The Official Panasonic UT50 Settings/Issues Thread - Page 10

Thanks, looks good.

Also you can buy a colormunki display which is almost like the I display pro3 for $159 on amazon and then send in your upc code to xrite for a $35 rebate.


http://www.amazon.com/Xrite-CMUNDIS-ColorMunki-Display1/dp/B0055MBQOM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1353352286&sr=8-2&keywords=colormunki+display

http://www.xritephoto.com/ph_product_overview.aspx?promoid=212&id=1513

So once you get your rebate,thats $124 out of pocket and you use the free HCFR software version 3.0.4 which supports the colormunki display.

Both alternatives are great.

HDMI content setting does nothing for cinema mode. It is used for all the other modes and with it set to graphics or photos it makes the color in custom look about the same as cinema,so why would you turn it off. You can set it to photos and switch between cinema and custom or game and the colors look almost identical with the exception of customs overall brighter picture.

Just a little tidbit 3:2 pulldown setting affects de-interlacing if it not set to "on". Have you run any de-interlacing checks ? For the 2011 sets at least the HDMI graphic setting was more accurate using mid-panel brightness, if left to auto the color saturation was off, whether either of these applies to the 2012 sets I don't know but just providing a little background on how those two setting preferences evolved. You have learned much in a short time "grasshopper "
Edited by chunon - 11/19/12 at 1:38pm

Here is a question, what are the best settings for the Game Mode? The benefit is supposed to be the 3ms response time, but I was curious if the picture suffers in this mode.

I haven't tried Game Mode but I think if you used any of the calibrated color temps and used the AVSHD 709 disc for brightness and contrast it should be fine.

I tried some recommended settings, but the brightness is overpowering, a lot of bloom around everything, didn't really notice a performance improvement on Halo 4, gonna stick with Custom.

Game and custom are identical except for 24p being greyed out and a few others options. If you set everything in game mode the same as in custom the picture will be identical. If you are a gamer and especially a cod player anything but game mode is unacceptable as there is alot of input lag.

The white subtitle problem is still kinda bugging me. I set sharpness between 0 and 5 just depending. I'm thinking of dropping the All Drive down to like EF and see how it is. I'm just afraid I'd throw off the colors if I mess with it, but if it brings them all down equally it shouldn't take them off, correct?

Edit: Anyway, I reduced the contrast from 84 to 80 and turned the sharpness up to 20, and it seems to be helping. So I'm just going to leave it like that for now... but I can tell I'm losing a tiny bit of detail by dropping the contrast. I also hate turning up the sharpness much at all because I know all it's adding is noise, but it does give the effect of giving more defined edges to stuff like text, and the noise it's adding is hiding the dithering and the blooming a bit. If you guys think reducing the All Drive might be better I'll do that instead though. Although I think I can live with it like this.

I also cannot sit any further back in this small room, which is why I held off on buying one of these for so long... the 42" ones are all sold out everywhere but I went ahead and got the 50" since it was cheap on sale and I really wanted something which took care of the sample-and-hold eye tracking type of blur.

Edit 2: lowering the contrast and increasing the sharpness has certainly helped a LOT... it's hiding a lot of the dithering and the blooming is much less pronounced. I'm quite happy at this point. But I'm not opposed to playing with the All Drive from the service menu if you guys think it might do a better job.

Edit 3: I'm not sure if it's the lowered contrast, or the increased sharpness... or both... but it's cleaning up most of the dithering noise and whatnot. I'm just going to leave it like this unless you guys have any better ideas. I'm using Anikun's service menu settings... Custom + Norrmal color temp.. and all of his other settings, but I've dropped contrast from 84 to 80 and increased the sharpness from 0 to 20. Again, I hate increasing the sharpness, but if it hides these other artifacts I'm fine with it. I'm typically one of those people that puts sharpness between 0 and 5 though.

Also if you can give me more info on the calman special I'd appreciate it . Last time I checked their site it was very expensive for just the "enthusiast" version alone, not even counting hardware from what I can tell. But if I can get enthusiast version + a meter $150 is totally worth it to me. and I'll order it immediately.
Edited by damag0r - 11/20/12 at 3:22am

Hey all great thread. I have two questions.

1) What is the difference between the R-Cut and the R-DRV? Does it correspond to high and low R? I have been in the SM plenty of times but just to review. I have downloaded the SM from http://elektrotanya.com/?q=showresult as well.

R-CUT 80
G-CUT 80
B-CUT 80
R-DRV DF
G-DRV FF
B-DRV 7C
ALL-CUT 80
ALL-DRV FF

2) Since UT and the U share the same panel (GPF15DU) would these settings work for the 60U50? (amazon has them for 798, no shipping or tax...pretty hard to pass up thats right 60 inches)

I would not recommend using WB for another TV because they it's a different panel. Many people think the U50 and UT50 are basically the same and they may be similar but they are different. To understand what white balance is and how it works this tutorial on grayscale should be read.

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457

I recommend reading through this so you know what you're doing. You can blindly follow changes in values but you don't understand why you're doing it. After reading that link the calibration charts also make sense and you can understand the accuracy of the calibration on the set that it was done on.


This is the link the Calman 5 with their C3 meter. You don't get an enthusiast license but you don't really need it do calibrate this TV. The key benefits of a higher license with the UT50 is the PC Client and some different workflows. Calman 5 Basic will have basic and advanced workflows. With the UT50 all you need is 2 point white balance to calibrate the panel itself. I use my HTPC for disc playback because it can make corrections that aren't possible to make on the display and that's where the PC Client comes in handy. Also, if you ever plan on calibrating a colorimeter with an i1 Pro photospectrometer, then you need at least a Control license.

http://store.spectracal.com/consumer/meters/spectracal-c3-with-calman-5-home-tutorial.html

Thanks Anikun,

estcstm3: I'd get the UT version for the 2500 FFD, personally. But if you aren't sensitive to the sample-and-hold motion blurring then there's not much point I guess. the UT versions were only $100 more at BestBuy last I checked.

The UT50 also has the extra processing power of 3D which is available whether watching 2D or 3D.

Thanks for the replies.....I would definitely jump on the 60UT50 if it was just 898 (100 more than the 60U50). I have been on an old Phillips LCD from 2006, actually manufactured in Belgium so you know its old....hahah and I dont really notice motion blur with sports or games so Im sure the 600mhz subfield will be fine for my eye. I pulled the trigger on the 60U50 and will use the W/B setting here as a guide and read the greyscale tutorial......

With any of the settings mentioned in this thread has anybody seen excessive IR or Burn in?

Thanks!

I haven not had much IR, but I am fairly compulsive about the possibility and I don't watch TV so I never have tickers or station watermarks on the display, only Windows background set to change every minute and programs that are in the front.

I've only had one problem with IR, watching the presidential debates I had the word LIVE burned into my set, I ran the vertical scrubber which helped some, and it went away completely after a day or so. I have no problems with station logos, commercial breaks keep them from being a problem, I also do a lot of gaming, but keep my sessions to under an hour or so, had minimal IR that soon went away.

After checking the gaming mode settings again I realized I had it set to WARM2 instead of NORMAL, once I changed this setting, the blooming effect was gone, and it matched Custom mode. Still can't tell a difference in response time to be honest.

I will also add, because someone asked about the letterboxing blending into the bezel. I've watched 3 movies this week, none of which were 1.78:1 but two of the three I thought were and the third is 1.33 but slightly letterboxed on the top and bottom. With the lights off I can't tell.

Hey since the settings page is not up can you tell me what it was before I have the same problem and would like to try what you did. Thanks

Just use Anikun's settings on the previous page. (including his service menu settings). I personally dropped his contrast from 84 to 80 though, because at 84 I was getting some blooming.
Edited by damag0r - 11/21/12 at 12:01am

My default wb for warm was very very close to Anikun's visually,i used his for warm and put in my default warm for normal and i can switch between normal and warm2 and there is not alot of difference. My default has a very slight pink in the white and the image is a little brighter. Anikun was your default like that with the slight pink in whites as alot of users report green? Makes me wonder if i should use default,both look great and with not much difference between the 2. Just out of curiosity could you pm me with your default warm wb settings as i'd like to compare them to mine.

Warm WB Default on my TV

R-Cut: 80
G-Cut: 80
B-Cut: 80

R-Drive: F6
G-Drive: FF
B-Drive: 80

Alll Cut: 80
All Drive: FF

umm... this might be a stupid questions but i dont see or cant find PATHOFNEO custom settings?... Could someone please post them up. Thanks.

"You have to access the service menu to accomplish that, " So how do you access the service menu?

Same problem here, could someone be kind enough to post those settings again as they are not available in the first post?

Just download the Service Manual, it is decribed how to do it:
http://elektrotanya.com
Type in the search box: panasonic ut50
When you mess around the settings, first backup all the original setting on a SD card, instructions in the manual also!
Enjoy.

I recently purchased a 50ut50 and after some reading on the topic a couple pairs of the 4100gb also. For the life of me i cannot get either pair of these glasses to pair with the display and i am really irked since I've read of others having success with little hassle. So if you can share and/or link me to what magical procedure i have to follow or the root cause it will me much appreciated.

OGPI- Have you checked the battery? The little button on the top of the glasses should light up green (ON) when you press it once and red (OFF) when you press it twice. If you hold that button down it should blink green & red and should sync with your TV.

I used the battery that was supplied with them and both pair do the same thing. When i turn them on they just flash, alternating between red and green and then they turn off. they go right into that cycle as soon as i hit the button. I know it would be crazy to have dying batteries in both boxes but this is Samsung we're talking about.


**UPDATE** Got em working. BT Module wasnt on all the way due the screw hole being drilled in the wrong spot. Re-installed with screw off and they sync up. You were kinda right bout the battery cause they only have round 3/4 the bar left and i just bought the glasses last night.

Thanks for the help. Didn't make a profile before now cause this place is usually so informative i hardly come up with a question you guys haven't already asked.
Edited by OGPI - 11/24/12 at 1:44pm

Just use Anikun's settings on the previous page.

Why does the NZ version of the UT50 have to have different wording and settings in the menus to the US?

For example, our Brightness etc. scales center on '0' while yours seem to center on '50', CATS is called "Eco Mode", we have no "HD/H Size" and where is RGB Range?

ridiculous.