundreds or thousands, the areas that are always letterboxed may brighter than the rest of the screen because they are not being used for so long, but I really believe this is a nonissue because content is always mixed and is never 2.35:1 100% of the time.
Also, with the new firmware when accessing the service menu it changes the screen to HD1/overscan. Does anyone know how to defeat this?

I watched hundreds of 2.35:1 movies on my old Panny PX80U and can't really make out any difference on a black screen between brightness of the black bar area. I have an image on my USB that has the reverse, bright white bar where the black bars are on BD's. I play sometimes just in case. smile.gif

http://imageshack.us/a/img189/7051/burninletterboxinverseb.jpg
post #173 of 1548
I'm new around here; just got a 50'' UT50 ... love it, and I really appreciate all the settings and info that y'all have posted. Question: if using this thing with a PS3, should I set the PS3's A/V settings to RGB, or Y/Pb/Cbr? My DVR/cable box also gives me this option, and I'm not sure which one to set it on ...
post #174 of 1548
YCbCr, I think is the correct setting. Games are also mastered in 16-235.
post #175 of 1548
Thanks, that's what I was thinking, too. I'm coming off a 46'' Samsung LCD that I got about five years ago ... this baby is quite an upgrade! I ordered some Sammy glasses to try out the 3D; other than the recommendation to try out the 48 hz, has anyone posted a full list of suggested 3D settings?
post #176 of 1548
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by anikun07 View Post

Games are also mastered in 16-235.

I didn't know PS3 games were limited. You sure?
Quote:
Originally Posted by lotusplasma View Post

has anyone posted a full list of suggested 3D settings?

Keep a tab on the first post. Will update eventually.
post #177 of 1548
That's what I've read, but PC games are most likely different than console. I'll see if I can verify that, though. I always just used YCbCr on my PS2.
post #178 of 1548
Glad to hear about cinema mode having a higher gamma, looking forward to trying these settings out.
post #179 of 1548
Question ... I got the 60UT50 out, set up, and it looks great in cinema mode. We loaded an Fios on-demand 3D movie and noticed a fair amount of cross talk, but for the most part, it was really good. I remembered reading about 48Hz reducing/eliminating the ghosting effect, but that setting is greyed out. Anyone know how to adjust? Thanks.
post #180 of 1548
Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamClark View Post

Question ... I got the 60UT50 out, set up, and it looks great in cinema mode. We loaded an Fios on-demand 3D movie and noticed a fair amount of cross talk, but for the most part, it was really good. I remembered reading about 48Hz reducing/eliminating the ghosting effect, but that setting is greyed out. Anyone know how to adjust? Thanks.

The only way to get 48hz is to have a 24p source running. It really helps with the crosstalk and the flicker isn't bad. Most likely you are limited to 60hz interlaced, but take a look around in the fios settings just in case.
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